I have the cyclone mini motor using it on a drift trike, are there any motor sprockets that are larger than 14 tooth that are compatible? I'm looking for something around 20 tooth.
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I recently bought the Luna Eclipse 42T chainring for my BBSHD, to fix the chainline issue I was having.
Can Luna recommend a chain guard that fits over the 42T? I got a cool, new Hebie chain guard, but it doesn't fit over the chainring bolts.
Thanks in advance, -PeterLast edited by blueclaws; 12-23-2020, 02:56 PM.
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blueclaws...two things I do:
A. I tie my shoe laces in double, triple, quad or just keep tying multiple knots in my laces until they are too short to reach the chain ring/chain intersection. My buddy just uses duct tape and tapes over his laces to keep them out of the way.
B. You might also want to do something to keep your pants leg from getting caught in the chain rin/chain...I use a big rubber band around the bottom of my pants leg. Had my pants get caught one time and rolling the bike backwards doesn't help because the freewheel spins and the motor won't turn backwards and I couldn't go forward because my leg couldn't pass the pedal/crank arm. My buddy had a knife so I ended up cutting my pants leg off which of course ruined my relatively new pair of Levis.
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Bummer. Thanks for the quick reply.
I wonder if I am overly concerned about foot/shoelace safety. When I am in throttle mode with my BBSHD (i.e. no pedaling), I see the chainring under me spinning at a very fast speed, very close to my shoes/laces which are stationary on the pedals. I get nervous about a high speed chain / high torque motor / gear teeth accident happening when I move my right foot into the wrong position. In contrast with pedal assist mode or a regular bicycle, feet and chainring/chain are moving at same speed and less chance of an accident happening. Or if an accident happens, you're quickly alerted to it and stop pedaling before it gets worse.
Thanks, -Peter
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Its a good concern to have because with the motor just because you stop pedaling doesn't mean its going to stop sucking you in. I got my pants leg stuck on my bike with the Lekkie and I was really stuck. I was riding SPD cleats and boots so I really didn't have options other than to try and reverse which wasn't easy in frozen snow. I was riding for several hours earlier the same day with the same boots and pants on my bike with the eclipse and never had the issue I think because the offset is so great you really have to have something loose to get up there.
I did find a 3d printed guard for the Lekkie and it seems to be holding up OK. Not sure if its working or not because I now have pants that fit my boots really well. I'm thinking if you had something like shoe laces that were so loose they could catch on the eclipse I'm not sure a guard would help.
Have you explored more cycling specific shoes? Many of them either now use the BOA system or have a velcro strap flap sort of thing that goes over the laces.
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That was my conclusion as well. I'm sure I have friends that could slap together a chainguard even if it's just something you ziptie to the frame, but if your clothes are so loose that it is a concern, you should be wearing different clothes.
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Originally posted by blueclaws View PostBummer. Thanks for the quick reply.
I wonder if I am overly concerned about foot/shoelace safety. When I am in throttle mode with my BBSHD (i.e. no pedaling), I see the chainring under me spinning at a very fast speed, very close to my shoes/laces which are stationary on the pedals. I get nervous about a high speed chain / high torque motor / gear teeth accident happening when I move my right foot into the wrong position. In contrast with pedal assist mode or a regular bicycle, feet and chainring/chain are moving at same speed and less chance of an accident happening. Or if an accident happens, you're quickly alerted to it and stop pedaling before it gets worse.
Thanks, -Peter
I've been pretty lucky myself though without a guard. I've never had my laces or my loose pant legs get caught in the chain/chainring. I would suggest running a guard though. I"m a fabricator and plan on making a custom one myself, with a diameter significantly larger than the chain ring.... But when it comes to my own personal stuff I have a habit of procrastinating, so we'll see how long it takes me to get around to it, lol.
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I purchased a BBSHD Motor Kit with the Hot Rod Program. After having problems with the Controller, I ordered from you, and have have received a 1000watt replacement Controller. Is this Controller a direct replacement or will I have to reprogram it to the Hot Rod specifications? Are these numbers available to me or will you [Luna] need to reprogram the Controller at your shop?
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Problem:bafang BBSHD with 52v shark pack dies suddenly at about 1/2 charge (indicated on bafang bar display) .
I have several of these, have never had this problem: after about a year and maybe 100 cycles, the battery pack suddenly pulls a full shutdown (screen blank) with about 1/2 charge, no warning at all! Dead!
So I got another BMS and replaced it by opening up the battery. It made NO difference, still does the exact same thing.
I have older batteries that give warning, gradual cut-out around 1/4 charge but I always get home, never fully shuts down, display is always still on.
What is this !
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Get a multimeter or put your display on voltage reading, those bar gauges are notoriously inaccurate. Once you do either of these things, get the voltage reading. Would like to see what voltage it is at resting, and what voltage it pulls down to under load. It is winter; and worth keeping in mind that during winter rides, you will see significantly more voltage sag under load, which is common for all lithium batteries when exposed to freezing temps. This sag is exacerbated by age, cycles, and how the battery has been treated over its lifetime.
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Is there a chain ring option for the BBSHD that has a deeper inside offset than the stock chain ring? Even though I don't have a fat bike, I bought the 100mm HD because I plan on building a fat bike at some point in the near future, and want to be able to use this motor for that build when the time comes. For now, to deal with the chain alignment issue, I just have the motor offset to one side of the bike. If I can find a chain ring with more of an inside offset, I would be able to center the motor.
It's funny though, because you'd think it would feel awkward having the motor offset to one side like that (and the pedals by consequence) but it doesn't at all. I really don't even notice it. It feels perfectly normal. The only thing I don't like about it is the increased torque on the bottom bracket from having the crank and pedal out so far away from it.
Anyway, again, does anyone make a chain ring with a deeper inside offset than the stock one?
Thanks
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Originally posted by Steve-- View PostIs there a chain ring option for the BBSHD that has a deeper inside offset than the stock chain ring? Even though I don't have a fat bike, I bought the 100mm HD because I plan on building a fat bike at some point in the near future, and want to be able to use this motor for that build when the time comes. For now, to deal with the chain alignment issue, I just have the motor offset to one side of the bike. If I can find a chain ring with more of an inside offset, I would be able to center the motor.
It's funny though, because you'd think it would feel awkward having the motor offset to one side like that (and the pedals by consequence) but it doesn't at all. I really don't even notice it. It feels perfectly normal. The only thing I don't like about it is the increased torque on the bottom bracket from having the crank and pedal out so far away from it.
Anyway, again, does anyone make a chain ring with a deeper inside offset than the stock one?
Thanks
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Correct.
https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...g-offset-guide
Stock is 19, lekkie is 20.4, eclipse is 24.8mm
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A gear on a cassette is 4-5mm so that extra almost 6mm is just over a gears worth of spacing. If your having issues with your lowest gear but 2nd is Ok then it would be worth it. The Eclipse basically puts the chain against the side of the controller. I did find out you can still get a chain jammed in there but its hard to get out. Make sure you have the clearance by the chain stay for more offset. Pretty easy when you have the stock one because you can just look at the gap.
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I have Luna cranks and have to use a crank tool to pull it. Apparenetly my standard Park Tool CWP-7 will not work with the smaller diameter bolt in the Luna cranks. What do you recommend? Thanks!
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Sounds like it might be stripped. Here is how it works https://youtu.be/mxAj-zbynPI
Maybe you could tap it off with a mallet or something but I am guessing it needs replaced if it no longer extracts itself.
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Well the red retaining ring fell off months ago (I asked if you had ant replacements and the answer was no), so the video link explains why it isn't self extracting. I guess I can use the ring from the other crank to make it self extracting? Unless you have replacement retaining rings in stock?
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Hi,
Suggestions for troubleshooting intermittent voltage drops? Once every 10 or 20 miles, over several weeks, electric assist and throttle will cut out. Indicated voltage is in 33-38V. After either a few minutes, or some wiggling wires, voltage will come back to 50 - 52V and everything is fine again. It seems to happen at random times (early in ride, or late in ride), not related to load or bumpiness.
Where would you start looking for problems? In the external wiring/connectors? Or inside the battery pack?
BBSHD, DPC14, 52V 17Ah shark/dolphin pack.
thanks,
John
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That is where I would start as well.
This page has some pictures and video that may be of some use.
https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...5701#post35701
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46 volts is bottom end of 52 volt battery. Chemistry will bring back batteries after cooling and time. The looseness of wires external to battery output seems would not change battery potential. Underload a battery will read lower voltage and at rest the voltage increases. By the way 50 volts is less than half charged. 58 volts is top end or so. Resistance in system? Even a short. Is battery hot? If all looks well the I suppose the controller is suspect. The comments below seem to suggest a short. There should be some sign of heat. However I am no electric wizard. A simple voltage meter will let you read battery voltage off the bicycle when charged and when problem occurs. If battery is warm and voltage is low and recovers then it is being used up by a "short". Or heavy load (use). Suppose the brakes were on the whole time. This is kinda like a short in system.
Good luck
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The most recent BBS02 I purchased from Luna has the "Pedal Sensor Type" parameter of the programming set to "BB-Sensor-32" . All the others (maybe 4 or 5 over the past 5 years) have had this parameter set to "DoubleSignal-24".
What is the significance of this? Does the BBS02 have a "Pedal Sensor"?
Also, the controller on this unit still has the PAS over-ride glitch on the throttle that has vexed so many in recent years. Of the four that I can test, the ones with Firmware Version V2.0.1.1 (both version Bs, manufactured 9/16 and 11/20 )have the glitch. The ones with V2.0.0.1 (version A, manufactured 11/15) and V5.0.3.1 (version B, manufactured 1/16) do not.
Is the firmware the root of this problem? Has Luna tried using the V2.0.0.1 firmware on the newer Version B controllers?
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