(72v 50A battery, 18fet controller, mxus 3000w 4t motor, half-twist 3-speed throttle) Sometime when i twist the throttle from a slow speed or standstill there would be little to no change in power at first and then a surge of power after 2 seconds and when i am riding i would have the throttle twisted at a constant point but the power would die down for a second then come back and then repeat a couple times. all of those problems happened rarely at first then increased in frequency over the past week until the bike stopped work last night. rode it to my friends house only a mile away and it was fine but when i tried to ride it home a couple hours later the bike was unresponsive. I already checked the battery and all the basic connections and they all look good but i'm going to check out the inside of the controller and motor later to make sure I didn't blow anything out but I think the problem is either with the throttle or controller. any suggestions or advice would be great
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For Hall Sensor Throttle and some controller checkout information Go HERE.
For more in depth troubleshooting, please open a new thread with your problem under "Troubleshooting" As it would be much easier to find. :-) Adding as much detailed information on your parts and pieces as possible.
Regards,
T.C.
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I've been having an issue with my Bafang HD crank arm bolt coming loose and pulling out of my bottom bracket. I've tightened it several times only to have it come loose again. I've tried blue lock tight and that didn't seem to help. Normally I would simply replace the bottom bracket and move on with my life, but this might be more in depth. I haven't even had it for a year yet...Comment
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The threads on the crank arm are probably stripped, check to make sure. -
Sometimes the metal on the tapered portion of the cranks can deform. Once this happens the crank will never be solidly on there again, ever, and needs replacement. This can manifest itself as the crank bolt coming loose but it's often more related to the crank itself.
I would wager if you use an aftermarket crank you will not have further issue with the bolt.
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Hello everyone. I would like to add the Magic Pie to the front wheel of my wife's Gary Fisher Simple City 8. My question concerns the weight on this front wheel when she carries a full capacity in the front basket. Should I add the Magic Pie to the existing wheel? Or order the better wheel set up being sold?
I have searched for any topics with "magic pie" and "simple city 8" but haven't found any topics. I'm new here, so maybe I haven't searched correctly.
Can someone send me a link to the answer, if there is one? If not, can someone give me some advice on which way to go?
Thanks.
MikeComment
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A double walled rim seems what is recommended with heavy spokes... But I'm running a rear MP5 on a Huffy single wall rim using the OEM spokes custom hand forged by me and having no problems. My bigger concern would be your installation and using torque arms, especially if that's an aluminum fork. Here is a bit of a debate on the subject...
Aluminum Front Forks
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I am amazed that this thread is over 130 pages long at this point.
It's been great chatting with all of you, this thread is easily one of my favorite things about the forum.
Anyway just wanted to mention that. Hope you all have a great weekend, and for those in usa, happy labor day!
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You are so going to pay for that nice comment! Throttle and pedaling HDs. Nobody's fault, but we consumers are programming around the problem. I got a newer one, problematic, that won't throttle with PAS, but will at setting 0. My newest one won't work like this. I do have it working with PAS disabled, set to 0, but no PAS. I only care if the throttle fails or I want to have a beer in one hand and a joint in the other. Otherwise using the throttle to help pedaling is my preferred method. Attached are the programs, nomad has PAS, Uzzi doesn't.
You quite rightly closed my thread on this. Just want to see other peoples way around this and share mine. Maybe my solutions are the only ones. Come on fellow posters, be mature about this. We get great help, don't ruin it.
Can't upload .el files so here is a link
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Thanks, I am one short doing of his mod. These two files represent the best i could do short of using tools and incorporates the information I could sift out of posts so far (Also I hate to touch the controllers becuase I seem to be bad juju when it comes to controllers. I have smoked 3 not even riding them.)
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OK - BSS02 Shut off problem is persisting. Now I'm getting shut downs even at 53v on my 48v shark pack.
I've bent the cradle pins all the way to make sure there is a good connection.
I've upgraded to the color display to watch my voltage as I ride. It always reads at least 51v.
My latest shutdowns are happening even when I have a full charge. It shows 53.5v on the monitor while riding. After shutdown, I check the charge with a multimeter and I'm at 53v. The indicator lights on the battery pack are all green.
I can usually get the thing to stay on for a ride home after unplugging and plugging the battery pack to the motor several times and turning the system on again. Not sure if this constitutes a power cycle, but something about it gets me home.
I have three charges on my system and less than 100 miles.Comment
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I have a BBS02 with a Lekkie Bling Ring 42. On the back I have an Internal Gear Hub Alfine 8 with Di2 electronic shifters.
I just installed a single speed chain. The tension is quite tight, so it does not skip at all, but it’s just a little noisy. Is the Bling supposed to be compatible with a single speed chain? Is there a better option for a different chain ring that would be better for a single speed chain? I find that the 10-speed chain breaks a bit too often under load.Comment
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Hey guys,
I bought the Luna 48 volt Panasonic 17.5 battery pack as well as the Luna 48 volt 3 amp mini charger. I tried charging the pack for the first time but after 12 hours the LED never changed to green and the charger never shut down. Any ideas what's going on? Is this charger not compatible with this pack?
The battery shows 54 volts so it looks like it fully charged. I checked the adapter cable (barrel style on the pack) and it was fine. I read where the packs should be charged to 100% the first 6 charges so I had the charger set to 100%.
ThanksLast edited by Dan Kleinsmith; 09-02-2018, 02:13 PM.Comment
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Wondering if y'all plan on offering rear rack batteries again, or failing that, maybe recommend someone reputable who does?Comment
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Soon. Give it a couple weeks. We are always re-stocking this motor as soon as it's out of stock
Next time though keep re-stock questions in this thread, please:
Last edited by HIGHVOLTAGE; 09-05-2018, 12:30 PM.
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Motor grinding noise, loss of power, wiggle in the rotor/motor shaft
I bought this Luna BBS02 last October and have put about 1600 miles on it.
During my usual commute I suddenly had a lot of vibration and noise and lack of power, the motor would still respond normal to throttle and PAS. When peddling with the motor off there was a lot of drag and it was much harder than usual. I took apart the motor and found one corner of the magnets chipped and there was some small metal debris in the motor. The bearing is firmly attached to the motor shaft. There is also a small divot in the housing for the bearing, not sure if that is supposed to be there as this is my first tear down. When I got down to the motor core, there was some side to side wiggle and the magnets were sticking to one side or the other and I could not spin the motor freely without some friction. I have taken the motor shaft out and in a few times and am not sure if it is seated well.
Nylon gear in good shape.
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Is the motor core supposed to spin smoothly when one has it open, or is it normal for the magnets to stick to one side or the other and for they to be "play" from side to side? Does this go away when the shaft is engaged on the other bearing past the nylon gear?
Thoughts on the damaged magnet?
When inspecting the nylon gear, I noticed that there is some slippage between it and the pinion gear, is this normal? The type of bearing inside the nylon gear makes me think that it is.
General direction to go from here.
Thank You,
OrrieAttached FilesComment
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HIGHVOLTAGE, thank you for the response, I am familiar with that vibration at top speeds, around the 28-32 mph range for my bike, but this is different and happening at low speeds.
paxtana - I think when I am saying loss of power I mean more slipping. I will see what the nylon gear looks like again this week compared to the new one I have coming and see if that is the issue. I also noticed when I had the motor apart yesterday that if I spun the axle, turning the large gear and the pinon gear and held the nylon gear with my finger, it would slip and the pinion would keep spinning with very little effort. Is that how it should be? -
So I rode home from work yesterday and at first it was the same problem of vibrating and slipping, but then I felt something catch in the motor and it was back to normal, this happened again briefly during the ride and it seems always to be related to starting off slow when the motor has to work hard for those first few cranks to get up to speed. I made sure the rest of the way to take a few extra peddle strokes to get moving a bit before allowing the motor to start and keeping the gear low at first to keep the rpm high, and this seemed to keep the slipping and vibrating from happening. Ill be taking it apart again in the next week or so and will inspect the gears and send video of anything suspicious. Thanks again
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