Ask an ebike technical question get an answer within 30 minutes or so.

[Cannikin]

Howdy, is the 30t Mighty-mini out of stock in all colors? It doesn't show the color picker and when I try to add one to my cart it just says "This field is required" where the colors would normally show. Thanks!

[HIGHVOLTAGE]

Yes, it is out of stock but we'll be re-stocking them in a few weeks or so.

[paxtana]

The 36t is in stock and pretty much the same thing. Just added a link on the mini listing for reference

[BCBeaver]

I have a bbs02 I bought this spring that has about 800km on it. My drivetrain started squeeling a couple weeks ago so I oiled my chain figuring that would be the end of that. Nope, it's coming from the bbs02. Is there an easy way to oil what I assume is an internal chain?

[Sebz]

You might just need a little cleaning and greasing.

https://electricbike.com/forum/forum/knowledge-base/motors-and-kits/bbshd/36670-bbshd-teardown-maintenance-and-greasing

[Tom.ferris]

I have a Luna battery that’s been disconnected and not charged in 10 months. I know this is not good for the battery. Are there any steps I can take to salvage its usefulness? Other than just trying to charge it normally?

[HIGHVOLTAGE]

What charge level was it stored at for those 10 months? It might be okay. I'd check it's voltage reading with a multi-meter.

[Augy Daugy]

What size tire do the banana fenders fit? Do they fit fat tires?

[HIGHVOLTAGE]

I don't even think these are in stock anymore. I'd imagine they're specifically designed for the Banana.

[chickenchicken]

Hello,

I'm trying to build a 20" bike up with the Luna Cycle Mac motor kit but I want to do it with only PAS, no throttle.

contraints:
- Luna Mac motor

the weight, size, and power make this preferred. going up 13% grade regularly.

- PAS only, torque sensor preferred

hopefully with a torque sensor like this one (https://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-...sempu-122.html). the idea being that it would communicate the amount of power to activate.

- smallest (or thin) battery possible

hoping that this one will work to power the Mac motor (52v Mighty Mini Cube Samsung Ebike Battery Pack 30q 6ah (3 pounds!)). it seems like it could generate 1560watts??

Questions:
1. the ASI BAC 800 controller compatible to PAS sensors, torque sensors? if not, what is?
2. is it difficult to map the torque sensor directly to the throttle amount?
3. would the mighty mini cube be enough to power the Mac motor?

Thanks everyone!

[HIGHVOLTAGE]

This build is far too DIY and kind of messy. You can't really just mix & match parts like that from other vendors. The Mac Motor doesn't have pedal assist or torque sensing options. If you want Pedal Assist, you should probably start with a BBSHD or BBS02 Mid-Drive kit instead. They are cadence based PAS though. The only motor that is torque based right now is the Bafang Ultra motor but I do not recommend this if you don't have a specific frame designed for it.

The Mighty Mini Cube is fine as long as you're only pulling a maximum of 30 amps.

[Needforspeed]

I have a Kelly controller, KEB 72801: http://kellycontroller.com/keb72801x...gen-p-281.html

is it compatible with the cyclone 3000? Thanks.

[AlanKilian]

I'm hooking a Cyclone 7500 W to a Kelly KEB72601X.
I have the motor turning, but my Hall-sensors got all chewed-up by the back of the motor, so I'm waiting for new sensors before I get the thing completely running and tested.

I'll post again once I've got the motor repaired.

[Needforspeed]

Good to hear, thanks. I ordered the Cyclone 3000 regardless and would use the stock controller in the mean time if it wasn't compatible. I previously had a Crystalyte TC100, but the axle snapped. I decided to go with a mid-drive next since it freaked me out when the hub motor axel snapped. My battery can put out 150A continuos, so I'm hoping to figure out a controller compatible with this kit.

Looks like we're locals, I'm in Brookline, would be cool to meetup to see your setup sometime, this is my first mid-drive, haven't a clue, but doing lots of research.

[AlanKilian]

I thought I blew up the controller, but I was $319 wrong.

The $100 controller the motor came with says it can't handle regeneration, and the motor comes with a freewheel gear to prevent backdriving the motor and turning it into a generator.
The freewheel started to fail after two months, probably because I had the chain too tight, so sometimes, the motor would get turned by the wheel for a little while before the freewheel would, well, freewheel. And it squealed like someone was stepping on a puppy.
After a few days, the motor started stumbling, then cutting out and I had to go to zero-throttle to reset and get more motor drive.
It happened more as the controller heated up, so I figured I toasted it.

So I ordered a Kellly Control KEB controller that can handle regeneration even though I don't plan on doing regeneration.
After figuring out how to hook up the new controller, I got the motor spinning, and hooked it back up t the bike,
Aaaaaaaaannnnnnndddddd it did the same thing. :-(

But this is a much smarter controller so it could wink at me and say "Hall-effect sensor error".

I took the back cover off the motor, and the motor had chewed through the plastic mount as was grindnig away at the hall sensors.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/pzXmYFe6sE2Mdd5G8

So I ordered new sensors, soldered them in and the motor runs fine now.

This afternoon, I took it for a test ride, and oh-my-god, it's dangerous!
Three times, I popped wheelies even though I was trying to be careful. It;s just so smooth on the power that I kept getting the front wheel off the ground without realizing it.

So, I can plug the controller into a PC and fiddle with all the settings to see if I can get it more easy to control.
It could be used like it is if I were a better driver, but I think I'l dial it back a bit before I hurt myself.

Be careful out there.

-Alan

[jjakeobson]

Hey Guys,

Going to be building an ebike this week based on a Mongoose Beast single speed fat tire bike.

Will be using a 1200W 48V rear hub motor conversion kit (specifically for fat tires). The kit comes with everything except battery, my question is what kind of battery would I need to use atleast 1000W of the motor on continuous pull, would like to be able to go 30mph continously.

My commute is 1 mile each way, so I really only need 5-10 mile range but anything higher would be fine.

Looking for a cost-effective battery that would fit my needs.

Thanks for the help!

[HIGHVOLTAGE]

Usually any battery in the 48v 10ah+ range will be able to handle 1000W easily and do 10 miles easily. It depends on what kind of size requirements you need though and where you're going to fit it. This part is pretty DIY and depends on your preferences.

[thebootfitter]

For a point of comparison, when I commute about 6 miles each way with some hills (including a 500 ft climb over a mile) and pedal and throttle hard on the straight flat sections where it is safe to do so, hitting 30+ mph, I usually average about 35 Watt hours per mile. You can do the math from that as a baseline or maybe use 40 Watt hours per mile for a very conservative estimate to determine your Watt hour requirements for your battery.

Watt hours can be calculated/estimated by taking the nominal voltage of the battery pack -- typically 48V or 52V -- times the Amp hours in the pack -- which are usually printed on the pack. So with the 48V 10Ah pack that HighVoltage suggested, you would estimate roughly 480 Watt hours. Divide that by 40 Watt hours to get a conservative range estimate of 12 miles. Note that the "standard" estimate for Watt hours per mile is roughly 20, assuming no pedaling and cruising along on flats w/o wind, and I know people who keep the PAS on one of the lower settings and use <10 Watt hours per mile by adding a lot of pedal power into the system. Meaning they could comfortably get around 50 miles with the same battery pack that I wouldn't trust for much over 12-15 miles at the full power that I like to use.

I generally like to purchase battery packs with at least 20-25% more than my expected daily range requirements measured in Watt hours to accommodate errands over lunch, meeting someone after work, times when I might want a little extra range, and perhaps most importantly -- sufficient range even after the battery capacity starts to lessen over time. Additionally, by getting more capacity than you need and only charging up to 80-90% on a regular basis with a full charge to rebalance the cells every once in awhile, you can extend the useful life of the battery as well.

[ChrisJTX]

Hey guys/gals. I am looking to replace the BBS02 left crank arm for an offset arm to clear the frame. Do I need 170mm or 175mm? Also, are there any suggestions on products? I have had a hard time finding a crank arm...

The shimanos are not offset. they are just like the stock bafang ones, but better quality. I too was in the same dilemma, I went ahead and got the liekie offset cranks from luna, pricey but imo worth it. they are 160mm in length, I believe. I think the size really doesnt matter unless you pedal a lot. hopefully someone with more knowledge will chime in. also if you search, bafang makes a left offset crank you can buy, just like the stock ones in the kit but the left one is a offset.

[thanksgivingtorque]

Is it ok to leave the battery plugged into the motor when you are not using the ebike?

[paxtana]

Yeah that's fine.

[Kinni]

is there a way to reset the C961 total mileage?

[HIGHVOLTAGE]

With the power on, Press and hold both power and - to clear trip distance.

[Kinni]

I meant TOTAL mileage (ODO), trip mileage is easy enough. I got a new display and would like to roll back the ODO. And now that I think of it, any way to set the ODO on a DPC 18? Id like to keep the mileage I have already built up with the c961.

[Jim Bowes]

Is it possible to add some kind of an electrical assist (mid motor) to an old vintage Dutch cargo bike? I use this cargo bike as a production unit for my business. I am not looking for speed. I am looking for torque. The bike is heavy to begin with and I am carrying loads of up to 400 lbs. These old legs could use some help. This issue seems to be standard sizes of the parts. This cargo bike is from the 1950 which seems to be the older standard (dropouts 120 mm).
As someone with 11 thumbs, I would really like to know I am not on a mission to nowhere before moving forward.
I have uploaded some photos with measurements. https://photos.app.goo.gl/EwGG7FvQE6WG9CnAA
Does anyone have any experience with electrifying an old vintage cargo bike? Can it be done?

[paxtana]

Sure that is doable. That is assuming that you can get a adapter fitted to it that converts the bottom bracket shell to standard BSA, and if you are going to keep the single speed setup you want to gear it differently, make that rear sprocket much larger. Here is a link to check

https://electricbike.com/forum/forum/knowledge-base/motors-and-kits/bbshd/10736-how-to-order-the-right-bbsxx-kit

[Andredurand]

I just received my Sur Ron and set it up. It is speed limited at 6 mph but I don’t have a cut Green wire to re-attach. I see a green wire coming off the harness but it immediately goes into a black wire sleeve. Help.

[HIGHVOLTAGE]

Pictures of the wire? Show us.

[Andredurand]

It was cut. Couldn’t see it until I took pic.

[bikeguy3321]

I have a technical issue.

I have a lunacycle bbs02 kit installed on my bike, with 48v Shark Panasonic GA 13.5ah battery pack and 48V Advanced Luna 300W Ebike Charger. set at 80% and 3 amps.

I took a ride yesterday, no issues, and came home at 1-2 bars battery left. I first plugged the charger into the wall, then plugged the barrel plug into the battery. For a second, it tried to charge at 54v, and the fan kicked into high speed, but after a second the fan slowed down to idle speed and the charger displayed 45v.

I left it plugged in overnight with the fan at idle speed hoping it would charge. This morning there was still no charging progress. I checked my cables for continuity by plugging the barrel plug into the bike and confirming that there was ~45 volts across the xt-60 connector. I also made a new cable up and tried charging again and got the same issue. I also discovered that while plugged in the charger fan will intermittently turn up to high speed for a second before dropping down again (didn't get a chance to observe how voltage behaved though).

What is the underlying issue and how do I fix it?

EDIT: I've linked a video of me load testing the charger with a 100w light bulb below. It does the same intermittent behavior of boosting up, but then going back down to low voltage of ~10 volts. I am also measuring only 21v at the barrel plug charging port of the battery itself, i think because of barrel plug corrosion/ sparks. I still get 45 volts measured at the discharge port of the battery.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1P6...aD_RpC2k70rL1A

[paxtana]

there should not be sparks when plugging it in. If there are you need to turn on the charger before plugging it into the battery.

Probably need a new charger port, or replace the port with xt60

[Miles]

If I got a FS bike from Luna with a 1000watt Bafang motor could it go 35mph on flat road without any head wind and without pedaling?

[HIGHVOLTAGE]

30mph is pretty much the max speed, you might be able to push 35mph downhill but you won't get to it on flat ground without a large chainring, but that puts quite a bit of strain on the motor so it's not advised.

[thebootfitter]

Every bike is different and every rider is different. There are a lot of variables that can affect top speed, including wheel size, tire width and tread, road/trail surface, rider position, bike and rider weight, etc. All of the variables and nuances have been discussed elsewhere on this forum, if I recall correctly. I think the best thing is to understand the variables and control what you can control and then measure against what you can do on your setup from one time to the next, rather than trying to reach a certain speed threshold that others are claiming.

For what it's worth as a point of comparison, with my 2.25" Schwalbe Marathon Plus 26" tires, stock 46T chain ring up front with a 15T(?) sprocket in back attached to a Rohloff hub in 11th gear (the straight through gear), running a near fully charged 52V battery pack and with the controller programmed for the full stock 30 Amps, I can reach 30-35 mph pretty easily on a flat with no wind and throttle only. If I shift up a gear or two or three and add some hefty pedal power, I can reach 38-40 mph under the same conditions. On downhill sections, I have topped out around 48 mph, but even on my road bike without a motor on such a downhill, I can usually reach close to 40 mph.

[roadrich]

Three questions about my Sur-Ron:

1) Will Luna be carrying spare parts for Sur-Rons such as the speedo display? I broke mine in a crash.
2) Can I replace the brake rotors with any 203mm mountain bike rotors? If so, which do you recommend? Mine got warped.
3) Can I replace the brake pads? Where can I find pads that will work with the Sur-Ron?

Other than that, it's been a fun bike so far!