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[Surf618]

Hi, I have recently purchased the CYCLONE-BT-CNTRL-60A

(60 amp 36-72v Ebike Bluetooth Programmable Controller ) The controller is off the Luna Cycle website. Moreover, it was my first ebike build in sometime I forgot to do the math to support the amprage of the motor with Ohm's law. I was more stuck ooking at the bluetooth module upon purchase. My dilemma is can I support the 350 watt motor with the 60 amp? Additionally, is it possible to strip the bluetooth module out and input it to the current controller I am running? Would it be possible to lower the amperage of the 60 amp controller if so how?

[Eric Luna]

look into buying a cycle analyst which will easily limit the current for you.

the motor might handle the power if your gentle with it... the Sondors guys rund 350 watt motors with lots of power through them with no problems.

[Bullfrog]

Agree with Eric...Cycle Analyst is the way to go. You can limit the amperage via the easily programmable programmable "CA". Plus the CA will give you a speedometer and all kinds of flexibility that can be programmed without any additional devices.

[ewum]

Hi - I'm looking at getting one of your front wheel conversion kits (a 750W one). I noticed on the site is warns against using it with a bike that has suspension on the front - why is this? I'm looking to convert a hybrid bike that has mountain bike style shocks - will this be okay? I'm fully aware I might need a torsion bar and would have no problem installing one or welding something in to support it. It's a Chromoly frame.

Thanks!

[moarpower]

The hub motor exerts twisting forces against the axle equal and opposite the rotational force of the wheel. Suspension forks were not designed to deal with forces in that direction. Aluminum can snap suddenly and without warning. Steel forks will bend before they break. Obviously steel is a safer choice.

Buy one or two torque arms so your motor does not "spin out" under load or if your nuts come loose. This prevents it from bending the dropouts and the axle spinning freely in the direction opposite the motor. The consequence of spin out is broken wires, shorted controllers, and a total system overhaul.

[Marykays1]

I have an eleven year-old Giant Mountain Bike that I really loved and so five years ago, I put a front-hub ebike kit on it ...48V 1000 watt. It has steel suspension forks and I believe I have the torque arms. Haven't had any problems. Just did theGap/ C&O trail with it. I will tell you though, that you will be much happier if you change your front chainring. I would spinout at 24 mph, when going down hills with a 48 chainring. I now have a 53 and am much happier. Also, when going up gravel hills, it has been great to have two-wheel drive. Very glad I got a front-hub motor.

[Marykays1]

Oops. Just noticed this post is a few months old. So did you get it and how is it working for you?

[jorgphoto]

I am looking to add an LCD to my Sondors bike but I am unclear if I need to order a new controller with it. How do I know if this is required? This is a photo of my bike..

[HIGHVOLTAGE]

Are you referring to the Sondors upgrades? If so, then yes. Both the controller and KT LCD3 controller are both required together for full functionality.

You should be able to buy them as a combo item at this link:
https://lunacycle.com/batteries/gaug...ammed-kt-lcd3/

[John T]

Erick, good news first, the LEDs on the battery are now back on (one yellow and one red), However, both lights come on at the charger, and cycle off and on every 5-8 seconds. There is an audible click as the fan tries to turn on. It does a partial spin. Waited 5 minutes, switched the charge level to 80%, plugged the socket into the wall then the battery with the same result. Any ideas?

[Eric Luna]

do you have a volt meter to test the battery to make sure it is not fully charged?

[John T]

Eric, I believe the battery is very low. Now there are no lights on the battery when off of the charger. (BMS shut down>low voltage?) Last night had the battery on the bike in the stand, voltage showing on the DPC-14 was 44.1 . The voltmeter reads 4.68 at the XT-60 connector when inserted into the battery, (the same meter when reading the battery of the car reads 15.1V (older Harbor Freight unit with a newer battery)) when hooked to the charger (no change, from above) the reading is 1. The fan isn't running, and after looking closer, the LED #2 has a very brief change to red from green just as it turns off while cycling.

[moarpower]

If your BMS is in shutdown and the charger does not do the trick you can "jumpstart" your pack. I had to do this once.

You connect your charger's output to the XT90 output connector on the battery via a jumper. It bypasses the battery's BMS and safety features and should not be done for any significant amount of time. Just long enough to kick the BMS on (as in a few seconds). Then you charge it like normal.

If you can solder making a jumper like that is pretty easy. I did using spare connectors. Wait and see what the Luna folks tell you to do first though.

[Wedgesurfer]

Is the Luna 750c color display compatible with Sondors?

[HIGHVOLTAGE]

Definitely not. Only compatible with BBSxx units.

[calfee20]

Here is a stupid question because I have never touched one of those arms. Since the pedals have to be opposite each other are those splines arranged so the arms only go on one way?

[Bullfrog]

On my square taper cranks (also on a BBSHD), you can install both cranks in any of four positions.

[calfee20]

This post is so old I can't even figure out my question. Please note though I mentioned splines not square tapers.

[SpinCycle]

I have a new BBSHD I have installed on a Santa Cruz Super Light. The motor ran for about 2 minutes, then quit. The speedo is working, and so does the display but it never gets higher than 26 watts. Throttle does not work. I have two other bikes with the BBSHD motor, and have tried another display to eliminate that possibility. I opened the controller case and checked the connections. All seems fine. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Terry

[ykick]

Any error codes thrown on the display/dash?

[moarpower]

Are you using a new to you battery or a battery that you have already run? What voltage is/was it at? Is the battery connector properly seated?

[SpinCycle]

Thanks ykick--no error codes. Checked all the connections too.

[SpinCycle]

Tried other charged battery. Thanks

[Tom.ferris]

Hi, a year a go I bought a 52v Panasonic NCR18650b 20ah battery, a luna 220 advanced 300w charger, and a luna fat cargo frame. I also bought a LR big block mid drive designed for that frame, an 18fet 60 amp controller and the Co troller computer/display, with the throttle, etc. I finally got it assembled and running about 6 weeks ago. The battery will not keep a charge. It takes about 2 hours to charge it fully (green light) then it runs out of charge in about 20 minutes. When I first rode it the charge lasted about 3 hours. The whole thing just turns off- display goes blank, bike stops. Any clue what might be happening? Nothing overheating- all electrical components remain cool to thr touch. And the battery display (on thr battery itself) will not turn on at this point either- it does not register any charge as if it is dead. Any advice or help would be appreciated! Thank you much.

[moarpower]

I'm glad it's working out for you! Sounds like the BMS is doing it's job and balancing the pack.

Riding it down to 40 is pushing the pack right to it's limits. 46V is about the 10% charge mark when the pack is at rest (no load). If you want to extend the pack's life, reign in the enthusiasm a little (hard to do, I know!) and try not to regularly push it so low. I try to keep from discharging mine below 48V (around 20% charge). I don't ever ride hard or far enough to really worry about it though.

[Scoonie]

Buy a properly sized battery.

[Bullfrog]

Sounds like a weak cell group to me...and then your BMS is turning the battery off because one of the cell groups is dropping below the Low Voltage Cut Off. The "Big Block" does use a lot of power but I would think a 20Ah battery would last longer than 20 minutes. "moarpower" has the right idea on charge/discharge for battery life...I like to charge to 85% and try not to run below 25% if you have a programmable charger. Most chargers at least allow you to charge to 90% as opposed to 100%.

[Snikerdoodlz]

Is there a thumb throttle for the Magic Pie 5? If not, what is each wire on the throttle (a daigram would help)?

[Snikerdoodlz]

Would it not be a bad idea to take my current twist throtte, cut down most of the handle, and put a little thumb outcrop?

[Snikerdoodlz]

Is there any option to buy the throttle from Luna? It's listed as an add-on for the MP5.

[moarpower]

Probably best to not cut up the throttle you have. It's always good to have a backup!

I don't think Luna sells that throttle. It doesn't pull up in searches or in hub motor parts.

I'd try emailing sales@lunacycle.com or support@lunacycle.com to be sure.

You can probably make due with something like the ORO thumb throttle that they sell if you are willing to splice wires. Golden Motor UK sells that same throttle with what looks like a waterproof 5 pin connector for the GM harness.

Starting with a proper knowledge of what's what in there is important if you don't already possess the skills to figure out what's what. That said, I'd expect three wires are throttle (+5V, signal, ground) and two are for the battery meter (+battery, ground).

Just remember, sorting it out yourself can take an hour or more- you are sorting out wires, stripping, soldering, shrink tubing, and making the job look good. At a certain point, what's worth more? Your time or the $12 you might save.

[calfee20]

Here is a similar Luna. http://lunacycle.com/luna-comfort-cruiser-bbs02-bbshd/

[Rodney64]

Customer question: I recently purchased your khs 5000 question about an idler pulley on the chain for the motor
to the crank. Is that pulley suppose to have spring tension on it? Right
now the pulley does not.. It is rigid in it's position with no tension on
it. The reason I ask is because it has come off a couple of times and it
seems as though that pulley should have spring tension on it. If there is
not supposed to be tension on it how do I adjust it?

[Iceman.kcmo]

I m looking at getting a kt-lcd3 along with the add on controler for a new sondors thin. Will this workand what connectors need spliced and will i need additional connectors?

[HIGHVOLTAGE]

There should be a section on the controller page for instructions on how to make it compatible with Sondors Thin.

https://lunacycle.com/sondors-upgrad...roller-36-52v/

The bullet connectors will need to be spliced and switched over to XT90's or whatever is preferable to you (Andersons, XT60's etc etc)

[sparky9]

I bought a 3000 watt cyclone kit from you guys in the spring, and unfortunately its stopped working, I believe it is the throttle. At first when I plugged it in the display would show the voltage, but when it twist there was no power. Now today after taking the bike to the local ebike shop it started working again (for a few seconds) but then moments later the display stopped showing the voltage and doesnt want to work at all now. What do you guys think? does that sound like controller or throttle?
Now, I have another throttle from an old ebike I used to own (360 watt cyclone) it is the ORO right half twist. It has the larger connecter (which I cut off) and it has one more wire then the two connectors that came with the kit. The red green black that is obviously goes to the controller and then the other 3 colours are yellow white and gray. Im not sure if this will work with the controller I have (I tried splicing it together, and it didnt work, the ORO just blinks yellow). Any suggestions guys?
Thanks!