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    Hello. Im finally ready to pull the trigger on my bbshd kit from luna. I have a motobecane FB4, which like many other motobecanes, have the flared chainstay issue with mounting the motor. so should i stick with my 100mm (the correct size for my bb) and use spacers? or should i get the 120mm? One last question, i also ordered a nuvinci n171 hub, and was just curious if a 30t mighty mini paired with that hub could help conquer the San Francisco hills. Thanks

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      Whether you need 120 depends on how much the chainstay flares out. There's a dimensional diagram on the KB
      https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...ight-bbsxx-kit

      If it flares out to such an extent that it means you will lose ~20mm or something like that then yes it may be necessary to go 120. Also keep in mind you may need extra spacers.

      30T may be usable, sure it would be great on hills. However given that the chainstay issue that's already going to put your chainring pretty far outbound. You may want to go with something that wraps around the secondary reduction housing to at least get the chainline a little better, which would hypothetically be any chainring 42t or higher (46t is stock). Finding the sweet spot for your situation may take some trial and error.

    I oil my chain by suspending the bike in my shop from the seat, and goosing the throttle while i slobber the chain lube on. Been doing that way for years, but just recently, I noticed a new noise, ONLY with no load, with the wheel suspended. Riding, it's as quiet as ever. I read up on the lube procedure, but only did the right side, using Mobile 28, with no difference being made. BBSHD, about 2500 miles. I know the noise issue has been beat to death, but I am unclear as to whether or not it matters if it only happens with no load on it. My next move is to run it up with the big ring gear off, to see if it still makes the same noise. I didn't know about that trick until doing some searching here. I've never messed with the left side, where I understand the plastic gear is, and I STILL don't see the logic of greasing a plastic gear.

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      It is typical for these drives to be much quieter while under load compared to unloaded while on a stand. My own bikes are the same way.

    On the battery. I have seen reccomendations to wait after charging before driving. My solar keeps my battery charged continuously.
    I guess my question is the surface charge is higher after initially being charged. (Surface charge is not yet absorbed) than it is a half hour later. Running off the surface charge does not seem to be a problem?
    sorry for this probably unimportant probable inconsequential non issue. OCD.

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      Are you referring to the voltage fresh off the charge? Lithium batteries do tend to sag after you stop the charge, especially if they have some cycles on them. Probably also if there is power keeping it at 100% constantly since that's a little rough for lithium cells to stay at 4.2v like that.

      Anything you are doing to pull your battery back down into the ideal band of %SOC as soon as possible is going to have more pros than cons. That said, how soon you pull power from a fully charged battery is not nearly as important as what you are charging to (assuming you are trying to maximize cycles rather than maximizing range for that particular trip)

    Will the PF41 adapter work with my 2019 Trek Farley 5? It currently has a Race Face x91 41mm BB.

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    I ordered the Sur-Ron Super Moto Conversion Kit but upon closer evaluation I noticed that the inside of the hub is slightly off center. I haven't tried putting the axle in yet but it seems like it would be near impossible unless the hub shifts back into place if the axle is jammed in. Is this normal?Click image for larger version

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    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      Depending on the fork you are using there may be additional hardware you need to use with it, that would be my guess, otherwise I'd just work the axle in until it fits. What fork you got

    Sorry if this has been discussed before but I didn't find info after searching the forum for while.

    Can I swap out the stock Sur-Ron fork for a Fox 40 27.5" fork that has a straight (non-tapered) 1 1/8" steer tube?

    Also wondering what hub spacing is needed. Is regular 110mm x 20mm spacing needed or do I need a fork with downhill 110mm x 20mm boost spacing? (I think downhill boost is a little different and moves the rotor closer to the fork leg than regular 110mm x 20mm)

    Can I use the stock headset as well?

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      Yes you can use stock headset, we sell a couple on the site. I don't know about that specific fork, best would be to take measurements of everything in order to narrow down what meets that specifications. For example this fork meets the specs needed https://sur-ron.markkitaoka.com/manitou-dorado-forks/

    • shleppy
      shleppy commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks.. Fox 40's have the same 1/8" non tapered steer tube as the Dorado and the same travel (203mm) .. all good there. The missing piece to the puzzle is the hub that is used on the Sur-Ron. Is it regular 20mm x 110mm or 20mm x 110mm DH (downhill) Boost? This would be good to know to keep Sur-Ron owners from buying the wrong fork (Fox 40's are spendy.. would be a huge bummer to buy one with the wrong hub spacing)

      FYI.. if the regular vs DH boost question above is confusing (as it was to me initially) .. the link below will describe the difference in detail

      https://www.notubes.com/news/say-wha...les-explained/
      Last edited by shleppy; 11-04-2019, 06:36 AM.

    Originally posted by CPG View Post
    I oil my chain by suspending the bike in my shop from the seat, and goosing the throttle while i slobber the chain lube on. Been doing that way for years, but just recently, I noticed a new noise, ONLY with no load, with the wheel suspended. Riding, it's as quiet as ever. I read up on the lube procedure, but only did the right side, using Mobile 28, with no difference being made. BBSHD, about 2500 miles. I know the noise issue has been beat to death, but I am unclear as to whether or not it matters if it only happens with no load on it. My next move is to run it up with the big ring gear off, to see if it still makes the same noise. I didn't know about that trick until doing some searching here. I've never messed with the left side, where I understand the plastic gear is, and I STILL don't see the logic of greasing a plastic gear.
    Well, now it's doing it while I'm riding, not under power yet but as soon as I quit pedaling and/or back off the throttle. It's the same noise I get when throttling up with the wheel free spinning, which I never got before, this is definitely a new noise. My next step will be to take the ring (??the larger diameter steel gear, on the right side) off again, and then hit the throttle, to see if the noise persists, and if it does then i'll tear into the left side. Maybe the noise is coming from the large right side BB bearing, but it's unacceptable even though no performance issues have arisen yet, clearly something is not right. More Mobile 28 on the steel gears does not feel like the solution, but if i can find nothing obviously wrong, when I put the right side case back on I guess slobbering in what seems an excessive amount will not hurt anyway.

    I have the big ring gear off, and the noise persists, it seems to be coming from the bearing the spur (the smaller) gear runs in, got to youtube to see how to get at next.

    A few hours later: It seems the problem is the roller bearings inside the nylon gear, sticking my finger in there didn't feel "rolly" at all, more like a bushing would feel. The teeth were fine, and as I have a very low geared Rohloff hub drive and the hot rod 1300 watt tuning plus like to do lots of wheel stands and generally ride it hard, that is encouraging. But for 20 bucks, and as long as I have apart, I'm not counting on the fresh application of Mobile 28 grease freeing the rollers up, I have a new one on the way. A bit of pain but this motor has 3 (4?) seasons of all the trail riding I have had time and energy for, without a lick of trouble. A few hours and less then 30 bucks is a small price to pay, and I now feel much better seeing and knowing how the motor is put together.

    One thing, the three phase wires can't pass through the case, (so I can't take the motor clear off, I have it hanging by a rope so I don't put any stress on them where they connect to the coil) the holes are too small for the connectors on the ends to pass through. If there is a way to release those connectors, short of cutting the wires off, I couldn't figure it out. I should mention I didn't remove the motor from the bracket bracket, as I didn't want to mess with the wiring from it to my breaker and then the battery. It would have meant a fair bit of extra work as that is all covered by my zip tied frame bag.
    Last edited by CPG; 10-29-2019, 12:58 PM.

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      That's a reasonable way to do it. Pull the secondary reduction gear first, then pinion, then nylon gear. None of that stuff needs to be there to bench test.
      https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...e-and-greasing

      Also check the clutch when you remove the secondary, just to rule that out as well.

      Apart from that there's not much else in the way of moving parts besides the rotor itself and a couple sealed bearings.

    I think I've mentioned before that I plan on doing a touring trip. I plan to do that in the spring of 2020. I do not want to get stranded on this trip and have no problem carrying back up parts for my BBSHD.

    The parts I'm thinking to carry spares of: 2 clutches, 2 nylon ring gears, 2 speed sensors, a spare parts kit, a thumb throttle, a Display. Is there anything else you would add to that list in the way of parts?

    The New Metal Gear available brings about questions of its own. Would swapping to the new metal gear option eliminate the nylon gear failure point? or just make things worse if they did fail? I dont beat on my bike but facts are facts I go 385 lbs and the bike is geared to haul me up the steep hills where I live (30T Mighty Mini 11-36 rear) all while towing a cargo trailer loaded with 90+lbs. Top Speed is 23 mph max on the flats.

    I currently have a 40T Mighty mini and a 11-46 10 speed Sunrace Cassette I may have installed by the local bike shop. From what I gathered I will still have the same low range with this combination but will pick up some more Top End. Not sure how I feel about that if its good or bad. I know it should increase my max speed on the flats which would increase the amount of mileage I could cover in a day. Not a speed demon by any means but I think its nice to have the ability to even if I dont use it all the time.

    I have my breakdown kit for basic bike maintenance, flats and chain breakage and carry a basic multimeter (the one Luna sells) in addition to my basic bike tools.

    Would you carry a spare controller too? I mean if that went my trip would be over. Is there anyway to tell which controller I would need without doing a tear down?

    My plan is to visit Niagara Falls do some site seeing in Buffalo and ride the Eerie Canalway Bike Trail while collecting any National Park Cancellation Stamps along the way.

    If this goes well I will plan to do the entire Empire Trail and maybe even keep going. But I dont want to get ahead of myself. The Erie Canalway Bike Trail is the trial run.

    Plan B is Van touring and using my ebike to explore towns.
    2018 Motobecane Boris Fat Bike BBSHD Build

    Comment


    • pure_mahem
      pure_mahem commented
      Editing a comment
      The cross country from DC to the West Coast was my initial plan! This is my shake down to see if I can actually do it and if its feasible with my limitations.

    • pure_mahem
      pure_mahem commented
      Editing a comment
      Is that Pinion easily swapped out? After reading those articles it seemed like the solution was to get a new motor core. Making me wonder if I would be able to fix that on the road or it would be a trip ender anyway.

      How much can actually practically be done on the side of a road? The ones that seem doable are the parts I already listed. I it practical to think Id be able to change that pinion gear on the side of the road or the secondary reduction gear. For practicality purposes what should I have as spare parts if this happens so I just have a complication not a trip ender?

      I know this is a lot of what ifs? But Murphy man he's usually right! Should I have a 2nd BBSHD unit on stand by to ship out? What would you do? I mean on this trip in particular it's not that big of a deal. I call and get a ride home at worse. But, if this goes well I will be on the road for the long haul and looking at those logistics. Parts arent always readily available. I'd hate to be in PoDunk USA stranded because of a part that's easily replaceable and I just dont have it. I have no issue with being down for a week or so waiting on a parcel in the post to do a repair. But, I think waiting months for that part is impractical.

      Ultimately I probably should have another BBSHD unit ready to go but thinking that may be overkill.
      Last edited by pure_mahem; 10-30-2019, 12:57 PM.

    • ncmired
      ncmired commented
      Editing a comment
      Warning - I'm just typing out loud here.

      How much can actually practically be done on the side of a road? Great question.

      For long-haul, multi-day rides on flattish, converted rail or canal paths, is a mid drive the right answer versus a gear reduction hub motor? Is a hub motor (like the Bafang 500 watt geared motor) easier to repair and carry spares for?

    Is the Sur Ron Ludicrous R Taillight/Turn signal kit going to be sold as a stand alone accessory for the regular Sur Ron X-bike?

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      You would have to ask Eric Hicks that, none of us support folks know anything about future plans for unreleased products.

    Hi, after about 7500 miles of commuting I finally took off the cover to the secondary gear reduction because I started feeling a vibration in addition to the squealing it had been making under load. I realize that I have grossly neglected the drive and have never added/replaced the grease. So as I crack open the case it looks like salt bay had seasoned my drive with stripper glitter. It turns out the main steel gear has mostly turned to powdered metal and whatever grease was in the drive originally had long since cooked off.

    My plan is to replace and liberally lube:
    The steel gear with the assembly that Luna offers
    New pinion from Luna
    Nylon gear from Luna
    Bearings for the pinion. The main one that is pressed into the case and the one that is in the nylon gear cover plate/bearing block.

    My question is does Luna or another bafang dealer stock them and if not what are the specs.

    Also, side note: I put it back together and added a bit of Mobil 28 to the pinion so I could commute to work today and its purring away quietly but still with the vibration from the steel gear with light weight teeth.

    Thanks!




    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      The pressed in bearings are not typically replaceable. But they're sealed bearings and should be fine. In theory you can remove the seal with a pick and add more grease if you wanted to but I would not do it unless necessary. Rotor bearing on the rotor where it meets the housing uses a NSK 628VV bearing if you need a replacement.

      Here's how to repack a sealed bearing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Np5dcns64Fs

    Per BBS02 Kit: I seemed to have lost the hardware that fastens the front chain ring's plastic guard onto the front chain ring... can someone share with me the specs for those screws? Appreciate the help!

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      Got a Jamis Roughneck fat bike and want to put a electric rear wheel on the beast so I can commute to work in the winter.... any ideas as to where to start? None of the local bike shops want to sell conversion kits, just new bikes....

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      I bought a BBS02B mounted on a 2019 Diamondback Hook. The wire from the motor to the shifter switch was just a TAD short on this frame and stretched quite tightly to connect. A bump caused this plug to disconnect; the lower plug fell into the chain and is gone... suggestions???

      Chip

      Comment


      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        Sounds like you may need a new controller.

      Not sure the controller has been damaged. I see some indications it may be okay; I have to get that wire fixed first. Any chance of acquring a set of the plugs that got eaten?

      Comment


      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        Is it throwing an error? If so then it's probably not going to work. If you can separate any severed wires from touching eachother and run it like that then maybe okay. Here's a source for HIGO plugs https://www.e-bike-technologies.de/index.php/en/

      Thank you! This is just excellent customer service. When I go to wire up the new female plug, would it be safe to assume the ground will go across from the indexing pin; the other two leads on either side?

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