Ask an ebike technical question get an answer within 30 minutes or so.

[sparky9]

I bought a 3000 watt cyclone kit from you guys in the spring, and unfortunately its stopped working, I believe it is the throttle. At first when I plugged it in the display would show the voltage, but when it twist there was no power. Now today after taking the bike to the local ebike shop it started working again (for a few seconds) but then moments later the display stopped showing the voltage and doesnt want to work at all now. What do you guys think? does that sound like controller or throttle?
Now, I have another throttle from an old ebike I used to own (360 watt cyclone) it is the ORO right half twist. It has the larger connecter (which I cut off) and it has one more wire then the two connectors that came with the kit. The red green black that is obviously goes to the controller and then the other 3 colours are yellow white and gray. Im not sure if this will work with the controller I have (I tried splicing it together, and it didnt work, the ORO just blinks yellow). Any suggestions guys?
Thanks!

I havent gotten any sort of answer for this. I did order a new controller, nothing changed. I have tried numerous ways of using the ORO with no luck. This absolutely sucks, it looks like the motor is fried... any other thoughts?

[commuter ebikes]

I bought a 3000 watt cyclone kit from you guys in the spring, and unfortunately its stopped working, I believe it is the throttle. At first when I plugged it in the display would show the voltage, but when it twist there was no power. Now today after taking the bike to the local ebike shop it started working again (for a few seconds) but then moments later the display stopped showing the voltage and doesnt want to work at all now. What do you guys think? does that sound like controller or throttle?
Now, I have another throttle from an old ebike I used to own (360 watt cyclone) it is the ORO right half twist. It has the larger connecter (which I cut off) and it has one more wire then the two connectors that came with the kit. The red green black that is obviously goes to the controller and then the other 3 colours are yellow white and gray. Im not sure if this will work with the controller I have (I tried splicing it together, and it didnt work, the ORO just blinks yellow). Any suggestions guys?

I understand your frustration. I have spent thousands of dollars and ten months to build a bike, and then have the internal motor wires become mutilated one mile into the first test ride.

I only know hub motors, so I cannot tell you the solution. Generally speaking, however, I can tell you a few ways which could solve your problem.

One way would be to find a local electronics guru (tech) who has a mastery of electronics. My local guy has been a lifesaver for incredibly frustrating electrical problems. You could somehow dissemble the motor and have the electronics tech use his multimeter to work his magic.

Another solution, to which I am partial, is to get an identical replacement motor. Expensive, yes, but think of the benefits. It will almost certainly solve your problems and provide a source of spare parts in the future. Imagine how easy it would be to troubleshoot a questionable motor when you have a new motor right next to it. It is entirely possible that the troubleshooter will fix your faulty motor (if that is the problem), and you could either sell your new one or have a new spare at home, on the shelf. Did I read that you tried a "remove and replace" with an equivalent known functioning controller? If so, that was a smart move.

A cheaper solution is to very carefully check all of your connections. So many times I have had no power, only to find that a wire or connection was loose. A multimeter really shines when checking for continuity. You may just have a loose wire or connection somewhere, which sure makes for a frustrated rider.

Another solution is to put your throttle situation under a microscope (not literally). Since they are so cheap, you might want to try getting a new throttle just like the one that has worked on your system. Carefully reinstall the new throttle. If that doesn't work, experiment with the throttle settings in your display (I have a Cycle Analyst). An electronics tech with a multimeter is a good strategy for figuring out if the throttle is your issue.

Very generally speaking, "remove and replace" is a solid strategy for solving problems. For a system that was once fine wired up as it is, you can remove and replace a single component at a time and that will instantly illuminate which part is faulty. For all your spending, you are acquiring a stock of spare parts, not a bad thing to have!

If you ever make a second ebike, make a duplicate of the one you have now, if that works for you. This will double the value of your spare parts and make all future troubleshooting far easier.

It is incredibly frustrating to have your ebike down. For many people, myself included, that is their ride to work. You will solve this problem, and at that point you will be back out there living the dream. You just have to get over the hump. Best of luck to ya.

[BenS]

sparky9,
I don't know if this will help you, but my bbshd dcp-14 display just started faulting and showing 1.8 volts instead of 48 volts. At first, I swapped the controller, but that wasn't the problem, so I swapped the display and it seems to be fine now, and voltage reading is correct. I still have to go on a proper test run.

[BenS]

Update, I think I might have shorted out one of the controller hall wires, because the silicon insulator has a cut in it, probably from me refitting it. So, the controller is still faulting, and I think it may have damaged the display. I have to replace both the controller and display now.

[Mopedward]

I have a question about pedal assist settings. I have a BBSHD with the DPC10 display. On this display you can only select 1 through 5 levels of assist. When programing on my laptop, I see the stock settings have 10% through 100% of the power spread across the 9 pedal assist levels, (pas level 5 set to 50% and pas level 9 set to 100%). Since my display doesn't support 9 levels, should I spread the power range across pas 1 thro pas 5 instead of having it spread across pas 1 thro pas 9 ( set pas 5 to 100%) ?? Any input or explanation of this situation would be very much appreciated.thanks

[paxtana]

I think someone confirmed couple pages back it goes 1-3-5-7-9 for 5 setting displays.

[OptimusPrime]

Yes, when you use 5 levels they correspond to 1,3,5,7,and 9 on the basic programming page.

[Mopedward]

Thank you for that info! i searched tirelessly to figure that out,fantastic!

[Robert Ver Heul]

Can I mount the speed sensor on the front wheel of a trike and have it work?

[commuter ebikes]

Can I mount the speed sensor on the front wheel of a trike and have it work?

Are you referring to a spoke magnet?

[Robert Ver Heul]

yes . I am wondering what the controller will do if the rear wheel turns and the wheel with the speed sensor does not.

[commuter ebikes]

yes . I am wondering what the controller will do if the rear wheel turns and the wheel with the speed sensor does not.

I imagine that all of your wheels rotate. My understanding is that you can put a spoke magnet on any wheel and then program the display with the circumference of the wheel that has the spoke magnet on it.

Is this a hub motor? What display are you using?

[Robert Ver Heul]

I think the only time there will be a problem is when the back wheel loses traction and spins without moving the trike. If this happens will the controller set a 21 code and shut down the motor?

[ykick]

Yes, that's about the only "problem" scenario. And even then, the system doesn't shutdown immediately. It takes quite a few (100's) wheel revs before that happens.

[commuter ebikes]

So no burnouts, I guess.

[paxtana]

Bafang mid drives usually need a few minutes of operation before it will put up a speed sensor error relating to not detecting the magnet.
It would not throw an error if you have it on a different wheel and the rest of the drivetrain is spinning out, unless you are consistently spinning out for minutes at a time.

[Robert Ver Heul]

Now the display lights up shows me speed and power settings but motor will not run

[ykick]

Any brake/gear sensors? Unplug them and see if it works?

[Robert Ver Heul]

this is a 961 display and a mid drive motor

[Robert Ver Heul]

unhooked brake sensor and motor started. Do I just forget them or is there a fix.

[paxtana]

Depends if it is the magnetic type. If so you probably just need to read how it is properly installed. Magnet too far from sensor= motor stopped. So when lever is not pulled it should be close enough that doesn't happen

[Electricbeam]

Just a quick technical product question. I am wondering if the 50amp Kelly KBS72121X controller you sell for the cyclone mid drives has had its operation frequency tuned specifically for the cyclone, or just had it's parameters changed. In other words, can it be used with a brushless motor other than the cyclone. Also, is it still programmable?

[paxtana]

Changed specific parameters and plugs. I don't think anything else changed but I could be wrong. You would need the program cable.

[Electricbeam]

Thank you. I am also wondering why on the thread where you posted the wiring diagram you say that the power to the hall sensors is 12v, but according to kelly's website it is 5v. The controller does have a unused 12v output pin. Was this connected up instead of the standard 5v hall supply? https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...ne-controllers

[ykick]

Majority motor Hall sensors rated 5-30VDC. Some newer versions using their own pull-up resistor won't survive more than 16VDC. Either 5 or 12VDC will work to power switching Hall sensors.