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I'm wondering what controller you would recommend for a 1500w Leaf hub motor? I'm thinking of buying your 28ah, 52v battery, and Kelly 100 amp controller, but am not sure how difficult it is to set-up, etc. Also wondering about the difference between your dashboards and a Cycle Analyst, etc. Thank you!
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I would not say it's exactly plug and play, but I would imagine if you are going with that particular setup you are not expecting it to be as easy as a bbs02. May need to match halls sensor wiring, do config stuff, etc. The main difference between something like the batt-man and cycle analyst is the batt-man is user-friendly. I wouldn't recommend to buy anything from Grin anyway, those guys are dicks.
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I am against flaming on forums, but you have to call a spade a spade: the guys at Grin are definitely dicks.Last edited by commuter ebikes; 08-25-2018, 07:48 PM.
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I wouldn't recommend to buy anything from Grin anyway, those guys are dicks.
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Excellent reputation or not, they have not been very kind to us over the years either. You just don't see it because it tends to be behind closed doors or in private conversation. I personally don't consider Grin to be pioneers of E-bikes either. Their innovations and designs are pretty lackluster and plain. (When is the Cycle Analyst finally going to get a re-design?) They just get a lot of praise and reputation because of the Endless-Sphere fiasco that happened a couple years back.
The Cycle Satiator is probably the only thing I can credit them for in good design.
So, you're not gonna hear much praise around here about someone who thinks of LunaCycle as a bunch of crazy nutjobs....jsLast edited by HIGHVOLTAGE; 08-25-2018, 07:46 PM.
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If you saw how they act behind closed doors their reputation would look a lot different. Collusion on price fixing with so-called competition, non-compete agreements with competition, encouraging trash talking against any company that doesn't play with their rules and deleting negative feedback about those they collude with.
Remarkable how a company can control the narrative after they purchase the largest forum related to it.
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I am among those who will never buy anything from Grin.Last edited by commuter ebikes; 08-25-2018, 07:49 PM.
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I am putting my BBSO2 back together after having to change out core. I can not find Mobile 28 grease in my area. Can I use a different grease from automotive store or do I need to order Mobile 28 and wait to put motor back together?
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So, you're not gonna hear much praise around here about someone who thinks of LunaCycle as crazy nutjobs.
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He's referring to old stuff from a year or two ago. They used to have shills talk trash about us on ES, meanwhile locking, deleting or hiding stuff about themselves or the others that were perfectly fine with keeping prices high for many years (which by the way is illegal, it's called antitrust). No idea if they are still at it, I have not visited ES in a long time, it's kinda toxic.
Here's some fun stories what they are like behind the scenes. Such as the time they privately tried to order Eric to raise his prices and play ball with the rest of them. Or when we, as the biggest dealer of their products for over a year, were told by their support team that we were not friends right before they cut off dealer pricing. Or the time one of the companies in their little cartel decided to call in false information to the DOT and got us raided.
I suppose if you are looking for proof you are welcome to PM me and I can send you a few screenshots. This is not really the place for some long drawn out discussion about them, and I would much rather be answering actual technical questions like this thread was intended for rather than dwelling on the past.
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Grin and ES have definitely treated many people unfairly. It is my honest opinion that Eric and Luna are just trying to get people out of their cars (as well as turn a profit), but ES/Grin is a failing cartel.
Recall that the definition of a cartel is "an association of manufacturers or suppliers with the purpose of maintaining prices at a high level and restricting competition."
Deleting posts, locking threads and banning members who don't go along the autocratic narrative might work in the short term, but I would bet against any endeavor that does not value and practice fair treatment.Last edited by commuter ebikes; 08-25-2018, 08:19 PM.
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Hi everyone, my BBSHD battery cradle looked a little cruddy. I cleaned it and since doing so the voltage will drop instantly (upon 1st pedal stroke) from 56 to low 40 high 30's. If you let the bike sit and do not pedal it stays at 55/56. More info, problem is the same when using my backup battery. Both are shark packs 52 @ 13 amp. I do have over 3k on kit this is my 1st issue.
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If it happens on both packs and started after doing something to the cradle I would suspect the cradle to be the cause.
The cradle pins, do they look right? If you open it up to check the soldering on the other side of the pins does that look good?
If you have two packs then you have a spare cradle. What happens if you use the spare cradle instead?
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Some questions about charging:- Do I need to unplug the Battery to Motor XT90 cable when charging through the XT60 charging port/cable?
- If not, do I need to turn the display off when charging?
- Is it ok to use a XT60 Y connector on the charging port/cable for a lighting system? Do I need to be concerned about sparking?
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Finally getting around to installing my 6V headlight to the BBS02B controller wires. There are two wires, black and black-with-stripe. Which one is +/positive and which one is -/negative?
Also my light has blue and red wires. Same question for these.
Thank you.MOVING BACK TO PEDAL...
2020 Banshee Paradox V3 1x11 (pedal)
2018 Soma Wolverine 3spd IGH Belt Drive (pedal)
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Put your multimeter in voltage mode and stick it into the wiring coming off of the controller if it shows positive then you have it the right way.
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I wish I could get my cheap Habor Tool free multimeter to work...
The BBS02B controllers with light wires should all be the same, so anyone at Luna should know. Any guess on he blue and red wires on the head light?
Is there an electrical standard for which wire is hot when the two wires are the same color, but one has a stripe on it?
How about when the two wires are red and blue?
You’d think there would be electrical standards that electricians would follow. Maybe not???
My guess would be that the striped wire is hot and the red wire is hot.Last edited by Rider; 08-26-2018, 05:05 PM.
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Talked to a friend knowledgeable in electronics (not an electrician) and he said the striped wire should be the positive hot wire and the red wire on the light itself should be the positive hot wire. He also said LED lights are directional and will only work if connected correctly; it will simple not work if connected wrong.
With that, I connected the black striped controller wire to the red light and the solid black controller wire to the blue light wire. Pressed the "+" button and held it until the display went to night mode and the light came on. It works!
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I don’t know how to get to the "for sale" forum. I want to post the following: I am physically unable to ride. Will sell new RipCurrent by Juiced Bikes with less than 100 miles. 19.2 ah battery. $2,000. Pay half shipping. Make offer.
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hi, I have KHS 4 season, been corresponding with Seb, lost him(/not sure), troubleshooting no power, display sporadically flicked on, anyway. I'm looking at the cxontroller, all wires except the one w/philliops screw (speed sensor, I believe) hoe to test it? Or what's the next step?
THANKS!
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Probably wanna stick with Seb in troubleshooting. If he's already begun troubleshooting with you, there's not much use in us asking you the same questions he's already asked you.
Anyways, if it's a Shark Pack, check the underside connectors of the pack as shown here and adjust them with a screwdriver:
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