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    Hi Mark!
    The sound could be a few different things, most likely is probably the chain slipping a bit, and you might want to check whether it happens in particular gears more than other gears and check how good your chainline looks. You could also try out one of the aftermarket chainrings that has narrow/wide teeth if you are using stock currently. Narrow/wide has a much better fit for the chain.

    Alternately it could be that the motor is banging up against the frame when you hit the throttle. So you might want to check how tight you have the lockrings and check your clearance. If it's neither of these things it might be internal, and you can pop it open to have a look, or email support if you need further advice on it. See this section on the wiki for how to pull it apart if needed, but it's likely the chain. https://www.reddit.com/r/ebikes/wiki...roubleshooting

    For the shark notification that's because we ran out after we shipped your order and it's temporarily backlogged.

    For the display what you are seeing is voltage sag. We cover this briefly on the documentation for the battery.
    Why does my voltage drop after a full charge?
    All lithium batteries have a little voltage sag from where they are when fully charged. The amount of sag is proportional to the number of cycles and how much its been through (heat, repeated deep discharge, pulling more current than the stated continuous discharge rate, age).
    Other times you may see sag is when pulling a lot of power from the pack, especially when the charge is getting low on the pack.






    For the display you can't really go off of the gauge for anything other than a vague idea of the state of charge, that's why the more advanced displays show voltage. You can combine the information you have on voltage with the voltage tables we have on the battery documentation to get a better idea of how much is left in the battery. Additionally most displays cannot set the gauge for a 52v nominal pack so it's going to be even more off than it would be with a 48v nominal battery.

    Comment


    • Mark_B
      Mark_B commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks Paxtana, the battery info is really helpful--I changed my DPC-18 to display voltage and with the chart I feel much more informed about the state the battery. A followup to that though, my DPC-18 has four pages of battery related info, but it's all blank--there are no values for anything. Is that just because the BMS doesn't support it, or is there something I need to do in order to start seeing this info?

      On the noise issue, I suppose it could be the chain, although the sound doesn't seem very chain-like. Everything else you mentioned is good--lockrings, chainring (Lekkie Bling Ring). You're probably right about the chain but I'm gonna keep an eye and ear on it as I go through the gears. Thanks for the links, I might just pull it apart for peace of mind.

      And thanks for verifying that I have a 13.5 ah battery, I'm relieved.

    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      The battery info on the DPC 18 is not applicable to normal batteries, it is only usable with some battery Bafang plans to roll out that uses a special BMS and has a special plug to communicate with controller. We cover this on the new documentation for display
      Luna DPC-18 color Display (https://lunacycle.com/luna-full-color-display-dpc-18-for-the-bbs02-and-bbbshd/) (filedata/fetch?id=45577&d=1557358026) Display Features: Full Color Display Automatic Night Mode (with customizable light sensitivity) Choice of Percentage or Voltage display for Battery (goes up to

      for the sound it shouldn't be hard to test if it is chainline related since you could just remove the chain and hit the throttle, remove the chainring and hit the throttle, even remove the secondary and hit throttle. You can fully disassemble the BBSHD and still be able to hit throttle which is very useful for pinpointing the source of noise.

    • Mark_B
      Mark_B commented
      Editing a comment
      Good info, thanks. The thing is, the tapping sound problem is very intermittent--I ran it through gears 1-9 today and no noise. I'm sure this will be an ongoing troubleshooting thing but you've given me enough to go on to eventually get to the bottom.

    I was working on my bike with a Magic Pie installed on the rear with torque arms on both sides. I was taking it off and I tried moving the smaller wire going into the motor (there are 2: one thick one and one thin one), but it seemed that I pulled it out. I then tried giving it throttle, and it seems to work, but now at a seemingly reduced speed. Also, when I manually moved the bike, it also produces more magnetic vibration than it did before. What happened? Is the wire significant? Is it not intended to be pulled out?

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      I'm not sure what you mean by moving the smaller wire.. Are you saying you yanked wiring out of the motor? I think you may need to take pictures of the wiring and what you were doing so folks can get a clear idea of what you are referring to. I would recommend starting a new thread or emailing support because this is not something that is going to be resolved with a quick answer.

    • Snikerdoodlz
      Snikerdoodlz commented
      Editing a comment
      It's not that I yanked it, but it sort of jjust fell out when I handled it slightly. I'll contact Luna or Golden Motors.

    Hi guys, first post here.
    I saw this mid center motor and i think i like it (https://lunacycle.com/bafang-bbs02-mid-drive-kit/) but i need some help to understand if it suits me. Beware that i am a completly newbee.

    I have a good mtb (700-800eur ) and i want to put a good motor on it but in my country there is the limit of 25km/h and 250W. For the first limit there is no problem cause i saw that i can set the max speed on display, but for the second limit i have some problem because i need 2 setups that can be easily switched (the 1st legal 250W and the second off-road 750W full speed).

    My main idea now is to put a 16v battery (750W motor 48v motor with a 16v battery i think go at 1/3 of Watts, it means 250W, is that right?), and then put two more 16v batteries or one 36v battery in series to sum the Volts (idk if it works). In this way i think i can use the first setup as legal, and only changing 3 wires i can switch to 750W version.

    If it don't work can you explain me why and what's a setup that can suit me?

    TY, if something is not clear, tell me and i'll try to explain my self again.

    Comment


    • commuter ebikes
      commuter ebikes commented
      Editing a comment
      I would not change the system voltage at all. Rather, I would limit the current. P=vi, so you can either limit the power by reducing the voltage, the current or a combination of both voltage and current. If you leave the system voltage in its stock form and limit the current, you will still have the high top speed, but with less torque.

      When you want to ride at 750W, you can increase the maximum current to the appropriate amount. I have a 3-speed switch, so I can set low, medium and high to my desired levels. I am not sure if the controller in this motor accommodates a 3-speed switch.
      Last edited by commuter ebikes; 09-19-2017, 09:55 AM.

    Sup Daniele. it is impossible to run a BBS02 off of a 16v battery as it is far below the low voltage cutoff.

    ..however if you buy the program cable you can easily configure it so the 9 levels of assist have different power levels. So for example the first four levels limit output to some fraction of overall output (which they already do for the most part but you can dial it back more if needed) then the rest of the levels adjust however you see fit.

    That way if you are on the road, just keep it in one of those first four levels on the display and it will be street legal.

    Comment


      I just bought the Carbon Shark 52v and was wondering if I have to remove the battery each time to turn it off, or can I leave it on the bike and leave the switch on?

      Comment


      • HIGHVOLTAGE
        HIGHVOLTAGE commented
        Editing a comment
        Check to see if the voltage changes with the switch on/off. Sometimes they don't always fully shut the battery off. You're technically free to leave it plugged in if you prefer but I just unplug mine from the Anderson/XT90 connector end on the cradle. Better safe than sorry imo.

      Oh, it is easier then expected, ty for responses boys.

      Comment


        Can I replace my BBS02, 48V, 500W, Version A, controller with the 750W version?

        Comment


        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          As long as you select the version A bbs02 controller, yes you should be able to.

        Hi guys (Seb)

        Controller wont turn on or will flick half a second on and turn black.

        Comment


        Hi,
        I want to fit a BBSHD motor to a mountain bike for trail riding. I would like to know if a Giant Anthem (Carbon) would be suitable or should I only use the aluminium frame?
        I weigh 180 lb and plan to use the bike for medium to slow speed exploring of fire break trails (rough surfaces) but no real jumps.

        Can you ship battery packs to me?

        Comment


          Modifying carbon fiber bikes is often problematic for a couple different reasons. If it is a purpose built carbon fiber ebikes frame I'm sure it would be fine but with carbon fiber bicycles it may have a bit more flex, and it is likely to use a different bottom bracket shell standard than you would normally find on a regular bike. There are workarounds for the bottom bracket shell if you want to check out the link below, but as far as flex that really depends on the frame and it's not something that you can work around if it is a very flexy frame. https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...mid-drive-kits
          we do not ship the lithium to South Africa but I believe our Australian dealer Luna-mate may be able to if you want to send him an email. http://luna-mate.com/

          Comment


            Originally posted by paxtana View Post
            Modifying carbon fiber bikes is often problematic for a couple different reasons. If it is a purpose built carbon fiber ebikes frame I'm sure it would be fine but with carbon fiber bicycles it may have a bit more flex, and it is likely to use a different bottom bracket shell standard than you would normally find on a regular bike. There are workarounds for the bottom bracket shell if you want to check out the link below, but as far as flex that really depends on the frame and it's not something that you can work around if it is a very flexy frame. https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...mid-drive-kits
            we do not ship the lithium to South Africa but I believe our Australian dealer Luna-mate may be able to if you want to send him an email. http://luna-mate.com/
            OK, so it seems that I should stick to a aluminium frame. Thanks.
            I can probably source bare batteries here, but then I will have to make up my own casing.

            Comment


              Hey guys,

              Can you tell me which hub motor kits will fit on my fat bike with rear drop outs of 200mm?

              I would like to go with the 2 speed motor if possible but will work with whatever hub kit you recommend.

              I'm local to you and would like to buy this today.

              Thanks
              Rambler
              Last edited by commuter ebikes; 09-20-2017, 09:39 AM. Reason: I changed "cm" to "mm".

              Comment


                I just got my battery in and now I'm waiting for the cyclone 3000w to come in stock (who knows when). I measured my bottom bracket so I'd know what size to get, it ended up being exactly 3" or what google told me 76.2mm. I saw somewhere to not bother with standard and get this ISIS BB but the standard will fit the general range from 68mm-83mm but if I did get the ISIS will the 83mm be okay or too big (next option). I'm not sure the difference really between standard and ISIS.

                Comment


                • Valmek
                  Valmek commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Forget it, doesn't seem like I'm going to get help. I guess I'll just get the standard one and hope it works if not, pray I can exchange it.

                • Peter Halt
                  Peter Halt commented
                  Editing a comment
                  It would be a rare local bike shop that would install a Cyclone, which will almost certainly require fabrication and customization of the mounts and possibly your bike. Most shops won't install the plug and play BBSHD unless that is in their business model. It sounds like you need to do a lot more reading or buy a ready made ebike. I won't even build a BBSHD for a client unless they have a clue how to work on bikes.

                • Valmek
                  Valmek commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Why is everyone talking about bike shop, bike shop, bike shop. OBVIOUSLY I would have called them before even considering this to see if they would put together and they said yes. Im asking about what type of bottom bracket to get not about whether my bike shop will do it. You guys keep talking about bike shops, that's not even what I wanted to know in my question, I DIDNT EVEN mention it in my question about the bracket.

                Originally posted by Rambler View Post
                Hey guys,

                Can you tell me which hub motor kits will fit on my fat bike with rear drop outs of 200cm?

                I would like to go with the 2 speed motor if possible but will work with whatever hub kit you recommend.

                I'm local to you and would like to buy this today.

                Thanks
                Rambler
                I have not seen that Luna sells a motor with 200mm dropouts. If you don't want to use a mid drive, QS Motor sells a 205 50H with 200mm dropouts. It may not be listed on their site, but I 100% know for a fact that 200mm is one of their off the shelf dropout sizes.

                If you do end up buying a hub motor from QS Motor, confirm the total axle length before your purchase and make sure that you will have enough room for your frame, torque plates and axle nuts. One flanged M16 axle nut is 15.95mm tall and a non-flanged M16 axle nut is 12.79mm tall. When I checked this for my standard frame and a 1/4" (303 Stainless) torque plate on either side, there was not enough room to fully engage all the threads on the axle nuts. This problem can probably be rectified by using the non-flanged axle nuts and 3/16" torque plates made from, say, 304 Stainless.

                Would you consider using a mid drive? Thinking ahead, you will have a much easier time changing flat tires in the rear and, more importantly, adequate room for plenty of gears on your freewheel or cassette. With a hub motor and 200mm dropouts, you will be limited to a 6-speed freewheel. With a mid drive, you can fit any freewheel or cassette ever produced.
                Last edited by commuter ebikes; 09-20-2017, 09:37 AM.

                Comment


                Hi, some more noob questions.

                My bike bottom brackets seems to be 67mm, i saw that 68-73mm is supported for bbs02, do 1mm make the difference?

                With the kit there is the "48v 3amp Lithium Charger $30.00 (110-220v input)" but it have an american socket, do it work with a plug adapter?

                If i buy the "Luna DPC18 Full Color Display" will the basic bafang display shipped too? Cause i want try each one.

                Comment


                • Sebz
                  Sebz commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Hi,
                  NO 1mm is not a problem at all.
                  It's a US plug so you need a simple plug converter if you are overseas.
                  No only one LCD included.
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