Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Ask an ebike technical question get an answer within 30 minutes or so.

Collapse
This is a sticky topic.
X
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Do you still sell the grit 220 bike? Did you put the brake levers or brake sensors on it or none?

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      We have not had grit for very long time, probably discontinued, though I can not rule out that we will carry something similar in the future. No we do not typically build with ebrakes on our builds.

    • mangekyo
      mangekyo commented
      Editing a comment
      I really liked the look of that bike, it could need a bigger battery though. Let me know if your'e going to carry it again, or a similar road bike build. But if you don't build with ebrakes, how does braking cut off the motor on your builds?

    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      I liked it too, it was not a big seller though. We do sell the kit though, so you could get a grit or similar road bike and do a similar conversion. Check out our knowledge base for fitment info if interested.

      Generally speaking we do not use ebrakes on our builds for several reasons. It adds an additional potential failure point, and would either require either replacing the original brake levers or retrofitting them. Neither is ideal, and typically the bikes we sell have great brakes that are stronger than the motor so not altogether necessary. I rarely even use them on my personal bike builds, unless I happen to be in need of a mechanical lever

    I have a Luna bbshd with the 750c display and the off-road programming and a 48v battery with a Bluetooth bms.

    The battery meter on the display does not match with my bms the display shows less than my battery actually has even when fully charged (right off the charger bms indicates full charge). Also it cut off the battery at 44v how can I calibrate the display match my bms

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      What voltage is it showing? Are we talking several volts difference, or a fraction of a volt? Have you used a multimeter to determine which measurement is actually correct? The display can not be calibrated, it just takes the voltage the controller provides, which also can not be calibrated. In any case, the controller low voltage cutoff is around 41. If you are cutting around 44 that is likely the battery LVC, not controller LVC. Controller LVC can be adjusted in the program settings if you wanted to double check though. Either way if you are hitting 44 it's probably about time to head home, or change your profile to one that is going to give you more range, as even unloaded 44 is pretty low, especially if you are able to sag voltage by a few volts under load, which could hit LVC pretty quick

    Now that i am running the Ludi controller on my BBSHD. Is the watts displayed on the display half of what is really being produced. Or does it know close to what is being produced?

    Comment


    • HIGHVOLTAGE
      HIGHVOLTAGE commented
      Editing a comment
      It's half. Always double it in your head. :)
      Last edited by HIGHVOLTAGE; 04-15-2020, 11:33 AM.

    • Cavi
      Cavi commented
      Editing a comment
      that is what i thought.

    https://www.bafang-e.com/oem-area/co.../cr-s10d350sn/

    i currently have this controller in my e-bike

    Can it support a 48v battery?

    Comment


    • HIGHVOLTAGE
      HIGHVOLTAGE commented
      Editing a comment
      Hmmm, I kinda doubt it. It's rated for 350watts.
      Last edited by HIGHVOLTAGE; 04-16-2020, 09:05 AM.

    I am putting a 300 Watt solar panel on my Four Wheel Camper, dual 6V AGM Batteries in series @ 220 Amp Hours, Victron Controller and Inverter with the intent to be able to charge my Luna Batteries off grid in the back country. I would like to use my 300 Watt Advanced Luna Charger to plug into the inverter and charge my Luna Batteries. Is there a chart that shows how many Watts per hour are consumed at each setting 1A, 2A, 3A, 4A & 5A? I need that information to size the inverter accordingly. Thank you for your support!

    Comment


    • pure_mahem
      pure_mahem commented
      Editing a comment
      There is a green controller with different names I've seen people use to do this. It's Green it's an MPPT Charge controller and it can be adjusted to charge at whatever you set as parameters it goes for about $40. I was looking into it at one point as an option for my Ebike Tour and crossed it off because I just could justify carrying the amount of solar panels I would need to use it with an ebike. You dont have that issue. Do some youtube searches and I know you will find what I'm talking about.

      here's a link to an example of it. apparently price has gone up on it. Please do some homework as this is just an example of what I am talking about...they will all look like this but the internals are different and a lot of different people make them. I would find someone who has done their homework and found a good one and then use their link to get the best one you can. https://www.amazon.com/Controller-MP...dDbGljaz10cnVl
      Last edited by pure_mahem; 04-16-2020, 10:12 PM.

    • CC Rider
      CC Rider commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks Paxtana, pure-mayhem & Gr8fun. I appreciate the feedback. I was considering a 12V 100 Ah Lithium house battery for the 4Wheel camper, but the cost was almost 2 twice as much and I would have to purchase a DC-to-DC charger in addition. But your point pure_mahem about having the roof space for a small dedicated panel for just charging my Luna batteries directly is a consideration I had not thought of. (solar panels are cheap) Frankly I'd rather not have the inverter because they are expensive and I can do without having a need for off grid 110 power if I don't use my Advanced Luna 300W Charger. The main power sucks for the camper are the DC/AC refrigerator (260W) and the thermostat for propane heater on cold nights in the winter and the FanTastic roof vent on warm/humid nights. The LED lighting does not draw much power at all.

      I will have to research it some more so any links you know of that discuss charging Luna 52V batteries directly from Solar would be appreciated. Could be as simple as going from the panel to this https://www.victronenergy.com/blog/2...dc-dc-charger/ ??? I'm not a very well versed on the electrical side so thanks in advance for the help.

    • CC Rider
      CC Rider commented
      Editing a comment
      I am already going to have to purchase the MMPT (https://www.amazon.com/Victron-Smart...5006280&sr=8-3) and Monitor (https://www.amazon.com/Victron-Energ...5007019&sr=8-3).

    Get a 48 volt invertor. Use your bike batteries to run camper. Use a boost controller to charge.
    i use a genasun controller. Fully potted and very efficient. Specifically made for 58v lithium batteries. Your solar with this battery will charge too fast under full sun. In 4 to 5 amp range.
    i have been running 100 watt solar mounted on my bike for over 6 months. I have aux trailer with another panel. Total 260 watt.
    as mr. Mayhem says , it is a lot if panel. But good battery extender. Also charges fast when both panels are hooked up. The 100 watt chatges at slower rate but that is good for battery. 1.4 amps.
    i also have the controller mayhem suggests. It works good but too inefficicientand fragile for mobile application. It is ideal if you insist on 6v agm s. Do charge directly from panels when possible. Wasteful to put into lead acid, then through invertor then through charger inti battery. That was a run on sentence, showing multiplications of inefficienxy.

    Comment


    • Gr8fun
      Gr8fun commented
      Editing a comment
      Sorry i said 58 volt batteries i meant 52 volt. You do need to use a boost controller to charge from solar panel. Not all solar panels are equal. The controller mentioned by pure mayhem is programmable for charging bike from your lead acid batteries. Directly charging your bike battery or your lead acid batteries from panels.. Will not charge your lead acid from bike though. That would take a different buck convertor.
      You do have some homework to do this proper
      I bought the renogy flexible, the rigid are much heavier probably more durable. For my purpose the flexible light weight were neccesary. Anything less than 200 watt will be disappointing. More than 350 watt will be too much for charge controller.
      Last edited by Gr8fun; 04-17-2020, 01:44 PM.

    • CC Rider
      CC Rider commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks Gr8fun, Something like this? https://www.invertersupply.com/index...RoC2PQQAvD_BwE

    The victron controllers are not boost controllers. They will not charge your bike batteries.
    for lead acid batteries and solar panel at 48 volt. A pwm not a mppt.
    Not what you need
    the mpt7210a would be adequate and configurable to all your needs within reason.

    Of course u can spend a lot more and get a genasun like i did.
    Last edited by Gr8fun; 04-17-2020, 02:24 PM.

    Comment


      Remember there is fire inside your batteries controllers and solar panels
      do your homework and do not let the fire out.

      Comment


      • CC Rider
        CC Rider commented
        Editing a comment
        That's why I was going to go the inverter route, because I do not trust what I don't understand. I understand that the 300 Luna Charger plugs into a standard 110 outlet and that a pure sine wave inverter is the cleanest way to do it off grid. The last thing I want to do is fry my Luna battery or endanger myself or the camper I am sleeping in while in the middle of nowhere. I will continue to research it. Thanks!

      I'm looking at putting a BBSHD on a Giant trance X2 2011. My understanding is the BB is a SM-BB91-41.
      I believe I would need the 100mm wide motor.

      For the BB, does anyone know if this adapter would work ok? https://www.ebay.com/itm/J-L-BB92-BB...-/301825746922

      (I assume this one is similar: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3289...archweb201603_ )

      Comment


      • HIGHVOLTAGE
        HIGHVOLTAGE commented
        Editing a comment
        Seems like it should be fine.

      I have an old, super basic MTB frame (heavy steel, good shape), that I am planning to mount a BBSHD off road, and Luna 52V battery onto. Not optimal setup, as the bike does not have any real suspension, but don't want to spend any more money unless I have to- times are tight. I figured I can upgrade the bike frame, etc. later. Based on what I have read, and my shittiness at remembering to change gears, I can pretty much guarantee I'm lining myself up to be the next breaker of chains, and not in a hot Game of Thrones Calleessi sort of way... How hard/possible would it be to add a moped/scooter chain?

      Edit- I believe it's a 9 gear, or similar. Can't recall off hand as it was hand-me-down from my partner, and I had a road bike that I was using already at the time. The bloody thing was always too heavy to do much with since we live at the bottom of a massive hill.
      Last edited by Gullinbursti; 04-19-2020, 10:07 AM.

      Comment


      • HIGHVOLTAGE
        HIGHVOLTAGE commented
        Editing a comment
        No clue, this is a bit outside of the scope of support we can offer in this thread. Sorry. I don't think this would be possible.

      Soo i love my kona full suspension with the bbshd and ludi controller. But i also love my wifes specialized hard tail with a bbs02 and a wolf pup battery as it is real light and can handle most of our rides. Soo i have another titus racer x full suspension light bike. I am considering a bbs02 for it with a pup so i also have a light setup. Does lunas bbs02 have upgrased mofsets in it like the bbshd?

      Comment


      • HIGHVOLTAGE
        HIGHVOLTAGE commented
        Editing a comment
        The BBS02's mosfets are the latest from Bafang. I don't think you need to be concerned with this though. It is more likely you will have other problems before you have a blown mosfet.

      Cavi, I have the Bafang 750V BBS02 with the 44 tooth sprocket. I am 70 and I can not ride with non-electric bike friends for when I just do one pedal rotation I am up to 18MPH. One of your posts talked about the setting to correct this. Any way to do a video or give me a step by step walkthrough on how to do it. I just want to peddle at about 12 mph and have the assist when it is needed when on the #1 setting. Tom: tks18@icloud.com

      Comment


        I received my BBSHD kit last week, and have run into an unpleasant snag. The bottom bracket shaft has an eccentricity. If you look closely at this image, you can see that on one side the smooth portion of the shaft is not flush with the threads, while on the other side it is. I have marked up the image to illustrate the problem. This side that is not flush has some paint worn off where it interfered with the shell of the bike frame when I tried to insert the motor. (The threaded portion of the shaft clears the threaded portion of the shell, but the unthreaded portions of each encounter interference). You can also see that the threads on the side which *are* flush, are also flattened somewhat compared to the full tooth threads on the left side. This looks like a manufacturing defect to me. Has anyone else encountered this issue before? I did a couple brief searches of this thread but nothing turned up. (Sorry this picture is huge, but I wanted to make sure the detail could be seen)

        Click image for larger version

Name:	bbshd bb2.jpg
Views:	309
Size:	606.1 KB
ID:	104478
        Last edited by shevek; 04-20-2020, 10:21 AM.

        Comment


        • shevek
          shevek commented
          Editing a comment
          The scratches you reference here paxtana are from the threaded portion of my frame rubbing on the motor when I tried twisting it to insert. The threaded portion of my frame clears the BBSHD shaft, as it should. It is the unthreaded portions of each which don't clear. There is no blockage in the frame. I have sanded and cleaned and inspected it several times. The transition from threaded to unthreaded portion of my frame is smooth, without any steps or weld slag etc. The obvious location of interference is the motor, as illustrated.

        • HIGHVOLTAGE
          HIGHVOLTAGE commented
          Editing a comment
          Often times you just gotta kinda work on it until it goes through. Eventually it will go through with enough sanding and force applied. It's okay to be a bit rough with it. It is not something you have to treat delicately to try to fit inside.

        • Cavi
          Cavi commented
          Editing a comment
          one thing I will mention, my wife's specialized had a bracket screwed on to the bottom, and the screw that held it on protruded in to the bottom bracket hole, I just backed it off and the motor slide in fine.

        I am trying to program BBS-HD. is there a way for the display to stay at 750 WATTS once I program the bikes top speed at 20 MPH? even with the max speed at 20 mph when I can the display to 31 it changes back to 1000 watt. what other setting can I change?

        Comment


        I had my bike up on a rack running the motor. I was testing different batteries to see which would last longer. After 15 minutes the motor just stopped. the display is still on. No sensors tripped. I have done this before, for hours. I have no pedal assit or thortel. Any Idea what might have happened?

        Comment


        • HIGHVOLTAGE
          HIGHVOLTAGE commented
          Editing a comment
          Unplug everything and re-plug it back in again. Make sure all the connections are tight.
      Working...
      X