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[CC Rider]

[CC Rider]

You are correct

[TaylorN]

CC Rider, I saw in your review of the Luna Wolf Pup 4AH battery that you benchmarked it against the Mighty Mini Samsung 30q 6AH battery. Im torn because the Mighty Mini seems like a better deal because its 6AH vs 4AH. But you said that the Wolf Pup gets more miles per AH. Do you remember the relative difference?

4ah vs 6 ah is 50% increase in apparent battery size. but the price is only 20% higher (wolfpup=$250 and mightymini=$295).

Lets say the wolf pup can go 10 miles @ 4AH, does the mighty mini go 15 miles @ 6AH? or does the mighty mini only go 12 miles? If the mighty mini goes 12 miles, that's a 20% increase in miles over the wolf pup and since the cost is 20% more, that matches the mileage increase per dollar. Though if by magic of newer battery technology the Wolf Pup goes the same distance as the Mighty Mini regardless of AH ratings, then it would be a no brainer to buy the Wolf pup. I suppose if the Might Mini was within 10-15% of the Wolf Pup I'd just buy the Wolf Pup.

However, If the mighty mini does get more mileage (at least 20% more) and if I factor in your other comment about wanting to buy a 2nd wolf pup, I'd rather just pay a little more now to eek out 2-5 more miles (per the relative example) than to buy a second supplemental wolf pup. I already have a giant/heavy (12lb) 17AH battery, but am looking for a small lighterweight battery for some simple single track riding around here which would never be much more than 10miles (probably just 5 miles of motor use at PAS 2/3 with 200-500ft elevation gain per mile). I can always strap on the 17AH battery for a longer distance ride.

What do you think?

Thanks!

[paxtana]

Mighty mini was discontinued a long time ago

[MBR_Bikes]

Hi there,

I have a customer who brought in one of your Fixed Stealth models, and it seems like there's an issue with the clutch in the motor.

The pedals free-spin in the hub, and it sounds like an engagement issue. Is this a case of replacing the motor? I haven't taken anything apart just yet, I'm still in the process of diagnosing.

[HIGHVOLTAGE]

You'll wanna email support@lunacycle.com with an order # and video of the issue.

[paxtana]

I think this is the same issue we heard from customer yesterday. The case is currently being evaluated by our technician Seb. If you want we can CC you on the reply

[FatMarty]

I have LunaTic cranks for cyclone and would like to know the thread dimensions for the crank arm end caps.
Shown in my picture is a puller cap for x type crank arms; they are too large for the LunaTic.

Also: if customer service is reading I need to know why my mini cyclone kit, order #93283, shows ready to ship but not given to UPS for the last week or so?

[paxtana]

Not too sure on the puller, I used a regular park tool crank puller on my Luna tick crankset last I needed to remove them and had no issue. If you email support and talk with Seb he may have more info.

I think on the mini shop just needed to do some last minute stuff to ship but I have notified shop to look into it and will get back to you on email.

[csipkay]

Wire Repair for damaged V1 Wolfpack. The battery popped off the little magnets with a bump in the road and the wires contacted the chain and gears, severing them.

How could this be repaired given the construction of the battery? Is it possible I could find someone to do the repair locally? Could it be shipped back to Luna for repair?

Thanks.

[HIGHVOLTAGE]

Yikes, that's not good. Make sure those wires don't touch. I think you might be out of luck here though as the rest of the pack is potted. Discharge side is still good...maybe possible to solder on leads? Check with a local hobby shop in your area that deals with R/C cars and drones, they might be able to attempt to fix it for you but I think she might be done for...

[paxtana]

I have worked with that length and fixed it. Sure will be tricky, but not impossible.

Get new XT60 pigtail, cut off existing one. Protect each end with tape and work on one wire at a time. Strip back black wire much as possible, and solder new black wire to it. Do same with red wire. In this instance you will need to use several coats of liquid electrical tape afterwards, ideally using some silicone tape on each individual wire after.

Our colleague Joel lives near you. He might be able to solder it. He works our phones if you want to call Luna. He would probably need to charge an hourly rate as it will be tricky work.

[ordnaj3la]

So this happened... where I can find a new rotor? Or any suggestions on what to do to get back on the road? At first I thought I peanut buttered my nylon gear, made a horrible grinding noise. When I opened her up, I was sadly mistaken :/. Thank you!

[paxtana]

It was related to a series of Bafang production runs spanning somewhere between 6-9 months. Should be fine on new ones, and we never saw this on version A BBSHD at all.

We have cores on the site, this includes rotor. We can hook you up at a big discount. Hit us up.

[ordnaj3la]

thanks paxtana! Where exactly do I contact you guys?

[paxtana]

You can email support@lunacycle.com or just message me

[FatMarty]

Thank you Paxtana.
The order shipped.
The puller threads are 22 mm and the bolts are 8 mm.
I believe FSA makes a set of self extraction bolts for this size.

[paxtana]

Glad to hear it. And glad to see you around man, it's been a while!

[Cavi]

ok, soo I moved all of my e-gear over to a new to me full suspension Kona Dawg Primo. The BBSHD moved over uneventfully. Before moving it over I had it serviced, new 9 gear cassette, new derailer and shifter. in theory all was setup even new chain then they pulled the crank and BB. I then installed my gear, I have a good couple of mm clearance for the motor, and maybe 1mm for the sproket to the chainguard. I am running the luna Eclipse 42 tooth. The bike works and the perfect center for the chain seems to be gear 4 out of 9. I can shift fine to higher gears, but it does not shift right to the lower gears, not even with the motor off. Even though I had it all adjusted before, could the new motor and sprocket have thrown off the adjustment for the derailer? Is a 9 gear casette too much?
My current plan is to take it back to the bike shop tomorrow for them to check the adjustment. Other ideas? BTW when I say it does not work in gears 1 - 3 it skips and does not feel like it is in the gear

[pure_mahem]

Sounds like a limit screw on the derailleur. Bike shop should have you right up an running. Park Tool has a good youtube video on adjusting a derailleur as well as GMBN Tech. It's good stuff to know. If you feel confident after watching those videos no harm in seeing if you can fix the issue yourself. You can still always take it to the bike shop and it will be the same fix.

Do your adjusting with the unit powered off and the battery unplugged.

[Cavi]

I already scheduled to take it back to the shop. FYI, I also installed the 160 leki crank arms and I love them, definitely worth the upgrade price!!!

[Cavi]

got the bike back, turns out the deraulier mount was bent, so now all is well, without power it goes in to all gears, powered it does 1-6 or 7 of the 9 gears, the top two it seems to skip teeth if under power but who needs them anyway!!!

[tesla]

dear folks,
might it be possible to get a wheel set of your fucking nice BABE or even only the backwheel with this god damn 5 speed sturmey archer gearing?
can't get it in germany, so it might be nice to get it from you
.....kind regards

thomas

[paxtana]

Sorry we are not parting out our brand new bikes at this time..

[tklop]

Hey, Paxtana (or whomever else might be able to clue me in here)...

I've got a DD motor, which needs a Hall Sensor Replacement.

The Hall Sensors (and their circuit card) are glued in place with a sort-of brownish-clearish monkey-snot looking type of manufacturing-glue...

My question is two-part, but hopefully simple--relating to this repair:

1) What can I use to safely dissolve (or soften) this "monkey-snot" ---so I can get the old hall-sensors loose? I don't want to go experimenting with chemicals, lest I damage the plastic, or other synthetic materials in the motor, and I do not wish to exert physical violence upon them either (prying with a screwdriver is contra-indicated).

2) I expect I'll need to renew this "monkey-snot glue", to get the new Hall Sensors to stay put. If I knew what to call it--I could search for it--and for a local vendor. Any idea what the "monkey snot" is exactly?

Good luck with your projects, everybody!

All the best,

Tklop

[paxtana]

Sorry I got no idea, maybe someone else does. Have you tried contacting the manufacturer?
I would reckon on replacing it that gorilla glue would be good.

[tklop]

Fair enough. I'm in regular contact with the manufacturer--see what he recommends for softening it up--take care of the removal-stage with his help. Being an industrial manufacturer, in China--I did figure he might use some glue-product I either can't get (or can't translate)...

I've no idea what the original stuff is. It sort-of looks similar to some spray-adhesives I used in the Air Force--except that those were pretty volatile and flammable--so I'm not sure they'd be so ideal for this application... Also not so sure about heat-resitance...

But Gorilla Glue? Right on. Wasn't sure if it'd take the heat--but Gorilla Glue sounds alright for the reinstall. Thx paxtana That solves half the problem right there! :-)

[Tommycat]

This has gotten recommendations, as well as Super glue (Gorilla brand)

[rschoi_75]

Hi paxtana, I got an email that my new ebike is ready for pick up. How to I go about doing that?
I.e. what time is the shop open,? Do I have to call in before coming or just show up?

[paxtana]

Respond to the person that sent you the email. Typically we are looking at wednesday-friday 12-4pm. No need to call unless it is some special time

[tesla]

B.T.W. i want a rhino cargo...........

[Cavi]

soo, I am not planning on running brake sensors, and probably not the shifter sensor. Is there any reason not to just clip them off the harness? For the brake sensors I guess I could always buy a new mid harness but that would not work if I clipped the shift sensor. Will I cause any real issues not running the shift sensor? It seems to me that it is just one mor thing for me to hit and mess up when riding trails.....

[HIGHVOLTAGE]

Well, don't clip them off or you'll potentially short the system. Just leave them unplugged and cap off the ends with electrical tape.

There is a guy who makes custom Higo connectors and harnesses if you want to clean up your wiring:

https://www.e-bike-technologies.de/index.php/en/wiring-harnesses/bafang-bbs01-bbs02-bbshd-en

Also for the Shift Sensor, idk, it's up to you. There are definitely some benefits to it but you can also manually shift by just letting off a throttle and then shifting and then throttling again.

[Cavi]

Soo a couple of suggestions, first off you need to make the case for the Wolf PUP differently, instead of molding the velcro straps in to the case maybe mold only some loops that a velcro strap can slide thru, as there are many like me that use the magnet mount and then the straps just look bad, like an afterthought. I know I could cut them and I might but then who knows I might want to run an extra one and need them. If you ran only the loops it would be more convenient. Second comment, and I am sure you have already heard this, releasing a 6Ah version of the PUP would be a real hit, or even maybe a 8? I think the 6 would be awesome as it would give that extra mileage that alot of us just need for peace of mind without having to go to the full on Wolf, as we do not want the full weight of a Wolf. the 6Ah, would be close in range to what alot of the big brand names use on their bikes such as Specialized.....

[HIGHVOLTAGE]

Not a bad idea. This thread is more for troubleshooting and not suggestions though. I'd definitely recommend heading over to Fast Electric Bike on Facebook if you want to throw suggestions Eric's way though. That's where he hangs out and will most likely be able to see this.

You can also post it here if you want:

https://electricbike.com/forum/forum/ask-lunacycle/product-availability-announcements-and-questions

[Bbhdman]

I wish to buy the black box programmer but befor I commit to I need to know if it contains the 48v. Limitless program as that is the one I am most keen to try.

[HIGHVOLTAGE]

I don't think it has it but you can always copy it over or copy the settings and then save it as a profile.

[Cavi]

I know I found it before but for the life of me I cannot find the link to the video on the basic programming for the BBSHD Also looking through the programs, I had switched my bbshd to the limitless program, but have since modded the power levels on the pas positions to be a bit more linear as the first 4 levels are set to almost nothing. However I have a few questions 1:on the limitless all 9 settings have the speed % set to 100, while the stock BFANG and stock Luna have different percentages for some. What does it do having them set to 100%? 2: the stock BBSHD has the crank pulses set to 5 while the limitless has it set to 2 Again what does this do? I would have thought this would have been a fixed number according to a harware pas plate?

[HIGHVOLTAGE]

Much of the info you need can be found here in this thread. I wouldn't bother messing with the other settings unless you know what you're doing.

https://electricbike.com/forum/forum/builds/custom-ebike-motor-programming/bbshd-programming/43287-basics-of-programming-bbs02-and-bbshd-mid-drives

Speed limit just caps off your speed vs current which caps off the current.

[Cavi]

for the BBSHD with a 52v battery what should the current limit be set to? What is the max that the stock comtroller will handle?

[HIGHVOLTAGE]

30 amps is the max. You can go with that or anywhere below. Most riders go with 30 though for that sweet acceleration boost.