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    I ran into some shut down issues with my 13.5 AmpH, 52V "Shark" battery last night. It stayed on as I attempted to pedal to work and then abruptly shut off and wouldn't come back on. I tried getting the LEDs near the bottom to turn on to get a power reading there, and nothing.
    I then tried hooking up the actual, power meter to it and it didn't register anything either.
    I suspect some cells might've gone bad and the BMS might've been cooked as well. Is it possible to send the battery back for a repair? Let me know.
    Attached Files

    Comment


    • bentstrider83
      bentstrider83 commented
      Editing a comment
      All in all, I'm now thinking of just muscling up and going non-electric again. My 24.5 AmpH is still working just fine. But now I'm too paranoid to rely on that one for fear of the cells bonking out on that one too. Two years on the electric thing was good. But now I think I'm finally seeing the hard-side to all of this.

    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      Fair enough. If you change your mind you may want to check out the Wolf, which was not an option when you bought the shark two years ago. Since it is potted it can not get water damaged as what most likely happened to the shark. Only way for a cell to get corroded from leaking would be if it was physically damaged some way, whether through physical impact, overcharging the cell, or whatever else might cause the cell to partially vent.

    • bentstrider83
      bentstrider83 commented
      Editing a comment
      I was looking at the Wolf. Might have to wait for awhile instead of taking my credit card into the red. I'll take your word for it seeing as the Shark I have now has fallen off the bike a couple of times and has been exposed to the abnormal amount of rain that NM has been seeing. The dryness of SoCal would be so welcome at this point. This Seattle weather that NM has been getting for the past, few years could go kick rocks.

    On a new BBS02 kit from ya'll...............Cannot enter the display programing. I have tried 200 times and just cannot get into setup. I have a program cable, and have set everything where I want it, but cannot
    set the top speed any higher than 24 MPH with the cable. Selecting BY DISPLAYS COMMAND allows this,,,,,,,,,,,but since I cannot enter the setup screen, I am stuck at 40 KPH , the top speed with the program cable. I KNOW to enter setup it is 1 second hold of up/down buttons. Like I said above, I have tried for an hour to enter it, will not allow me to. I can get the lights on, or to the stupid walking mode, so I know the buttons work. About to pull my hair out....................Can you help????

    Thanks in advance........BTW...My kit came with a bad main harness................emailed you, got my replacement in 4 days, which works BTW! WHY I will continue to buy exclusively from Luna.

    Sure hope you can help me with this issue....................:)

    Comment


    The front gear rubs the rear chainstay I believe some spacers I will order will solve this. However once set it is clear that only the greyhound rear gear will align and the granny gear will be badly cross connected; this is on a 2015 stumper Specialized 29 inch. Suggestions?
    Attached Files

    Comment


    Hi Luna Cycle,

    I'm planning to get the BBSHD kit and here's the list:


    Choose Your Programming Level: 750w Street Legal
    Bottom Bracket Size: 68mm-73mm (Standard)
    Chain Ring: Stock 46T Steel Chain Ring
    Display Options: Luna 500c Mini Full Color Dipslay $40.00
    Throttle Choices: Bafang BBSxx Universal Thumb Throttle
    Make it a kit by adding a top grade battery: 52v Luna Wolf Samsung 30q 12ah $599.95
    Add a Smart Charger for your Battery (not included): 52V Advanced Luna 300W Ebike Charger $79.95
    Add a Gear Sensor: GearSensor for Derailers and Internal Geared Hubs $45.00
    Add a Luna Designed Chainring: Luna Aluminum Chain Ring Adapter With 42T Sprocket $40.00
    Add Custom Machined Install Tool: Luna Wrench $19.00

    - I wanted the 42T Luna Eclipse Chainring, so I selected the "Luna Designed Chainring", is that the same thing as Luna Eclipse chainring that everyone talks about?
    - I added the Smart Charger, I'm located in USA and just want to confirm that it's not the 220v version right?

    Thanks,

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      Yes it is the 110v version, you're fine.
      No that is not the eclipse it is a lower cost chainring with less offset. It does have narrow/wide tooth profile but not the same. If you want the eclipse it is the option below that, where it says
      Add A Custom Luna Eclipse Face (Face Only) ,
      then the option below that for the sprocket portion
      Add a Luna Eclipse Sprocket (Sprocket Only)

      Currently only 48t sprocket is in stock though.

    • icestix
      icestix commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks for the reply!

      If the 42t isn't in stock, I would like to go with the Luna Mighty Mini 30T Chain Ring. What should I select for my options? Those 2?

      - Add a Luna Mighty Mini 30T Chain Ring
      - Add A Custom Luna Eclipse Face (Face Only)

    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      You would only need the mini. The eclipse face won't do you any good without the eclipse sorocket

    THANKS GENTLEMEN!!!!

    Got an 02 kit with bad harness...........broken throttle wire in it somewhere.................emailed here, directed to support, given case #. 5 days later I have a new harness, and THROTTLE......:) !!!

    Just wanted to say THANKS for the REAL support and prompt dealings with my issue!!!! I will continue to buy here(4 HD's and 1 02 and 3 batt's so far) and wanted LUNA and Eric and Ash to KNOW it means A LOT when I get treated fairly AFTER my purchase!!!

    Comment


      Am I able to buy the Ludacris controller for my BBSHD I purchased from you guys?

      Comment


      • HIGHVOLTAGE
        HIGHVOLTAGE commented
        Editing a comment
        I believe they're only sold with pre-built bikes at this time and not on their own. Sorry :(

      Hi - When might you have new Super Scooters and Apocalypse scooters in stock?

      Comment


      • HIGHVOLTAGE
        HIGHVOLTAGE commented
        Editing a comment
        Not likely anytime soon. I believe the word is that the company that was making them for us couldn't sustain part availability for warranties and we've since had to abandon the scooter project. However who knows? We still love scooters here so it may happen again but possibly not for a long time,

      I have a mid-drive BBSHD unit with a gear sensor and I'm concerned that the sensor might not be working. There's some documentation that says you'll know the gear sensor is working when you see a blue light. Where is the blue light supposed to be?? Also, when I shift gears there's sometimes a 'klunking' noise and feeling, which makes me wonder if it's working properly. Thanks for your help.

      Comment


      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        Depending on the model it will flash when shifting, yes. Some flash on, some are already on and flash off. Maybe there's even a version that does not flash at all. In any case if there is a light it's on the sensor housing. You should be able to tell when the sensor is cutting, it's a fraction of a second but still long enough to tell power is cutting even if testing on a stand. That's not to say you may not still have problems shifting, especially if you have not tuned your derailer recently, or you have a jacked up chain, or debris on the chainring, or a chipped chainring, or a bad chainline, or a crappy derailer, and so on.

      i turned on my bike and my 500c is not displaying anything at all. its just a lighted screen no graphics. it still vibrates and the pas still works just no screen. what do i do? thx

      Comment


      • HIGHVOLTAGE
        HIGHVOLTAGE commented
        Editing a comment
        Did it arrive in this condition or did it just start acting this way recently after a ride?

      been using it for a week, arrived to me last week. it just started. i just turned it on and stayed blank

      Comment


      • HIGHVOLTAGE
        HIGHVOLTAGE commented
        Editing a comment
        'Suppose you don't remember what was happening on your ride that may have caused this? Were you riding in the rain? Was anything ever pressed against the display hard? Was the bike ever stored upside down?

      it was woking perfectly on my ride home from work and hour before. never had any issues before hand at all.

      Comment


      • HIGHVOLTAGE
        HIGHVOLTAGE commented
        Editing a comment
        Well, that's not really answering the questions I asked, but email support@lunacycle.com with your order # and they'll get back to you soon.
        Last edited by HIGHVOLTAGE; 11-09-2018, 07:47 PM.

      supposed you could have just said email support from the get go. and i did answer your question. your basically asking me if it was my fault that it is not working correctly, which it is not, that answers your questions!

      Comment


      • HIGHVOLTAGE
        HIGHVOLTAGE commented
        Editing a comment
        Well, If it didn't arrive in that condition and worked for a bit, there could be a chance something happened during your ride that you might not have been aware of, however I'm not saying that's what happened but that's why I was asking those questions. This thread is for technical troubleshooting. Nobody here is going to jump to "it's defective and not your fault" without a few questions first. It just helps to know this stuff so it doesn't end up happening again.

        But none the less, just email support and they'll set you up with a display replacement. Should be fine.
        Last edited by HIGHVOLTAGE; 11-09-2018, 10:19 PM.

      Hi! Can someone link me to torque specs for the BBS02? Yes I know I don't *really* need them, but for giggles this build I decided to try to track them all down.

      Mounting the chainring to the motor, tightening the bottom bracket lock nut and m5 bolts, cranks, etc.

      Before linking me to a resource would you please verify that they are actually in there?

      thank you!
      Intro, Belt Driven Build

      Comment


      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        They're in the manual on the bbsxx document master repository. See the knowledge base

      Just got my kit. Some printed instructions would save a lot of time. Unsure what to do to wire this mini battery to my hd motor. Am I to make my own adapter with the wires supplied?

      Comment


      • HIGHVOLTAGE
        HIGHVOLTAGE commented
        Editing a comment
        The Mighty Mini comes with built in XT90 connectors (The yellow one) but the BBSHD comes default with Anderson Powerpole connectors.(Red/Black one) So you'll have to swap the BBSHD's Anderson Powerpoles out for the XT90 Pigtail connector you have there or make an adaptor out of both cables for an XT90 to Anderson connector but that would be pretty pointless. Easier to just replace the Andersons off the BBSHD since they are junk anyways.

      I'm hitting the low-voltage BMS cutout. It seems like I'm hitting it too early.

      Reference:
      I have the Luna 72V 17.5 AH triangle battery.
      https://lunacycle.com/72v-triangle-p...ebike-battery/
      I have the Luna 7500Watt motor
      I am using a Kelly KEB72601-X controller
      http://kellycontroller.com/keb72601x...gen-p-279.html
      I have the controller set to 50% motor phase current so I don't pop wheelies all the time.
      I am using a Cycle Satiator charger
      The Satiator is a fast and powerful universal battery charger that can be configured to charge a multitude of different battery types and voltages. It allows for partial charging to increase battery cycle life and has an OLED display screen to show realtime charging statistics. This is one of Grin’s most revered and popular products.


      OK, I started with a partially-charged pack (80.9 Volts) and drove around for a short time.
      When I was accelerating, I hit the BMS cutoff and waked home. :-( That didn't surprise me.

      I charged to 100% and the charger said the pack took 342 Watt-hours of charge. I expected it to take a lot more than that.

      Does it seem reasonable for a 1260 Watt-hour battery that has hit the low-voltage cutoff to take only 340 Watt-hours to get back to 100% charge?

      I understand that the higher discharge current, the more the battery voltage will droop, so <maybe> that's what's going on.
      I notice that if I hit the throttle wide-open, I can droop the 84 Volt charged pack down to something in the neighborhood of 60 Volts.
      That's a little surprising to me.
      Is that normal for a fully-charged battery?
      Do I just have a fantastic set of wiring and ring-connectors? (I tried to make the wiring as short as possible and as thick as possible)

      I don't like walking home, so I guess I'll have to keep off the throttle. but this seems sad.

      I'm interested in learning more.

      I can do experiments and post results if people are interested in this topic.
      Last edited by AlanKilian; 11-11-2018, 03:24 PM.

      Comment


      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        That GA pack is in a 5p configuration.

        GA cells are rated at 10a continuous per parallel string.

        You didn't say what exactly the peak current you are pulling from the pack, or the average current from pack... but that controller is capable of pulling WAY more current than the cells are rated for. Pack's good for 50a continuous at most, though less current will mean less sag.

        Also keep in mind that freezing temps mean significantly higher voltage sag as demonstrated in the battery temp document in knowledge base.

        You can put two packs in parallel if you want as long as they are the same battery in order to cut the load in half, or go with a different pack like 25r which is built for very high discharge rates

      • AlanKilian
        AlanKilian commented
        Editing a comment
        Thanks for the hints.

        I made two changes that have helps a lot:
        1) I set the maximum motor current at 30% (I think that's still 85 Amps)
        2) I set the high-speed battery current limit much lower. (I'm not sure what it's set to now.)

        After these changes, I can hit the throttle to 100% and the acceleration is still spiffy, but I don't draw down to 60 Volts on the battery.
        The biggest change came from the high speed battery current limiting. Before, I noticed that the faster I went, the lower the battery voltage went. Now, as I accelerate, the voltage drops, and gradually comes back up. It levels out at like 71 Volts when I'm going 30 MPH, so I like that.

        The last thing I want to try is to set the batter lower voltage limit. This is supposed to dial back the battery current when the battery voltage drops to some limit.

      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        Glad to hear it.

        That feature to dial down the current on the fly sounds very handy, especially on a controller that powerful :)
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