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    Originally posted by CPG View Post
    Do you mean they can be configured as needed, in either CC or TS version? Using the same base XL hub? Yes, the way you spelled it out is the way to order one if custom ordering one. Figuring out which one LUNA has is what I need to do. I am told I need the clamping pressure of TS for my sliding drop outs, but I also won't need a chain tensioner.
    Is this related to your Soma Sandworm?
    Click image for larger version  Name:	sandworm_frm_blu_rr341_1000.jpg Views:	1 Size:	60.9 KB ID:	81235



    I'd think you could use a CC (quick release) Rohloff with these dropouts (along with a Speedbone for the torque). If it was my build, I'd rather replace the left plate with the Paragon Rohloff plate, so you could use the Rohloff "OEM" torque axle plate.

    Regardless, also consider replacing the 4 M8 x 1.25 x 16 mm Stainless cap hex sliding plate bolts with titanium equivalents - they hold up much better.
    Last edited by ncmired; 01-14-2019, 08:39 AM.

    Comment


      hello guys i need help on my small issue. basically on my bbshd in some random instance when i crank the pedal from stop i can hear a loud click sound that feels like it slips the engagement or something and it slips for like a quarter of a turn then its fine again to pedal. this only happens when i pedal and i have no issues on full throttle mode. i can't record it on video coz its kinda random its hard to replicate.

      Comment


      Hi, while awaiting delivery for my 2nd BBS02 kit, wanted to know whether the ebrake levers will be appropriate for the V brakes on the bike, ie, long pull levers. Thanks!

      Comment


      • HIGHVOLTAGE
        HIGHVOLTAGE commented
        Editing a comment
        Personally I'd just use your default brakes and leave the E-bike levers uninstalled. The E-levers are junk and mostly increase cable clutter. The kit should work fine without them installed.
        Last edited by HIGHVOLTAGE; 01-14-2019, 04:19 PM.

      • js1260
        js1260 commented
        Editing a comment
        Thank you, I will consider that. However I am still interested in the question about whether the ebrake lever is short or long pull. Another option, given that the twist shift for the rear derailleur is integrated with the stock brake lever, is to just add brake sensors. Is that a common solution?

      • HIGHVOLTAGE
        HIGHVOLTAGE commented
        Editing a comment
        If I recall, it should be Long Pull but someone can correct me if I'm wrong. And yeah, brake sensors are an option. You can read more about installing them here. https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...-brake-sensors

      Hi team,

      I am looking to add a BBSHD kit to my 2016 Norco Torrent 7.1. Just wondering if you can please advise:
      • Have you done one of these before?
      • Which BBSHD size would suit the bottom bracket on this, in understand this is a 73mm bottom bracket used.

      I’m a little concerned that the boost rear end and chainstays may cause some issues, any advice appreciated!

      Cheers
      Damo

      Comment


      Originally posted by ncrkd View Post
      Is this related to your Soma Sandworm?
      Click image for larger version Name:	sandworm_frm_blu_rr341_1000.jpg Views:	1 Size:	60.9 KB ID:	81235



      I'd think you could use a CC (quick release) Rohloff with these dropouts (along with a Speedbone for the torque). If it was my build, I'd rather replace the left plate with the Paragon Rohloff plate, so you could use the Rohloff "OEM" torque axle plate.

      Regardless, also consider replacing the 4 M8 x 1.25 x 16 mm Stainless cap hex sliding plate bolts with titanium equivalents - they hold up much better.

      I was busy working all day with no internet access, but thanks for the info! The Sandworm is no longer made it turns out, and though I thought i had found a medium (and paid for it, since refunded), it turned out to be a large so I gave up on it, about the same time I discovered the Wednesday. I like the Worm's dropouts a LOT better, and WOULD go with a CC Rohloff on that. But I ran across a thread on the Wednesday where a Rohloff savvy person noted that if a Rohloff install was done on that style of slotted horz. dropouts, it'd for sure be best to be a TS model. A conversion of sorts of the Wednesday's dropouts to those more similar to the Worm is one option I will explore.

      Why not deal direct with Cycle Monkey, like I did on my Montague hub a couple years ago? Several hundreds of dollars, thats why, FULL RETAIL (and then some) and though I respect their expertise in all things Rohloff, this time I thought I'd puzzle it out on my own, using the experience gained on my first Rohloff build. My frame will be here in a few days, then I'll see exactly how to proceed. Paragon is on my radar, as is Surly with their "Monkeynutts", and an outfit called "Paul's Components", who is some kind of custom axle guru. Got ya on the Monkey Bone, my Montague has one, works great. I have my Cycle Monkey laced Montague wheel to show to my LBS, that should get them lined out for a start, and they already know about the higher spoke tension required, plus quality spokes, nipples etc.

      Comment


      • ncmired
        ncmired commented
        Editing a comment
        Oh ... Sorry about my confusion on the frame you're thinking about. Yeah, I'd think the same about that Surly horizontal dropout and going Rohloff TS - the vicious chain tug of the Bafang could probably easily overcome a quick release.

        How one deals with the required torque stuff, and I'd gues the need to readjust the brake caliper position everytime the chain tension is set ... I don't think I'd like that design. I prefer the sliding or rocker plates - well, so far.

        On Rohloff pricing, I've seen some attractive pricing via eBay (eastern Europe) - how that works out, who knows.

      It may end up being simpler to just go with a fixed, permanent position, and avoid the brake issue, by using a chain tensioner after all. I think I will have tire room to run the hub all the way forward, tight, if not spacers are made to fill any gaps, movement back isn't the issue I'm told, but forward, I'm told. That is my backup plan anyway, if I can't come up with something that mimics the setup the Worm had. I am waiting for feedback from some oversea quotes on the XL, about $800.00 less then Cycle Monkey near as I can tell! Plus customs duty and shipping, but still.... Last post here, I'll post the end results on the geared hub forms. Thanks for the refund LUNA, sorry it didn't work out.

      Comment


      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        No worries man, did you already request refund/cancel or if not do you have order# so we can log it?

      I'm already refunded, thanks. But now the plot thickens.... 2 days and I have not heard back from the overseas outfit that purportedly had a TS version, (at a price too good to be true, guess it was) or any other suppliers who advertise just the CC version, just total silence when asked about getting a TS, weird. Looking at some of the other ways I can set this rear end up, I may find that after all a QR type axle may be the way to "go". If so I'll order again, and this time I'll mean it!

      Comment


        I got an error code 30 and replaced the controller, no luck. Replaced the display and cable from controller to display, no luck, still has the error code 30. I did not connect the brake cable or gear change cable. Is there something that could be bad in the motor or could it have anything to do with the wiring from the shark battery? Thanks

        Comment


        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          30 is a communication error. The battery does not communicate, it just provides power. Did you replace the wiring harness?

        • Dave Schlabowske
          Dave Schlabowske commented
          Editing a comment
          I replaced the display, cable between the display and the controller, and the harness that comes with the controller of course. I think the only other cables are between the controller and the battery and the cable to the speed sensor. It doesn't seem like those should matter for this code.

        • HIGHVOLTAGE
          HIGHVOLTAGE commented
          Editing a comment
          Check to see if there's a bent pin somewhere. Maybe check your motor core too just in-case.

        Hello

        I am looking to purchase a Magic Pie 5, however I am looking to upgrade the brakes with some Magura MTe5 brakes.

        The problem is there are two types:

        A HIGO Opener NO & HIGO Closer NO - one opens, while the other closes the circuit.

        Magura ▶ 4-piston disc brake for eBike use. Available with HIGO Closer NO or HIGO Opener NC.


        Ignoring the connector mismatch between the two systems (Magic Pie and brakes) can someone let me know if the circuit needs to be closed or opened in the magic pie to active the motor breaking.

        Any help would be greatly appreciated.

        Regards

        Dominic

        Comment


          Hi Dominicc002,
          And welcome to the forum!

          The brake switch circuit needs to close in the actuated (braking) position to initiate the Pie's motor off and regeneration functions.
          See my completed Magic Pie V5 rear hub motor E-Bike build HERE.

          Comment


          • dominicc002
            dominicc002 commented
            Editing a comment
            Thank you very much for that much appreciated ;)

          I am installing a bbso2 kit. 4 wires are coming out of motor one double goes to battery one goes up and goes to beakes and thumb throttle and display. Another wire goes back to speed sensor. One wire left yellow tip where does this wire go

          Comment


          • HIGHVOLTAGE
            HIGHVOLTAGE commented
            Editing a comment
            Gear Sensor wire which is optional. If you don't have a Gear Sensor, you can just put the cap back on it and tuck it away.

          With a 42 tooth chainring on a single speed bbhd bike what is the best size cog. Just woods trail riding less than 12 mph

          Comment


          • paxtana
            paxtana commented
            Editing a comment
            At 12mph or less you probably want whatever cog is the largest you can fit. Maybe a 32t or 28t, though it is going to be down to personal preference.

          Hi, not very electrically savvy so need some help figuring this out. One of my battery chargers failed today. It was used in a clean and well ventilated location. The fan always powered on. There was a faint smell off burning plastic during the first 10 min of the charge cycle in the back of the charger (right where the failed part is located). The battery pack charges and operates normally.

          Presumably due to overheating? Is it a bad BMS? Or a bad charger? Attaching pics of the failure. Could use some insight on what may have been the problem and the name of the part that failed. Thank you.

          Battery specs:
          Battery Model 48V20T
          Voltage 48V
          Capacity: 20AH
          Type: Li-Ion 18650 cells
          Brand Name: AODA
          BMS Rating: 2C
          Size: Triangle 10.5" x 15.0" x 18.0" x 3.75" wide
          Weight: 6 KG (13.20 lbs)
          Cycles 800++
          Charger 110V/220V in 48v 4AH out
          Source Resistance \<40(mO)
          Cell Combination 9P13S
          Cell Quantity (parallel*series) 9*13
          Discharge Cutoff Voltage 37.6V
          Charge Cutoff Voltage 54.6V
          Rated Discharge Current 40A
          Instantaneous Maximum Discharge Current 50A
          Maximum Continuous Discharge Current 38A
          Maximum Continuous Charge Current 5A
          Charge Mode CC-CV
          Standard Charge Current 2A
          Charge Time Standard Charge Current 10 hours
          Fast Charge Current 5A
          Charge Time under Fast Charge Current 5 hours
          Charge Temperature Range -20C -55C
          Discharge Temperature Range -20C -55C
          Last edited by Boris192; 01-18-2019, 07:47 PM.

          Comment


          • paxtana
            paxtana commented
            Editing a comment
            This thread is mostly for asking Luna questions about our products not about stuff from other sellers, though we do have the rest of the forum for that.

            Anyway, looks like the charger simply failed. Most typical ebike chargers have a fairly high fail rate, it is not uncommon regardless of the supplier. You need to buy a new one.

          • Boris192
            Boris192 commented
            Editing a comment
            I figured. Thanks for the reply. Sorry about the mispost. Will keep that in mind in the future.

          Hey there,
          I purchased an advanced 300W 52V charger from you guys a few weeks ago and have had a few flawless charging cycles, but today I plugged it into the wall and then plugged in the battery, left for a few minutes (this is the 4th charge cycle and the first one really that I left unattended, even though the charger is supposed to shut itself off when the battery is charged) and when I came back the charger was dark, no power running through it. No it wont turn on when I plug it in. I'm totally at a loss for what could have happened, the past cycles have been fine and this one was only charging for 5-10 mins, can't imagine it got too much heat or any kind of stress...
          Any help would be appreciated, I hope my charger aint dead... Thanks :)

          Comment


          • artdrectr
            artdrectr commented
            Editing a comment
            Sounds like a busted fuse.

          • HIGHVOLTAGE
            HIGHVOLTAGE commented
            Editing a comment
            Unfortunately there's no way to technically troubleshoot these charges under this circumstance. Maybe check the fuse to see if it's blown? If it's blown, it will need to be replaced.

          What chain rings does LUNA have, that have an offset? Right now I run a Mighty Mini 30T, on my BBSHD derailleur system fat bike, and of course no offset is possible with that ring. In doing some rough figuring on my new Rohloff build fat bike, it appears that my chain line would be 10 MM offset. Not bad, and I could live with that, but if I can get the final gearing I need AND have a perfect chain line, why not? Right now, on my other Rohloff equipped bike, I run a 42 T/16T combo (2.65 ratio) and thanks to the wide gearing spread of the hub, I have all the low AND high gears I need, and would like to approximate that ratio on this next build. I already have a 19T Rohloff cog, which is the largest they make, so in theory I could go as large as a 50 T chain ring, and with that 19 T cog, have a ratio of 2.63, so I should get similar performance with both bikes, which is my intent.

          So, what does LUNA have that would hopefully offset (inboard) my chain ring 10 mm, or at least minimize that 10 mm discrepancy from a straight chain line? What choices do I have in tooth count, once we start talking using an offset ring? Thanks

          Comment

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