Should I get a small 52cm or medium 55cm Luna Fixed if I have a 32 inch inseam and am 5’9”? Thanks!
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Also, can you tell us what size is pictured in the photos?
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Hi, we are going to have to wait for further specs because we already boxed up and shipped the entire batch of all sizes. We are checking if we have the geometry specs around here somewhere but might have to wait until we get more in stock.
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Well, I already placed my order for a medium so hope it fits! :)
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Anyone want to buy a brand new BBSHD bare motor I just purchased from Luna? Ill sell it for $350. The only catch is, it doesnt recognize any 48 volt battery as fully charged. Having posted the problem here, they offer no solution. It has under 25 miles on it. You can run it about 7 miles before the controller cuts off the motor due to state of charge being measured as under 5%. (Even though the battery internal display shows 50%).
They tell me it is my display causing the problem. But my display is fine. This brand new motor is useless to me as my trip to and from work exceeds 7 miles.
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great. thanks. Just like to point out, when someone buys a brand new motor, it should come with all the equipment one needs to make it work like a new motor. In order to follow these directions, I need to pay 19.95 for a program cable. plus shipping and tax. I'll need a laptop.
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Sounds like you should be talking to support at Luna. The people here are just trying to offer you solutions you can try to make it work. Giving them grief because you're frustrated isn't going to solve your problems or make anyone eager to step forward to offer you a possible solution.
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I think the main issue here that you're not addressing for us is whether or not your battery is cutting out because you're on low battery and you're reading it off the % gauge and not the voltage of the battery itself. You really shouldn't be buying DIY kits if you're going to go into it with the mentality of "it should just work"
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My Luna Mini charger has started to stop charging to 100% after only a season worth of use. When measuring the output voltage of the charger I am only able to get 50V out of the charger which is suppose to be putting out 56.4V. I've tried looking around however I have not found any answers specifically. Any ideas?
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You can likely adjust it in the trimpot as described here https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...i-and-advanced
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I saw that while reading through however I am still apprehensive to try. It just seems strange to me that overnight this issue occurred and I don't want to risk completely messing something up over what could be a simple issue. Is there any reason as to why this would happen? Is this normal for these types of chargers?
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I just got my wolf battery in the mail. I am unsure why it has 2X T 90 connector ports and 2 XT 60 connector ports on the battery (4 total) . I have read through as much documentation as I can get my hands on and I don’t seem to see an answer to this question. I understand that the XT 60 connectors are for the charging and xt 90 connects to the motor. What am I missing here? Also, one of the XT 90 pigtails that came in the package has green marks on it and I’m not sure if that one Connects to the pack or the motor. I have a magic pie motor. It would be great to see some photos of how other people have set up their Wolf pack. I wasn’t able to find any myself. Thanks for the help.
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Don't want to be a pain with questions, but I was very close to ordering either this hardtail or full suspension below. But then someone said the 1-11 drivetrain (alll Deore XT parts) might give me problems with a Bafang BBSHD. Is that true?
I just don't want to spend $1,500 on a bike and then have to replace parts.
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...tain-bikes.htm
Last edited by Boondocksaints; 05-17-2019, 12:14 PM.
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Technically speaking any drive train is going to eventually give you problems when you stick an electric motor on it. None of these bikes were originally designed with the intention of being converted into an electric bike by their original manufacturer, especially a high powered one like the BBSHD. How much money you want to put into your bike will depend on how long it lasts. The more money, the higher quality components you'll get and the longer your bike will last but at that point you're basically going to be spending A LOT of money because high quality components cost a lot since they have such a small market. In some cases it is cheaper to just replace it with another cheap component until that one wears down.Last edited by HIGHVOLTAGE; 05-17-2019, 01:07 PM.
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Either of the component sets you have there on those bikes should function fine with the bbshd. If they are functioning before the install they should function just as well after. You may find when you go to replace components after they wear out though. That you don't need to spend the extra money on the better components. For instance If it were me if and when I had to replace the derailleur Id probably go with a SLX not really any need to shave the weight with the higher priced XT components and they function just as well. For Cassettes you may want to check out Sunrace Steel cassettes. My BD bike came with a Steel SRAM cassette that works wonderfully but when it wears out it will depend on price point if that's what I replace it with. The build I just did came with Deore shifters and a SLX derailleur and Tektro Draco brakes I got no complaints. There's a grade of component once you get above it seems they all function well as each other and you're only throwing money at the component to shave grams to make it lighter not really perform better. With an ebike weight really isnt an issue. If it were I'd be screwed I go 385 lbs.
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Question on preventing a BBSHD from rotating. I have a 120mm motor that I recently purchased and mounted on a steel framed Motobecane Lurch fat bike. I used spacers only on the drive side and on the non-drive made sure the grooves of the y washer are against the frame. I have the Luna wrench for the lock nut, used loctite and put as much force as I can on to tighten. That doesn't come close to preventing the motor from rotating down under its own weight and then rotating back up and clunking the frame under power.
What are the options to properly secure the motor?
Thanks,
Mark
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Bafang Stabilizer Bracket. There are 2 options I found this one worked for what I needed but I still had to pound on it a bit to get it to fit well. I used one of the water bottle boss holes on the under side of my down tube and also used a stainless steel hose clamp I fitted a piece of heat shrink tubing over to secure it. I ended up not using the black piece that comes in the mounting kit and just used this. They also make a flat version but it didn't work for me. I ordered both and used this one. my build was a Motobecane Boris the Brute
The use of a stabilizer bar is strongly recommended on all BBS02 and BBSHD builds. Stabilizer Bars replace the stock fixing plate and prevent damage to your frame while keeping your motor held firmly in place. The stock fixing plate is designed to "bite" into your bottom bracket shell which permanently damages the fr
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https://california-ebike.com/shop/bs...bbs0102-bbshd/ A link to the flat model Stabilizer bracket.
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is there any reason that the battery can't be attached to a tube other than the down tube? i'm thinking of a mid-drive conversion to a fezzari alta peak. this model has a rear shock on the down tube.
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No reason it can't be put elsewhere. But to not through how your bike handles all crazy you will want to keep the battery as low as possible so as not to throw off your center of gravity. On that bike you could mount it to the underside of the down tube. Looks like there is plenty of clearance between the front tire and the down tube. I'd probably go with a wolf pack as they are the most water resistant option and use some high lbs test cable ties for added security. I'm sure it wont fall off but better safe than sorry.
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What is the shaft RPM of the Cyclone 3000 at full throttle and no load? I'm using the ASI BAC 800 (72v) controller, programmed for 4000w.
(Context: I'm building an amphibious e-scooter that needs to be able to accelerate quickly up a steep hill. In WA, e-scooters have no power limitation to be street legal. They have a "top speed on the flat" limitation, but you can put as much torque and power behind that top speed as you want.)
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This is the specs from the factory. There's every chance in the world some of this is incorrect, China tends to fudge the numbers when it suits them
Max speed 900Rpm
Rated speed 800Rpm
Rated output 3000W
Max output 4000W
Rated Torque 50Nm
Max Torque 100Nm
Insulation class E class
Driver: External Driver
Control method PWM
Ambient temperature -15C~40C
Efficiency: 89.6%
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Hi! I preordered a Luna Fixed and am wondering if it's possible to add wired lights aftermarket to it? Thanks!
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Technically yes you can tap into the power source of any electric bike. How difficult that would be depends on the particular bike. Generally speaking we would recommend to just use wireless lights. Modern wireless lights are very efficient and when you pair them with their integrated lithium battery they last a long time, way long enough that hardwiring to the ebike battery is not much of an issue.
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Hello - do you know when these two items will be back in stock:
ISIS bottom bracket 69-73mm for Cyclone
Cyclone Double Sprocket Kit for Trikes, Recumbents and Pedicabs
Also, if there’s no plan to restock these items, do you know of any alternatives?
Thanks!
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What is the difference between a hub motor for the front wheel vs a hub motor for the back wheel? Can I switch to back wheel easily? What additional hardware would I need?
I ordered a magic pie for the front and it works fantastic but I might need to move it to the back due to the fact that my new bike rack requires removal of the front wheel each time for transport which means having to pull the wheel each time. >sigh<
SO....If I just put the wheel on the back problem solved. Obviously, I would need to add the cassette, but I didn't know if there is a difference between the two motors otherwise that I need to be aware of.
Thanks for the help.
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Hi Troy!
Good to see another Pie rider. :-)
Alan points out the differences HERE. But without a donor rear motor. (perhaps one with a bad winding someone would sell for cheap) and the right tools. It doesn't sound cost effective or easy. But with determination and no other choice, anything is possible...
I don't know if my harness mod would help you on your front motor with ease of removal or not... see it here.
https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...3411#post73411
Perhaps a modification of your rack, or a different one?
Regards,
T.C.
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