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    I left two batteries out in the freezing cold garage last winter. Both were partially charged. One was a 48V 10A H Life4Po in a case (yours) and another was a shrink- wrapped 48V 20AH Lithium Manganese from another company. After being charged, both only ran for 7 miles. When they ran out and I put them on the charger, they still read 51V out of a total of 54.6V!!!

    What the heck? Did I ruin them by leaving in the cold or is there some connection not being made? Could they be salvageable? How can they still have voltage in them but not work? Thanks in Advance.

    Comment


    I don't think I explained correctly. The batteries were in the cold for about three months. They were warmed up several weeks before I charged them or used them. Now I am only getting 7 miles out of the batteries but it appears by the volts that they still have charge. They are at 51 in a 54.6 charger, but are acting like they are dead.I dont understand the link you sent me as Voltage sag relates to frozen batteries, no? These were previously frozen but warmed up for weeks and I am wondering if the freezing and the length of time sitting idle adversely affected them. Could these possibly be salvageable? Thank you so much for answering so quickly though!
    Last edited by Marykays1; 04-26-2019, 03:13 PM.

    Comment


    • HIGHVOLTAGE
      HIGHVOLTAGE commented
      Editing a comment
      > I am wondering if the freezing and the length of time sitting idle adversely affected them

      Most likely. You can verify this by opening it up and testing the BMS cell banks
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Jkm0tfihe0

      For reference, I would never leave anything E-bike related in frozen weather for 3+ months. Especially the battery. It's not like a car where you can just park it in a dry spot and leave it for a few years under a tree. Things rust, corrode, cool down, and heat up which can form moisture even inside sealed things and cause shorts, And you should be regularly checking on it every month or so to make sure it's still working and outputting power just to be sure. A simple load balance once a month even when not in use can be helpful in maintaining a healthy battery.
      Last edited by HIGHVOLTAGE; 04-26-2019, 04:57 PM.

    I have a 1000w conversion kit on a Yuba Boda Boda All Terrain that has worked great for three years. The controller and display just stopped turning on via the handle power switch. Connectors seem fine. Battery looks charged. Any guidance? Is there a shop near Berkeley that can diagnose and repair?
    Last edited by snibbe; 04-26-2019, 03:39 PM.

    Comment


    • HIGHVOLTAGE
      HIGHVOLTAGE commented
      Editing a comment
      Could be a lot of reasons. Probably a blown controller though as that is like the most common issue with Hub Motors. What does the batteries voltage read when you check it with a multi-meter? Don't bother using that little light indicator as it's not going to give you any useful information.

      If you're not interested in troubleshooting yourself, you can try these links:

      https://electricbikefriendlyshops.com/
      https://www.reddit.com/r/ebikes/wiki...friendly_shops
      Last edited by HIGHVOLTAGE; 04-26-2019, 07:35 PM.

    • Marykays1
      Marykays1 commented
      Editing a comment
      Thank you, High Voltage. I am going to have my husband watch the videos and give them a try. But I already have some new batteres picked out! Will prob get your 48V 17.5AH and 2- Shark48V 13.5's. I have to say, I have searched all over the web for better deals. Yes, I found better deals, but they were all heavier in weight than Luna Cycles, so will probably be getting yours if/when my current ones fail the test. And no, I will never leave my batteries out in the cold again over the winter! Thank again.
      Last edited by Marykays1; 04-29-2019, 09:51 AM.

    I purchased a shark48v 13.5 AH battery. When I put it on the charger, the charge light stays green. when I press the battery level button on the shark case while it's on the charger, all the green and the red light come on. When I disconnect the battery from the charger and press the level button, no lights come on, and when I hook the battery up to the system, nothing happens. I measured the voltage at the connectors where the batter connects into the loom and I have zero voltage. Is there a switch somewhere on the battery I can't find?

    Comment


    • HIGHVOLTAGE
      HIGHVOLTAGE commented
      Editing a comment
      Check the voltage on the pins underneath the pack between the cradle and the pack itself. Does it read the same zero voltage?

    Hello, I have a Ecotric Fat Tire and I’m looking to upgrade to a 52v battery. It looks like the dolphin pack would be the closest to “plug and play” that I can get. How much installation/wiring would this consist of?

    Comment


    • HIGHVOLTAGE
      HIGHVOLTAGE commented
      Editing a comment
      From what it looks like on the website, they use the same Dolphin pack. So it should be the exact same on all accounts. However you might wanna check with the company that makes the bike to see whether their controller will accept 52v or not.

    Gonna build DIY ebike for long rides on 25-30 kmph. Nuvinci N380 automatic variator IGH will be my choice.
    Gonna use BBS02B motor, but one my friend told me that this engine is for 50 kmph, not for 25-30.
    Can I have more torque/less speed by choosing right ratio between engine and IGH? I'm talking about size of wheels on motor and main input IGH wheel in belt drive?

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      Smaller wheels do optimize for more torque, though generally most folks just go with a smaller chainring

    When I bring up the bbshd listing all three bb lengths appear momentarily then the 68-73 MM option disappears. Is this NLA? out of stock? Will it be available?

    Comment


    • HIGHVOLTAGE
      HIGHVOLTAGE commented
      Editing a comment
      Out of stock, just ran out very recently so could be a few weeks or so till it's re-stocked.

    Is the most energy efficient gear to travel a given speed the lowest gear that allows you to travel that speed at max throttle?

    Also, is the 2500 w ludicrous motor more energy efficient than a standard 1000 w luna cycle motor when traveling the same speed / and in the proper gear for that speed?

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      Lowest gear would be more efficient. Yes that's the lowest speed but more importantly it is the gear that lets the motor to spin at its highest RPM.

      Standard controller would be more efficient. Unless you dial down the current in the controller to same level as standard, then it would be same

    How do you secure your Luna battery and center console from theft? The battery in particular is worth a lot of money and can just be removed with Velcro and a magnet so it seems a real target, but I can't think of a good wat to secure it

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      See the part on how it is locked in the wolf knowledge base. Basically locks go through those metal rails on underside of battery

    • pebble
      pebble commented
      Editing a comment
      The slots in the rails underneath my battery are only 3 mm wide, not enough to put even the thinnest cable lock through...I could tie some heavy fishing wire through there but that wouldn't stop anyone. I looked all through the Lunacycle Knowledge Base and could not find any threads on how to lock it up.

    • pure_mahem
      pure_mahem commented
      Editing a comment
      They show a Otto Lock being used but before ponying up for one of those locks I suggest you watch the Lock Picking Lawyer and Bosnia Bill youtube videos on it. You'd get more security using a large heavy duty zip tie unless they've changed something. Your best bet with a battery is to remove it and take it with you.

    Hi Luna, I bought a clyclone 3000 watt kit from you a couple years ago, now its acting a bit weird, sometimes its hardish to turn the motor (when I am only peddaling) sometimes its normal. This switch back and forth happens at random intervals, sometimes a minute or less, other times for 20-30 minutes before it switchs one way or the other. I also get a bit of a strange sound from the motor I think the gearbox is going bad. When it gets hard to turn I took the chain off to see how hard it was to turn with my fingers, and I could barely budge it. When the chain is on, my legs have the strength to turn the motor over, but its as tough as say going up a moderate hill, even though I am on a flat stretch. To be clear I have barely ridden it since this started happening, I hope this is an easy fix!??!

    Comment


    • sparky9
      sparky9 commented
      Editing a comment
      I put a brand new BB on my ebike, I have ordered a new chainring from you guys last week, Im hoping it will arrive soon! :) But I think the problem is with the motor system as like I said I took the chain off the motor freewheel and could barely move the freewheel of the motor. So its like its being exceptionally sticky. Or something in the gearbox is loose or something. This is my best guess. Any ideas? If I need to order a new gearbox can I get one from you guys?

      Mike

    • sparky9
      sparky9 commented
      Editing a comment
      So, after some closer looking I have determined that the reason why its harder to pedal sometimes and not others is the motor freewheel sometimes sticks, that is while I am pedaling I am also turning the gearbox and motor. I am not sure why this is happening, I am going to try WD40ing it to see if it is just sticky and needs to be loosened up. Is it a bad thing that sometimes I push the motor over? will it harm it?

    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      The chainring has a freewheel mechanism in it on cyclone. Sounds like this is failing so the chainring probably needs replaced

    Hi. We are having a problem with our BBS02 and / or battery.

    Two rides ago the motor was "shuddering" when using the throttle and seemed to be OK when peddling on level 1/2 assist. It was only a super short ride of about 5 minutes so never got it into higher power levels. When the motor was working everything seemed to be working well.

    Then last time we tried to take the bike out the battery died in about 10 pedal strokes. My wife was riding and she said she saw it go down from 100 -90-80-70 etc almost at 10% per pedal stroke and then the whole system died.

    We tried charging the battery and I tested the voltage on the battery pack and it was bouncing around with my meter alot, but 55-56 V (52 Volt nominal battery), but I was also seeing voltages in the 60s and higher, but nothing stable (maybe the cheap meter wasn't giving great readings). I checked the output of the charger and it is a steady 55V with no load connected.

    When I put the battery back on the bike I only get a flicker of light on the screen and see the Luna log for 1/4 second.

    Any input?

    Thanks in advance.

    Comment


    • HIGHVOLTAGE
      HIGHVOLTAGE commented
      Editing a comment
      There's no way it should jump into the high 60's like that. Try a different multi-meter. Check your plugs between the battery & the motor and see if they've come loose during your ride which can cause arcing on the connectors and stuttering in your ride.

      Your charger shouldn't be outputting 55v either which is more reason you should double check your multi-meter.

      Stuttering is usually caused by few things. Low battery or bad connection between battery & motor, or in some rare cases, bad connection inside the battery.
      Last edited by HIGHVOLTAGE; 05-01-2019, 09:05 AM.

    Hello Luna Team!

    I purchased one of the first Sur-Ron's from the first batch of 20....when they were first released. It has been a great way for me to zip around my property. I love it. This last winter, I accidentally let the battery completely die. I watched a couple videos online, explaining how to jump start the battery.....but unfortunately, my charger is nothing like the one in the video. I tried using the method outlined in the video, but obviously....my charger doesn't function the same way. I've included a pic of my charger. Any tips on how to jump start my battery, using this charger? Thank you in advance!

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      Hmm not too sure, that doesn't even look like the revision 1 controller. 1 had a sort of switch on the side you flipped if I remember correctly, and needed to be done a certain way. This, not so much. Probably should email support as this might require some other strategy, like maybe waking it up with some other power source putting out 67vdc just to wake up the bms. Hopefully that would work to wake it up.

    hello,


    how do i reset the dpc 18uart to factory settings, including odometer setting.


    i installed this on my new bbs02 and it is still showing the odometer from my first conversion.

    I am running a new battery as well as mid drive....

    i was under the impression the odometer is stored in the controller ?

    i suppose it is in the actual display, is there a battery inside?

    Comment


    Hey, I just finished building my ebike but when I pull the battery off of the charger, I get error code 07H. How do I fix this or discharge the battery to get it lower volts to unlock the motor? I read that it should have a cut off at 60v?

    I have BBSHD with a DPC-14 display, EM3EV 52V 25.7Ah High-Energy Pack With 60A Smart BMS (14S9P-PF), and a 58.8v 5a charged set to 90% charge.

    My display reads 58.6V, and my battery reads 58.2v.

    Comment


    • HIGHVOLTAGE
      HIGHVOLTAGE commented
      Editing a comment
      Nope, we caught wind of this issue early at Luna after a report and re-flashed all our controllers using proprietary vendor Bafang software the moment cases started coming up. You'll need the vendor you originally bought it from to help you out. I'm really surprised Em3ev hasn't resolved this issue yet tbh. We had this resolved weeks ago. :\
      Last edited by HIGHVOLTAGE; 05-03-2019, 07:30 PM.

    • AA-Battery
      AA-Battery commented
      Editing a comment
      That’s a bummer. I actually just heard back from EM and they offered to pay for the shipping to send the controller to California to have it reprogrammed, as it’s programmed for 13s batteries instead of 14s. Apparantly they only just caught wind of it. And if you guys only noticed it a few weeks ago, then that’s probably why. I bought the motor on April 1 (oh my god what are the odds!?) and my first couple test drives were fine with no problems. Although I got the error my second to last drive after charging, it somehow resolved itself come morning. This time I’ve had the error for a few days. Is there any way I can discharge my battery by a few bolts so that it isn’t left fully charged for a while? (Also so that I can ride it one last time before I ship the controller and have to wait who knows how long haha)
      Last edited by AA-Battery; 05-03-2019, 09:00 PM.

    • Tommycat
      Tommycat commented
      Editing a comment
      Possible discharge suggestions...

      https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...any-suggestion

    Built a similar battery to the Luna mighty mini for my new work commuter as i was struggling to find a pack to fit my frame, as i like in the UK Luna ain't that accessible . all good and well but my 60v controller had other ideas. after doing some reading i found it is a faulty batch from Bafang. anyone found a source of firmware or a fix to this. don't have a cable but i'm from a quadcopter background and a ftdi is not new to me.
    thank you in advance any help appreciated.

    Comment


    • HIGHVOLTAGE
      HIGHVOLTAGE commented
      Editing a comment
      Check the post above this one. Was this purchased from Luna? If so, contact them, if not, contact your original seller. Unfortunately there is no firmware that you can get access to that is going to fix this issue
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