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    The brake sensor has a much shorter motor cut time than when you stop pedalling. I want to depower the motor when I shift with my electronic shifter (can not use shift sensor). I end up using the brake sensor, but I then have to brake in order to shift. Is there a setting on the Bafang controller software to reduce the motor power cut time when you stop pedalling, so it does not take 3-5 seconds for full power to return when you start pedalling? I have tried updating the power delay setting to 1 and 8, but it did not seem to make a difference.

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      Not that I know of, but I could be wrong?

      Have you considered an extension for the gearsensor cable if length is an issue?

    Originally posted by Mooka View Post

    Thanks! I'm looking to identify the function of the following wires with red arrows.
    Did you say what ebike that is off of? Make and model?

    Comment


    Hello. I have a new BBSHD, about 5 months old, and this morning on my way to work I got an "ERROR 12" on the DPC-18 display about a current sensor fault. The bike stopped running for a while, then started again, but not with proper current/power settings. Are there any known ways to fix this error other than a new controller? There is also a log for an Error 21 speedometer issue...is it possible that Error 12 is also affected by speedo issues, or other connections outside the controller?

    Comment


    • jrothe
      jrothe commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks guys. I understand the sensibility of checking first, but at this point I'm thinking that if the motor isn't a Version B, then I will probably change the connectors to spades on it anyway since I don't like the Andersons. I know the wires are pretty short coming out of the motor, but is there usually enough to change the connectors?

    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      That would be very difficult, but not impossible. You would have to keep in mind to release the andersons from their housing and pry the crimp off instead of cutting off the wiring. I would not recommend doing any of this

    • jrothe
      jrothe commented
      Editing a comment
      Hmm, ok. Thanks.

    I have a 48v Killer Whale battery. It came with your most basic charger and I am looking to upgrade. I am wanting to know which is a good replacement but I don't want something overly expensive. I noticed the LUNA CHARGER 48V ADVANCED 300W EBIKE CHARGER at $99.95 is Out Of Stock. Would this be the appropriate charger for my Killer Whale? How long until it is in stock. I can't ride until I get a charger. Any other suggestions that would work? I live near Seattle.
    Last edited by kcaravelli; 11-23-2018, 09:38 AM.

    Comment


    I have your most basic 48v charger for my Killer Whale and I stepped on the chord that goes into the batter and it broke the chrome connector which plugs into the battery. It does not look like the battery was damaged but this cable at the connector is broken. I'm wondering if you can repair this and if so how much will it cost and how long will it take. I can't ride until it is fixed as I'm disabled so I need the battery. I live in Olympia, WA so I can ship it or drive it down to Portland.
    Last edited by kcaravelli; 11-23-2018, 09:39 AM.

    Comment


    • HIGHVOLTAGE
      HIGHVOLTAGE commented
      Editing a comment
      Unfortunately we do not offer repair services for chargers, In most cases the whole charger ends up needing to be replaces instead of just a single part so it is not currently practical :(

    • Fred
      Fred commented
      Editing a comment
      Whatever connector you have that is broken should not be difficult to source and replace it on the charger. Assumes of course there is no damage to the charger itself or the battery connection. Can you post a pic of the broken connector?

    For example, this one doesn't even require soldering.
    1Pair Male&Female 5.5X2.1 DC Power Plug Jack Adapter Connector For CCTV Camera | Consumer Electronics, Surveillance & Smart Home Electronics, Home Surveillance | eBay!

    Comment


      LONE WOLF FULL SUSPENSION STANCE 2

      I wanted to ask about this new ebike, is the pedal assist based on a torque sensor or cadence sensor?

      Comment


      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        Bbshd motors use cadence sensor. TBH torque sensors are overrated. Our ultra has torque sensing but I would still take a bbshd over it any day

      Hi Luna, I'm in the process of setting up the BBSHD and the Luna mighty mini display.

      I'm setting it up with a 29er. But I can't go to the advance set up. I don't know the password. I used 1919 (from a YouTube video) but it didn't work.

      Also, under battery section, it said U B E. Is that right? I'm using the wolf pack.

      Regards,

      Comment


      • HIGHVOLTAGE
        HIGHVOLTAGE commented
        Editing a comment
        You can ignore the rest of the settings, they don't have much effect on the motor.

        For the assist issues, that is normal for a candence sensor. The RPM of the motor will always outpace your pedaling speed.

        Although 1200watts is a bit high, make sure it was actually programmed that way by using the programming cable to check it, it may not have been programmed for street legal

      • icestix
        icestix commented
        Editing a comment
        Thanks for the answer, I'm fine with having hot rod as the setting as well, I just want to know if that's the normal expected operation.

        Is there a way to see the estimated range with the current setting and battery's remaining power? Or is that not supported with the mini display?

        And since you mention that other settings do not matter, does the 29" wheel setting work? I'm wondering if the did reading is accurate.

        Thanks
        Last edited by icestix; 11-25-2018, 07:40 PM. Reason: Spelling

      • HIGHVOLTAGE
        HIGHVOLTAGE commented
        Editing a comment
        The wheel size options will just affect your speed reading accuracy, so just keep it at your wheel.size and it should be good

        For estimating range, use the voltage reading given by the display and use this chart as a reference


      I bought the DPC 18 mainly for the looks, voltage readout (im running a 52v battery), and the fact that its waterproof (mostly). sure the display/LCD itself is waterproof but how waterproof is the control pad?

      Comment


      I am trying to mount a supposedly adjustable 120mm square taper bb on a 111mm mongoose Malus. The part ordered is here: https://lunacycle.com/cyclone-square-bb-120mm/
      How does it adjust?? Do I just tap the bearing until I have it the width I want? or do I need to get a 110mm bb and grind the shell down a few mm?

      Comment


      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        It is my understanding you can tap it in if you need to.

      Originally posted by Mooka View Post

      Thanks! I'm looking to identify the function of the following wires with red arrows.

      Comment


        Hi there,

        I have a fairly new BBSHD and 750c display with only about 85 miles on it, much of which was from spinning the wheels in the stand. Last week, I took the bike running a bunch of errands in a sloppy wintery mess. After my last stop, the motor wasn't working, but it started working again part-way up the hill to my house, and then crapped out again. I didn't notice what error, if any, was being displayed at the time, but it is now showing 12H. The motor still works intermittantly, but usually only for less than a minute. Haven't tried it under load yet. I gather this is often a controller issue. Does this happen often? Are there things I can do to prevent it? Not really interested in sinking more money into this project if a little wintry mix is gonna fry my e-assist.

        Comment


        • HIGHVOLTAGE
          HIGHVOLTAGE commented
          Editing a comment
          None of Luna's BBSxx motors currently have a dedicated light plug. Bafang ships them to certain vendors if they request it but we just see it as another potential failure point. I would not recommend using a wired light and instead to use a wireless rechargeable light. This is what we do on our bikes and it's worked out for us :)
          Last edited by HIGHVOLTAGE; 11-29-2018, 11:24 AM.

        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          Well yeah the grommet is silicone, but in any case I mean that there are really only two ways the water can get to that controller. Either through the gasket or through the grommet. If the gasket is properly on there should be no way for water to get in, though I usually add dielectric or silicone on the edges of the gasket after I have greased the connectors on the internals.

          Anyway, only thing left is the grommet. I can imagine circumstances where water can pass up along that bundle of wires right to the circuitboard, maybe through capillary action or something. That's why whatever is already at that point should still have added protection.

        • Fhar
          Fhar commented
          Editing a comment
          Thanks to you both. Already sank a bunch of money into wired lights, and I'm fine with splicing/soldering, so I'll stick with that, but not into the controller's leads this time.

          And, yes, I know the grommet itself is silicone, but there's also silicone added as shipped around the wires. I wouldn't describe it as a "liberal" application of silicone, though. Is silicone preferable to dialectric grease around that bundle at the grommet? It seems to me the silicone might stiffen up in cold weather and allow gaps to form?

        I have a DIY bike with Luna parts--52V shark battery, BBSHD, GearSensor... I've encountered an issue lately where my power zeroes out randomly, mostly when I am accelerating from a dead stop. It only happens for a second and then my power goes back up. So, I'll accelerate, be at about 500-600 watts of power and then a quick zero (like it just dies), and then back to the normal power again. It just started in the last couple of days and I haven't been riding in anything sketchy (rain, wintry mix, etc.). My derailleur sometimes skips gears (needs replacement) but the issue doesn't seem to be happening when I shift.

        Do you have any idea of what may be causing this? Just looking for suggestions on how to troubleshoot.

        Comment


        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          Would also be useful to see if it is solely happening when using throttle or it also happens when being in PAS only

        • Michael Manteuffel
          Michael Manteuffel commented
          Editing a comment
          Happens in PAS only. Throttle sometimes is slow to get going, and that's been noticeable since the zeroing out started, but the throttle never zeroes out when I use it. My brakes are not plugged in. Today, it's gotten so bad that it actually kicks my motor. I typically don't rotate the pedals when I shift, BUT the issue happens when I'm just pedaling, not shifting, so I don't think not rotating the pedals will help. However, I do have a gear sensor. I will unplug that and see if it helps. Is it something where I just need to reboot (unplug and plug back in) the gear sensor? Or could it be the gear sensor has become faulty and needs to be replaced? I'll start with that and see what happens.

        • HIGHVOLTAGE
          HIGHVOLTAGE commented
          Editing a comment
          Wait, so are you throttling & pedaling at the same time in PAS levels?

        Is there a way to use the programming cable & software on a Mac?

        Comment


        • HIGHVOLTAGE
          HIGHVOLTAGE commented
          Editing a comment
          Unfortunately not. Sorry.

        I have installed my BBSHD on my Gazelle city bike but the cable leading from the motor to the handlebar mounted display is a touch too short for that perfect fit. I have found a "harness extension cable" on your website that appears to be the solution. Is the correct cable for my problem?

        By the way the BBSHD is absolutely wonderful... .

        Stephen

        Comment


        • HIGHVOLTAGE
          HIGHVOLTAGE commented
          Editing a comment
          Yes, the harness extension is what you're looking for. You'll probably have a bit of slack though so you might have to wrap it around the frame a bit to reduce it.

        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          There is also a display extension if you prefer. https://lunacycle.com/bafang-display-extension-cable/

        • HIGHVOLTAGE
          HIGHVOLTAGE commented
          Editing a comment
          Oh I'm a dumbass, I forgot that extension existed.
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