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  • Neww
    replied
    Very nice article. And amazing content. .. useful website..

    Visiting us .. hindiexplainn


    https://quotesstyle.com/
    Last edited by Neww; 07-28-2020, 08:03 AM.

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  • Heaven
    replied
    Got a brand new ebike , came with 85% charged on bike ,. Rode bike for 5dsys no problem , then it came to charging battery
    first it's was stuck on green light on charger
    Should be on red then when charged goes to green,. Try another compatible charger same outcome ,. Thinking something wrong with battery , while it is brand new.. what do you think

    Leave a comment:


  • ykick
    commented on 's reply
    I believe it's really more a matter of balancing new battery packs which shouldn't require deep discharging. BMS balancing usually works fine doing several shallow discharge/charge cycles and leaving it connected to the charger for several hours after the green LED lights and the fan quits.

  • JAFO
    replied
    I have a new 52v battery that would only charge to 57.7v. Finally, after 4 recharges (the battery would be in the 47v range) with 3 different chargers, and they all shut off at 57.7v I wired in a 150w/120v halogen light bulb and drained the battery to 42.7v. It's a 34ah battery so this took over 3 days. I recharged again (5 amp charger) for approx. 10 hrs. and achieved 58.4v. Not a complete 58.8v, but much better. I seem to remember reading that new batteries need an initial "breaking in" period. That is, drawing battery voltage down a few times before recharging. I just didn't realize how low.

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  • extravaganttraveler
    replied
    Yes both chargers have had the same behavior. I have some experience with barrel plugs growing up with casio keyboards, cordless phones, and various other electronic devices.. In my opinion, the connection at the barrel has always felt "loose" compared to all the other barrel connectors I've ever used. When I plug it in I expect to get the tight fit with the almost "snap" sound that I grew up with, but this connector just sort of slides on loosely and appears to not even go in all the way as I can still see a good 1/3rd of the metal barrel exposed when it is pushed in as far as it will go. The satisfying snap sound is barely evident and the cable sags at the connection as soon as I let go of it. It's as if the sleeve is just a tad too loose for the pin inside or something.

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  • ykick
    commented on 's reply
    Are you saying even the new charger is acting intermittent from the barrel connector charge input to battery?

    TBH I’m no fan of barrel plugs and the larger they get the more “room” they tend to have for slop and connection errors. Unfortunately, that’s what we have on the current Shark pack charge input so it’s my practice to treat that port very gently/carefully. No tugging or pulling on it, etc.

    If there’s any sign of intermittent connection try a different male barrel connector. And if that doesn’t help then it’s probably time for a little re-tensioning of the female barrel connector but that’s not a job for someone who doesn’t understand the “potential” present at that connector. Shorting those charge input pins too often causes other bad things to happen.

    A spare XT60 to Barrel dongle is actually a good thing to keep on hand. A decent soldier jockey could whip one up with a quick scavenge of old wall warts (device power supplies like old routers or CCTV systems often use that 5mm barrel) and a trip to RC Hobby shop or website to grab some XT60 connectors.

    Or, just order a dongle from Luna but make sure you get the right XT60 gender as there’s a been some weirdness about that over the last few months.

    Now the old charger may have a sloppy I or current adjustment pot which has moved enough to cause the hiccup behavior? You should check the knowledge base as I believe there's more info about the chargers and adjustments that can sometimes be made inside. But I can help if that's getting too heavy for you?
    Last edited by ykick; 05-13-2017, 08:17 AM.

  • extravaganttraveler
    replied
    I'd love to fix the old charger if possible. Where would we even begin with that?
    Also, not sure if this could have caused the problem but I noticed that the charger(s) needs to be plugged in just right to charge and that sometimes even a slight movement of either battery or charger will break the connection. There seems to be an issue at the point where the barrel plugs into the battery.

    Leave a comment:


  • ykick
    commented on 's reply
    Well that’s good news and fast order fulfillment too. I wouldn’t toss the old charger yet since it appears to be trying to work but going in/out of “hiccup” protection mode? That behavior would be expected if CC (constant current) mode max I (Amps) drifted out of adjustment?

    If you’re not up to qualifying that yourself I’m always willing to give it a look….

  • extravaganttraveler
    replied
    UPDATE.
    New charger just arrived. Seems to be charging the battery fine so far. While it's a bummer my first charger died so soon, I'm just grateful it wasn't my battery causing the issue.

    Leave a comment:


  • ykick
    commented on 's reply
    Yeah, something is almost certainly wonky with that charger. It may be as simple as the current (I) adjustment drifted out a bit and can possibly be trimmed back into spec using a pot inside? But, don't bother with that right now - get another charger that outputs 54.6V and get back to riding.

    Early sunshine today, you can bet I'm gonna run through some battery packs. PM anytime if I can help, no problem.

  • extravaganttraveler
    replied
    I just did the lightbulb test. It lit up for a half-second and then shut back off again. Same behavior as every other test so far. I'm going to order a new charger. Thanks for your open offer to help. Knowing my level of inexperience you'll probably be hearing from me soon ;)

    Leave a comment:


  • ykick
    commented on 's reply
    eBikes as a product haven’t matured yet that’s for certain, IMO.

    eBikes have certainly come a long long way (12 years for me) but until we have dealers and technicians in every county it’s gonna mostly be up to us, end users, to solve our issues/problems.

    1 year or much less out of a Charger is sometimes all you get. Try buying ‘em from a Chinese outfit like BMS Battery, Green Bike Kit, or eBay/Alibaba - have it arrive DOA and see how it’s “warrantied”. Luna will probably work with you, maybe discount a replacement? Never hurts to ask?

    But charger's so vital that many of us make sure we have more than one. In fact, I do that with almost everything related to eBikes. If mission critical, a spare is often best way to insure running errands or just having fun instead of head scratching?

    Offer stands, PM me if you would like reasonably qualified help figuring this out before you buy or do anything further? I don’t charge anything, just trying to help. Damn marine layer ever moves out I’d really be up for a ride to meet someone at a convenient time/place....

  • extravaganttraveler
    replied
    Originally posted by ykick View Post
    My technique for making “moment of truth” connections is to simply brush or lightly touch the intended connections together. Sometimes a spark is normal so hold it for a moment to make sure everything settles down but the point is to not shove tight connections together until you’re confident the circuit won’t overload. My worst nightmares have often been realized when I simply shove power connectors together and too much current starts flowing. Oops…

    But yeah, that behavior is pointing towards a charger problem. Do you think you could safely rig DVM 10A current meter (if Wavetek has one?) in series to see how much current, if any, the charger is attempting to push into the pack? RC power meters can be very handy for this sort of testing too but connectors and wire become a "thing" with this stuff.
    Beats me. This Wavetek looks like it can do anything. If it reads 54v at the plug isn't that what it's putting out? Lunacycle is suggesting I buy a new charger. I'm curious how long the warranty is on these chargers. Mine is less than a year old. Literally sitting in the same place since day one. Never mishandled or subjected to extreme conditions etc.. When things work it's amazing but I gotta admit I've had my share of problems with this whole ebike thing so far.

    Leave a comment:


  • ykick
    replied
    My technique for making “moment of truth” connections is to simply brush or lightly touch the intended connections together. Sometimes a spark is normal so hold it for a moment to make sure everything settles down but the point is to not shove tight connections together until you’re confident the circuit won’t overload. My worst nightmares have often been realized when I simply shove power connectors together and too much current starts flowing. Oops…

    But yeah, that behavior is pointing towards a charger problem. Do you think you could safely rig DVM 10A current meter (if Wavetek has one?) in series to see how much current, if any, the charger is attempting to push into the pack? RC power meters can be very handy for this sort of testing too but connectors and wire become a "thing" with this stuff.

    Leave a comment:


  • extravaganttraveler
    replied
    Woke up today and rigged the cable for the jumpstart.
    At the moment of truth, I pushed the wires into the discharge ports and the charger only came on for a half second (just like it does when I plug it in normally). According to the link provided above, the culprit is likely the charger but there is still a chance it could be the BMS??

    "If the jumpstart didnt worked, the charger never started or you can’t charge you pack on either ports, it probably means that the charger need to be replaced first, there is a slight risk that the BMS is acting up too. But changing the charger is the first step, contact your supplier if the charger is still covered under warranty.


    If the jumpstart worked and the charger was running till you removed it and still not charging normally it probably means that the BMS is still the issue. There is another reset procedure on some BMS’s but it involves the opening the battery and unplugging the balance connection (sense wires) and plugging it back. So at this point before opening the battery you should talk to your supplier."

    Leave a comment:

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