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    Hello Everyone,

    Quick question about Luna's offered seat suspension choice - Bodyfloat:
    https://lunacycle.com/cirrus-bodyflo...ion-seat-post/

    As I'm a 300lb rider with a couple hard tails I have been looking at these options. What I have only seen on Luna is the option of 'Extra Large' covering 260-375lbs. No where else in my research, including Bodyfloat's own website for their product, list this option - highest rider capacity is Orange/Orange springs for up to 250lbs.

    Before I order this setup from Luna, just wanted to ask how you achieve the higher weight capacity? Custom Springs? spacers? Other?

    Thanks so much,
    Shaun


    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      Last I checked (which admittedly was many months ago) Cirrus does not keep their website up to date.

      We found this out because we used to have the listing detailing not just the spring size but the corresponding spring color as well. Turns out Cirrus had changed their entire production so different colors signified different weights and people were like, oh I got the wrong thing, when actually that was not the case. We had to edit the listing because of the conflicting info provided by Cirrus. It is likely that Cirrus probably still have not updated their site and this is the reason it does not show extra large. We are not modding the seatpost with custom springs that's for sure.

    Help needed in connecting the skinny solid wire from the motor to the 10awg piglet wire attached to an XT90 plug at the battery end. Was advised to cut off bullet connectors at motor wire end and connect and crimp with butt connectors and finish off with heat shrink, etc. Problem is: the motor wires are about a third of the thickness of the xt90 pigtail wires and the two are different cables, 1 is solid, the other is made up of fine wire filaments. Do I use a butt connector that allows the 10awg wire to fit snug inside it and ignore the fact that the skinny motor wire is loose in the big size connector and just crimp it anyway, or must I try ‘combine’ the twos wires together and choose a butt connector that fits this combined wire size?
    I've read the posts on wire connections, but it does not adress this issue.

    Comment


    • ncrkd
      ncrkd commented
      Editing a comment
      If your only avenue are those butt connectors, I'd first try the latter (butt connector that fits the combined wire size). Hell, I'd almost rather use some plain old end butt twist caps and then tape it.

      No soldering or heat shrink equipment? Those inline heat shrink solder connectors maybe?

    • Tommycat
      Tommycat commented
      Editing a comment
      Perhaps a step-down butt crimp connector...



      Yep, there is such a thing. ;-) Just do an online search for a supplier...

      And welcome to the forum!

    • pure_mahem
      pure_mahem commented
      Editing a comment
      Bought some XT90S connectors, a soldering kit of Amazon and watched a Youtube Video on learning to solder. Came out pretty good I think. It's easier than you think it is. Just practice on one before going for it. the HANDSKIT soldering set up is inexpensive and not to bad lot better than what you'd find at walmart for more money

    i just got the 52v luna advanced charger.i have the wold pack. i was thinking of making a wire with the xt60 connector from the charger straight to the battery cutting out the barrel connector. will connecting to the xt60 connector on the battery instead of using a barrel connector cause a spark? im using a male xt60 to male barrel connector and it sparked twice bad and only used this charger 10 times. when using the standard 3 amp charger i got 2 little sparks in a year. thx

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      Hi.. not sure what you mean, can you provide some more details?

      The advanced charger has xt60 on it already. It should plug directly into the xt60 on the wolf pack without needing to make any sort of connector or use any barrel connector.

      With regards to sparking, you want to make sure the charger is plugged into the wall outlet before plugging into the battery. This precharges the capacitors in the charger so power does not rush backwards from the battery into the charger. That's where the spark comes from (assuming whatever barrel connector is being used is not shorting it)

    Originally posted by JustVisiting View Post
    Hello Everyone,

    Quick question about Luna's offered seat suspension choice - Bodyfloat:
    https://lunacycle.com/cirrus-bodyflo...ion-seat-post/

    As I'm a 300lb rider with a couple hard tails I have been looking at these options. What I have only seen on Luna is the option of 'Extra Large' covering 260-375lbs. No where else in my research, including Bodyfloat's own website for their product, list this option - highest rider capacity is Orange/Orange springs for up to 250lbs.

    Before I order this setup from Luna, just wanted to ask how you achieve the higher weight capacity? Custom Springs? spacers? Other?

    Thanks so much,
    Shaun

    Awesome! Thank you for that explanation. I will be ordering one soon.

    Comment


      Originally posted by ncrkd View Post
      If I'm reading that bike's specs correctly, it uses a 12x157 thru axle. I don't offhand see how you get "there" with the Rohloff A12 system (12x142, 12x148, 12x177, and 12x197mm) - since your in-country, I'd contact Rohloff directly. As you probably know, the Rohloff hub is not really a thru-hub (other than for quick releases), and the A12 is a kludge. See http://cyclemonkeylab.blogspot.com/2...-a12-hubs.html

      For the chainline, you can tweak the Rohloff chain line a little via either the screw-on or splined sprockets. Fortunately the Rohloff has a wide chain line by default, which would probably lead you to spacing correctly the BBSHD.

      Converting a full suspension bike with a BBSHD to belt, well that's likely a saga by itself - "tensioning" is the magic word.

      P.S. There's a contingent here in the U.S. that wouldn't mind a container-load of Rohloff hubs smuggled in, somehow.
      Thanks for the Monkey link on the 148 Boost A12!

      Call me naive, but can’t the “proper spacers” be used with a QR axle model by simply using a longer QR that has to be removed completely to remove the wheel be used?
      2020 Banshee Paradox (pedal)
      2018 eSoma Wolverine BD 3spd: https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...t-drive-bbs02b
      2018 eSurly ECR 5spd IGH 29+: https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...id-drive-build
      2016 Soma B-Side BD 3spd IGH (sold): https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...v-custom-build
      2013 Niner Jet 9 (sold): https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...lectric-assist

      Comment


      • ncrkd
        ncrkd commented
        Editing a comment
        Hummm - you means spacers that would float on the quick release shaft? If I'm following you, that sounds like it would be too weak - down to the side sheer strength of the QR shaft diameter.

        Well - maybe? a QR shaft is, what, 5mm, and those special bolts Rohloff is using for the A12 adaption are 7mm.
        Last edited by ncrkd; 06-06-2019, 10:41 AM.

      Click image for larger version  Name:	image_17245.jpg Views:	1 Size:	1.89 MB ID:	88070Click image for larger version  Name:	439CA95E-E245-4DD7-A799-94B4F176D733.jpeg Views:	1 Size:	2.04 MB ID:	88071
      Originally posted by grandnash84 View Post
      i just got the 52v luna advanced charger.i have the wold pack. i was thinking of making a wire with the xt60 connector from the charger straight to the battery cutting out the barrel connector. will connecting to the xt60 connector on the battery instead of using a barrel connector cause a spark? im using a male xt60 to male barrel connector and it sparked twice bad and only used this charger 10 times. when using the standard 3 amp charger i got 2 little sparks in a year. thx
      The charger came with a female end. If I connect it directly to the male end on my battery will I get spark? I made a connector via barrel connector so the xt60 on my battery won’t get damaged from the spark. I thought the charger was supposed to not be plugged in when connecting to battery. But is it safe to do? Thx
      Last edited by grandnash84; 06-06-2019, 05:42 PM.

      Comment


      • pure_mahem
        pure_mahem commented
        Editing a comment
        I set my charger on what I want it to do then I Plug the charger in to the wall AC outlet. I watch the display come up and top out. Then I plug the XT60 into the wolf pack. When it finishes I unplug from the battery first and then the plug from the wall.

        Not understanding where the barrel connector you are talking about comes into play. The Wolf Pack doesn't have a Barrel connector and neither does Lunas Advanced Charger.

      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        If you are saying the xt60 gender needs to be changed it may be advisable to simply cut off the original and add a male xt60.

        In any case I agree with pure_mahem on charge procedure. It can seem counterintuitive but that is the best way

      I have a new Luna Fixed and I need to do a rear tire change (stuff happens and hey... you gotta ride these things). Removing the rear wheel seems simple right up to the point where I try and remove tension from the belt so I can pull off the wheel. As you can see from the pic, there is no way to move the wheel forward to reduce belt tension any more than I have. This includes

      1. cocking the wheel to the left after removing all hardware (the non drivers side locking washer and nut, the right shift housing, nut and washer as well as all parts of the tensioning device, leaving a dropout with only an axle in it

      2. Removing the two dropout bolts from the frame. I thought maybe that was it but they appear to be traditional interchangeable dropout inserts to allow the use of a thru axle or similar. You have to spread the stays to get them out with the wheel still in place, which isn't possible since the axle is so long

      3. Unbolting the stay break where the belt is meant to pass thru doesn't help either.

      In the picture you can see removing everything does provide a *little* bit of slack but the belt is nowhere near coming off voluntarily. You'd have to stretch it... which these belts don't do.

      What am I missing?

      https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ja...XYiXF0EQ=w2400

      Comment


      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        Those decisions are not made by me but I can pass along the feedback.

      • Eric Luna
        Eric Luna commented
        Editing a comment
        got it thanks :)

      • dpcook
        dpcook commented
        Editing a comment
        I'm in the same boat. I've got the Large 'fixed' and have had to remove the belt a couple of times already to repair a wire connection on the charge port. Otherwise I probably would not have noticed how tight the belt is. With all the stuff removed as MoneyPit describes my belt is still measuring in the 65-90hz range! I shudder to think how bad that is for the IGH. So it seems to be more than just a maintainance inconvenience!

        I see MoneyPit says he still has to put some tension on it. I'm well over the max without the tensioner. I'm guessing the problem is worse on the large, vs the regular?
        Last edited by dpcook; 4 weeks ago.

      I received my new Sur Ron X and it came with a 6" pigtail with a LED that appears to connect between the battery and the wire harness. There are no instructions for this so I don't know what it is for... Also, there was a slip of paper from SurRon that says the speed limiter wire now comes intact and must be cut to go into high power, why was this changed and did they change any other programming from the controller? Reason I ask is because I might buy a second one that is a few months older and I just want to know the difference.

      Comment


      • pure_mahem
        pure_mahem commented
        Editing a comment
        Eric released a Video on the wire. The gist is it comes that way to be street legal. By snipping the wire you the user remove the limiter. If you ever choose to limit it again all you have to do is reconnect the wire.

        No info on the pigtail.

      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        Yeah I think Sur-Ron felt (rightly so) that cutting the wire was an easier modification than joining the wire, which is why they made the change. No other changes far as I am aware

        The led thing is made by Sur-Ron for unspecified programming reasons. Never heard of anyone using it and never got any info on how to use it. You can probably toss it out

      Trying to get real world experience with someone that has installed a rear hub motor on a mountain bike with 142mm dropout spacing Not a through-axle, just a QR. The Bafang G310 motors seem to have an OLD of 138 which is slightly larger than the standard 135mm spacing, and lots of kits claim they work for 135-142, but I can't really believe it because those few MM make a difference for disc brake alignment and it wouldn't be good to squeeze an aluminum frame to fit 135 if it is 142.

      Anyway, my searches have come up empty, so reaching out!
      thanks in advance.

      Comment


      • BK Xray
        BK Xray commented
        Editing a comment
        I can't answer your whole question but I have installed hub motors on our tandem that has 145 mm dropouts. The axles are pretty wide. You don't need to squeeze your dropouts together, just use a washer or 2 to fill the gap.


      Originally posted by MoneyPit View Post
      I have a new Luna Fixed ...
      Here's the Gates Belt length calculator: https://www.gatescarbondrive.com/~/m...tor.xlsx?la=en

      CDX - CenterTrack Belts (12mm wide)
      Teeth Length Part Number
      174 1914mm 11M-174T-12CTS
      168 1848mm 11M-168T-12CTS
      166 1826mm 11M-166T-12CTS
      158 1738mm 11M-158T-12CTS
      151 1661mm 11M-151T-12CTS
      143 1573mm 11M-143T-12CTS*
      137 1507mm 11M-137T-12CTS*
      132 1452mm 11M-132T-12CTS
      130 1430mm 11M-130T-12CTS
      128 1408mm 11M-128T-12CTS
      125 1375mm 11M-125T-12CTS
      122 1342mm 11M-122T-12CTS
      120 1320mm 11M-120T-12CTS
      118 1298mm 11M-118T-12CTS
      115 1265mm 11M-115T-12CTS
      113 1243mm 11M-113T-12CTS
      111 1221mm 11M-111T-12CTS
      108 1188mm 11M-108T-12CTS
      * Available Fall 2019
      2nd build, 2018 Crust Scapegoat, BBS02 or BBSHD, Rohloff IGH
      3rd build, 2018 Crust Evasion step-thru, BBS02, Shimano Nexus INTER-3 IGH
      4th build, 2016 Salsa Marrakesh flatbar frameset, BBSHD, Alfine 8 IGH

      Visit the forum knowledge base

      Comment


        Just wanted to point out that my sur ron x built in 1/19 is noticeably torquier (easier wheelies) than my x that was built 8/18.

        Comment


        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          Interesting. Thank you for the feedback, will have to look into this.

        Hi, I needa BBS02B controller but the web store doesn't seem to have the B version. https://lunacycle.com/bafang-bbs02-7...ntroller-3077/ Any idea when the B version will be available?

        Comment


        • Casxca
          Casxca commented
          Editing a comment
          Seconded. I also need a Version B Controller.

        I just got my first BBSHD. I'm learning a lot. In an attempt to pull the display cable through a hole in my down tube, I accidentally bent the pins that are attached to the controller in such a way that two of them touched while the battery was on. As a result, my Luna Display is no longer turning on and no power is going to the motor.

        Is it really that easy to short the controller? :( The pins were way too bendy

        If so, what are my options as someone with no electrical experience? I saw the Luna Video about replacing the controller. Is that the only way to go?
        Last edited by Casxca; 06-08-2019, 10:19 PM.

        Comment


          Casxca I would not characterize it as easy to short. Not only were the pins bent but it appears the housing was damaged as well. That connector normally looks like the attached pic Click image for larger version  Name:	00100lPORTRAIT_00100_BURST20190609030120407_COVER.jpg Views:	1 Size:	1.60 MB ID:	88165

          At a minimum the harness needs replaced, but I think it is a strong possibility the controller was fried as well. Sorry man.

          Comment


          • Casxca
            Casxca commented
            Editing a comment
            Woah, thanks for the weekend reply! Do you guys have a B version controller that I can pick up at the storefront tomorrow?

            Edit: And yeah. The green housing came apart when I pulled the cable through the down tube hole with tweezers.
            Last edited by Casxca; 06-09-2019, 08:24 AM.

          • paxtana
            paxtana commented
            Editing a comment
            It appears to be sold out temporarily, also the warehouse is closed Mondays..

          Is there an adapter cable for connecting the 3 phase power cables of the Cyclone 3K motor to the ASI BAC 800 Controller? The controller has bullet connectors on it.

          Comment


          • paxtana
            paxtana commented
            Editing a comment
            Not that I am aware of.
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