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[melechmet@yahoo.com]

Hello, I own a Luna Folding Ebike. Everything's been going well on my daily 20m commute until yesterday- the right pedal started to wobble. On removing it. I found it was off axis and while the pedal itself seems fine the Crank threading looks a bit damaged. How do I purchase a spare crank? Or set? Not sure if it's aluminum, if there is a chrome steel version I'd prefer that.

Thanks,
Alex

[melechmet@yahoo.com]

Thanks you!

[melechmet@yahoo.com]

High Voltage, for the Lekkie set .... for the folding bike would it be: 160mm or 170mm?

[paxtana]

Generally you want the shortest length for the cranks, unless you have good reason to go longer. Short length means you can turn the cranks faster which will help pedal cadence match optimal motor rpm

[fordy]

Hello
I would like to know if at the bracket/holder for the cyclone,Luna Cyclone 3D Cyclone Mounting System, is enough material to mill down the non driving side that it fits a 68mm BB without the spacers (5mm). I know that I would have to cut and reweld the steel bracket as well. With certain torque sensors there's not all to much thread and its even made from plastic. Will stay rigid enough? I would mind if i had to place an additional nut behind to enhance the thread length. (btw, do you manufacture the parts in the metric system? M6 screws?)
Thank you.

[paxtana]

I do not believe this would be possible, but it is not altogether clear what you are describing so I could be wrong.

[fordy]

Hi paxtana

I try to describe my question more precise.
As the mounting system fits both BB widths, 68mm and 72mm, I assume that the two spacer rings are needed for the 68mm BB, correct?
As my NCTE torque sensor doesn't have all too long threads on the caps/end parts I don't want to use the spacers. That way I can screw them in farther and the support of the mounting system will be better as well as longevity. This would require to cut the bracket (sheet metal) in half and weld it back together with an inner opening of 68mm, that's clear. But the aluminium base mounted to the cyclone needs to be machined down to 68mm width as well. That can only happen on the non drive side, as otherwise the chain line from the Cyclone to the Spindle would be off. That leads to my question if on the aluminium base is enough wall thickness, at the position where its bolted together with the sheet metal bracket, to machine off the required 5mm and still have sufficient material left?

My second question about the parts, are the threads in metrical system, like M6, or Imperial?

Thanks

[RFHolland]

HIGHVOLTAGE: Not sure we are communicating here. I’m suggesting tapping into the line on the bike that leads to the motor. The tap would lead to XT60 connector that I could plug into an auxiliary battery (disconnecting the main battery first, of course). I would charge the auxiliary battery with its own recharger, the main battery with its charger. Attached is a diagram of what I’m proposing. Your thoughts are appreciated.

[HIGHVOLTAGE]

Unless both batteries were the exact same and had the same lifespan/cycle rate. This would not work unfortunately.

[paxtana]

In theory you could put a diode on the parallel circuit to prevent current flowing backwards into the other battery.. Recently someone found a cheap diode that does the job. https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...-the-same-time

Here is more information https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...d-li-ion-packs

[RamboPat]

If I were to buy a used BBS02 motor, would there be any way for me to tell how many miles are on it? I believe this data is stored in the display and if I were to connect a new one it would read 0 miles. Any work around for this?

Thank you

[HIGHVOLTAGE]

Nope, but you can open it up and check the gears. If they're in good condition than you're good to go. You don't need to worry about miles if the components inside look good. And if they don't, you can always replace them fairly cheaply anyways.

[RamboPat]

HIGHVOLTAGE thanks for the reply. The bikes we sell use the BBS02 and BBSHD and it recently came to light to sales reps and customers that these use a nylon gear, which worries them and has them look for bikes with different motors. My thought was to do a video of opening one up and showing that the nylon gear is still in good condition after so many miles. Although I won't be able to be specific with the miles, I think showing one from a used motor would still do some good. The few I have opened so far have their nylon gears in great condition.

[fordy]

Hi
Any Info on my question? #2508
Thanks

[HIGHVOLTAGE]

Sorry fordy, I don't have much experience with that. Maybe paxtana will chime in when he sees it.

[RFHolland]

HIGHVOLTAGE: Why would there need to be any relationship between the batteries other than their ability to supply sufficient amperage at 36 volts? They would not be hooked up to the motor at the same time. When the main battery is near exhaustion, it is disconnected and the auxiliary battery is connected.

[HIGHVOLTAGE]

Then yeah, as long as neither are used together. You're fine.

[pure_mahem]

You would want to be careful you dont accidentally have them connected at the same time or the will try to instantly equalize and you dont want that.

[BK Xray]

I use something similar to this (but with XT90s) as we have a big heavy tandem trike and ride long distances. What I also did is to make a blank plug from another XT90 to plug into the one I am not using. That serves as a reminder to not plug into one when the other is connected.

[melechmet@yahoo.com]

• High Voltage, for the Lekkie crank set .... for the folding bike would it be: 160mm or 170mm?

[HIGHVOLTAGE]

Either will work, the default crank arms are 170mm but if you want shorter, go with 160mm. When you're riding, do you ever feel like the cranks get close to the ground? If so, then 160mm will negate that a bit more.

[melechmet@yahoo.com]

thank you again

[keepergnt]

Yes i have the motor plugged in the controller when im reading these voltages WHY?

[keepergnt]

the hole thing was working fine today and the next it was dead i never changed anything other than unplugging and charging the battery

[ledgeinair]

Hello, I just got my LUNA APOLLO, Love it, EXCEPT for ONE thing. I put 150 miles on it this weekend, I am only getting about 25 miles on battery on ECO MODE 1-2, And only using about 10 % throttle. What gives??? On the ad it says "A TRUE 40 MILES & MORE WITH PEDAL ASST" Which I am NOT getting. And if I charge to 80%, Its even less.. Thanks

[HIGHVOLTAGE]

Your range can be heavily based off a lot of different factors. When a product says "40 miles of range", it usually means you can achieve this under specific conditions like flat ground, minimal wind/weight, fully charged battery & minimal acceleration. 25 miles is still a bit low though for the Apollo. You sure the battery was fully charged and balanced out before you went on your ride?

https://electricbike.com/forum/forum/knowledge-base/batteries-aa/20988-faq-charging-batteries

Are you riding aggressively? How much stopping & accelerating are you doing? Is there a lot of hills?

Pick up a multi-meter and measure your batteries voltage charge a couple hours after you've fully charged it. If it says 58.8v or close, it is likely something else that is causing your range reduction. If it's much lower, it could be a charger issue or a BMS issue.

Also, please note that battery range issues can often be super difficult to troubleshoot. My battery has a range of 30miles but it practically only lasts like 15miles because of the way I ride and the terrain I ride in. So try to be as descriptive and open minded as possible here in regards to figuring out why you're getting low range as it's not always related to the battery/motor.

Also, you said you clocked 150miles on it over the weekend. Were you keeping track of your charge/range during then too? If so, how much range did you get off a full charge and was it under the same terrain/conditions?

[paxtana]

Another consideration is what speed you were riding at, and what gear you had it in. This will operate most efficiently when the bike is in lower gears because the motor can spin at a higher rpm. Similarly you also see more efficiency at lower speeds due to less wind resistance.

It should also be noted that this is programmed for 2000w peak. It is fully programmable and you can dial that down for much more range if desired. The link below was written for bbsxx but the same software also works for the Ultra and allows you to adjust the max current setting.

https://electricbike.com/forum/forum/builds/custom-ebike-motor-programming/bbshd-programming/43287-basics-of-programming-bbs02-and-bbshd-mid-drives

For comparison here are typical range estimates for hot rod BBSHD, which is around 1300w peak. In this discussion we are looking at range for a 13.5ah shark. By comparison Apollo has 21ah, a ~55% capacity increase.

Let's say we are looking at a BBSHD mid-drive kit with hot rod settings. That is going to use about 30wh/mi, on average if you are hammering it full throttle the whole way. Now let's say you have a 52v 13.5AH GA shark pack. This is the de facto standard battery pack for most builds. It has about 700 WH. So that's going to do about 23.3 miles at full throttle, throttle only no pedal assist. With a medium level of pedal assist and a bit slower speed, you might have double that range. If you dial down the current limit in the configuration you can also highly increase this setting. If you use BBS02 that's more like 26wh/mi since is has a bit less max current so you can adjust the calculations accordingly.

If you are asking about Luna prebuilt BBSHD bikes they have an optional 750 W street legal programming setting, with that same shark pack you would be getting 30 miles at full throttle only, again doubling that if you are using a reasonable amount of pedal assist. All BBSHD and BBS02 motors are fully programmable for any level output you want if you wish to further increase your range.

Going off of the figures above if you increase capacity 55% and kept it at same peak as hotrod BBSHD this would provide ~36.1 miles of range going full throttle at the top speed on flat land. These figures could be further increased at a more relaxed speed. Generally your power output doubles for every 10mph of speed due to wind resistance, and the more power you use the faster you use it up.

[ledgeinair]

Bike path, Flat ground, No wind, I only weigh 145lbs.. Yes I was keeping track of my charges. Like I said, FULL CHARGE, Riding on On ECO MODE 1 sometimes 2 , Hardley any THROTTLE, Maybe 10%. NOT riding aggressive @ all. And still getting only 25 miles, Not a lot of accelerating

[HIGHVOLTAGE]

What voltage was the battery at when it was fully charged though? Did you measure it and check to see if you reached 58.8v before pulling it off the charger? Also it's good to pick up a multi-meter and manually check your voltage to compare it to the chargers voltage just in-case it's off sync, or else you may think you're at full charge but really you're near half or empty.

You also didn't mention whether the battery was balanced or not. Especially since it's a new battery. They typically have to be balanced and broken into before you can get the full range out of your pack. Check the link I gave you in the last post for instructions on how to do this.

And again, you said you got 150miles out of it over the weekend? Were you getting full range during the weekend?

[ledgeinair]

Battery was charged to 100% @ 58.8v. & YES the battery was balanced. only getting 22-25 miles per full charge

[HIGHVOLTAGE]

Okay and when you pulled it off the charger fully charged and allowed it to sit a couple hours, did the voltage read the same 58.8v? And were you reading that voltage off the charger/display or a multi-meter? The reason I'm asking is because the charger will show 58.8v by default if it's not charging the battery, meaning you could be confusing a full charge for a faulty charger if you're only getting that reading off the charger's display.

Also check @paxtana's recent response. You're actually pretty close to the max range considering the setup & possibly your terrain/riding. It's hard to say at this point because we're still trying to get more information such as if a multi-meter was used, or what the exact charge level of the battery started at.

I mean, if it's 58.8v at full charged even after a few hours of sitting, that kind of eliminates the battery since it would imply that all cells are fully charged and functional. So we'd have to look into other areas for the reason in this range reduction.

And again, please answer all my questions. I asked if you got 150miles out of it over the weekend? Were you getting full range during the weekend? Like did this issue just suddenly occur randomly after getting the advertised 40+miles of range? Or do you not know? It's critical have this information and more because it helps us understand the situation fully. This is a troubleshooting thread so you're going to get asked a lot of questions to help us figure out what's going on.

[ledgeinair]

reading it off the Bafang display.

[HIGHVOLTAGE]

Hey, I'd appreciate it if you could read my entire post and answer the other question I asked. Giving me small answers like that just forces me to repeat myself and this whole thing just ends up taking longer than it should. So you're getting 58.8v off the display? That's a pretty good indication that your battery has a full charge to it and kind of eliminates it as a potential issue here.

This means we have to look towards your riding/terrain. Did you read paxtana comment on the last page? What gear are you riding in when you're cruising around? What kind of top speed were you hitting when you were riding on this bike path?

[djp1987]

ok i hope this is the right place to ask this since it is a technical question. anyway:
what gauge wire is used on the bafang hub motor compatible e-brake sensors?
this info is needed for a project i am wanting to do to set up a brake light

[paxtana]

We don't sell Bafang hubmotor compatible ebrakes unfortunately, sorry.. The ones that we do sell are for BBSxx. Not too sure what size the wire is inside of the HIGO wiring but most likely very thin, like 24ga

[djp1987]

thanks. i assume they use the same size wiring... might still work for me.
thanks again

[tenmile]

Hi there - I saw the current sale on the BBSHD 120mm kit. I would be using this on a Specialized Stumpjumper Comp 29 hardtail frame, which has a standard BB in the 68-72mm range. I've read on your site that spacers can be added to the kit to make it fit, but is this a bad idea? Am I setting myself up for issues down the road, or can it be made to work as successful as the right sized kit?

[paxtana]

120 in a standard size shell? No, I don't think that would be a very suitable experience. You can read this page for notes on using 100mm with standard shell. All the issues described in this page would be even worse with 120. https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...considerations

[dev]

Hey, Gary's advice is probably the most authoritative.
But for what it's worth, I mounted a 120mm on a bike with ~80mm BB, and was very happy with the results (see here: https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...ons-and-photos)

The reason why it worked is that I ended up needing to insert considerable spacers on the right side of the bike, so with a 120mm axle I got the pedals to be just about centered when comparing the left and right side.

In any case, check my comments and pictures in that thread and see if it helps.