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    I plan on getting a cable. I haven't bypassed the display.

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      I will do that first thing Monday after work. Thank you for the info HV. I will keep you updated on what I find.

      Comment


        Hi I am building my first E-bike.I have a bafang HD 1000W and bought a battery from Luna mate NZ. The battery is 52V and the 850c controller shows an error code 07H as it thinks the voltage is too high. Is the only way to fix this to reprogram the Bafang motor? I have changed the 850C controller to UBE but it still shows the error code. The frustrating thing for me is no one in Auckland NZ stocks the programmable USB lead so I have to wait a week or two for one to arrive. I am dreaming of riding the thing :-)

        Comment


        • HIGHVOLTAGE
          HIGHVOLTAGE commented
          Editing a comment
          Where did you buy the 850C?

        Hi
        I bought the motor and controller from China. I have just been informed from Luna mate NZ that there is potentially a batch of motors that trip the error code at 57.8v and this can only be fixed by returning the motor to the supplier and reprogramming will not fix this!! Has anyone else had this issue or got a work around solution?

        Comment


        • dex
          dex commented
          Editing a comment
          Hi
          I am now starting to realise its a firmware issue. Has anyone succeeded in upgrading/changing the firmware?

        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          Lol. The firmware is not even in English dude, it's Mandarin or something, and no documentation, no manual, no intro guide. Bafang does not even give it out to most dealers, and there's some limitations on the dealers that do have it not being allowed to distribute it. At Lunacycle we got it figured out but most suppliers or end users, unlikely.

          Honestly you would be better off just cutting your losses and buying a controller from a reputable seller. Maybe you can resell the 48v controller on eBay or in the deals section on this forum. For someone that only uses 48v it's perfectly fine so it still has market value you can recoup.

        • Mike Muyres
          Mike Muyres commented
          Editing a comment
          Yes I am having the same problem. I bought on aliexpress. I am thinking of keeping it and using a charger that cuts off at 80%. Luna sells one for less than $100. Better for your battery not to full charge.

        Hello, looking to buy a charger but unsure what connector adaptor I need, I’ve posted a photo of the battery below. Thanks!

        Comment


        Sorry if I screw this up; first timer. I just bought a cargo bike with a luna cycle conversion. Unfortunately, it didn't come with a key to unlock the battery. Does anyone have a key that works with a cylinder labelled "3244?" I know a locksmith is an option, but just checking here first.

        Comment


        • HIGHVOLTAGE
          HIGHVOLTAGE commented
          Editing a comment
          Locksmith is gonna have to be your option here. The keys are fairly generic and easily made so a locksmith should have no problem making you a replica.

        Hi there!
        I am into bikes for a long time but an aspiring newbie at e bikes.
        I want to convert my trekking bike to an E-Bike with a mid crank torque sensing motor.
        I usually do moderately long rides (30-80 km) on asphalt roads but on a hilly landscape.
        I want to expand the range of my rides. I still want to put considerable effort so will not be using the motor at high levels of assist for long time.
        I picked the following combo:
        TSDZ2 48v 750w 18a - VLDC 5 &
        Hailong E-Bike Battery 48V 17Ah Lithium ion Battery with 30A BMS

        Would you mind answering some questions?
        1. Is the above a good combo? Will there be any compatibility issues with motor and battery?
        2. Are all cables for connecting the motor to the battery included? Will I need to solder any special sockets to the end of the cables in order to make the system work or is it plug-n-play?
        3. What range should I expect (approximately) with that battery? (100 kgr total weight with battery and motor, motor in 2nd level “tour” mode, level road, no wind)
        4. I consider buying a double chainring for the motor, attach one more sprocket (triple chainring) and put it to work with my existing triple middle derailer. Do you see any problem with that?
        5. How long does it take for an almost empty battery to fully charge?

        Please do not mind my so many questions. Looking forward for your reply and I thank you in advance for it.

        George from Greece

        Comment


        • HIGHVOLTAGE
          HIGHVOLTAGE commented
          Editing a comment
          1. No issues there, 48v is perfectly compatible with this motor )

          2. You're going to have to change the plugs out as they likely won't arrive with matching plugs. This is pretty much only the case with the BBSHD and BBS02 Mid-Drive kits. Although this is fairly easy to do and should be an essential skill in every E-bikers arsenal. We have XT90 pigtails on the website and a Solder Sleeve kit, combine these two together and you technically don't even need to solder anything. You just need a heat source like a stove or a torch.

          xt90 s connector for ebike packs. Top of the line spark resistant connector. No solder needed

          Distributors and builders of high power electric bikes and trail bikes plus parts


          Also, if you live near any R/C hobby shops that deal with drones and stuff, they will often be able to offer soldering services for you.

          3. Range is so heavily dependant on so many factors like terrain, speed, riding style, temperature and gearing that I don't think anyone here could really tell you how much range you're going to get out of your specific situation. Generally speaking a 48v battery at about 13ah will do close to 25-30miles of range under good conditions such as flat ground, a lot of cruising and minimal accelerating/aggressive riding. You can expect to get far less if your situation is different.

          4. There are no double chainrings for this motor. This is probably not going to work unfortunately as the motor was never designed for it and there are no parts for it. Also keep in mind the TSDZ2 was just released at the end of 2018 earlier. It's still very new and not a lot of customisation options have been explored yet. If you're looking for customization, a BBSHD or BBS02 would be a far better choice. You can get a double chainring setup to work with some messing around with custom chainrings and adaptors.

          5. Depends, you shouldn't ever bring a battery down to empty. Always cut if off and end your ride around 30% charge left. If not, you're going to see a huge decrease in your range in as little as a few months. Not good :( But for a 17ah battery, it's about 4-6 hours from that point on. Usually E-bikers don't charge all the way to 100% and don't discharge past 30% so charging times tend to be quicker than you would think. Since most of the time you're usually charging from like 40% to 80%-90%
          Last edited by HIGHVOLTAGE; 03-19-2019, 11:00 AM.

        • rverstee
          rverstee commented
          Editing a comment
          On #3, you ask about range you ask about range on level road but you describe your target riding conditions as hilly terrain with minimal assist. Those are potentially very different scenarios from a battery range perspective. I’ve ridden 60 miles on single charge of a 13.5 amp battery on hill terrain. That involve deliberate battery coservation - using least assist needed mainly to get up steeper hills. In other words not using assist to go faster all the time. Besides reducing consumption overall, this means you are alternating between drawing power and letting the battery rest. The above scenario is very different from using power assist to increase speed while driving on level terrain where your range would be much shorter.

        36v battery pack..... have I missed the boat or will Luna offer these again? Thanks

        Comment


        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          Over a long enough timeline I would not rule it out but it's not something we regularly stock. For the most part we are a high-performance company and 36 V is relatively underwhelming. We did have some sharks at 36 that were part of a special order on behalf of someone we got a whole bunch for, but these have since sold out.

        I bought a BBSHD and installed it. Out of the box, it did not work. The computer was bad. After replacing the controller It ran OK but made a growling noise. At 340 miles, the growling grew louder. At 349 miles, the motor stopped delivering power. Applying the throttle resulted in a loud grinding noise accompanied by vibrations. Something clearly stripped out inside the motor.

        I bought another BBSHD from a different vendor. It lasted quite a bit longer. and it was silent. The little bit of sound it made at maximum RPM reminded me of BART. Just at a much much lower db level. Very hard to hear it.
        The odometer is at about 1900 miles now. This time there was no grinding noise. No sounds that predicted an upcoming failure. It sounded great and ran great right up to the moment it stopped working.

        I'm not abusing this motor. The first one, maybe a little. Thats only if you consider applying full throttle on flat ground to be abuse. Im not running the throttle and applying the breaks. Im not instantly applying full throttle 30 amps in high gear.
        The second motor I frequently limited the current to 20 AMPS up until I was going 20 MPH, then changed the PAS to 9 to get the 30 amps.
        I use it for work. want it to last. So i am careful to not overload the motor.

        But, overheating and burning the motor out does not seem to be the issue. This motor has a problem with internal gears. 2 motors and $2,000 later when combining the initial cost of the kit, and the 2nd motor only got me 2000 miles.

        Is there a reliable alternative to the BBSHD. I'm sure its gonna be my fault because I didnt disasemble the BBSHD and oil it or some other thing I did wrong. But, i recieved no paper work telling me I needed to do so.
        Who sells a motor that lasts 10,000 miles without taking it apart every 1,000 miles or less? Where can i buy it? Ill be happy with 5,000 miles actually.

        Comment


        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          What do you mean by using it for work? If you are saying you are using this commercially, like a pedicab or delivery vehicle, then it's probably not a huge surprise it wore out, not really designed for that sort of thing.

          But if you want top durability you want something the least complex. The less complex something is the less there is for something to go wrong. That means a direct drive hubmotor. Lot less torque for the applied power since you can not downshift the motor, but generally speaking there is not a lot mechanically going on inside of a direct drive hubmotor. That's not to say that it can not still break from the usual things like getting saltwater on a connector and shorting it out, blowing a cap in the controller, etc., But mechanically you would not strip a gear because there's no gear inside of it

        • HIGHVOLTAGE
          HIGHVOLTAGE commented
          Editing a comment
          Yeaaah, you have to take care of a Mid-Drive the same way you would take care of your car. If you just ignore any regular maintenance and ride it carelessly, you're going to get loud noises and stripped gears and endless problems

          Next time add a fresh batch grease to the motor before you ride for the first time. This will make it dead silent and ensure you have few issues along the way. This is the same as changing your oil on a car so it's essential and needs to be done at least at some point. The earlier, the better though.

          This tutorial is to do maintenance on the BBSHD<br><br> You better don't take any chances and order a paper gasket they break very easily, Click here. (https://lunacycle.com/parts/bafang-parts/bbshd-parts/gasket-for-main-steel-gear-bbshd/) <br><br> Tools needed:<br> You will need a small blade
          Last edited by HIGHVOLTAGE; 03-19-2019, 03:44 PM.

        • Tommycat
          Tommycat commented
          Editing a comment


          Best of both worlds? ;-)

          Tricumbent's Build

        I started with a Sondors fatty and just built a BBSHD, 1600W 52 v from Luna on a Cannondale 29 hard tale and love it so far. I have put about 80 miles on it and amazed at how good it is compared to the Sonders. (Not that there is anything wrong with the Sondors this is just so much better). My only complaint/question is that the battery gauge will show full for most of the ride and maybe go down to 3/4 and then drops to a quarter fast and bike switches off, when I check voltage after pedaling home the battery still reads 21-22 volts. Is this normal? Is there a better battery monitor to use? I have been getting about 15 miles or about an hr to hr and a half on battery in very hilly terrain using mostly PAS2 and some throttle on the steep stuff, about normal?

        Comment


        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          The gauge was designed for 48 so it will always show full. Depending on the display, you should go off of the actual voltage reading. The color displays all show voltage.

        So reading up it says its a good idea to wire one of these into your diy build.
        Distributors and builders of high power electric bikes and trail bikes plus parts


        I don't like the idea of just having a push button on/off button on my battery box. If i lock my bike up at a store or something I just know ill come out to find some kid pushing the button.

        I would rather have something like this instead of the push button.


        I understand it doesn't come that way and i would have to add that myself. But what is the voltage and amperage specs of the button itself?. Is the keyed switch I linked to adequate far as voltage and amperage rating?

        Is it plausible to run a Y splitter from the motor have one of these Remote on/off solid state switches on each split and then connect to 2 separate batteries. using the solid state switches to switch between the batteries (both switches would never be in the on position at the same time)? Thinking it would not only act as an on/off switch but a keyed switch between battery A and Battery B.
        2018 Motobecane Boris Fat Bike BBSHD Build

        Comment


        • HIGHVOLTAGE
          HIGHVOLTAGE commented
          Editing a comment
          The switch is only rated for 12v-24v. This will not work on your setup without adding a resistor or something. This just seems like a whole lot of work and wiring and extra potential failure points for just a simple key switch. I really doubt you're going to ever find a kid pushing the buttons on your bike while it's locked up. And if he does, it's not really going to do anything.

        2018 Motobecane Boris Fat Bike BBSHD Build

        Comment


        • pure_mahem
          pure_mahem commented
          Editing a comment
          sorry i'm new to adding photos. Where the arrow is on the picture I see it says 12V. Does that mean that the Input switch only needs to be rated for 12V even though the load it's controlling will be much higher?

        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          This is probably correct but I would email support re:Sebastien for confirmation before doing what you plan on doing, just so you can get confirmation from an actual technician before attempting this as I am not aware of anyone doing so before. That said, I don't see any reason why it would not work.

        • Tommycat
          Tommycat commented
          Editing a comment
          I use one of these SSRs... Make sure your under the voltage and capacitance pre-charge capabilities noted in this post and on the item page.

          And the 12 volts refers to the LED supply wires and not the switch. I feel confident that your keyed switch referenced would easily do the job, as it's switching with electronics (two middle wires) with no heavy lifting. I like the idea of a keyed switch. (But like a shiny, glowing, LED better. :-) But may I recommend possibly using a throttle with a keyed switch and voltmeter LED all in one unit. Or even neater, a totally hidden reed switch which is activated by a magnet. :-O So many choices, so little time.

        I am trying to find a replacement for the throttle that I currently have on my ebike. I'm having a really hard time finding one with the same connectors that need to connect to my controller. Below is a photo of what I currently have. Do you have anything for sale in your store that would be compatible with this? 2 connectors. 1 with 3 wires red, black and white and a 2nd connector with two wires that are green and yellow. Please help!
        Click image for larger version

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        • HIGHVOLTAGE
          HIGHVOLTAGE commented
          Editing a comment
          Unfortunately we do not carry anything that's going to be Plug N Play compatible. Sorry. You'll wanna contact the original seller for information like this.

        I have a ludicurus motor 2500 w
        i think i need to change kontroller .
        Does 1000w controllers fit ?
        wich one should i have ? Can you send me a link

        Comment


        Hello, I just received my wolf pack and I have been trying to balance out the pack by charging it to 100% for the 1st 4 - 6 charges. I have the 300W 52V advanced charger and I'm running it on a BBSHD. My first charge read 58.8 A+, my next charge read 58.0, my charge last night capped out at 57.9 and the charger turned off. I let the battery sit at 57.9 from about 11pm till 7:30am and then rode in with out any issue. I now have the battery hooked to my 52V mini charger set to 100%, but I won't have a way to get a read out of the charge. Except at the controller which has been reading 56.3 at 100%.

        My 2nd part of the question is, when balancing and charging to 100% - What is the longest amount of time I should keep the pack charged to 100%? i.e. last night the pack sat at 100% or 57.9V for 8.5 hours. Would that cause issues or damage?

        Thanks in advance for any advise.

        Comment


        • HIGHVOLTAGE
          HIGHVOLTAGE commented
          Editing a comment
          Anytime the pack is nearly 100%, it causes degradation. Think of it like a bucket that's filled up with water and pressurised. The bucket is going to be unstable if it's completely full and nearly bursting from the edges. But if it's like 70% full, there isn't enough pressure to cause any problems. I mean, there's more chemistry to it than that but that's the basic idea and it helps to think of electricity like water in some cases. So the less time you're at 100%, the better. But the damage is long term and slow, not immediate.

          Generally speaking your charger just may need a little adjustment I think. Kinda hard to say though. I'd keep charging it and see if it gets worse and worse, If so, you may need a new charger.

          https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=taNI-7x5BoY&feature=youtu.be Charger fine tuning basics https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H9ENLcYFn54&feature=youtu.be Example of adjusting a charger How to adjust the Luna charger They all have 3 potentiometers in them, we will call them P1, P2 & P3 P1 is

        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          If you have a mini and advanced you could plug into the advanced after charging fully with the mini. The voltmeter on the advanced should read the state of charge even if final voltage has floated from the ideal 58.8. You can adjust final voltage as described by highvoltage if needed.

          May also want to get a multimeter btw. Very useful tool for ebikers. Then you can measure directly off the battery
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