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    Hi Guys,

    I just got my new X-1!

    I'm following the instructions and videos on:
    https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...nduro-fs-ebike

    But I can't ride it yet. I have two issues (first one is critical).

    1) With both of the spacers in, the wheel doesn't fit between the legs of the forks. The two spacers are different from each other and I don't see any reference as to which side goes where. I tried switching (of course) but the wheel still doesn't fit.

    2) The upgraded headlight ( Fisher Fab House Special) has no mount point.? It has two allen screws on the sides, but there is not corresponding mount point.

    Please help. I'm very excited to ride my new bike.

    Thanks,

    -Carl
    Attached Files
    Last edited by NYCarl; 03-06-2020, 08:04 AM.

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      Hi I believe that we answered you via email but if you need any further assistance let us know

    Hello, Just purchased a controller for the bbs02b went to install and I just noticed there is not cable for the lights. Do you guys not offer a version with the 6v line to the lights? Order number 97625. Thanks

    Comment


    • HIGHVOLTAGE
      HIGHVOLTAGE commented
      Editing a comment
      We do not offer the Light version unfortunately. Bafang lets you choose between either a Gear Sensor or Light cable. Most external lights work just fine so better to have a dedicated Gear Sensor cable instead.

    • R3NEGADE exe
      R3NEGADE exe commented
      Editing a comment
      Yea the one I have came with both. Am I able to return it? I opened a support ticket also.

    • HIGHVOLTAGE
      HIGHVOLTAGE commented
      Editing a comment
      Yeah, continue with the support ticket and it should be fine to return as long as it's new.

    I need the bearing that the pinion gear goes through under the nylon reduction gear. The bearing I need is 15mm I.D. and 32mm O.D. I ordered a pinion gear (order 97319) but it is much too small. What is this bearing called? Does lunacycle.com have the bearing I need?

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      Your pics do not appear to be viewable..

    Hi Luna Team,

    I am seeing some weird noise coming from my motor. Before determining it was not my motor, I made sure I retighten my chain ring, adjusted my chain, tighten the motor lock ring and beauty ring. The noise is a clicky type noise coming from the motor area. The noise is much louder and prevalent when the motor is under load or on a hill. I tried it on all different gears available and the noise is still there. Here's a youtube link to the video of the noise - https://youtu.be/_4cUj3m7q-g . In the video, I showed the noise while im riding and also when I use the thumb throttle only. Same noise in either case.
    Last edited by tkl999; 03-09-2020, 10:22 AM.

    Comment


    • tkl999
      tkl999 commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks all for the tips. I checked the rear cassette. I ran though all the gears to confirm that chain is not pressing up against the side of the other sprockets. Through constant riding it is definitely coming from the motor area. Also this noise is happening when Im on the lowest gear, I'm about 210 lbs, probably 230 with my bags. I did noticed that when I put my hands on the motor, I see there is like 1mm of wiggle. I tighten the best I could with the standard bbshd hand wrench but it looks like its not tight enough. I have on order the luna torque wrench and sprocket (https://lunacycle.com/torque-wrench-...ng-mid-drives/) and I will take apart all the cranks on both sides, chain ring, motor lock ring, clean everything, and reinstall and tighten to 100 ft/lbs on the lock ring. Hopefully this will stop the weird clicking. Will update once I get my socket set from Luna and retighten everything. Also this is the video I followed to make sure my derailleur is adjusted properly - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UkZxPIZ1ngY

    • HIGHVOLTAGE
      HIGHVOLTAGE commented
      Editing a comment
      Hmmm, That wiggle is normal and probably not the cause of your sound. I can assure you on that. You might have to do an in-depth dive into the motor if you really feel it's coming from the motor area. We do have a guide for the disassembly on these forums that is pretty easy to follow

      This tutorial is to do maintenance on the BBSHD<br><br> You better don't take any chances and order a paper gasket they break very easily, Click here. (https://lunacycle.com/parts/bafang-parts/bbshd-parts/gasket-for-main-steel-gear-bbshd/) <br><br> Tools needed:<br> You will need a small blade

    • tkl999
      tkl999 commented
      Editing a comment
      I'll take some time to dive into opening up the motor just to see what's going on inside. Thank you for the guide, it'll really come in handy!

    Do your BBSO2/BBSHD installation tools work on the Bafang Ultra Motor? Thank You

    Comment


    • HIGHVOLTAGE
      HIGHVOLTAGE commented
      Editing a comment
      Well, the Ultra motor requires a an integrated frame for it. It's not the same as a BBSHD or BBS02 kit which was designed to be used on multiple bike frame types. I don't think this tool would be required for the installation.
      Last edited by HIGHVOLTAGE; 03-10-2020, 12:51 PM.

    hi

    I have a 350W controller with no instructions. Just trial an error to find out how it works. I known the 3 phase motor, hall sensor , alarm (red plugs), and batter + - are on the right.

    Any ideas which ones are the PAS, and throttle. I can't seem to get the motor to spin. There is a resistance on it though when the battery is connected.

    edit* i also have no clue which are the brakes.
    Last edited by Hurly; 03-10-2020, 01:13 PM.

    Comment


    • HIGHVOLTAGE
      HIGHVOLTAGE commented
      Editing a comment
      Ah, sorry, this thread is mainly for LunaCycle products. You can try making a separate topic about this issue though. If I had to suggest something though, I would contact the original manufacture and seller and ask for wiring details on the controller. That is pretty much the only way you're going to know which cable does what.

    Up until around the time I accidentally fried my first Ludicrous controller, when the voltage got low the display would remain on but the controller would stop outputting power for a bit until the voltage came back and then I could use it a little more. This would happen around the bottom three fuel tick marks (lowest yellow and then the two red) indicating the controller knew there was still power left but knew it needed to cut out temporarily due to low voltage after I accelerated.

    After I replaced my controller (I can't say 100% whether it's a difference in controller programming as I also updated most variables to match Karl's Special Sauce around that time) the display will shut off the instant it gets below a certain voltage and refuse to come back on until I replace or charge the battery. This usually happens when I have one or two yellow tick marks left, which means the controller knows there's power left but something in the software is telling it to shut off and not turn back on.

    I'm almost certain that I set my "Low Battery Protect" variable to Karl's value of 41 V. Is "Low Battery Protect" what triggers shutting it off completely without the ability to turn back on?

    If yes, then is it reasonable to set it to something significantly lower than 41 V so I can take advantage of the last three tick marks of power on the power meter and get more range? This would bring it back in line with where it was prior to the new controller and programming changes.

    Is the battery's BMS what is allowing the screen to stay on but producing zero output until the voltage gets a chance to come back up? If yes, then I assume I can feel comfortable setting the Low Battery Protect lower to take advantage of the BMS's fail-safe. If no, and this functionality is in the controller as well as the current shutting off completely, then my question becomes can I switch it back to the old functionality.

    Last ride, one battery shut off when at 49 V (~42% according to the chart) after recovery (as measured by the Luna Advanced Charger) and the other shut off at 48 V (~35%) after recovery. It would be nice to have the ability to drain down to 10-15%.

    Comment


    • Squeamish
      Squeamish commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks, Paxtana!

      Although I do intend on using PAS sometimes, the recent rides where I was experiencing this were all throttle only. That could've contributed to more voltage sag.

      I'm still unclear on why before swapping the controller the display would stay on and the motor would just cut out and come back to life once or twice before it finally quit coming back to life, then after swapping the controller it has been lights out and won't come back on. I'm mostly looking to get to use my battery between where it's presently shutting off at 35-40% on down to 10-20%.

      I connected the programming cable and confirmed lvc has been set to 41V. All but one of the recommendations on Karl's site including Karl's recommendation say 41V. Luna's documentation says 43V. I know before the controller swap I was getting readings between 40 and 41 during voltage sag but never (or at least rarely) below 40.

      I'm going to lower it to 40, most likely temporarily, primarily as a test to see if the cutoff switches to what it was before with the screen staying on and getting a little more power after the voltage comes back. I think how low the voltage gets and how long will determine whether I leave it at 40 or bring it back up to 41 and learn to cut back on the throttle when I get to the lowest yellow tick mark. Cycle life is important to all of us.

      At no time did I experience the low-voltage motor symptoms that you describe. With both controllers, I always had plenty of power aside from the times that it shut off.

    • Squeamish
      Squeamish commented
      Editing a comment
      Here's a quote from Sebz on the "Voltage sag explained" thread which I think is pretty much explaining exactly what I'm experiencing:

      "So let’s say if you’re near 46v (resting voltage) and you ram the throttle wide open....well under load that would put it close to 41V and what is at 41V on your BBSHD? The controller set point to cutoff power to prevent over discharging your battery!

      "Once you hit about 46V on your 52V battery (or 44V on your 48V) you should consider yourself low on battery and start “limping” home using minimal power to reduce the voltage sag to avoid hitting the low voltage protection….Lower the pedal assist mode, lower your speed, let go the throttle and pedal to get the most milage of whats left…This will also let the battery cool down while you ride back home!"
      --https://electricbike.com/forum/forum/knowledge-base/batteries-aa/48140-voltage-sag-explained

    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      Well you are welcome to speak with Seb about your questions directly if you email support

    I just picked up a Luna Apollo and quickly proceeded to flip it over to install pedals and mixed up right / left... so I need to get a new left crank arm.. It's a 170, but I have no idea what the specs are and where I could get one. Please advise.

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      We can hook you up with one as a special order, we have them on hand. We can do it for $20, email support@lunacycle.com

    I've been on a couple rides on the new BBS02 kit and it performs beautifully in PAS mode without throttle application.
    But I am very disappointed with the throttle operation.
    I have the full twist RH throttle and it works perfectly without pedaling, but once I try to pedal along with the engaged throttle, the motor cuts out, even if I am in assist level 0.
    I've seen this issue discussed at length on this forum a year or two back but it looked like maybe the new motors you are shipping were supposed to have fixed this.
    Any suggestions?

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      That was relating to bbshd not BBSO2. We created a firmware that addressed the issue on BBSHD. It may be some time before this is addressed on bbs02

    • Cavi
      Cavi commented
      Editing a comment
      That is interesting to know, I am very glad I have the BBSHD on my Kona!!! Lucky for me my wife does not use the throttle so she will never be the wiser!!!

    Ok, thanks for the update. For the time being I’ll probably use straight pas primarily.
    I can’t imagine what Bafang’s logic is in denying throttle use when peddling in pas 0 but
    there is some comfort in knowing I’m not the only one having this issue.

    Comment


      Hello! I bought a Sur Run X about a month or so ago. Should I let the battery run down below a certain level before charging? What is the optimal charging technique? It seems like I am getting a little less distance on a charge but I also just plug it in when I'm done riding. Thank you!

      Comment


      • brettvogel
        brettvogel commented
        Editing a comment
        Thanks for that. And does it matter if I plug it in at 40 or 50 or 60 or 70%? Or are these new batteries built for charging whenever you want? Thank you!

      • HIGHVOLTAGE
        HIGHVOLTAGE commented
        Editing a comment
        Nope, you can plug it in at any charge.

      • brettvogel
        brettvogel commented
        Editing a comment
        Thank you!

      Does the gauge of wire affect anything? My LUNA bbsHD mid-drive motor has x gauge wire. The battery (I really don't know anything about this stuff)g has 12(?) Gauge wire. With the proper connectors, does the size or gauge of wire have any affect on the function of the motor or battery?

      Comment


      • HIGHVOLTAGE
        HIGHVOLTAGE commented
        Editing a comment
        Nah, as long as the gauging isn't extremely thick or thin, it won't be an issue

      Hi, changed the Nylon gear which had failed on my BBSHD , after around 4000 miles, good innings.




      Had a problem, the controller turns off after a couple of revolutions, re boot the battery and controller, works for a couple of revolutions, then off again. Rebuilt the motor, checked connections today, same again. If I just use the throttle indoors, with wheel off the floor, it's fine, spins up.




      Battery is charging to 58v.




      Checked and cleaned magnet for rear tyre sensor.




      Any help greatly appreciated, it's driving me nuts.




      Many thanks,

      G

      Comment


      • HIGHVOLTAGE
        HIGHVOLTAGE commented
        Editing a comment
        This sounds like a battery issue, especially since it is shutting off under load but not with no load. Check with a second battery or check your battery cells to make sure you have no dead cells in your battery.

        Also make sure you weren't just on low battery. Shut offs under load can happen to a battery under 30%, especially if it is an older battery 1-2 years old

      • Cavi
        Cavi commented
        Editing a comment
        Deffinitly check your battery and your charger, I had a charger that was not working correctly in the 80% and 90% setting, but would work fine in 100% So if I tried charging to 90% it said it was done, but it had done basically nothing.......

      I'm in desperate need of the proper torque specs for mounting of the M600 on an my X1.

      I also must say that I'm very disappointed after ponying up for the silent gear upgrade my m600 is is not tight! Really your guy can't do his job properly? I can feel the bike torque steer as the power comes and goes. I have also experienced all kinds of shifting issues because the motor is loose and walking around.

      Comment


      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        Bafang does not provide torque specs for the M600 bolts, but you shouldn't really need a torque wrench. The mount points are in such a way that even moderate tightness would prevent it from wiggling.

        Typically a shifting issue would not prevent itself from a motor mount not being tight on this motor. You may want to tune your derailer.

      • Phredn3ck
        Phredn3ck commented
        Editing a comment
        The standard torque rating for a M10 bolt (class 8.8) is 55 Nm.

      Is it possible to program the befang bbs02 750watt mid-drive motor to give 100% power to the throttle. I am in a e-bike building competition and pedal assist is not allowed. If this motor is not a good option I can get any motor but I can output a max of 650w and I want to go max 20mph but want to accelerate to 20mph as fast as possible since their is an acceleration competition.

      Comment


      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        It already does that, and you can disable pedal assist in configuration using software cable
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