now that the bike is runnign and the gears are all setup, it runs great with no power in all gears. Once I turn on the system then it runs great fron gear 1 to maybe 6 of 9, then if I put it one of the higher gears it feels like it skips, not sure if it is actually jumping teeth on the casette or something in the motor clutch? Ideas on how to figure out what the issue is?
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Lekkie is not going to fix the chainline issue if the Eclipse did not. Eclipse has better offset than lekkie on any tooth size 42t or larger, and if your chainline is wonky you need it to be inbound, not outbound. See the offset comparison page.
Yes it can be intimidating to rework a cassette if it is riveted together but cassettes are easily changed out, and that link I provided goes over a version that is easily swapped around. Or you could just switch the hub to an IGH.
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I just crossed the wires on my new barrel connector....bam....big spark and stinky....Now my battery won't charge .......I opened the battery and see the little board near the charge port.....can I change this board and start charging again????
thanks
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Maybe, if the BMS was not fried and you can find that board. I think we need more info though... namely, what order# and a pic of this board and a pic of the port.
For all we know you might just need to change the charge port itself. If there is a plug going into that port you can test for voltage by unplugging that and testing with a multimeter for voltage
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I got the new charging port......thanks a lot .....I will come by and visit this april and buy you lunch......I'm sure you've heard that before...but....I'll be by...
wondering if you have a picture of the wires hooked up to this charge port before you silicone it all up.....just want to make sure I get the right wires on the right contacts....If not......I'll figure it out....thanks again.....
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Glad to hear it. I do not have anything like wiring diagram for it. I would highly recommend to use a multimeter to check that you have the polarity the right way. For example plugging the charger into the port without hooking up the wires, then putting your multimeter on it and seeing if it has positive or negative polarity https://youtu.be/s8au8ves-SY
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Hi, hope you can help. I just picked, up, for free, a used Chinese e-bike. It had a blown accessory fuse and no lights or horn was working. I replaced the fuse and for a few seconds, things worked. As soon as I turned on the lights, a bulb exploded and the control head started smoking. I quickly disconnected power. What would be your first guess as to the cause? A grounded-short? With the fuse removed (and accessories off-line), the bike (and motor) runs perfectly. Any thoughts on what I should troubleshoot first?
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Originally posted by al_ukash View PostGood morning,
I have lost a front axle bolt on my sur-ron and wondering how I can get a replacement, already went looking through all the hardware stores and tried to find one online. Anywhere you can point me to? It's the DNM volcano fork.
Also, motorcycle repair shops should carry metric hardware - look for the smaller, independent ones.Last edited by ncmired; 01-20-2020, 11:52 AM.
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So my bike was stolen recently. I still have the 52v Shark pack that I bought when I did the conversion. I've been working on another bike and I'm wondering is I can get a replacement rack for the battery. It is the older mount, 4 prong towards the middle of the battery. I'm heart broken over the theft and can't imagine what use can be made of the bike short of stripping the BBSHD off it. However I'm looking forward to a new build and bringing this battery along would bring some continuity to the project..
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Sorry to hear about your bike, that sucks..
I got one newer 5pin cradle, none of the older 4pin versions though unfortunately...
You could always use it in a battery bag by modding it so you have xt90 running out of the discharge wiring inside of the battery. Here are a couple examples
If that's no good maybe you could find an empty replacement case somewhere, but there are so many versions of that case and the cells will only fit in the one it was designed for. So unlikely to find what you are looking for if it is the older shark version.
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If I can figure out a way to mount it securely, I can output through the charge connector. I did that for testing lighting etc. on the old bike. Don't like it as 52v is a lot of dc. Given the rate bikes are stolen, I'd think back stock on this type of stuff would be a good idea. Just sayin'
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No, you can not output through the charge connector. For starters that shark charge connector is rated for about 7A at best. Additionally it would bypass the BMS so when it fails (and it will fail) the BMS will not cut power. That would be a major fire risk.
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I have what is probably a dumb question, but I own a BBSHD with your hotrod programming and controller. What is the ludicrous BBSHD I hear about? Also, is the Batt Man reliable to be used as a fuel guage? is there another option for something like the Batt Man as you are out of stock. All I want is power used and power left I do not care about miles traveledLast edited by Cavi; 01-21-2020, 12:28 PM.
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With the BBS02 kit do you supply the “68mm” motor unit and leave off the lock nut with a 73mm bottom bracket OR the “73mm” motor unit (I believe BF makes both) and add spacers for use with a 68mm bottom bracket. I ask because in my application (which has a 68mm bottom bracket) I need to space it out towards the drive side ~8mm to avoid the chain stay. My guess is I could make either work but it would be a lot easier with the 73mm chassis.
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AFAIK, 76mm is gonna be a big and barely stretch for the 68mm only BBS02 - longer (usually 100mm, not 73mm) motors were aftermarket creations.
If you're suspecting stay clearance problems, I add offset left crank arm to the "probably gonna need as well" list, because of the shorter BBS02 left spindle.Last edited by ncmired; 01-21-2020, 02:11 PM.
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Originally posted by ncrkd View PostAFAIK, 76mm is gonna be a big and barely stretch for the 68mm only BBS02 - longer (usually 100mm, not 73mm) motors were aftermarket creations.
If you're suspecting stay clearance problems, I add offset left crank arm to the "probably gonna need as well" list, because of the shorter BBS02 left spindle.
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Can i get an opinion from people here if the battery and the motor are salvageable? Looks like I had a minor fire or burnout on my bike between the battery and the motor. the connections melted and so did the shielding. i'm thinking I can replace the wires on the motor but I'm afraid of the output of the battery which is a 48v Shark GA 13.5 ah that is about 2.5 years old. there was a bunch of salt build up on the wires and i rinsed it off prior to the burn. the picture with the burnt connection is to the motor . the naked wire is from the battery.
3 PhotosLast edited by superben999; 01-23-2020, 09:51 AM.
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Still looks salvagable, although your lead will be half as long if you replace the cabling. Hopefully the controller didn't short out. You might need a new one after this if it doesn't power up after fixing the wires. I'd also check the voltage of the battery to make sure the BMS is still working. Salt is pretty common on roads this time of the year for a lot of cities. Gotta protect your connectors from it or they can corrode and melt.
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HIGHVOLTAGE thanks for the reply. I'll give it a try.
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Recently bought a sur ron and my friend crashed it the other day, the kickstand mount sheered right off as intended but now the kickstand sensor wire is broken and the speedometer and headlight will not turn on. Any suggestions?1 Photo
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I don’t see a link for removing the kickstand sensors in the modifications section, only brake sensors.
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