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    is there a more accurate setting for tire diameter then just wheel size in the Luna 750 display. i think my speed and distance is off about 10-12%
    im running 26x4.25 tires Click image for larger version

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    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      Fatbikes are more like a 29er in terms of total wheel size, not sure if 750c has that as an option but some displays do

    I have a Panasonic GA 52V 10ah battery and Luna Energizer charger. All of a sudden the battery will not charge. The voltage is now down to 50v. The charger light is green for about 60 secs then charges for maybe 1 sec, the red light comes on and the fan, then goes back to green again and the fan stops for another 60 sec., over and over again but not enough to charge the battery at all. During the 1 sec it is charging the voltage goes from 50v to 51.5v then back to 50v again when it stops. Is it the battery or the charger? Can either one be repaired?

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      Sounds like the charger. If it's a mini it would have come with a small device that goes on the end to prevent that. If it is not a mini it probably needs replaced

    You were correct. It is the charger that is bad. I found another charger and it charges the battery with no problem. Not as fancy as the Energizer but at least it works.
    Last edited by RonCR; 08-28-2020, 09:39 AM.

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      I'm in the middle of a BBSHD mountain bike conversion. I'm having trouble trying to figure out how to mount the hydraulic brake sensors. The brake handles don't move very far and therefore they don't separate the sensor from the battery. Do you have any suggestions or videos or forum discussing just this topic? Thanks,
      Tim

      Comment


      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        Personally I would forego the sensors, it's not what I would consider a necessary accessory

      • Jack H
        Jack H commented
        Editing a comment
        Tim...Like Paxtana says.....you don't really need the sensors...just back pedal to stop the motor, or quit pedaling and wait a tad before you shift.
        I put the brake sensors on and didn't like them....
        When you stop pedaling the motor spins for a bit. After a while you will be able to use that as an automatic transmission..Meaning, it will shift without pedaling...
        Just be careful and you won't have a problem...

      Hi.
      I purchased a "like new" Luna Lone Wolf Hard Tail 2500. It has a squeaking sound when riding, sounds like its coming from the rear disc brake but it only happens when not braking. Any idea how I can fix this?

      Thanks in advance.
      Matt

      Comment


      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        Same as any other bicycle. Inspect it, reposition the caliper, and maybe replace the pads.

      Believe I have a faulty USB socket on my Sur-Ron delivered early July 2020.

      Tested voltage at the wire connectors at the back of the socket and its 12V+. The socket doesn't light up nor does it pass power to a connected device. Faulty socket? If so, please advise if replacement possible?

      Never noticed it until my son and I switched bikes and he commented on how mine was not lit up.

      Comment


      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        Yes it's likely broken somehow. Yes it can be replaced. I'm not sure if we have any but we do have a source for them at a minimum last I checked if you want to hit us up on email

      Is the 54T CR80 Sprocket, for use on Sur-Ron with adapter, made of aluminum or steel?

      Comment


        Are the wiring looms of the BBS02 and HD the same?

        I have two bikes with 02 and HD motors and i just want to swap the motors around... if possible!??

        Comment


        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          Yes that is possible

        I have a 28ah battery with a ludicrous controller 750c display and new main harness. The problem is, my display shows 51vdc but I have 55vdc at the battery. The display has been ruled out. Where could the problem be?
        Is there a display out there where will accurately display the proper 52vdc system and the wattage of the ludicrous controller? Thanks!

        Comment


        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          You could wire up a wattmeter in line with discharge. That would accurately display both.

        I recently purchased a khs500 with the 2500w ludicrous upgrade. But on my mighy mini display its showing that my peak wattage only hits 1200ish. Is this correct?

        Comment


        Ty. I assumed that it would be something like that. I apologize for failing to read it the first time though.

        BTW the bike is a monster. I took it to my local shop and they were blown away. One of the owners said that it was the smoothest ebike that he's ever ridden.

        Comment


        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          That model's one of my favorites too :)

        Originally posted by dwturbo70 View Post
        I have a 28ah battery with a ludicrous controller 750c display and new main harness. The problem is, my display shows 51vdc but I have 55vdc at the battery. The display has been ruled out. Where could the problem be?
        Is there a display out there where will accurately display the proper 52vdc system and the wattage of the ludicrous controller? Thanks!
        I have now tried a different display and new main wiring harness and still there is a 4 volt drop at the display. The main battery cable and charging connector both read 55vdc, while display reads 51vdc when fully charged to 80%. Would this be a controller issue? The entire drive unit was just rebuilt by Luna. Any suggestions would help!

        Comment


        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          Do you mean besides suggesting the watt meter

        So I have a bike that I installed a bbso2 kit on. Due to circumstances completely under my control it fell off a dock into about 50ft of saltwater. I was able to fish the bike out (literally with a large hook and Lead weight) and it was only in the water about 2 hours. The battery was of course smoking and steaming so it is shot, my question relates to what is the viability of the rest of the components. I took the motor off and opened it up and it had a small amount of water in it, but I don’t know how much drained out before I opened it. I removed the rotor and the windings and blew them out with air and then rinsed them in 99% isopropyl alcohol and blew them out again. The control board is imbedded in some rubber compound so I’m hopeful that it was not damaged. I also checked, cleaned, and applied dielectric grease to the connections in the motor housing and cleaned and re-greased the gears. I have not applied any power to the system and would like any pointers on how best to test components without damaging any others that may be working. I know there is a good chance everything is toast but I am hopeful that I can just buy a new battery and one or two components and get her working again.

        thanks
        Geoff

        Comment


        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          Salt is not very soluble in isopropyl alcohol so it is probable you still got salt in there.

          I suppose you could try some electrical contact cleaner but the cost would add up quick, for something that is probably already ruined I hate to see you lose more money. Odds are at a minimum that controller will need replaced. Yes it is potted but there is plenty of ways water would penetrate if submerged for hours. If I were you I would have the controller completely unplugged from the motor when connecting a power source to test it. All you need is the power source, the harness, and a display connected to the harness. Hit power on display, and see if it powers up. If so, then you may be good. If not, then I can't imagine you would be doing the rest of the motor any favors by plugging the controller into it.

          On the core, if you do wash it out with something like contact cleaner or some other solvent that salt is more soluble in, be sure to remove the rotor so you can get into all the nooks and crannies of the stator. Good luck.

        One of our LightBee's rear suspension linkage feels a little loose when I pick up the back of the bike. Upon disassembling the middle link, the play is coming from the needle bearings. The metal bushing is a little loose when seated in the needle bearings. There are two pressed in on that link. Do you have replacement links or needle bearings? What size are they... if I can find there somewhere else. I have used similar needle bearings on my DH bike's shock mounts instead of DU bushings. Any help would be appreciated!

        Comment


        Any help appreciated!! I have a fat tire bike with a bbshd motor 48v 11.5ah battery pack.
        30th chainring and 11-46 rear cassette. The problem i am having is when going up steep hills that are long even on a full charge the battery meter will drop from 100% to 50 sometimes and even stop completely. I can turn off the battery power then turn it back on and go again. It does this same thing with each of my battery packs. Do you think my battery is sagging so
        bad under the load up the steep hill or what? Was thinking maybe i need a bigger battery, also would 52 volt be a noticeable difference or should i stay with 48 and get a bigger AH PACK? Thanks

        Comment


        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          Yes sounds like normal voltage sag. If the battery is old then this is typical of an older pack, and the older it is, the more sag you will see, especially under load.

          One option would be to reprogram the controller, reduce the Max Current setting. This would make it less fun to ride though.

          Second option would indeed be a bigger battery. More capacity (ah) would be preferable. The more parallel strings you have the more it will spread out that load, which in turn means less sag. Also means lower potential depth of discharge per ride which can also have knock-on benefits for reducing sag on rides.

          More voltage just means more top speed. If you want more speed then sure 52v is the way to go. If you are satisfied with current speed and just want less sag, then all you need is more capacity
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