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    I've read conflicting info on charging. Should I plug the charger into the wall first then into the battery, or battery first then into the wall?

    Comment


    • ncmired
      ncmired commented
      Editing a comment
      It may be charger dependent - my little 2 amp chargers won't start unless connected battery first then into the wall.

    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      Yeah it depends. Some chargers like ncrkd described need a load to turn on, they attempt to provide this as a sort of smart charging function. In practice it can be more problematic than helpful, as such a lot of chargers no longer have that sort of functionality.

      On something like a luna charger, you know when you plug it into the outlet it is putting out power through the charger. Very useful for if you ever need to do force charging, jumpstarting etc. On a charger like this you want it plugged into that wall outlet before plugging into the battery, otherwise you may see a small spark plugging into the battery first.

    • BCBeaver
      BCBeaver commented
      Editing a comment
      I was told my Luna charger should be wall first. If I plug battery first I get a nice little spark as I plug in the battery. I only discovered that because someone unplugged my charger.

    Hello
    I have A 40 A Cyclone controller than I have put it in a new housing in order to fit it to my bike. I have also removed unused wires 3 speed switch, PAS,Reverse. Unfortunately I accidentally removed the battery wire form the main board that indicates the key switch is on. I believe I put it back in the correct location but the controller does not work I have verified the break and throttle are working but still no output to the phase wires, Would it be possible to post a photo of this controller board so i can confirm the wiring is correct?

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      Bummer. Yeah that key switch can throw you for a loop, I wish controller companies would stop putting that on there.

      I can't speak for everyone reading this thread but I do not personally have any wiring diagram that follows that wiring all the way to the actual circuitboard. I do not believe our tech that made the cyclone diagram has anything like that either.

      I think the easiest thing would be to just get a new one. They are very affordable as far as ebike controllers go, and you might be able to figure out the wiring problem comparing the unmodified controller to the one that was modified one. If you get the first one working it never hurts to have a spare as a backup.

    I have a 73mm bottom bracket, where I was afraid the bbshd housing was too close to the chain stay. I purchased the 73-100mm kit spacers, but I'm not sure how to make the difference up for the ~26mm on the other side.

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      All the spacers should be situated on the drive side. You will need considerably more spacers than what you have if you need to take up that much length.

    • steverichab
      steverichab commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks paxtana! It was worth a try. Fortunately I have made this mod on my wife's cyclone controller without getting cut happy. I was trying to avoid taking her rig apart but that is what I will do. Also the spare is a good idea!

    If a spacer was placed on the other side, do I run into a chain alignment problem?

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      Generally the biggest reason you don't put spacers on both sides is that the teeth of that black triangle motor mount should be touching the actual bottom bracket shell.

      There are workarounds of course, like using one of the alternate mount brackets we sell, bsb-1 or bsbf-1

    • pure_mahem
      pure_mahem commented
      Editing a comment
      You could use a Bafang Stabilizer if the spacing is way off. Ive also noted you could put spacers on after the bracket but would have to shim where the bracket mounts to the motor as well.

    I'd like to combine em3ev Jumbo Shark battery with hub motor. what connectors do I need to combine the two anybody knows?

    Comment


    • HIGHVOLTAGE
      HIGHVOLTAGE commented
      Editing a comment
      Depends on the Hub Motor. You need to check which connectors it uses or if it needs to have connectors put on it. Then ask Em3ev which connector they use for their Jumbo Shark. In all likelyhood probably Anderson Powerpoles. In any case you're not stuck with a single type of connector, you can technically use any connector you want as long as it has a 30 amp rating or higher and just replace both sides with them.

      XT90's are always a popular choice

      xt90 s connector for ebike packs. Top of the line spark resistant connector. No solder needed


      Combine with the Solder Sleeve kit and it should be easy to setup without any soldering needed

      Distributors and builders of high power electric bikes and trail bikes plus parts


      For reference, most Hub Motors don't even use standard connectors anyways, you usually end up having to cut them off and then replace them with something better anyways, so this would probably be the best route here. Maybe try asking em3ev if they'll send you a Shark Pack with XT90's soldered onto it? That way you only have to replace the motor side connectors.
      Last edited by HIGHVOLTAGE; 02-24-2019, 12:31 PM.

    • droopy4096
      droopy4096 commented
      Editing a comment
      sorry I was unclear - I was going to use Luna's hub motor kit sans battery. The only non-Luna component was supposed to be the battery itself, but I think you kind of answered my question anyway. thanks :)

    Hello
    I order the asi bac800 controller few months ago for cyclone motor
    Everything works, I just somehow need to adjust the throttle to supply fast start power. I have a heavy custom built drift trike. Is there a way I can come in with the controller and have the setting adjusted. Or a way I can do it myself. I'm delivering the bike this weekend and would like to figure this asap. Thanks

    Comment


    • HIGHVOLTAGE
      HIGHVOLTAGE commented
      Editing a comment
      I don't think the ASI 800 controllers are currently programmable unfortunately.

    Hi. I bought a mid-drive kit, 750w from Luna Cycles. It´s been almost two years and the trip counter is increasing while the e-bike is off. For example: I reset the trip counter, turn off. Some hours pass, and the trip counter shows 260km or more. Always near that number. What is going on?

    Comment


    • HIGHVOLTAGE
      HIGHVOLTAGE commented
      Editing a comment
      Never seen anyone have this issue before. Was the display ever exposed to rain? Are you sure it's turned off fully? Like unplug the battery and then see if the trip counter goes up.

    • pure_mahem
      pure_mahem commented
      Editing a comment
      My guess would be maybe the speed sensor is getting tripped. perhaps unplugging it while the bike is sitting.

    Hi. Quick question. Will the Lekkie Buzz Bar cranks work with the TSDZ2 motor? If not, any suggestions for crank arms with an offset on the left side, straight on the right? Thanks

    Comment


    • HIGHVOLTAGE
      HIGHVOLTAGE commented
      Editing a comment
      I don't think this has been tested yet but the cranks use a common square taper joint that's shared across A LOT of different bicycles. I'd wager to say they'd work just fine.

    I have this controller (pictured) on my bike along with a 48v 10.4 ah battery, also pictured . Id like to know if I can use the 52v Mighty Mini Cube as a backup to my battery and if so what could I expect mileage wise ? Thank you .

    Comment


    • HIGHVOLTAGE
      HIGHVOLTAGE commented
      Editing a comment
      The label doesn't specify whether it will accept 52v batteries so there's no way to really tell, but if it does, yes it would be fine and mileage would be about 10-15miles but also depends heavily on terrain, wind, and riding style.

    • kerrylaw7307
      kerrylaw7307 commented
      Editing a comment
      You MIGHT be able to use that battery with that controller, however be aware that your low-voltage cut-off, will now be around 2.9 Volts per cell. This is getting into the range of damaging the cells. ( 41v cut-off / 14cells = 2.9v per cell )

    How do I determine whether it will accept 52v or not ?

    Comment


    • HIGHVOLTAGE
      HIGHVOLTAGE commented
      Editing a comment
      You can try contacting the original manufacture but otherwise there's not much you can do. It says it's rated for 48v, so it was likely designed that way.

    • Tommycat
      Tommycat commented
      Editing a comment
      A disqualifier that's easy to check would be the controller's capacitors' voltage ratings. With a nominal input voltage of 52 volts, they would need to be rated at 63 volts or higher... (still no guarantee)

    Okay , I'll try to find a battery like the one I have . Thanks .

    Comment


      Having trouble with fitting BBSHD in the BB. JIS standard, 73mm. All boxes check for compatibility, but will only fit halfway through. Can't see obstructions in the shell. Motor is not getting hung up on the frame. Ideas, thoughts?

      Comment


      • HIGHVOLTAGE
        HIGHVOLTAGE commented
        Editing a comment
        Just keep at it, use sand paper on the inside to help smooth the shell out.

      Can I use the secondary reduction cover replacement part with 7 mounting holes to replace one that had 5 mounting holes? If not, where can I get the one with 5 mounting holes?

      Comment


      • HIGHVOLTAGE
        HIGHVOLTAGE commented
        Editing a comment
        What? What motor are you even referring to? What 7 hole reduction cover are you looking at? The more details we can get here, the better.
        Last edited by HIGHVOLTAGE; 03-03-2019, 01:59 PM.

      • isaacbeachy
        isaacbeachy commented
        Editing a comment
        Luna cycle sells this:

        which has 7 mounting holes. On that webpage it says, "There are 2 versions, this is the newer version with 7 mounting holes." My broken cover that I'm replacing only has five mounting holes. It looks like the five holes are at the same location on both models. I am trying to confirm that the position of the mounting holes has not changed between the current and previous versions of the secondary reduction cover.

      • ncmired
        ncmired commented
        Editing a comment
        I've got a seven-bolt BBS02 on my bench - if you can tell me the bolt distances between your five (in millimeters, please), I can compare to the corresponding bolts on mine. The bolts are not evenly spaced on the seven bolt cover.

        If not, I think you can get the cover from another source (https://california-ebike.com/shop/ba...-cover-5-hole/).
        Last edited by ncmired; 03-03-2019, 04:03 PM.

      Hi, is it possible/advisable to run 2 mighty mini's in parallel? Would they use the same charger? (this is assuming a luna controller, etc...)

      Comment


      Hello. I've been happily writing a custom build, when suddenly my battery does not seem to take a charge. It's a 58V volt. It was at 52.5v and I plugged it in and the fan revved up for not-even-a-second before it clicked off and LED 2 turned green again. There is a tiny tick sound and it actually charges but an impossibly slow rate. Every so often, the fan kicks on and off. I've seen ridden it down to 51.5v, but same results. Battery issue? Charger issue?

      This is my primary way of moving my children and me around, so I am hopeful for a quick and actionable reply! Thanks,

      Comment


      • HIGHVOLTAGE
        HIGHVOLTAGE commented
        Editing a comment
        Is this a LunaCycle battery/charger? If so, Probably best to email support@lunacycle.com about this with your order #

      • calfee20
        calfee20 commented
        Editing a comment
        You should have an extra charger anyway for this very reason. I have not found any charger to be very reliable.
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