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    Going with an S/A RX-RK5 IGH on my BBSHD build what’s a good quality chain tensioner to go with?

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      The hub itself is fine.

      The issue is the tensioner and the anti rotation washer. Turns out, you need a metal that is signficantly harder than average for these parts if you are putting the power of a high performance mid drive through it. Otherwise you end up with mechanical fatigue at these parts and that allows the axle to rotate which takes the IGH back out of adjustment.

      I suspect a good portion of this can be avoided by both keeping the rear wheel tightly mounted to the dropouts and reinforcing that left side anti rotation washer with a torque arm (assuming you can find a torque arm that fits very snugly around the axle to completely prevent rotation once tightened down). I have seen an interesting proposal for a redesigned tensioner that works not only as a tensioner but also by design fits within the bike in such a way that is essentially acts as a torque arm on that side. Between that, some harder metal, and a hardened steel anti rotation washer on the left, and hell, throw in a torque arm as well just for the heck of it, and you'd probably be good to go.

    • ncmired
      ncmired commented
      Editing a comment
      Well ... Paxtana, I'm quite confused by that explanation, I gotta say.

      What tensioner? Also, why would rotation of the axle (unless an extreme amount - enough to tug on the cable) alter the (I'd guess the shift) adjustment?

      Apologies for not understanding - by chance is the axle spirally twisting and binding the shift pawls/mechanism? And, is what you're mentioning for the wide, Babe hub, or for the narrower 135mm version mentioned above by the OP?
      Last edited by ncmired; 05-11-2020, 05:32 PM.

    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      I can't get into a whole thing about it right now since a fix is only in preliminary stage but here are the essentials.

      Rotational torque is applied to the axle because there is a fixed sun gear in the center of the axle of the IGH, the other gears rotate around this. In this way it is perhaps more unique than other IGHs. If that axle is not absolutely held still, no good. Apparently that is the challenge we face moving forward with this model. Apart from that the bike (and by extension the IGH) is good to go.

    Hi just wondering if I buy a 52v 20ah battery pack that comes with x90 connecters and and a advanced 300w charger as a combo; would I need to get x90 connecters because I think the charger is listed as having x60 connecters??

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      If the battery is from Luna then it has XT90 on discharge but the charge connector would still be XT60 just like the charger

    • HIGHVOLTAGE
      HIGHVOLTAGE commented
      Editing a comment
      The 52v 20ah Luna pack uses XT90's as discharge and XT60's as charge so you should be fine.
      Last edited by HIGHVOLTAGE; 05-11-2020, 10:06 AM.

    I was wondering why stators aren't built into the rim of the bike?... Probably a stupid question. My thought was with a large lever arm the power of the motor could be lower. Same torque, fewer watts, lighter battery? I'm guessing there could be enough interaction with fixed magnets in the rear fork triangle to make the repel/attract thing work? Don't know. Thought I would ask people who know a thing or two!

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      A typical bike with 26" rim would make that not ideal. The more weight you have the further outbound from the center of the wheel, the more it increases drag on the wheel. For more information research concepts like rotating mass and rolling resistance.

      Incidentally, this is the same reason why kits like Copenhagen Wheel, FlyKly's smart wheel, and numerous chinese copies have been such a bad idea. Unnecessarily adding weight to the wheel and making that weight end up near the rim ends up affecting efficiency, so they have to make up for it by lowering performance.

      Now if you happened to want to do this on a wheel with a small diameter? No problem. They probably already do this on the cast hubmotors used on electric kickscooters.

    • tklop
      tklop commented
      Editing a comment
      I should think the smarter way to attempt do such a thing, would be the other way 'round--that is to say have only magnets on the rim (maybe develop sets of those aerodynamic speed-discs---and fix the magnets to those--I dunno). But have all the electrical pulling done from arrays mounted to the seat-stays and chain-stays (easy to imagine an array of coils arranged in a banana-clip chaped arc btwn the two).

      At any rate, keep the electronics the hell off the moving parts--and everything stays a lot more reliable--not to mention nice and lightweight.

      Main issue I'd see--is the darn magnets on the wheel-rims picking up ferrous debris. That's probaly the only reason we don't see such designs everywhere.
      Last edited by tklop; 05-13-2020, 01:25 AM.

    Like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=270YFNlQeo4

    Actually I started thinking about this because My kids were interested in making a wind turbine. I was thinking a vertical turbine based on an e-bike hub motor might be a good start? Then I was thinking increasing the speed of the interaction between magnets and coils would be a benefit for low friction power production. That got me to wondering about why hub motors are hubs and not rims?

    Comment


    • tklop
      tklop commented
      Editing a comment
      See? No idea is original. That guy's basically doing exactly what I'd described. I'm glad, because I've been advocating a design like that for about three or four years now. That's really cool. Good for him! Still--I bet those wheel-rim magnets will attract nails/staples/etc., so I'm not sure he's got it all figured out just yet.

      The efficiency might be utter garbage--but the same basic idea might be possible without using any magnets on the wheel at all. Alternating-current electromagnetic fields can form a "magnetic river" --one which will interact with aluminum. Seems that could be used to rotate a bike-wheel as-is---no magnets---but the amount of current required might be astronomical--and render such plans stupidly inefficient.

      Here's a film-clip from the seventies illustrating what I'm talking about--for monorail technology:

      https://blogs.imperial.ac.uk/videoarchive/eric-laithwaite/The wonders of magnetism and the linear motor are captured in this 1975 presentation by Professor E...


      I've got an inventive mind--and that's fun. But no $, no workshop, no backing, and no motivation to "go into business"--I'd rather die.

      So, it's nice there's lots of folks out there who've got more than just dumb ideas--who are taking actions, and experimenting in intelligent directions.

      Thanks to their efforts--and others--who knows what we'll get in another twenty five years?
      Last edited by tklop; 05-14-2020, 01:50 AM.

    Love that video. So old school. Good content though...
    I'm a designer I frequently have my face rubbed in the old: 'someone's done it all before' thing... It's ok. Electric motors and batteries aren't new either, but the application is the thing...
    I heard on Fully Charged that in NYC before WW1 more people got around by electric transport than by oil-based means. A trend that pans out worldwide, I think. Amazing it's the new, hip, and sexy thing to do again. (baby maker bicycle) Very cool. Sad Ford came along and didn't make a production line making electric vehicles. If he did, our children might have a future!
    Any thoughts on e-bike or e-motorcycle hub motors used as vertical wind generators?

    Comment


      i installed a bbshd with the hotrod programming for off road use and 52v battery

      it works awesome and the torque is obviously more than good. in fact i rarely, if ever, go above level 1 assistance. however i want to be able to share this with the wife and the initial power assist is too great. there's a distinct on/off feel to it and i need to tone it down so it's more gradual so it doesn't feel like it's getting away from you.

      is there a method to changing the power curve or amount of power assist, especially at the low end? as it is now, it's either level 1 or off.

      Comment


      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        Yes, check out this page https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...shd-mid-drives

        Between limitless profile and changing percentages on each pas level you could make a large difference in how it functions

      • CC Rider
        CC Rider commented
        Editing a comment
        In addition to Paxtana comments, check in your display if it is set to 5 levels of PAS or 9 levels. I prefer 9 levels, because it gives you more granularity. 1 of 9 = offsetting the additional weight of the BBHSD + battery. Level 2 of 9 is good for slight uphill grade and Level 3 of 9 is like Level 1 of 5 if you get my drift.

      Hi,
      Even when starting from a stop?

      If I'm cruising in PAS 3 and then switch down to 1 or 2, I don't really get any power, unless I slow way down and start pedaling again from almost a stop.

      But if I'm starting from a stop in 1 and 2 I get some power. But it's much less power than 3 so I just ride in 3 all the time. survey

      Regards,
      survey
      Last edited by shamsmehra90; 06-13-2020, 12:46 AM.

      Comment


        Hello!

        I just got my second Sur Ron Luna X delivered yesterday, stoked! However, having a little trouble getting this one into Sport mode. Just like the first one I received in late Feb., I opened up the wrapped wires and pulled the black and green looped cable out and cut it then put some electrical tape on both sides. However, the max. speed I can go is 30mph on either setting. The other odd thing is that when I turn on the bike, Eco mode says max. speed is 47mph and same with Sport mode- max. speed 47. The bike rides like it's in Eco mode as far as how it feels.

        Any help would be greatly appreciated.

        Thank you!

        Comment


        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          I would recommend to file a support ticket so our tech Sebastien can have a look

        • brettvogel
          brettvogel commented
          Editing a comment
          Done, thank you!

        • N-MAC
          N-MAC commented
          Editing a comment
          Hi Guys, I have a similar problem - was able to cut the green wire and get the higher speeds, but the bike still 'beeps' when the bike goes over ~12kph. Its not a constant noise, but a regular intermittent beep. Can anyone help tell me how I can switch this speed warning off?

        soo I have the Ludi controller on my kona. I love the bike and the programming is great where I have it, however since adding the Ludi the throttle is much more difficult to control. I honestly do not really need the power of the Ludi, so if I set the programming to max of 15 or 20 amps should the throttle feel more like it did with the stock controller?

        Comment


        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          Yes you could do that with program cable

        Another question for you but I'll keep this a different thread. The newer Sur Ron I got has the electric throttle and we don't like the feel. Can I buy an older throttle ( like the one on your site) and replace it? Thank you!

        Comment


        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          From what I understand yes it may be possible but you would also need the throttle control box.

        • brettvogel
          brettvogel commented
          Editing a comment
          OK, I'll ask Seb. I have a feeling the electric throttle feels weird because of the other issue. Thanks man! Have a good evening!

        ok I've had my build done for a while now and I'm running into some issues with the bbshd motor not staying tight on the bottom bracket. I have the 68mm motor. I've tightened the hell out of it many times but it always slips down.

        I think I have a frame clearance issue.
        one of the mounts on the right side of the bike hits the frame. see photos.

        I cant space it because then the front sprocket will hit the frame.

        what should I do to keep the motor from loosening on the bottom bracket?

        Comment


        Double post from 6 days ago that I believe the community needs a solution to. Or just ignore it and I will solve it myself and spend extra time and money. https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...-ebike-battery
        Last edited by pho; 05-18-2020, 03:59 AM.

        Comment


        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          The question was already answered with multiple suggestions, I am sorry if you did not like the answers but this is DIY equipment and sometimes you might need to come up with your own solutions to specific concerns you may have. That battery was not designed for security, it was designed for durability. If you want to figure a way to make it work for your security concerns. Regarding your other question no I am sorry we can not send you a free battery.

        Sorry to ask this question as its probably been asked and answered before, but I just got a new-to-me downhill bike and the bottom bracket is 83mm. I have installed a BBS02 motor before on another 68mm bottom bracket bike (so I have some minimal experience), but now understand that I need a BBSHD for the new DH bike because the BBS02 doesn't (easily without retrofitting) support the larger bottom brackets. I have read that the BBSHD 100mm width version can support down to 73mm (some places say 86mm). I am a little concerned about purchasing a 100mm motor and having to put tons of spacers on the drive side (pushing out the chainline) in order to have enough threads to tighten the motor on the non-drive side. For this particular bike, I imagine I will definitely need about 3-4mm of spacers so the motor isn't touching anything on the drive side (regardless of the motor bottom bracket version's width ), so at 86-87mm in overall bottom bracket width (which includes the 3-4mm of needed spacers), will there be enough threads on the non-drive side for securing the motor correctly at that point, or will it require more drive side spacers, and how much (in mm)?

        If there needs to be more spacers for 86-87mm of overall bottom bracket width, is it possible/recommended to add spacers between the axle retaining nut and the motor fixing plate on the non-drive side instead of adding more spacers to the drive side?

        What are your thoughts/recommendations/etc?

        Thank you so much!
        Attached Files
        Last edited by TaylorN; 05-19-2020, 06:39 AM. Reason: added photo

        Comment


        • TaylorN
          TaylorN commented
          Editing a comment
          hey paxtana, I am still confused. If you don't space out the motor fixing plate away from the bottom bracket (or if you don't space out the stabilizer mount from the bottom bracket), then the fixing-plate/stabilizer mounting tabs/holes/etc would run into the motor's bolt mount since those stick out to 100mm , which is further than the 83mm bottom bracket. What am I missing? You are totally trying to share with me your vast experience, but I can't put it together in my head. How could any stabilizer bar (either one) sit flush with the bottom bracket if there is almost no spacers added to the drive side (I don't want to mess up the chainline on the drive side by adding a lot of spacers there)? Note, I added another photo to the post above with some annotations

        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          You are right, maybe I was thinking of another size. I don't see why your annotated picture wouldn't work with bsbf-1.

        • TaylorN
          TaylorN commented
          Editing a comment
          gotcha. thanks for the support!

        @Swamp...........Maybe a Stabilizer Bar needed?
        https://lunacycle.com/bsbf-1-stabili...s02-and-bbshd/
        https://lunacycle.com/bsb-1-stabiliz...s02-and-bbshd/
        They are not plug and play, you will need to modify one to work for your frame. No experience with these, as my BBSHD is "inside" the frame and can not move.

        Comment


          ...deleting the contents of this post. I meant to reply to paxtana in post #3722 above: https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...063#post106063
          Last edited by TaylorN; 05-18-2020, 04:09 PM.

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