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    Hello, Got a question about right battery for a 36V 500W 22A conversion kit. 26" front. Bike keeps stopping when riding. Bike works ok on stand all functions ol, Battery fully charged.
    Battery is a 36V 500W 10K AH, 25A style.Do I need a better BMS and AH . I have to keep turning the control off then back on to continue to ride.
    When Bike is on stand I can hook up the battery charger to battery and it will run fine.

    Comment


    • HIGHVOLTAGE
      HIGHVOLTAGE commented
      Editing a comment
      Depends, could be a few different reasons it's happening. What voltage level is the battery when it starts acting this way? Are the connectors between the battery and the motor in good condition? Take a look at them and see if they're damaged or marked up in any weird way.

      Also, put the bike on the stand and then while running, try and shake the battery to replicate bumps to see if it shuts off on you. If it does, you'll know it's a BMS issue.

    On closer inspection, I can see that's not going to work. I have been all morning trying to find a wiring diagram. Can you tell me how to wire the three-pin female connector in the shift sensor for my
    BBS02B?

    Comment


    Hi, I just wanted to ask if this charger would work with a 14s 4p pack of 26650 cells at 20 amp hours and 52v for a magic pie 5 conversion kit also does it ship to the U.k thanks all for your time.
    Luna Charger 52V Advanced 300W Ebike Charger

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      Yes, our 52v advanced charger is a li-ion charger working with 14s.

      As long as the plug on your battery is xt60 female to match the xt60 male on the charger, or you have an adapter, you should be good to go.

      Yes we can ship to UK.

    Hi all I just made a post about a charger above this post and I have added the batteries too. sorry I should of done this 1st. ty. Brand Name: LiiitoKala

    Model: Lii-50A

    Type: Li-Ion 26650
    Nominal Capacity: 5000mah(4900-5000mah)


    Nominal Voltage: 3.7V

    Weight: 95g±1g

    Rechargeable Battery: Yes

    Rechargeable Times: Up to 500 times

    internal resistance: ≤20mΩ

    Limited Charge Voltage: 4.2v

    Working Voltage: 2.75-4.2V
    Size: 65.8mm x 26.8mm (Diameter)


    Comment


      Hi,

      I received a Luna 48v Panasonic 13.5ah Shark Pack yesterday. The connector on the housing does not match the connector on my motor. Can I get an adapter, and/or can I need to cut my old adapter off and crimp/splice/sodder it onto the new housing?

      Here is a photo of the old connector on my bike:

      Click image for larger version

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      And here is a photo of the new connector I got from Luna:

      Click image for larger version

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      Thank you!

      Comment


      • HIGHVOLTAGE
        HIGHVOLTAGE commented
        Editing a comment
        You have to cut it off and re-crimp/solder.

      • zberke
        zberke commented
        Editing a comment
        Thanks HIGHVOLTAGE. Do I want to cut off and re-crimp solder the old connector onto the new housing, or do I want to get a new connector and the crimp/solder that onto the motor wire?

      • zberke
        zberke commented
        Editing a comment
        Hi,

        I cut off the end of the old connector, but I'm noticing it has 4 wires. I was expecting it to have two, based on looking at the pigtails you guys sell.

        If I cut off the connector from the new housing, in order to crimp on the old connector, am I going to find 2 wires or 4? If I find 2, what should I do with these other two little wires?

        I can't put a photo in my comment, so I'll upload it in another thread. Thank you!

      (starting a new thread so I can upload a photo)

      Hi,

      I cut off the end of the old connector, but I'm noticing it has 4 wires. I was expecting it to have two, based on looking at the pigtails you guys sell.

      If I cut off the connector from the new housing, in order to crimp on the old connector, am I going to find 2 wires or 4? If I find 2, what should I do with these other two little wires?

      Thank you!

      Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_20191101_094508.jpg Views:	8 Size:	1.87 MB ID:	96221

      Click image for larger version

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      Last edited by zberke; 11-01-2019, 10:04 AM.

      Comment


      • zberke
        zberke commented
        Editing a comment
        My motor is an "eRAD" BBS02 48V 750W -- see pictures that I just added to the post. It's about 4/5 years old. I believe it is a Bafang.

        Does the advice to ignore the litte Green/Yellow wires still stand with this additional info?

        Thank you!

      • HIGHVOLTAGE
        HIGHVOLTAGE commented
        Editing a comment
        Yup, it should be fine. Just tape them off and tuck them away and just focus on the Red/Black

      • zberke
        zberke commented
        Editing a comment
        Awesome, thanks so much! Going to grab some Butts to crimp these off with.

      Adding pictures of my motor, for my previous question because the edited ones didn't seem to come through.

      Does the advice to ignore the litte Green/Yellow wires still stand with this additional info?
      Click image for larger version

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      Click image for larger version

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      Thank you for your help, and sorry for starting so many threads!

      Comment


        Got my motor all plugged into my new battery (see threads with HIGHVOLTAGE earlier today), but it won't turn on.

        Battery is fully charged. Put the on/off switch into both positions.

        Noticing that the "check battery" button on the battery itself doesn't light anything up -- is that a problem?

        How can I troubleshoot?

        Click image for larger version

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        Thank you!
        -Zach
        Attached Files
        Last edited by zberke; 11-01-2019, 02:46 PM.

        Comment


        • zberke
          zberke commented
          Editing a comment
          It does this at all times, in cradle or otherwise.

          So, don't try the jumping instructions, then?

        • zberke
          zberke commented
          Editing a comment
          Oh and it's not the light bar led that is staying red. It is the light on the charger.

        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          Yes we will probably want to try to jump it but are going to want to coordinate a little more closely, please email support. For example we'll want to make sure the battery is not on the cradle when we do that, to eliminate any of the wiring or the motor as a cause for it to trip the BMS. Battery's probably fine, if I had to guess, maybe the wiring job shorted it, but sounds like we may want to get a few multimeter readings before proceeding with a proposed solution. If you do not have a multimeter I would get one. You can also do a continuity test to confirm your wiring job is good on the cradle to controller section.

        I am interested in buying the Luna 52V Advanced charger, but I need a 3 pin XLR connector. Can the XT60 end be replaced with a male XLR by Luna for a fee?

        Comment


        • Lord Polymath
          Lord Polymath commented
          Editing a comment
          Ok thank you for replying. I will probably use an adapter like this then: https://electrobikeworld.com/product...r-male-adapter

        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          Looks doable assuming you need actual xlr and no something that is merely similar to xlr. Also, be sure to check the polarity matches the battery before plugging in by using a multimeter

        • Lord Polymath
          Lord Polymath commented
          Editing a comment
          Thanks again! I will check the polarity.

        Broken wires Minor confirmation question attaching barrel to power line blue brown wires brown goes to positive correct and if I have reversed wires how can I tell when battery plugged in regarding 48v advanced 300w Luna charger
        Last edited by Annon; 11-02-2019, 02:36 PM. Reason: Thank you for the link battery is charging

        Comment


        My BBSHD started making a weird noise, as if there was a small metal piece bouncing around when I would use the throttle or pedal assist. No sound if I just pedal with the motor turned off, no noise back pedaling, nothing like that.

        I thought this would be a good time to pull it apart and make sure everything was greased properly and all and see if I could identify what was making the noise.

        Everything was going along smoothly until I tried to get the two halves apart. It was tough. When I finally got it apart the rotor and motor core were stuck to the wrong half, instead of sitting in the stator, it almost seems stuck in where the nylon reduction gear sits. It still spins fine, but I can't get it apart. I'm stumped and I don't want to force it.

        Thoughts?
        Last edited by micah.michalski; 11-02-2019, 01:46 PM. Reason: Added a little detail

        Comment


        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          Can you maybe rotate the pinion gear from the other side? That might help free it up

        • micah.michalski
          micah.michalski commented
          Editing a comment
          I tried that while pulling, while not pulling, clockwise, counter clockwise. Spinning the core spins the pinion gear and vise versa but it doesn't want to come away for some reason.

          I've put it back together and back on the bike, regreasing what I could, but the sound persists (because I couldn't get it all the way apart, I'm sure). Seems weird it would stick like that but still rotate freely.

        • micah.michalski
          micah.michalski commented
          Editing a comment
          The sound starts to be heard around 800-850 watts and continues above that. It goes away if the motor drops below that. I'm worried it's a precursor to something actually breaking. I am planning to try to tear it down again tomorrow and see if it's somehow ready to come apart.

          If I still can't get it apart is this something I could make an appointment and come by Luna to get some help?

        Just received my 2nd X-1 Enduro on Friday and assembled it this afternoon. The first one works great. However, this one has the Lubricious controller, and is not working. When I turn it on, the display shows battery voltage 0V, blinking. After a few seconds it shows "Error 30". I've searched the forums and know it's a communication error. I have unplugged and replugged both connections to the display. No fix. I swapped the display from the working X-1 onto this bike. Working display won't work on this bike, so it's not a display problem. Have removed bash plate from the bottom of the motor, but can't see any connections to check.

        Any ideas?

        Comment


          Fixed the problem. Started shaking around the wires to the display where they enter the frame. Display stayed on and error went away. Appears as though either the wire going to the throttle or the display were kinked due to the handlebar placement during shipping. It works for now, but a little worried about the problem coming back. I'm going to remove the throttle anyway, so hopefully it was that wire.

          Comment


            Originally posted by CPG View Post

            Well, now it's doing it while I'm riding, not under power yet but as soon as I quit pedaling and/or back off the throttle. It's the same noise I get when throttling up with the wheel free spinning, which I never got before, this is definitely a new noise. My next step will be to take the ring (??the larger diameter steel gear, on the right side) off again, and then hit the throttle, to see if the noise persists, and if it does then i'll tear into the left side. Maybe the noise is coming from the large right side BB bearing, but it's unacceptable even though no performance issues have arisen yet, clearly something is not right. More Mobile 28 on the steel gears does not feel like the solution, but if i can find nothing obviously wrong, when I put the right side case back on I guess slobbering in what seems an excessive amount will not hurt anyway.

            I have the big ring gear off, and the noise persists, it seems to be coming from the bearing the spur (the smaller) gear runs in, got to youtube to see how to get at next.

            A few hours later: It seems the problem is the roller bearings inside the nylon gear, sticking my finger in there didn't feel "rolly" at all, more like a bushing would feel. The teeth were fine, and as I have a very low geared Rohloff hub drive and the hot rod 1300 watt tuning plus like to do lots of wheel stands and generally ride it hard, that is encouraging. But for 20 bucks, and as long as I have apart, I'm not counting on the fresh application of Mobile 28 grease freeing the rollers up, I have a new one on the way. A bit of pain but this motor has 3 (4?) seasons of all the trail riding I have had time and energy for, without a lick of trouble. A few hours and less then 30 bucks is a small price to pay, and I now feel much better seeing and knowing how the motor is put together.

            One thing, the three phase wires can't pass through the case, (so I can't take the motor clear off, I have it hanging by a rope so I don't put any stress on them where they connect to the coil) the holes are too small for the connectors on the ends to pass through. If there is a way to release those connectors, short of cutting the wires off, I couldn't figure it out. I should mention I didn't remove the motor from the bracket bracket, as I didn't want to mess with the wiring from it to my breaker and then the battery. It would have meant a fair bit of extra work as that is all covered by my zip tied frame bag.
            All done! LUNA shipped out (USPS) my new nylon gear the same day i ordered, though I ordered mid afternoon mountain time, thanks! So, for less then 30 bucks, the noise is gone.

            Nothing real difficult about the job, just a bit finicky in places. Meaning, take your time, watch all the videos on the process, and don't create another problem! One tip: right when I was almost done, i had a hard time getting the right side case back on, until I theorized that the clutch pawls were hanging up, so I rotated the shaft in the direction that would cause the pawls (?) to NOT extend, and it popped right in. I still don't know for sure if the problem was the bearing in the nylon gear or not, but it sure SOUNDED like it was, and it DIDN't sound what I'd imagine a nylon gear in need of lube would sound like. On my other BBSHD, which has 3 times the miles this one has, I don't plan on opening it up until it makes "the sound." It's just enough of a hassle to make me not want to do it until I need to, and the parts cost is so low either way I don't the financial incentive to messing with it if it ain't broke.

            Comment


            • paxtana
              paxtana commented
              Editing a comment
              Glad to hear you figured it out!

            Hi guy's I've been waiting to order a X1 in Mid size frame with the LUD option but keep missing these preorders its the 3rd time now. I signed up to the email to notify but never get an email I have a gmail address and checked my spam and promotions tab. Could you please tell me when is the next preorder for the MID size frame I've saved up this summer and am ready to purchase. Thank you!

            Comment


            • paxtana
              paxtana commented
              Editing a comment
              We have not done three rounds of preorders. The sizes currently on the listing are leftovers from the first pre-order that are ready to ship. Once they are gone in 2-3 weeks we will begin taking preorders for the second production run. Likely you have not been notified about the medium because we do not have either it or the pre-order yet
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