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    Has anyone cold weather tested mid-drives? When I had a two mile commute I rode to thirty below Fahrenheit on a standard MTB. I took a better job and my commute is 15 miles now on snowmobile/4wheeler paths with my surly big fat dummy.(6 hour round trip after a fresh snow,3 1/2 hours on a good trail day) I don’t have the time or energy to do that unassisted on a daily basis. I know that the cyclone is supposedly loud because it has metal gears and that seems like it would benefit my wants depending on what else is going on in there. I also intend to install a front hub motor to help me through loose snow.

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      Should work fine in cold weather. I would recommend some additional waterproofing if using in deep snow. This is described in knowledge base

    So I have a Wolf Pack V2 52v on its way. I plan to solder an XT90S on the BBSHD so I can plug it in. Do I need to unplug the battery from the motor everytime I charge it or can i just attach the charger and let it go while it's still attached to the motor? I have one of the advanced chargers coming as well. It's fine either way I just want to know so I dont fry or melt something do to my inexperience.

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      You do not need to unplug the battery from the BBSHD before charging the battery.

    I just purchased a 52v Wolf 2 pack. Can this battery be charged at 8 amps or will that trip the BMS? Thx.
    Last edited by charlesdblack; 05-06-2019, 12:13 PM.

    Comment


    • HIGHVOLTAGE
      HIGHVOLTAGE commented
      Editing a comment
      I would not charge at 8 amps or else you may cause slow damage to your cells. 5 amps is the max you should be charging at for this pack specifically. That being said, I don't think there's a BMS limitation.
      Last edited by HIGHVOLTAGE; 05-06-2019, 04:17 PM.

    I am unable to charge my Apex/Ludicrous with the 300W Luna Advanced Charger. I checked the charger output with my VOM and it reads 59V. After about 12 hours straight charge time the reading from the charging port on the bike is about 32.5V. This can't be good. I am hoping there is something we can do at your shop to revive the battery's cells.

    I am about 40 minutes away.

    Thanks,
    George

    Comment




    Will do, thank you.

    Comment


      Hello,

      I see that in addition to shipping that there is a pick up in store option. Do you have a list of store locations?

      Comment


      • HIGHVOLTAGE
        HIGHVOLTAGE commented
        Editing a comment
        There is only one location. I'd email support@lunacycle.com first though and let them know what you're ordering and when you wanna pick it up :)

        Location and hours below.

        1330 East Franklin Ave
        El Segundo CA 90245
        Hours: Open Tuesday to Thursday 11 am to 7 pm, Friday 11 am to 5 pm
        For bike pickups: limited 11 am to 4 pm if you need a hand or technical assistance.

      can i have a coupon code for the sur ron

      Comment


      I noticed there is a button for "light" that isn't connected to anything...and an extra 8fun wire not plugged into anything. Is this for a light hookup?

      I already have a DC power LED headlamp with built in DC-DC voltage converter so I'm wondering if I can just order a bafang male 3 pin connector wire and plug it in here
      Last edited by pebble; 05-08-2019, 02:00 PM.

      Comment


      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        That is an optional ebrake connector, not a light connection. Yes a couple displays have a light button or some other way to otherwise activate a light function but this depends on the controller supporting it. Our controllers have dedicated gearsensor instead of dedicated light circuit, as gearsensor ability is generally more preferable in our experience. Gearsensor cut times compared to running it off the ebrake connection is much faster.

      I purchased a 1kw setup, I think it was a BBSHD or something like that, about 3.5 years ago. It has been great. However after almost 1000 miles, I am hearing what sounds like bearing noise when I an in pedal assist and pedaling. I have replaced the pedals and that did not fix it. I have no noise when I am in throttle mode, only in pedal assist and mostly on the left side. Is there a rebuild kit available?

      Comment


      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        Probably you need to replace the clutch and bbshd steel gear.

      In an act of late-night stupidity, in one of the final steps of getting my BBSHD back on the road after a previous issue I applied dialectric grease to the pins of the display connector on the main loom with the battery accidentally on. POP! No display. I have a new harness on order thinking the problem would be contained to that but no, it appears the controller is likely fried too! I purchased my original 52V BBSHD kit from luna-mate in Aus (I'm in NZ) but don't see any listed on his site. What's the best option for replacement guys? Also, is a fused extender main harness cable available or do you know of instructions for building one? I want to design out the risk of destroying a 180AUD part from a cable short.

      Comment


      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        Dielectric grease should not be conductive. Are you sure you were not using some like lead acid battery terminal grease? Because that would be conductive. Whatever it is I would not recommend you using it on the new controller

        Last I checked we had bbshd controllers on the site, sounds like you want version b controller, but you might want to check with Luna-mate if you want confirmation what you need.

      • mp52
        mp52 commented
        Editing a comment
        I was applying it out of the tube (metal) and assume the nozzle shorted the wires. What options are available to prevent this sort of action killing a controller? Is it possible to place a fuse or circuit breaker inline? From memory either the ground or PL wire shorted.

      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        I see. Stripping the cable to add a fuse inline would probably not be ideal for several reasons. Probably best to just keep metal away from it when applying the dielectric grease.

      Hello, I am looking to add a second battery for my 2017 Rad Rover. Can you tell me which Luna Battery will fit my battery mount correctly? Thanks, Randy

      Comment


      • HIGHVOLTAGE
        HIGHVOLTAGE commented
        Editing a comment
        Unfortunately we don't carry any Dolphin packs right now for Rad Rovers :( Maybe try contacting them and seeing if they'll sell you a spare?

      Buddy bought two of the Luna kits that use the same display as early Ebike kit. Same as used with the 1000Watt direct drive now sold. I asked on chat but got nowhere.
      ANYONE know where besides Ebike kit, $132 is nuts! Why doesn’t Luna?

      Comment


      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        That particular kit is probably discontinued, I would be surprised if we restocked parts for it. Sorry.

      • Scoonie
        Scoonie commented
        Editing a comment
        Not having parts is definitely trouble. <grin> replacements from the fellow you undercut so handily are now back to massively overpriced. You were around $300 for laced wheel, controller, display, and kit . It’s $270 for just a display and controller. Trouble with a capital T

      • HIGHVOLTAGE
        HIGHVOLTAGE commented
        Editing a comment
        These motors were not very popular compared to our Mid-Drives and it was difficult to maintain replacement parts with them for warranty. It just wasn't worth the effort and profit to continue selling them.

      BBSHD Controller Fried?
      This is a follow-on question to diagnosing point of failure with my BBSHD after accidentally shorting the display cable (see here). I've since received a replacement main harness loom and tried the following:
      1. Plugged in display - powers on but shows empty battery (36.4V)
      2. Tested voltage coming out of battery from Anderson's (approx. 54V i.e. expected).
      3. Tested Ground continuity from Andersons into controller to female pin out of controller - PASS
      4. Same as 3 but Ground out of main harness loom - PASS
      5. Tried turning the motor backwards with power off. A bit of effort to start moving and some resistance while moving but can't compare to working state because don't remember doing it.
      So I'm not sure how to read this at this point. Is it possible that the controller has a fairly trivial issue that can be repaired. I think the shorted wire the is brown voltage measuring one so that would explain the dead battery read-out but I'm not getting any error codes on the display. The total mileage count is retained but I assume this is stored in the display rather than the controller.

      Is it possible I just need to replace wiring into the controller or is it likely the voltage read-out (and possibly mosfets) on the controller have been fried? If the mosfets were sound should I encounter the same resistance clockwise and anti-clockwise when spinning the spindle on the motor?

      Thanks

      Comment


      • mp52
        mp52 commented
        Editing a comment
        I've since removed the controller and am getting stable resistance readings on all phase wires from ground (approx 10K ohms) and rising resistance from positive so the mosfets all look ok. If the issue is confined to the wiring or IC responsible for voltage regulation does this usually still mean the controller is a right off? Any chance Luna could supply a replacement IC along with a new one so I can have a go at repairing this controller as a back-up?

      • mp52
        mp52 commented
        Editing a comment
        I've made continuity readings off all wire pathways on the controller and posted as a Google sheet here:
        https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

        I don't know much about electronics but from the readings it looks like there's a broken connection between the battery Ground and the Ground on the 4-pin connector in the controller (see the cell in the sheet with the red border). Does this sound correct?

      • Tommycat
        Tommycat commented
        Editing a comment
        Hi mp52,
        I commend you on your efforts! If I follow you, battery ground is present at Main Harness Connector-#8 pin ground connection. (seems reasonable as your display lights up) But in your chart, Main harness connection pin #8 is also good to PAS connection Black wire. So how could Pas ground not make it to battery ground?



        Which display do you have? By empty battery do you mean an actual display reading, or display battery bar indication?

        I find this all very interesting and would love to follow up. But I feel this discussion would be better off in the TROUBLESHOOTING section... Hope to see you open a thread there.


        Regards,
        T.C.

      I bought a new bare motor. Out of the box when connected to a fully charged battery, the display says my battery has 85% charge. I can go about 7 miles before the display says my battery is totally discharged. The battery has a push button to read the charge directly on the battery. Using this internal display on the battery, the battery still indicates 50% charge.
      I bought this motor because the previous motor broke after under 1000 miles. The previous motor properly indicates a full charge and used to go (on average) 20 miles on a single charge, before the internal gears stripped out. Also, the BBSHD motor I bought prior to that one, which also stripped out internal gears, shows full charge on the same battery. With the two motors with stripped out gears reading my battery properly, i'm sure the problem is inside this new motor.
      Anything I can do to fix this problem myself?

      Comment


      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        Well you could check that the controller was not set to some high LVC for some reason, apart from that there is no reason why it should be any different. Are you using the motor same way, making sure to downshift on inclines etc? If so then it might be a high resistance connection to the controller from the battery, or maybe a damaged cell in the battery causing excessive voltage sag

      Got my charger today and tried to charge my battery (reads 41.7v) and my charger kept clicking on and off. The leds work fine. Just when I try to charge, it clicks on and off. I have a 52v Luna charger.

      Comment


      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        This is on the mini, yes? Email support and we'll send you the adapter that disables the trickle charging function (the clicking on/off)
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