The display wire isn’t as tight as it seems, definitely not taught. So frustrating as this unit has less than an hour on it. I checked and rechecked every connection there is. Including trying it with just the battery and display only. It’s just dead. I tried to run the unit off of the charger as well with no luck.
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Whelp, the only thing you can do today is start over. I would disconnect everything, then slowly plug it all back up and see if a "new build" magically solves the problem.
PS. When replying, click those 3 dots at the bottom of this post and click Comment. That will put all replies to this topic in this same grey Replies box. -
Thanks for the reply tip! I have an email into Luna tech support for the issue. Anyone else ever get a defective unit and what was the course of action? -
Good progress on troubleshooting it at least. Since you have already bypassed the battery and problem persists you can rule out the battery. There's a bbsxx troubleshooting guide in kb showing how to bypass the display as well, by making a simple jumper from a bit of wire. Would be interesting to check while support gets back to you on email.
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Is the ASI BAC 800 controller used in the MAC Motor / ASI high performance kit compatible with the CycleAnalyst? I couldn't make out much information from the harness image and couldn't find a board schematic online. But perhaps a harness could be made following the instructions below.
I did find these instructions for making a controller compatible with a CycleAnalyst direct plugin
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=62809
Just couldn't find anything specific seeing as the BAC 800 is relatively newComment
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Hi, guys
I am looking to outfit a Motobecane Lurch (http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...ikes.htm#specs) with a BBSHD kit and am uncertain as to which bottom bracket size I need to select when purchasing the BBSHD kit. Another user used the 120mm kit, but it seems I should be using the 100mm kit.
Thank you in advance!Last edited by FlameOfAnor; 06-24-2018, 08:23 AM.Comment
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That's what confused me. It seemed weird. Here is the post in question: https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...fat-bike-bbshdComment
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Okay so yeah, in his post he says
"It slid right in! I had to add lots of spacers on either side (definitely order an extra spacer kit for this build) I used all of them, half on the left side and half on the right."
He doesn't seem to go into any detail as to why he choose to go with the 120mm kit so probably just best to use the 100mm size and not have a bunch of goofy looking spacers on both sides.
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RE: 40 AMP 48-72V EBIKE CONTROLLER. I am in need of replacing a controller originally purchased with a brushless hub motor kit. The original controller is DC36/48V Rated 17A, Maximum Current 35A. I had successfully ran a 52V battery for 10 original miles but it now shorts a 40A fuse between battery and controller. I suspect the controller burned out. While I am very technically savvy in may things, it would be a stretch to say I'm an advanced eBike builder yet and so I still struggle with the exact parameters needed to spec a new controller. Can you please advise if this controller will satisfy my need or advise otherwise.
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This controller is a direct plugin replacement for the Cyclone 3000w. It's not going to be Plug N Play for your setup and in all likelyhood it's probably just going to be more trouble than it's worth trying to get it work for you. Especially if you're not an advanced builder. Contact the original manufacturer of the hub motor and see if you can get information about a replacement controller and where to get one.
If that fails, It would probably be just easier at this point to go with another new kit though and just start over from scratch.
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Hi. I have ebikes with Bafang BFSWX02 rear hub motors being controlled by XT-LCD W108 LCD displays - I need to replace the LCD displays and was wondering if the C961 displays are compatable (they look the same externally). ThanksComment
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Displays. Dc-18 or 750c? What do that staff prefer and why does it beat the other for you?Comment
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They're pretty much the same in regards to basic functionality but the DPC-18 has the slight edge due to a slightly brighter screen and sleeker looking design. -
Oh yeah I forgot, good point. Overall I'd say DPC-18 is the better option if it's available at the time. But the 750c is still good if you just need the basics.
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I have a new 48V advanced charger that charges normally to 100%, but when I set it to charge to 90% it charges normally until it approaches 90%, then alternates from off/on/off/on every couple of seconds. Is this normal behavior? I've been unplugging it when it gets to this point.Comment
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I currently ride a 2015 Specialized Rockhopper Comp 29 with a 68mm BB.
I am looking to convert it with the BBSHD kit from Luna Cycles.
https://lunacycle.com/bafang-bbshd-1000w-middrive-kit/
From the page above, I see an option for Brake and Gear Sensors.
I know it's potentially unsafe, but in theory, would the kit work without Gear and Brake sensors?Comment
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Yep. I use gear sensors on both my bikes, but no brake sensors on the road bike cuz I haven't sorted a way to install them on road levers. The motor will run fine without either, but it's not a great idea to have no power cutoff other than holding down the power button or yanking on the harness. In my opinion.. -
Yes, you can leave them both unplugged if you want. That's what I do. Technically all you need is just the display at minimum to turn the motor on. Everything else is optional.
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Looking for help on what sort of connector I would need to be able to use a reention dorado battery for my bafang bbs02. The discharge port is a 2 pin male receptacle and 16mm I think. Any suggestions would be welcome on what part fits the bill.
Thanks.Comment
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Hi, have a 48-Shark 13.5ah battery. Will the Standard basic 48v dolphin/bottle battery charger you sell work? The $35 one? I'm assuming so but would like to validate before ordering.brian48-SHRK-13.5ah-GA 48 SHRK GA Comment
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Here's a picture of the connector that I'm looking for. I think it's basically the same connector as the one that's used in the tigershark case. I realize that I'll lhave to solder on some XT60 connectors on the motor side to connect to the motor but I'd like to just use reusable zip ties to hold the connector in place so that I can switch the battery back to my Juiced Crosscurrent S when I need to, i.e. I don't want to make any changes to the dorado case itself. I've also attached a photo of the discharge port on the battery itself (female side)
Thanks..Comment
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Sorry, I don't quite understand? If it already has XT60's on it and you know you have to solder XT60's on the motor side, then bam, you're pretty much done and it's all hooked up. You don't need any connectors. Maybe I'm missing something here?
There isn't going to be any connectors or adaptors for the discharge port you have circled if that's what you're asking. It's XT60's, XT90's or Andersons that are pretty much the standard.
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Basically I'm looking for a part that would replace the discharge receptacle that I circled in red. Tthat's the part that sits in the downtube of the bike (in my case a crosscurrent). With all of the bikes out there that use the intube Reention batteries I'm surprised that no one seems to sell the parts to adapt it for use on other bikes or for when things sometimes break and need replaced.Comment
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Ah, you're out of luck in that case. You either gotta source an empty pack to replace it with, or just take out that whole section and wire XT60's directly up to the discharge black/red cables coming off the BMS and then just use some kind of potting to keep it sealed? This is very DIY territory though.
If anyone else wants to chime in and give some advice, feel free.
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At any rate it looks like I'll have to do so more digging but thanks for taking the time to read and respond.
cheers.Comment
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