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    Hi I have a mid drive bbs02 and recently it loses power intermittently. Charge it full. Start riding and after awhile it will go off For a minute or 2 and back on. I opened the battery enclosure and didn’t see loose connection. How can I tell what is the issue? I can buy a new controller but what if it turns out not to be the issue? Thanks.

    Comment


    • mad_max
      mad_max commented
      Editing a comment
      I had the same problem. For other reasons I replaced the motor with BBSHD while keeping the same battery and controller, and I don't have the problem any more. Could be the motor controller. I suspect that controller has a high temperature cutoff. Maybe you can find info on this forum. Does your motor cut out after running at a high power level? Does it ever happen when you first start riding?

      The first thing to do is try to diagnose the problem based on evidence and knowledge of how the system works. The alternative is to replace parts until the problem goes away. Both approaches work, but the former is usually cheaper.
      Last edited by mad_max; 07-19-2020, 08:42 AM.

    Hi Max thanks for the reply. It happens when I ride casually and a few minutes after I start riding. It goes on and off. It doesn’t seem related to speed. What could it be other than the controller and how can I find out? Purchased the kit including battery in Dec 2017 and replaced the controller in July 2018. Battery is shark 52v 13.5 amp. Thanks.
    Last edited by turgi; 07-19-2020, 10:41 AM.

    Comment


    • mad_max
      mad_max commented
      Editing a comment
      Turgi,
      Does the controller display stay on when you loose power? Do you see any error messages on the display? Does power come back of its own accord?
      My controller would go dark when the motor lost power. I had to turn the controller back on, at which point the motor would work again for awhile. It sounds like you might have a different problem.

      I have been looking through my motor and controller manuals, and they are not a lot of help. They tell how to install and set up, but no much deep information such as how the controller communicates with the battery and motor, and what the wires in the various cables do. Without that kind of information it is very difficult to diagnose anything from first principles.

      So that leaves careful observation and reasoning such as rverstee suggests below. Check everything you can, even if it isn't obviously connected to the problem. Or buy a new controller and see if it helps. In the worst case it doesn't, but at least you have a spare controller.

      I wish you success,

      Max

    I bought ebike brake handles with brake sensors built in that connect to the controller via a black two pin connector. The controller has two identical large white connectors that are labeled "low brake". Can i solder on new connectors to match? Do i need different brake sensors? What are these connectors called? I think the black ones are JST something but I am not sure. The motor is a cyclone 3kW if that makes a difference. Any help is appreciated..
    ​​​

    Comment


      Hi, my 52V Advanced Luna Charger up and quit on me in mid-charge yesterday. I looked on the site but found no troubleshooting steps and don't see a breaker or reset button on the unit. Is this a warranty issue or is there something I can do to get it to work again?

      Thanks, Tim

      Comment


        Hi Turgi,
        Make sure your brake sensors are working. One of my brake handles is the stock handle (not an e- brake) with magnet attached, If magnet gets a little loose, you may loose power intermittently - until it gets really loose or falls off- then you are stuck till you fix it. Should be an indicator on the display that shows if the brake is disabling the motor. Check all connections including where you attach the battery to the bike - I had a problem once where battery wasn’t seated correctly. You’ve had the bike for awhile, something may be working itself loose. Have you fully charged the battery recently to balance the cells? If casual riding, are you consistently doing something that takes more power when it cuts off - like going up a hill?Hi Turgi,
        Make sure your brake sensors are working. One of my brake handles is the stock handle (not an e- brake) with magnet attached, If magnet gets a little loose, you may loose power intermittently - until it gets really loose or falls off- then you are stuck till you fix it. Should be an indicator on the display that shows if the brake is disabling the motor. Check all connections including where you attach the battery to the bike - I had a problem once where battery wasn’t seated correctly. You’ve had the bike for awhile, something may be working itself loose. Have you fully charged the battery recently to balance the cells? If casual riding, are you consistently doing something that takes more power when it cuts off - like going up a hill?Hi Turgi,
        Make sure your brake sensors are working. One of my brake handles is the stock handle (not an e- brake) with magnet attached, If magnet gets a little loose, you may loose power intermittently - until it gets really loose or falls off- then you are stuck till you fix it. Should be an indicator on the display that shows if the brake is disabling the motor. Check all connections including where you attach the battery to the bike - I had a problem once where battery wasn’t seated correctly. You’ve had the bike for awhile, something may be working itself loose. Have you fully charged the battery recently to balance the cells? If casual riding, are you consistently doing something that takes more power when it cuts off - like going up a hill?

        Comment


          Hi everyone!

          so I am Modifying my stealth bomber clone and came across an issue with my throttle. I have a half twist throttle that pretty much sucks. It has a massive dead zone before starting the motor. So i either regrip once to start and then again when wide open, otherwise my wrist is cranked, even though I’m using the MX elbows up/v-grip hand technique (turning throttle more like a doorknob rather than with a straight forearm elbow down). Anyway, I first tried adding a mini variable potentiometer to the Ground cable between throttle and the controller. It just gave me a throttle error message on screen. I followed the instructions of an endless sphere post but I’m guessing my controller and screen are incompatible as the OP of the instructions uses a cycle analyst as his controller screen. So I bought the domino ebike 5k waterproof throttle that everyone seems to love. Now mind you, I am a complete newb and can barely start my dremel soldering torch, let alone figure out how to wire this up and use a five pin connector doohickey. Can someone please help me figure this out cuz It came without any instructions whatsoever. They probably figure that anyone doing the job must know their basic stuff I guess... not me tho

          Comment


          Originally posted by rverstee View Post
          Hi Turgi,
          Make sure your brake sensors are working. One of my brake handles is the stock handle (not an e- brake) with magnet attached, If magnet gets a little loose, you may loose power intermittently - until it gets really loose or falls off- then you are stuck till you fix it. Should be an indicator on the display that shows if the brake is disabling the motor. Check all connections including where you attach the battery to the bike - I had a problem once where battery wasn’t seated correctly. You’ve had the bike for awhile, something may be working itself loose. Have you fully charged the battery recently to balance the cells? If casual riding, are you consistently doing something that takes more power when it cuts off - like going up a hill?
          That was it you nailed it. Disengaged the break wire and the hiccups were gone. Thanks so much!

          Comment


            Originally posted by KoEnSide View Post
            I bought ebike brake handles with brake sensors built in that connect to the controller via a black two pin connector. The controller has two identical large white connectors that are labeled "low brake". Can i solder on new connectors to match? Do i need different brake sensors? What are these connectors called? I think the black ones are JST something but I am not sure. The motor is a cyclone 3kW if that makes a difference. Any help is appreciated..
            ​​​
            If you are only going to do this once or twice buy an assortment of jst connectors and solder them in place.



            There are different jst connectors so make sure you get the the ones with the little locking tab.

            Comment


              Can you please tell me what type and size bolts/screws are needed to attach the stock 46T chainring to the BBSHD motor. Thank you!

              Comment


              • ncmired
                ncmired commented
                Editing a comment
                M5 x 10mm I believe - usually hex socket head but they don't have to be.

              Hello, I recently received my Sur-ron X and it's been great - I went to adjust the rear suspension though (FASTACE BDA53RC is the shock being used) and I turned the blue nob on top all the way in one direction (I think it was counter clockwise, but can't quite recall) and now it's completely stuck. I can't budge it an inch.

              The red nob at the bottom turns fine by comparison.

              Is this a common thing that has an easy fix to it?

              Comment


              • paxtana
                paxtana commented
                Editing a comment
                got a pic? ..might be best to email us on this one

              • Erzant
                Erzant commented
                Editing a comment
                Hey Paxtana - I actually ended up getting it dislodged by using the small holes on either side of the blue compression knob. I used a tool that fit in the holes and it allowed me to get the leverage needed to make the thing move again.

                My only problem now is that the nitrogen in the reservoir has either all or partially gone away as I tried to release some pressure there in my attempts to get the knob to move.

                So I need to run to a suspension shop and fill it up with nitrogen. Can you tell me what the advised PSI should be inside the shock? I would assume somewhere in the 170-200 range?

                Let me know - thanks!

              • Erzant
                Erzant commented
                Editing a comment
                Also, to fill the reservoir with nitrogen, it looks like he'll need to use a needle? Doesn't look like a schrader valve setup.

              Thank you so much!

              Comment


                ok is there anyone who could provide pics and or advise on the wiring of a 12volt front light and a 3 in 1 switch i tried to follow from instructions of id of wires for each item but no luck so far so i am trying to look again on net and go back over my notes of each wire identfication per part i am using a 12 volt battery to get things connected right so i can make a harness before i attach to bike i am gratefull for any help

                Comment


                • Lherbert
                  Lherbert commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Most likely all ground wires to batt neg. 1 main positive wire from the batt. To the Positive to the switch the other wires coming out of the the switch attach to the component light ect. Bottom line the switch is the break in the circuit so it does not get grounded


                Roam 2 Disc Size L (2020) E-Bike conversion?



                Attached are the dimensions to the bike. I'm an nyc courier that is completely new to this so I am looking to already use my roam 2 disc instead of buying an ebike. I also have a rack that could be installed with it.

                Comment


                  Can someone tell me which part to order? This is photos of my Luna X-1 crank arm. The cover fell off, so I ordered a Bafang Crank Arm bolt from Luna, and it's not the correct part. Thanks in advance!
                  Attached Files

                  Comment


                  • Bullfrog
                    Bullfrog commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Looks like an ISIS crank...you need a M15 bolt for an ISIS crank.

                    Bafang BBSHD uses a square taper crank. ISIS and Square Taper are the two main types of cranks used now. You can probably pick up the bolt you need from the local bike shop as well.

                    It is not absolutely necessary as the clamping force is what holds the crank arm on the crank...it is just a plug and an additional safety in case your clamp bolt gets loose.
                    Last edited by Bullfrog; 07-29-2020, 05:26 AM.

                  I have about 1500 mi on my eBike with no significant problems--until today :(.

                  I rode about 1 mile on full charge and locked up my bike while I hiked for 2 hours with some friends. It was about 80 degrees Fahrenheit. When I returned to my bike, I hopped on and started to ride on PAS 2. BUT after about 500 yards, my Luna display showed ERROR, the motor stopped working, and the wattage fell to and stayed at 000. I tried turning off the battery and turning it back on, but nothing. In fact, now the display would not even turn on! I rode the bike home on no power and left it in the shade.

                  A few hours later, I was able to turn both the battery and display on. Went for a short test ride and no issue. So that's good. As long as it doesn't keep happening...

                  Any idea about what is going on? Is this a known thing? Did the battery just overheat in the (not that hot) sun? Or do I have perhaps a bigger problem and only time will tell?

                  Comment


                  • jstew
                    jstew commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Didn't get any replies but turns out the error seems to have been caused by the speed sensor magnet slipping out of position, in case anyone has a similar issue. I think the display not turning on was just user error -- that did not replicate.
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