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    My APOCALYPSE E-SCOOTER V2 will not charge...it has been sitting all winter...when attached to the scooter the charger is silent and one of the two lights flashes green and red...what to do?

    Comment


    • HIGHVOLTAGE
      HIGHVOLTAGE commented
      Editing a comment
      Email support@lunacycle.com and ask for Seb.

      Also, sitting all winter how? In dry/warm conditions? And at what charge did you store it at all Winter?

    In a heated garage...both the scooter and the charger.

    Comment


    • HIGHVOLTAGE
      HIGHVOLTAGE commented
      Editing a comment
      And at what charge level? Generally speaking you should email support@lunacycle.com for this but be prepared to be asked these same questions so have your answers ready. It's good to have an understanding of the situation and to be able to explain clearly to us what happened and what didn't happen. Do not jump to any conclusions about what's wrong. It could either be the battery, or the charger, or the adaptor/wiring between the charger & battery. If you don't store these batteries correctly for long periods, issues will often start arising. I generally like to turn my bike on every 30 days if it hasn't been touched just to make sure the BMS and battery is still functioning.
      Last edited by HIGHVOLTAGE; 03-26-2019, 06:25 PM.

    I replaced the clutch on the BBSHD and greased that area with Mobile 28. Seemed to cure the problem. Now the BBSHD has a noisy gear/grinding noise after less than 150 miles. A forum search suggested that I shim the main drive shaft with Locktite 641 because the noise is caused by the shaft being worn in the main bearing. Is that still the recommendation?

    Comment


    • HIGHVOLTAGE
      HIGHVOLTAGE commented
      Editing a comment
      I'd open it up and check the shaft to be sure. You can run the BBSHD without the main steel gear to see if the noise is coming from the core side or the main side. Also did you only grease the main side? Cause you should grease the whole thing. Not just the clutch/main gear.
      Last edited by HIGHVOLTAGE; 03-27-2019, 01:08 PM.

    • Patrick2002
      Patrick2002 commented
      Editing a comment
      Looks like I went too far. When I removed the motor core the bearing came out with the shaft. How do I remove the bearing without damaging it or the core? Or should I order a new bearing and cut the old one off?

    • HIGHVOLTAGE
      HIGHVOLTAGE commented
      Editing a comment
      I don't think it's a huge deal as long as you can fit it back in there carefully.

    Thank you. I will do that. Is there a manual for repairs like this? Youtube is badly indexed. I'm 40 miles north of Seattle and you people are the closest information source/shop I know of.

    Comment


    Hi,
    I'm thinking of ordering a GoldenPie V5 + 52V Panasonic 13.5Ah. Just wondering if there's a dashboard/display that's compatible with it? Also wondering if there's a simple way to power lights via this battery or controller?
    Thanks! It's for my first build ever.. been thinking of doing this for like 3 years- it's time to make it happen :)

    Comment


    • markcb
      markcb commented
      Editing a comment
      Awesome, thanks HIGHVOLTAGE

    • Tommycat
      Tommycat commented
      Editing a comment
      Hi Markcb!

      The Magic Pie 5 has a dedicated display called the BAC-601. It is easily plug and play with the lower harness 5 pin HIGO connector. Or you could get a Bluetooth dongle which plugs in the same place so it's ether or. And connects to an Android device, and more recently an IOS device tho it still has a few bugs... :-( SEE...

      https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...ble-extensions

      Don't be fooled by the pic in the thread, as it is a custom install. Normally just mounted on the front handle bars. What you may not like is that the display is calibrated for a 48 volt battery. Possibly a lead acid one at that. and as such not very accurate. Hence the Bayite meter mounted below it.

      The kit I received from Luna (1.5 years approx.) has a lighting switch right on the throttle assembly. That provides power (full battery) to dead ended wires on the upper harness. But be aware, the wires in the harness are not very big and as such can not handle much amp draw!

      See my build thread at...

      https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...huffy-parkside

      to see the fun I've been having! And welcome to the magical world of the Pie. :-)

      Any particular questions please post in the Golden Magic Pie section further down the front page.


      Regards,
      T.C.

    • markcb
      markcb commented
      Editing a comment
      Awesome Tommycat- thank you!

    Hi - Will any of the 60v or 72v soft packs be back in stock any time soon?

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      I think so, they were in production weeks ago so probably a few weeks.

    Good afternoon, i just receive my new sur ron , the problem, the battery dosent seems to charge , i kept in plugged on the wall for 6 h and the light still blink ( red and green) , the screen on the battery never started up , nothing start up.

    Comment


    • HIGHVOLTAGE
      HIGHVOLTAGE commented
      Editing a comment
      I would email support@lunacycle.com re: Seb and he'll back to you on Monday. Make sure to include your order # for reference and be as descriptive as possible.

    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      In the meantime you may want to try the force charging procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aDH9c99ISCc

    • jeanphilippe
      jeanphilippe commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks for the reply, i contactedthem by email , i tried the the force charging a couple of time it didnt worked.

    Is it possible wire the 3000K Cyclone to turn CCW? Can you just swap the phase wires and the hall sensor wires? You'd also have to flip the freewheel, right? Thanks

    Comment


    • Tommycat
      Tommycat commented
      Editing a comment
      See...

      https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...to-run-reverse

      Electrically speaking it should have the same functionality. Only problems seem to be if an excessive advancement of the hall sensors position for timing in one direction is present.

      Just found this...

      "Using the reverse function :

      if you short out the 2 pin of the reverse connector it will make the motor turn CCW but at a very low RPM.

      So if your plan is to run the cyclone on the left side and make it turn CCW, it would be better to swap the phase wires (blue / yellow) and the hall sensor wires (green / blue) this would give you the full power in reverse. "

      From Paxtana's thread...

      https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...ng-the-cyclone

      Hey, it's still early there... ;-)

      Can you just flip a freewheel? That needs more looked into.
      Last edited by Tommycat; 03-30-2019, 05:59 AM.

    • AlanKilian
      AlanKilian commented
      Editing a comment
      You can turn the freewheel around on the Cyclone 7500, so I bet you can turn it around on the 3000.

    • AlanKilian
      AlanKilian commented
      Editing a comment
      Here's my Cyclone 7500 on an old Tomos Targa
      https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...zd1dUN_iaG0r4Y

    I own an HP Velotechnik Scorpion Pedelec with a 400 watt motor and a 36v 636 wh battery. The battery gives me about a 65 mile range, short of what I need for a century. I’d like to avoid buying another battery from HP. I think I can buy a supplemental battery, but need to find the appropriate connector. The connector is an RoPD, which Luna lists, but says is not available. Am I going about this correctly and what suggestions do you have for proceeding?

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      Might make more sense to change all connectors to something readily available, including the connector on the original battery.
      Last edited by HIGHVOLTAGE; 03-30-2019, 09:54 AM.

    • HIGHVOLTAGE
      HIGHVOLTAGE commented
      Editing a comment
      Yes, I agree with Paxtana. Switch everything over to XT90's and you won't have this issue ever again.

    for 100mm On One Fatty bike. The frame is in the way so 100mm doesn't work because the threads don't reach the end. That's what other people are saying. Should I order 120mm ? Even if 100mm fits it is going to be ok to order 120mm?

    Comment


    • HIGHVOLTAGE
      HIGHVOLTAGE commented
      Editing a comment
      You'll need the 120mm size with spacers on the drive side. This is a fairly common issue but unfortunately there ends up being no way to really tell until you put that motor in to see if it bangs against the fame.

      If the 100mm is still new, just email support@lunacycle.com with your order # for reference and request an size exchange

    • pure_mahem
      pure_mahem commented
      Editing a comment
      Just installed a 120mm on a Motobecane Boris Brut Fatbike. I ended up putting 1 10mm spacer on the drive side. Using a bafang Stabilizer bracket on non drive side and then placing another 10mm spacer followed by the big nut and lockring. I had to bend the stabilizer a bit and had to also make 2 spacers for the motor mounts about half the length of the ones that come with the BBSHD. I ended up with a better chain line and pedals ended up being better centered. I would of encountered the same issue with the 100mm. You may also need t add a couple washers to your motor mount bolts. of course your spacers will probably be different. But hope this gives you and idea of what can be done.
      https://electricbike.com/forum/filed...522&type=thumb
      https://electricbike.com/forum/filed...523&type=thumb

    Hello everyone, i have a dead cyclone3000 with a 40amp standard controller and thumb throttle with ignition key, and a 48v 13s5p battery. when i turn the key, i get a voltage read of 52v but when i turn the throttle the motor does nor react its dead silent, i changed the battery and the thumb throttle assembly with other parts in sure working order, still same problem same reaction the motor does not spin, please Help do i have blown controller ? or blown motor? blown hall sensors ? (If it has any bearying thoard a solution i measured the controller -- motor hall sensor wiring ground + yellow ground + blue ground + green all to be a constant 2.4 volt reading when the controller is linked to battery and motor and thumb throttle assembly) Please advise and Thank you.

    Comment


    • AlanKilian
      AlanKilian commented
      Editing a comment
      2.5 Volts doesn't sound right for the sensor readings.
      They should be at either close to 0 volts or close to 5 volts and should change as you rotate the motor shaft by hand.
      Check to see if you are getting 5 Volts to the sensor supply wire.

    i did this test and the controller gives a constant 2,4 volt read to sensor wires ground to blue green and yellow if i spin the rotor it does not change the read it stays at 2.4v, i did the test with battery and motor and controller and throttle assembly only and with the power turned on and with ignition button on ......i still do not now if the problem is the motor or the controller. i all so did a diode test with voltmeter to the motor's sensor wires Gnd+B Gnd+G and Gnd+Y with everything disconnected, the volt meter did not beep but gave a value of little under 800 to all three sensor wires

    Comment


    • AlanKilian
      AlanKilian commented
      Editing a comment
      Do you have the controller plugged in to the motor sensor cable when you are reading the voltages?

    Hello I have ordered a Luna wolf 30q from you guys and after install realized this pack does not have a lock/key shut off system. Is this a common concern and what are my options when leaving it locked up in public? thanks Sean

    Comment


    • HIGHVOLTAGE
      HIGHVOLTAGE commented
      Editing a comment
      The keys on the other packs are just a placebo. You can apply enough side force to literally break it off the screws so the lock effectively does nothing and is just there to make you think your battery is safe. Take your battery with your in a backpack. Or use the ottolock but....even then. Start doing research on bike theft and you'll see that there's really nothing you can do except to make your bike look unappealing to a thief. Home Depot just has too many specialised tools that run off small battery packs now. Most of them will cut through a bike lock easily.

    I own an HP Velotechnik Scorpion Pedelec with a 400 watt motor and a 36v 636 wh battery. I’d like to buy a supplemental battery, but need to find (or build) one with the appropriate connector. The connector is an RoPD, which Luna lists, but says is not available at this time. Can you give some idea as to when the RoPD connectors will be available?

    Comment


    HIGHVOLTAGE: Thanks for the link. In order to swap connectors, I would have to open the battery and perform some internal surgery. I’m not at all comfortable with that. What would you think of splicing standard connectors into the cable that currently runs from the load into the HP battery. That way when it comes time to swap batteries, I unplug from the HP and plug into the fresh battery?

    Comment


    • HIGHVOLTAGE
      HIGHVOLTAGE commented
      Editing a comment
      Do not do that at all. Usually that bypasses the BMS and you could risk overcharging your battery. It would be safer to just do internal surgery tbh. You might be overthinking it but if you can open up the case, the charge port should be hooked up by 2 wires, red & black, you can just cut those off and splice in some XT60 connectors and have it stick outside the pack.
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