Hi -- I just assembled my Luna Stealth Fixed, and am so excited, BUT the rear wheel is rubbing against the frame (to the right). Please see the below pics. What should I do to center the wheel? I'm a newbie, so really appreciate any help. Thanks!
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OK,Originally posted by paxtana View Post
My problem is you guys are worried that someone will steal your settings,
On the other hand, IE, Me the end user, He or She gets left in the shit & wasted $200 give or take.
I don't want your settings, i want to be able to connect to my own controller what i bought from you and change things as i go,
IE what happens if i need to use on another motor, i am screwed as i have to buy a new controller just to run it.
There is no way you guys can tune the controller to every set up which leaves me kind of fxxxxd.
If i could give you guys any info on how to get more custom it would be, give your customers access to there own stuff and stop locking them out.
if i could give anyone reading this thread more info, it would be, Make sure you know what you are buying, Once you have bought the ASI BAC 800 controller the only thing you can do with it is run the cyclone motor you bought it for, anything else and its useless.
Last edited by paxtana; 08-01-2019, 06:35 PM. Reason: this is not the right thread for talking trashComment
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andrewrich I am sorry if we gave the impression this was an appropriate venue for writing the sort of comments I had to delete just now, but it is clearly not intended for that kind of behavior.
This thread is strictly for technical questions so we will thank you to stop spamming the thread with commentary.
If you do not want to take responsibility for not reading the listing you bought from, then go right ahead but it does not change facts.
I know it sucks buying something you end up learning is not optimal for whatever custom mods you had in mind with your build as opposed to the setting you explicitly selected in the listing. And even wanting to make that somebody else's problem is understandable. But we will have to decline this attempt to somehow make a big stink on our own forum about it. Feel free to talk about it on endless sphere though, they love drama like that.
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I used a different internet connection and managed to download the app, why does this app want access to my call log, SMS messages and a host of other stuff that is unrelated to setting up a motor controller?Comment
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On a bbshd, what is the purpose or function of the orange o-ring on the motor rotor tip? Should it be greased or left dry so that it grips the inner bearing race?Comment
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Thanks paxtana. So should it be greased in order to allow it to rotate in the bearing? Or left dry so it grips?Originally posted by Blane View PostComment
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Is it normal for your bike and charger to develop a voltage discrepancy? I'm on my 6th charge of one Luna Wolfpack V2 30q 12ah pack and the 1st of my 2nd Luna Wolfpack V2 30q. When I did the first 5 charges the reading of the bikes voltage of the battery pack was spot on every time with the charger maybe showing 0.1 voltage difference. Upon Charging both packs to head out for a ride. I notice there is a 0.5 volt difference on both packs from what the Luna Advanced 300w charger reads and what the bike is saying is there. Charger reading 58.6 and bike reading 58.1. Seems odd that it would just start being different like that is all. Should I just check them with a volt meter and see which one is reading closer? What if the bike is more accurate? Will that mean I will never get a full charge on my batteries? Maybe I'm just over thinking it and worrying about nothing. I need to go for a ride and just not think about it!Comment
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I have a Luna Charger 52V Advanced 300W Ebike Charger that I purchased in March 2018. I always slow charge on 1 amp and usually charge to 80%. I use the charger about every other day and charge to 100% once or twice a month to balance the battery. Two days ago the battery was charging very quickly and I noticed that it was charging at 3 amps, even though it was set to 1 amp. When I moved the switch to the 2 amp position the readout shows over 5 amps. Any ideas why and how I can fix?Comment
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That's a very generous offer which I'll take!!! Can you please email me when the charger is back in stock and let me know how to place an order for the replacement? I was also thinking of ordering another BBS02 and maybe I can place an order for both if the BBS02 is back in stock. -
Sent you the discount code via private message. To be notified when restocked simply go to the listing and enter your email address into the box on the page
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Hi,
Few days ago I had unexpected shutdown from my kit.
I've found out that it's my battery ! It's no more holding a normal voltage, between 43V to 58V, it's down to 24V !? So the Low Voltage Current security from the controller trigger and shutdown the kit.
The battery is a year and a half old with 5000km, since it's 650USD I'm hoping to repair it.
How should I proceed ?
1- dissembled 2- check each cells for low voltage
3- replace bad cells with similar one
4-reassemble...
Thanks for your support.Last edited by EtienneLM; 08-02-2019, 09:47 PM.Comment
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Wow that's a lot of miles. Yes that would be the procedure to check it. Given that it is a softpack I would lean towards it being physical damage, if that is the case it is probably not going to be repairable. Replacing individual cells in a pack is not really something that is typically done for many reasons, but you could at least check the cell banks and inspect for damage.
Generally, if you test the cell banks and all the cells are balanced, it is likely to be the bms and can potentially be repairable. Otherwise, not so much.
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Thanks for the answer Paxtana.
So I stripped the battery tonight and I was able to found out that the BMS is faulty. Because when I checked the voltage directly from the battery pole I got 51.4V ! I also found a broken pin into the wider white connector.
So my 600$ battery is not completely dead, yeah!
Otherwise all cells seem to be balanced at 3.7V except one at 1.9V
Now I wander where to you get your BMS from ? Any recommendations ?
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Hmm... unfortunately that is not as good news as it might initially seem. If there is that much imbalance adding a new bms is not going to repair it, because it will detect the imbalance and refuse to attempt to balance (or charge) since the imbalance would usually indicate a major problem.
There is not a good method for bringing a single cell bank up to voltage before installing the new bms and without that, it's not going to work.
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I bought two Sur-ron X bikes from Luna recently (order numbers 81786 and 78468). The front wheel fell off while my friend was riding one of them and he flew over the handle bars, barely avoiding serious injury. The axle bolt slipped out and the front wheel fell off. (The brake line got damaged in the process.) I inspected the other bike and noted that the bolt was about to slip out also. On both bikes, the screw cap on the right side (when facing the front of the bike) fell off. I need two new screw caps and a new brake line to fix these bikes. But the more important question is, how do I keep the front wheels from falling off?!Attached FilesComment
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You mean the thru axle? You want it properly torqued and to regularly check that sort of thing as recommended in the docs linked from the listing. That is routine for usage of any dirtbike. I suppose you could add a bit of blue loctite as well.
Here is the document that should have been followed https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...-initial-setup
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Hi my current bike has a BB30 bottom bracket which I think is 68mm, but I plan on getting a bike that has a 100 mm bottom bracket. Can I just use spacers on the BBSHD 73-100mm to set it up on the current bike and then switch it over to my new bike once I get it?
to ask a question in a simpler form, can I use the BBSHD motor on a bike with a 68 mm bottom bracket?Comment
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Yes you can do that but there are some things to keep in mind. See this page https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...considerations
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I have the Mac Motor/ ASI High Performance Hub Kit on my front wheel and it's been working great for months. A couple of days ago while riding all propulsion went away. There was no grinding or other out of the normal noise. I pushed the bike home and started to investigate. I tested the hall sensors, and all three cycle between 0V and 5V as the motor is turned backwards. The motor will usually spin up fine if the wheel is lifted off the ground. It will stop responding to the throttle if it meets any resistance either in the form of the front brake when in the air or when placed back on the ground. If it's not spinning, it will hum for a couple of seconds before stopping to respond to the throttle. It may also do this when spinning and it stops working, but I can't hear it above the other sounds. Once it stops responding to throttle input (after it meets any resistance) it won't react to any throttle input until I cycle the controller on/off key on the throttle. Then it will spin up again freely until it meets resistance. I'm not really sure where to troubleshoot next nor if the issue is the motor, the controller, or something else. Thanks!Comment
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When it shuts down are you having a look at the lights on the controller, either while it is shut down or after you power it back on if necessary?
There is probably some LEDs flashing an error code sequence which could help determine the issue. Anyway it would probably be good to email support@lunacycle.com on this issue since I do not believe it is something we will be able to resolve via a forum thread.
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Hello,
I've been using a BBSHD with a 52V 20Ah battery, running at 1500W peak, for 20miles/day 5 day a week. Total 1900miles no issues other than grinding noises at 1400 miles resolved by greasing the nylon gear. Then whole system started to shut down rarely on flat surface, it seemed when battery was at 80%. Then shutdown started to happen at random times when motor starts pulling on uphill (worked fine for hard uphill for 10min then downhill and when uphill again it shuts down. Repeated twice same pattern). Now shutdown happens within 10 sec of starting to ride on flat surface, at 28W it lasts a bit longer (~30sec) but eventually shuts down. I need to power cycle the battery to be able to turn on the display again.
I changed the battery BMS twice. Just changed the motor controller with a Luna one. Tried a new screen. Checked the cable connection including battery connectors (I cut then re-installed new battery connectors on the battery side). Tried riding with brake sensors disconnected. Speed sensor magnet is well aligned. Still having problem.
Battery vendor insists it's the motor. I inspected battery cells they visually seem fine. Battery charges to 58V.Last edited by peoe; 08-03-2019, 06:42 AM.Comment
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That means that the problem is not in the motor or controller. Could be a connector like the discharge connector on the battery, or maybe if it is a hardcase battery the contacts between the case and the cradle. But assuming you have already checked these simple things, it is probably the battery despite whatever insistence of whoever sold it to you. -
I have a soft pack battery, did the BMS jumpstart, then measured cell banks voltage. All banks are at 4.2V except one at 2.7V. Could that be enough of a delta to cause the shutdown issue?
Also for some reason my BMS battery port only gives me 48V (when it used to be 58V), measuring at the battery directly shows me 57V.
In full disclosure when I pushed a bit hard on motor connected directly to charger with lots of friction on wheel, it all shutdown after a while. I was able to turn on and run motor fine. Not sure if shutdown was due to issue with motor or just fact that I was just putting too much resistance (it was trying to pull too many amps? Charger is 5A). -
That is a large imbalance on the cell banks and could definitely cause a shutdown. I would bet you can physically inspect the corresponding bank and see a cell physically damaged. Typically this is from a dent like if the bike fell over or something like that. If you need a replacement that is more durable you may want to check out the Luna wolf pack, it is potted and practically indestructible.
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Description states, "Do not worry about having too many amps as your controller will only use them if it needs them so it's always better to have too many, than not enough.", then states, "This battery is right at the edge of what the Cyclone 3000w controller can handle. For people who purchase this battery from us and the Cyclone 3000w from us in the past, we will offer a 6 month warranty on the controller if you blow it out with this battery." If the controller only takes the amps needed how would the battery be at the edge and blow it out?Last edited by Foss; 08-03-2019, 02:37 PM.Comment
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Stock controller can handle anywhere from 36v to 72v nominal. That battery is at the edge of what the controller can handle in terms of Volts, not Amps.
Generally the higher you go in voltage the more it stresses components.
For example a controller has capacitors and those caps are rated for some particular range of voltage. The higher you go towards that top end in terms of voltage, the more likely it is to blow a cap. In practice I would say the cyclone stock controller is one of the more reliable controllers we have ever sold so I would not worry about it too much, but statistically you do have a higher likelihood of an issue on your ebike if you go with a higher voltage battery, and that likelihood is directly related to how high you are going with the voltage.
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At what voltage does the luna batteries begin balancing? I have a triangle 20 ah pf cell battery and a bottle 11.5 pf cell battery. Both are 52 volt. My charger is set to 58.0 volts for battery longevity. Will it balance effectively?Comment
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Hi all, hope all is well. I have just bought a Kelly sine wave controller (KLS7218S) and am in the process of wiring it up and rebuilding the bike around the new hardware. My question is, has anyone had any experience in the wiring up process of these controllers? Because in the manual Kelly make the point (2 or 3 times) of stating that they highly recommend you wiring the controllers up with a suitable fuse and an appropriate Heavy Duty contactor, pre charge resistor and a diode to protect the controller from sparking and current flow back damage caused when turning the controller on and off. Has anyone set this up before? Did you use the suggested method with contactor etc or has anyone wired up these controllers without all the extras and without any dramas or circuitry damage? Hope that all makes sense and any suggestions/help would be muchly appreciated.Cheers.
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I wired up a Kelly KEB controller using the precharge resistor and recommend contactor
The only problem I have is that the contactor draws almost 1 Amp from the battery whenever it's energized and gets fairly hot, so I'll look for a better contactor someday.
I do not have a fuse installed. I'm hoping the BMS in the LubaCycle battery is paying attention all the time. :-) -
AlanKilian, thanx for the reply. Yeh I have noticed that the contactors are quite expensive (especially the 72volt ones), in comparison to the rest of the components. FYI I emailed Kelly LLC regarding this question and they basically told me that you wire up the kit excluding the contactors etc "at ur own risk" (so obviously voids any warranty) but it can be done. Dont think im willing to risk all the effort thats already gone into the bike.
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