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    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      If the video was not help you might want a different display, the more recent color displays are much easier to use and they look a lot nicer too

    i have a bbshd that i built for my wife bought through luna. the throttle and pas stopped working at the same time.
    luna was out controllers so i purchased one through golden motor out of canada. I dont have shift sensors or brake sensors installed . display turns on with no codes
    Replaced controller with no change. The bike has about 100 miles on it and wondering if anyone knows if i need a luna specific controller?
    There has been some education on not using high gear and climbing steep hills.
    Any sugestions?

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      If neither the replacement controller or the original controller works, AND you are able to power on your system with no codes, as well as no additional components like ebrakes installed, then it is pretty likely either the core got burnt up or it was plugged in incorrectly. I would unplug everything, plug it back in, and if no joy, pull the core and inspect it

    Have a loose wire connection for throttle where the red arrow is in this harness image. I have bent the loose wire backward as a short term solution but won't last and plan to get a new harness. Hoping not to re-route the entire harness as it's internally routed and will be a PITA to re-route. It seems the harness unscrews where the blue arrow is but not brave enough to tug on the wire to see what happens. Does anyone know if you can tap into the harness where the blue arrow is? Or will I be stuck having to re-route the entire harness?

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      It does not unplug or unscrew from there. That is a strain relief

    • tomdav
      tomdav commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks Gary, oh well...



    I need help please...I bought a used ebike with a Bafang Ultra (also known as the M620 and G.510). I noticed the head light acts like a brake light..becomes brighter when braking. I found the schematic of the motor and discovered the front light was incorrectly plugged into the “rear” light connector inside the motor housing.

    My question is..Does Luna carry the Front Light Cable with the correct connector? One is larger than other (male & Female). Or, does anyone know the name of the BLUE connectors so I can make my own cable?

    My plan is to reroute the existing cable that is designed for the rear to the rear, and to either purchase or make the correct cable going to the front light.

    Thanks in advance..See pictures.


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    Attached Files
    Last edited by CactusPilot; 08-15-2020, 01:09 PM.

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      sorry we don't support products bought elsewhere

    • CactusPilot
      CactusPilot commented
      Editing a comment
      Well, I’m willing to purchase what it needed from luna. I am also interested in upgrading the controller to your Ludicrous Ive read so much about..Is this possible?

    I posted this in Troubleshooting also....

    So i have a Luna bbshd , standard luna tuning , currently 2600 miles with zero problems. 750c display .
    recently got an error 30H . the display stopped displaying a watt readout or speed readout . The battery % went to 80/60/40 , nothing else .
    The bike still works , throttle works , pas works , but feels very underpowered. The thumb buttons work , I can still toggle through all the diff displays , lets me change pas level .
    I've been checking the battery level manually with a multimeter , and it seems to be draining at a normal rate .
    I thought it was the controller , I swapped with another, and got exact same results , code still there .
    is the Display bad ?
    Is the motor core bad ?
    I feel like i havent used it very hard , but i do use my bike daily.
    Any assistance or advice on how to check individual things would be greatly appreciated .
    This is my primary transportation, and I'm anxious to get it back to full performance

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      Could be the core. Have you tried bypassing the display with a program cable to eliminate that as a potential cause?

    I have a programming cable on the way . That's the next thing I want to try .
    right now the throttle works , and PAS works , so with the programming cable bypassing the display , how will I know if anything is different ?

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      Well presumably the speed / power issue would go away

      That's probably not it since you still are good. Oh, also check that harness for any bends, kinks, tears, cuts, abrasions, etc

      If you got time to kill might as well pull the core now and inspect it

    Ok, so if I take things apart , what would I be looking for ?
    is there pictures of what a bad , burned out core would look like ?

    Comment


      ...like I said , this is my primary transportation, and I use it to commute daily, so as it is currently working at least a little , I'm still trying to keep it together until I have parts to swap out

      Comment


        Hello. New to the Sur Ron family and loving it. An odd question but is it possible to make a power pack/bank like you use for your cell phones.I see a few vids of riders running out of juice on trails or close to home.Maybe a super charged pack that can give you maybe 20 pct increase quickly in battery life and that would be Somewhat light weight to throw in you backpack. Thank you

        Comment


        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          It may be possible to make a 60v nominal li-ion backpack battery that would do that. At a minimum you would need to match the discharge plug.

        I have a BABE with the new bafang motor and the sturmey archer igh. I need to replace the shifter cable because the retaining ring popped loose that holds on the cog and chewed the cable. Can I just thread it from the top down through the frame and motor or is it going to get stuck on stuff?

        Comment


        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          If not sure it would be advisable to have a local bike shop do that

        • martyleach
          martyleach commented
          Editing a comment
          paxtana, I guess that is a you don't know and aren't willing to ask people that do. My bike has 29 miles on it and broke. The local bike shop doesn't even know what a Sturmey-Archer hub is as they only deal in high end mountain bikes. Just hoping for a little help and guess it's not going to happen.

        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          To be fair the question you are asking does not lend itself to a quick answer. Here is how to fix the clip https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jiO1yqAN2mc

          As to the cable if you need a walkthrough I would advise to email support@lunacycle.com and speak with our lead support technician. Protip: include a picture so he actually can see the issue you are referring to

        Hi,

        I have a Shark 52v 13.5Ah battery pack that won't take a charge.

        I have looked through a lot of the posts and guides, and am reasonably good with electronics/have no problem soldering (thanks, Dad, for this life skill!).

        Background
        • Battery was in storage for months. At full charge (I didn't expect it to remain in storage, but this has been an odd year).
        • A few weeks ago, the battery would hold a charge, powering the bike at 100%, but then suddenly conk out.
        Here's what I've found
        • Charger works correctly. Output voltage is 58V, and it produces enough current to light an incandecent bulb. Fan comes on.
        • Voltage on pins of shark are 52V, between either negative or positive pin. It's not enough to power on the controller.
        • Voltage on pins of charging point are also 52V and, checking the same thing another way, there's continuity with the BMS.
        • I tried "jumping the shark". First time, it appeared to work — fan whirred to life. But after plugging in to charge it, the fan didn't stay on. The battery didn't charge. Have tried jumping many times since; no dice.
        • Pressing the power button shows one LED come on (i.e. flat/zero charge). But there IS a light! (so the BMS isn't broken in that way - it can cause the display to function).
        • Opened it up, and all wires seem intact. There's some physical damage to the bottom of the battery's plastic housing, so I do suspect something has come loose.
        • Checking between voltage of the pins on the BMS (just like on your YouTube tutorial) I don't record ANY voltage. The connector seems snugly fit. It might be that my multimeter isn't good at reading those voltages for some reason — it's not some fancy multimeter, it's super basic.
        At this stage I suspect it's either
        • An intermittent wiring fault... I might go resolder them all.
        • BMS, even though the symptoms aren't as elsewhere.
        If it's the BMS — is there a different hard reset procedure I can follow?

        Or if not, I'm happy to replace the BMS; is it possible to get the same one used by Luna Cycle? 14S, 30A/50A burst (this came with a "Ludicrous" bike).

        Thanks!

        Comment


        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          If you are getting zero volts on the bms pins then it is likely the measurement was not done correctly, it should show something, even if it is low.

          You are probably going to need to make a support ticket so Seb can help with this one. At a minimum charging through discharge should work since there would be no mechanism to prevent charging, as the bms does not prevent charging through discharge. Email support@lunacycle.com attn:seb

        • dana
          dana commented
          Editing a comment
          Thanks @paxtana

          You're right, I didn't realise there was a layer of something (I think a non-conducting sealant spray) protecting the pins and the whole board. I scraped it off and confirmed the cells are all at 4.2V.

          I contacted Seb as you suggested. Thanks.

        Luna KHS 500 w/Ludicrous; 52V. Battery material discharge. Just noticed this today. Charged with the Luna Charger @ 80% 2A; Battery has maybe 8 charge cycles on it, first 5 with star charger to 100%, last three with the Luna charger. this ooze just appeared. ? Overcharge?
        Attached Files

        Comment


        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          That's the antispark resistor. It happens if you don't plug it in all the way when running the bike. Still usable if you clean out any crud on both that connector and on the controller, by forcing it, but it will spark when plugging in since the antispark resistor got damaged.

          There's a backup XT90-S below it, just pull off that cover. Make sure you got it fully plugged in when operating

          This video explains it more https://youtu.be/7PwdlPOl1zg

        Thanks for making the battery with back up connections!

        Comment


          Re: the green "ooze" issue. Noticed the exact same thing on my Luna Wolf Pup battery connector after the battery shut down prematurely during a ride. Prior to seeing this posting, I didn't know what it was, but assumed it was preventing full contact, as the connectors could not be full engaged, so I cut off the "ooze"(actually more like hard plastic, I originally thought it was a defect from the molding process) with a knife, then cleaned the inside of the connector barrel with Q-Tips, as it was black. Then I was able to FULLY plug the two connectors together, and no problems since (about 700 miles later). Watching the video link provided above, I conclude that the reason the battery shut down prematurely was the high resistance connection (6-8 ohms) through the spark arrestor. I assumed at the time that the 'ooze' was causing a bad connection, but didn't know the cause. Now I do! So, the moral of the story is, make sure you plug the connectors ALL THE WAY together! Who knew? Luna should include a note to that extent with the batteries for Newbies.

          My questions to Paxtana are: Is the green "ooze" the resistor? Have I ruined the spark arrestor in the connector? Is is safe to still use this connection?

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          Comment


          • paxtana
            paxtana commented
            Editing a comment
            Yes it is still safe to use, yes that is the resistor. It is a sort of plastic in its normal state, but as the resistance is high, if full power is forced to go through that resistor, it gets hot and melts.

            But yes the antispark is gone in that connector. On the pup that is wired rather than built directly into the battery, so you could replace it fairly easily and soldering a new one on in its place. Or, if you prefer you could just get a short extension with xt90-s on it and leave it permanently plugged into that connector in order to regain your antispark benefits.

          Do you sell a spare xt90 jumper wire or should I get one at another source?

          Comment

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