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    Simple for most, perplexing for me, so........

    I have a 52v 17.5ah shark battery with a xlr connection. I am setting up a solar charging system. I need a cable going from boost controller to battery. I have 2 options; (1) make a new cable with xlr male plug or (2) cut the ac charger cable and connect a xt60 connector on the end so when I want to charge with solar I simply remove the xt60/xlr cable section from ac charger and connect to boost controller and battery.
    In either case, I don't know how the xlr cable is connected. Has the ac charger with xlr connection got 2 wires (+/-) or 3 wires? How do I connect it all up?

    Comment


    • HIGHVOLTAGE
      HIGHVOLTAGE commented
      Editing a comment
      You only need to use 2x of the 3x pins on an XLR connector. One should be + and the other should be -
      Last edited by HIGHVOLTAGE; 10-12-2018, 05:15 PM.

    Hi
    after a recent ride I charged my battery and turned on the display to check the voltage everything turned on normally then after about 3-4 sec I got error 30.
    the last time this happened it was the speed sensor that was the problem but luckily unplugging and reconnecting it solved the issue this was about 2 months ago.
    So this time i thought it was the same problem so i unplugged and reconnected it but this time it didnt help. After that I checked the cable of the speed sensor and found the problem, my back tyre was rubbing against the cable and cut it down to the bare copper.
    there are 3 cables red white and black the red and white cables are fine but the black cable is cut exposing the copper.
    My questions are will I be able to cut the damaged area and resolder the wires and if that's not possible I'm I able to ride the bike without a speed sensor cause at the moment the motor is not working.
    I'm sure the problem is this wire as I have 2 bbshd and have eliminated everything else.
    I really don't want to have to buy a whole new controller if I can avoid it. If anyone can help with some advise I would be so grateful I have taken 2 pictures.

    Comment


    • HIGHVOLTAGE
      HIGHVOLTAGE commented
      Editing a comment
      It might've shorted the controller out. You can try but if it doesn't work, you'll need a new controller.

    If the controller was shorted would the display still power up cause mine still turns on with error 30.
    also without a speed sensor will the motor not work cause I don't really need a speed sensor.

    Comment


    • HIGHVOLTAGE
      HIGHVOLTAGE commented
      Editing a comment
      Only one way to find out :P

    Hi sticky, want to put powerful long range mid-drive onto (rad mini) using my rear geared hub drive motor as emergency back-up. Meaning when problems occur during set of new monster midrange, will be able to use original hub drive to get me home. Seeking advice on this subject. Going to be pricey modification- want hub drive left alone; adding separate mid-drive with separate battery/separate throttle-thumb-drive/separate everything. Essentially making two motors ebike. New midrange as primary with 100 mile range with power from midrange capablow to climb Seattle area hills.also want midrange motor capable of 40+mph using throttle only for extended distances. Am I dreaming? How to talk to someone with such knowledge?

    Comment


    • HIGHVOLTAGE
      HIGHVOLTAGE commented
      Editing a comment
      I mean, you can do this, it's just not very practical due to the weight additions. Plus you'll need a separate battery to run each motor which just further doubles the weight and will reduce your range. Nothing is really stopping you from doing this other than the impracticalitys of it. That's why you don't see very many dual motor builds. Plus 100mile range? Yeah you might be dreamin' here unfortunately. I don't think you could have enough room on your bike to go 100miles under that kind of weight.

      I think what you're looking for here is an Electric Motorcycle essentially, or a Sur-Ron which would be even better.
      Last edited by HIGHVOLTAGE; 10-13-2018, 09:53 PM.

    Hi new rider at this website/is there a (Chatroom) here where I can chat with other ebike modifiers, enabling me to learn modification techniques. What was tried, what is being tried, what results etc-etal

    Comment


    • HIGHVOLTAGE
      HIGHVOLTAGE commented
      Editing a comment
      There's a Facebook group called "Fast Electric Bike". Join it and you'll find what you're looking for. In all honestly though, the best techniques are the simplest one. You might be overthinking this a bit. A basic kit w/ a mid-drive kit & a battery will be much more reliable and less problematic in the long run than some frankenstein bike built from scratch.

      For reference though, this link can be quite helpful if you're looking to absorb some knowledge:

      surron, talaria, sting R mx4, bafang, bbshd,

    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      We have a Discord server here if you want to chat:

      Check out the ebikes community on Discord - hang out with 7 other members and enjoy free voice and text chat.

    • HIGHVOLTAGE
      HIGHVOLTAGE commented
      Editing a comment
      Woah, didn't know of this. Thanks.

    Asked on discord
    Last edited by RuufioZ; 10-15-2018, 07:03 AM.

    Comment


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ID:	76226 I have a 48v 750w rear hub motor ebike and the controller has Rated Voltage 48v, Max Current 25A, Rated Current 12A, Low Voltage Protection 42V. The controller is from Nanjing Lishui Electronics Research Institute and I believe I damaged it by shorting something while I had it opened up. I had the battery removed from the ebike and when I was moving a wire inside the controller with metal tweezers it sparked when I touched something I should not have and now it will turn on but it won't run. It's hard to tell if anything is visually fried because it is coated in a rubbery dried goop all inside, I imagine to keep water out. I think the easiest fix would be to install a new controller, but I do not know which one to get. If I am going to replace it, I should put in something with a higher rating, so can anyone suggest a controller? The controller is 7" x 2" x 1.5" when sealed inside it's metal cover and it is not very pretty inside, with electrical tape losely wrap around soldered connections, I will attach some pictures. Any help would be great. Click image for larger version

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      Comment


      • HIGHVOLTAGE
        HIGHVOLTAGE commented
        Editing a comment
        Is this a Luna product? If not, unfortunately we can't really assist with these kind of problems as they usually involve contacting the original manufacture for suggestions on how to replace it. I can't just give you the link to any generic controller as it's very unlikely it's going to be Plug N Play compatible.

      Thanks for replying. No it is not a Luna product, but I was hoping that you would be able to recommend a new controller that I could buy to swap out for the non working controller. I thought that Luna had controllers that would work for something like this, even if it is not an original Luna part. I will try to find a forum or something and see what I can find out. I don't want to just buy one off of ebay that I am not sure about. Thank you for taking the time to reply either way.

      Comment


      • HIGHVOLTAGE
        HIGHVOLTAGE commented
        Editing a comment
        Yeah, unfortunately we don't carry anything that's going to be directly Plug N Play or even be potentially compatible. :( Getting a hold of the original seller or manufacture if possible is usually the best option. The best suggestion I can give in the future is to always purchase a motor/kit that is widely sold from multiple vendors. So if you can't get a hold of the original vendor, then you can end up buying replacement parts from another vendor that sells the same product. The BBS02 and BBSHD Mid-Drive kits are great examples of this. Plenty of easy to find replacement parts, not just from LunaCycle but many other vendors.
        Last edited by HIGHVOLTAGE; 10-15-2018, 01:31 PM.

      While not impossible for experienced ebikers to use something like our Cyclone controller as a replacement controller for random ebike motors, we cannot promise that accessories will work right, at least without figuring out the original wiring diagram. As far as matching halls so the motor at least turns, you can use this chart. This is not easy. Good luck.

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      Comment


        My bike has a candance sensor not a torque, if that makes a difference, but thank you for this, it is helpful.

        Comment


        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          The controller is not for one with a torque sensor

        Sur Ron x controller started shutting of ignition after 200 miles when on downhill in sport first 2 miles of ride. Your next issue was the battery it will get hot and then you couldn’t charge it to cool down and then now the charger won’t go to low-voltage cut off at all anymore and it takes 6 to 12 hours approximately to charge the battery and it only has 10 to 12 miles range can’t get anyTech help on this issue or support

        Comment


        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          Did you email us? If not I would advise to do so. If so then please wait a little as it needs forwarded to our lead technician, and since it's monday we have a backlog of weekend emails to get through. Please be patient as we want this answered by our most skilled guy.

        In January I purchased the Luna Cycle BBSHD (street legal) with the 48v Shark battery. I also got the upgraded display and charger. Still loving it, no problems.
        I'm planning to get a second battery to extend my range and I am considering the 52v Shark. I'm not going to hook the two batteries together. I'm just going to run one at a time, hopefully using the same cradle. I know I'll need a 52v charger.

        Would there be a problem with alternating the two batteries? Is there a difference in the two Shark pack cradles?

        Comment


        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          That's good. When you get the new pack you may want to confirm it has the same polarity as the original. On the case there's a + and - and if you put a multimeter on these points you should see voltage corresponding to that, as opposed to negative voltage if it does not correspond to that. Before putting the second pack on the original cradle just check with multimeter that you are seeing the same thing as the original pack. This is just to be certain they are both wired the same, as I have seen that once or twice so it's just a check to ensure you don't short it out

        • Rawhide18D
          Rawhide18D commented
          Editing a comment
          Well, I just got my 52v Shark battery. They both have 5 pins, but they are not the same. I won't be able to switch them out.
          This is very frustrating. Especially since I checked with you before I ordered and had to wait 3 weeks before you had them in stock.
          What are my options now?

        • HIGHVOLTAGE
          HIGHVOLTAGE commented
          Editing a comment
          You sure they both have 5 pins? If so, pictures of them both would help.

        I have a BBS02 that was purchased before Eric started selling them (I have two of yours too). This unit has the "old" mosfets and nine levels of PAS instead of the five in the systems that I've purchased from you. Your description of the "bare bones" BBS02 suggests the unit would be "plug and play" as a replacement for mine. True?

        Comment


        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          PAS level has more to do with the display than the motor. But yes a barebones 02 kit should fit any other 02 kit, even an hd kit and most likely even an 01 kit. Might need a different chainring if changing it from hd. And if the 02 is like, a european version made for 36v or something like that, and using 36v then you might need to upgrade the battery to 48 or 52. But generally speaking should be fine.

        • fos'l
          fos'l commented
          Editing a comment
          Paxtana, thank you for your reply. I'm using the "old" BBS with your 52V battery, so the spare (if needed) should plug right in.

        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          Anytime man :)

        hello
        I have the bbs02. will anything happen if I don't grease the motor. I read that after 500 miles it is recommended to grease the motor. what will happen if this is not done? is this required or just suggested to extend the life of the motor? when will you be getting gaskets more the motor in stock?

        Comment


        Gday Luna, I received your Black Box Progammer for my BBSHD (Works Great)I'm wondering what the "Voltage limit" is for the Actual Programmer ? I'm running a 15S setup on my BBSHD, I have only connected it at the end of my ride when total voltage was around 56V - 57V (just to be safe). But I would like to know if operating it at 61.5V DC would still be within its Voltage Parameters?
        Last edited by Patrick1977; 10-17-2018, 04:32 AM.

        Comment


        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          You are running 15S on a stock controller? Never heard of that before.
          The power going to the display should be controlled by the controller, it's not sending full voltage to the display connector, it reduces it to like 5v. No idea if what you are doing will break the display but it definitely might break the controller..
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