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    Hi there - three questions from someone who is ready to order a BBSHD kit (I think):

    1. Is there a "recommended" gear ratio for the BBSHD on a single speed setup? I see from the BBSHD documentation that the motor's "rated RPM" is between 130 and 150. Understanding that I might sacrifice some top speed, what's the healthiest ratio for the motor? I should add that I've read about the disadvantages of a mid drive setup with a single speed. My plan is eventually to put the BBSHD on a geared cargo bike but for now... the monocog is what I'm working with and I'm excited to get going on it.

    2. Not being familiar with the motor or drive, if I were to select the default thumb throttle from the kit builder, does that throttle act like an ON/OFF switch or is it like a varistor that lets you creep along with a light touch and go full bore with a heavy thumb? In other words, I'm wondering if there's a way to control speed when in full electric mode (not pedaling). Thinking again here about the SS setup. I wouldn't want to overtorque the motor by having it turn on full bore trying to turn a higher gear from a low starting speed.

    3. What's the chain width of the stock chainwheel on the BBSHD?

    Thank you in advance!

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      We don't recommend use with single speed so can not recommend a gear ratio, sorry. Mid drives should be paired with a drivetrain allowing them to shift through gears so you are not lugging the motor, if this can not be done it could damage something as well as likely not providing maximum top speed or reaching the range you would otherwise be getting. If you do this you're probably on your own. That said, if I were to pick a single sprocket on my cassette that I had to be using all the time for some reason, I would probably pick the middle one.

      The throttle allows some variation in modulating how much power it puts out. Some of the alternate programming profiles can help make that a little more fine grained if you want.

      Not sure the specifics on the stock ring as I don't have one in front of me at the moment but it's pretty thin. Also notable that it is not a narrow/wide chainring. It will work with most chains.

    Appreciate the reply, paxtana. Sounds like the first step will be converting the monocog to a 1x9, then.

    Good info on the other points as well. Thank you!

    Comment


      I’ve got a question on charging battery packs. Say i have a 14s7p pack made of 2000mah cells. If i understand right, a conservative charge rate for the cells would 0.5C-1C which would be 1-2A. If I use the luna advanced charger at 5A, is the amperage divided by the number of parallel banks? So 5A into 7 banks would be about 0.7A per bank which would be considered a slow charge for maximal life rather than a fast charge that pushes the cells?

      thank you!
      Intro, Belt Driven Build

      Comment


      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        Yes each parallel string divides that current input, much like how each parallel string divides the load during discharge

      • Overkill
        Overkill commented
        Editing a comment
        Thank you!

      I recently purchased a X1 Enduro bike and unfortunately had a front tire blow out. I am not sure how it came off during fixing the flat, but I am now in need of an End Cap that can replace the one that I can no longer find.

      Upon inspection of the wheel, I see that I have a 15x110mm Maxle thru-axle (158mm length), but am not sure which size End Cap I should purchase. I have researched a bit online but am only able to locate conversion kits that have end caps that say they fit 15x110mm thru-axles, but I am uncertain whether there is a specific end cap that I should purchase for seamless transition with the X1 Enduro eBike.

      Can anyone please give the specifications for the correct End Cap so that I can purchase the appropriate replacement part and get back to riding. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
      Attached Files

      Comment


        Hi I have a mid drive bbs02 and recently it loses power intermittently. Charge it full. Start riding and after awhile it will go off For a minute or 2 and back on. I opened the battery enclosure and didn’t see loose connection. How can I tell what is the issue? I can buy a new controller but what if it turns out not to be the issue? Thanks.

        Comment


        • mad_max
          mad_max commented
          Editing a comment
          I had the same problem. For other reasons I replaced the motor with BBSHD while keeping the same battery and controller, and I don't have the problem any more. Could be the motor controller. I suspect that controller has a high temperature cutoff. Maybe you can find info on this forum. Does your motor cut out after running at a high power level? Does it ever happen when you first start riding?

          The first thing to do is try to diagnose the problem based on evidence and knowledge of how the system works. The alternative is to replace parts until the problem goes away. Both approaches work, but the former is usually cheaper.
          Last edited by mad_max; 07-19-2020, 08:42 AM.

        Hi Max thanks for the reply. It happens when I ride casually and a few minutes after I start riding. It goes on and off. It doesn’t seem related to speed. What could it be other than the controller and how can I find out? Purchased the kit including battery in Dec 2017 and replaced the controller in July 2018. Battery is shark 52v 13.5 amp. Thanks.
        Last edited by turgi; 07-19-2020, 10:41 AM.

        Comment


        • mad_max
          mad_max commented
          Editing a comment
          Turgi,
          Does the controller display stay on when you loose power? Do you see any error messages on the display? Does power come back of its own accord?
          My controller would go dark when the motor lost power. I had to turn the controller back on, at which point the motor would work again for awhile. It sounds like you might have a different problem.

          I have been looking through my motor and controller manuals, and they are not a lot of help. They tell how to install and set up, but no much deep information such as how the controller communicates with the battery and motor, and what the wires in the various cables do. Without that kind of information it is very difficult to diagnose anything from first principles.

          So that leaves careful observation and reasoning such as rverstee suggests below. Check everything you can, even if it isn't obviously connected to the problem. Or buy a new controller and see if it helps. In the worst case it doesn't, but at least you have a spare controller.

          I wish you success,

          Max

        I bought ebike brake handles with brake sensors built in that connect to the controller via a black two pin connector. The controller has two identical large white connectors that are labeled "low brake". Can i solder on new connectors to match? Do i need different brake sensors? What are these connectors called? I think the black ones are JST something but I am not sure. The motor is a cyclone 3kW if that makes a difference. Any help is appreciated..
        ​​​

        Comment


          Hi, my 52V Advanced Luna Charger up and quit on me in mid-charge yesterday. I looked on the site but found no troubleshooting steps and don't see a breaker or reset button on the unit. Is this a warranty issue or is there something I can do to get it to work again?

          Thanks, Tim

          Comment


            Hi Turgi,
            Make sure your brake sensors are working. One of my brake handles is the stock handle (not an e- brake) with magnet attached, If magnet gets a little loose, you may loose power intermittently - until it gets really loose or falls off- then you are stuck till you fix it. Should be an indicator on the display that shows if the brake is disabling the motor. Check all connections including where you attach the battery to the bike - I had a problem once where battery wasn’t seated correctly. You’ve had the bike for awhile, something may be working itself loose. Have you fully charged the battery recently to balance the cells? If casual riding, are you consistently doing something that takes more power when it cuts off - like going up a hill?Hi Turgi,
            Make sure your brake sensors are working. One of my brake handles is the stock handle (not an e- brake) with magnet attached, If magnet gets a little loose, you may loose power intermittently - until it gets really loose or falls off- then you are stuck till you fix it. Should be an indicator on the display that shows if the brake is disabling the motor. Check all connections including where you attach the battery to the bike - I had a problem once where battery wasn’t seated correctly. You’ve had the bike for awhile, something may be working itself loose. Have you fully charged the battery recently to balance the cells? If casual riding, are you consistently doing something that takes more power when it cuts off - like going up a hill?Hi Turgi,
            Make sure your brake sensors are working. One of my brake handles is the stock handle (not an e- brake) with magnet attached, If magnet gets a little loose, you may loose power intermittently - until it gets really loose or falls off- then you are stuck till you fix it. Should be an indicator on the display that shows if the brake is disabling the motor. Check all connections including where you attach the battery to the bike - I had a problem once where battery wasn’t seated correctly. You’ve had the bike for awhile, something may be working itself loose. Have you fully charged the battery recently to balance the cells? If casual riding, are you consistently doing something that takes more power when it cuts off - like going up a hill?

            Comment


              Hi everyone!

              so I am Modifying my stealth bomber clone and came across an issue with my throttle. I have a half twist throttle that pretty much sucks. It has a massive dead zone before starting the motor. So i either regrip once to start and then again when wide open, otherwise my wrist is cranked, even though I’m using the MX elbows up/v-grip hand technique (turning throttle more like a doorknob rather than with a straight forearm elbow down). Anyway, I first tried adding a mini variable potentiometer to the Ground cable between throttle and the controller. It just gave me a throttle error message on screen. I followed the instructions of an endless sphere post but I’m guessing my controller and screen are incompatible as the OP of the instructions uses a cycle analyst as his controller screen. So I bought the domino ebike 5k waterproof throttle that everyone seems to love. Now mind you, I am a complete newb and can barely start my dremel soldering torch, let alone figure out how to wire this up and use a five pin connector doohickey. Can someone please help me figure this out cuz It came without any instructions whatsoever. They probably figure that anyone doing the job must know their basic stuff I guess... not me tho

              Comment


              • Tommycat
                Tommycat commented
                Editing a comment
                Perhaps this wiring diagram will help for your new throttle...



                As far as using the pot for the hall sensor type to decrease the front dead zone, it does work...



                From your description I suspect with the throttle at home position you had it turned down too low (voltage output below say .4vdc) or up too high (voltage output above say 4.6vdc) setting either of the limiting safety cut-outs.


                For more details on a hall sensor throttle, using the modification above or wiring, see this thread...
                https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...d-modification


                Regards,
                T.C.

              Originally posted by rverstee View Post
              Hi Turgi,
              Make sure your brake sensors are working. One of my brake handles is the stock handle (not an e- brake) with magnet attached, If magnet gets a little loose, you may loose power intermittently - until it gets really loose or falls off- then you are stuck till you fix it. Should be an indicator on the display that shows if the brake is disabling the motor. Check all connections including where you attach the battery to the bike - I had a problem once where battery wasn’t seated correctly. You’ve had the bike for awhile, something may be working itself loose. Have you fully charged the battery recently to balance the cells? If casual riding, are you consistently doing something that takes more power when it cuts off - like going up a hill?
              That was it you nailed it. Disengaged the break wire and the hiccups were gone. Thanks so much!

              Comment


                Originally posted by KoEnSide View Post
                I bought ebike brake handles with brake sensors built in that connect to the controller via a black two pin connector. The controller has two identical large white connectors that are labeled "low brake". Can i solder on new connectors to match? Do i need different brake sensors? What are these connectors called? I think the black ones are JST something but I am not sure. The motor is a cyclone 3kW if that makes a difference. Any help is appreciated..
                ​​​
                If you are only going to do this once or twice buy an assortment of jst connectors and solder them in place.

                https://www.ebay.com/itm/5Pairs-10PC...EAAOSwNaBd67UR

                There are different jst connectors so make sure you get the the ones with the little locking tab.

                Comment


                  Can you please tell me what type and size bolts/screws are needed to attach the stock 46T chainring to the BBSHD motor. Thank you!

                  Comment


                  • ncmired
                    ncmired commented
                    Editing a comment
                    M5 x 10mm I believe - usually hex socket head but they don't have to be.

                  Hello, I recently received my Sur-ron X and it's been great - I went to adjust the rear suspension though (FASTACE BDA53RC is the shock being used) and I turned the blue nob on top all the way in one direction (I think it was counter clockwise, but can't quite recall) and now it's completely stuck. I can't budge it an inch.

                  The red nob at the bottom turns fine by comparison.

                  Is this a common thing that has an easy fix to it?

                  Comment


                  • paxtana
                    paxtana commented
                    Editing a comment
                    got a pic? ..might be best to email us on this one

                  • Erzant
                    Erzant commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Hey Paxtana - I actually ended up getting it dislodged by using the small holes on either side of the blue compression knob. I used a tool that fit in the holes and it allowed me to get the leverage needed to make the thing move again.

                    My only problem now is that the nitrogen in the reservoir has either all or partially gone away as I tried to release some pressure there in my attempts to get the knob to move.

                    So I need to run to a suspension shop and fill it up with nitrogen. Can you tell me what the advised PSI should be inside the shock? I would assume somewhere in the 170-200 range?

                    Let me know - thanks!

                  • Erzant
                    Erzant commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Also, to fill the reservoir with nitrogen, it looks like he'll need to use a needle? Doesn't look like a schrader valve setup.

                  Thank you so much!

                  Comment

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