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    Hi everyone,
    I have just got my new Surron LBX up and going. I'm a e-bike newbie. I have completed the 'green-wire cut' to remove the factory speed restrictions, which works perfectly, but the bike still 'beeps' when the bike goes over ~12kph. Its not a constant noise, but a regular intermittent beep. Can anyone help tell me how I can switch this speed warning off? Many Thanks in advance.

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      This thread is for Luna customers, since we do not ship overseas I am assuming you did not get it from us. We have never had any of our bikes 'beep'. You probably need to follow up directly with wherever you bought it from.

    • N-MAC
      N-MAC commented
      Editing a comment
      Okay, Thanks anyway!
      It's not a major issue, just a little annoying to have this constant beeping! I think it might be a left-over from the factory speed restrictions, but not sure how to turn it off.

    Hey guys, so I've got a BBSHD which has started cutting out frequently, like every few seconds at worst, and sometimes works for 10 minutes or more without cutting out.

    When it happens, the display does not turn off, so It can't be the battery, it simply goes from delivering e.g. 500W with PAS or Throttle, to 0W. Then suddenly kicks back in and does this repeatedly.
    Brake Cutoffs ends are sealed and covered in self amalgamating tape, no amount of wiggling the cables makes the power come back, it's seemingly random.

    When this happened a year ago, it was fixed by replacing the controller. It is of course possible that just removing the controller cables and reconnecting fixed it, and not the controller after all.

    Is there anything else I can try, any other diagnostics tests, such as disabling the brake cutoffs in the software?

    I have a spare controller but would rather return it and get £150 back if I can get this one working.

    I'm using an Eggrider, and don't see any error codes pop up. Come to think of it, I don't know where they show up on Eggrider or what page they are in


    Thanks!

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      I would check that there's no connector that is partially unplugged going from the controller to the motor, particularly the three phase wires.

      Does this happen when using both pedal assist and throttle?

    • 2speedBBS02
      2speedBBS02 commented
      Editing a comment
      ryno1, Have an early Yamaha E. I purchased an over-ride kit called "Speed Box." It is installed in the motor control wires. The system can be shut down or activated. When it is active the motor is unrestricted and the speed limiter is off. HOWEVER under heavy load the motor shuts down intermittently for a few seconds. Shutting off the over-ride eliminates the problem immediately. I believe that programming controller motor battery systems is problematic. Perhaps re-program your system to lower "output" That would be in the amps/watts allowed to motor
      system. I have BBSO2 running on 52 volts. It was programmed by LUNA people. It has very few problems however on hot days here in CA it does get warm to touch when pushed. When it is hot my feeling is that it is not running as well as when cold.

    I have just installed your bbhsd with the ludicrous controller, fully charged Wolf 52v 30Q battery and dpc18 display on a Juiced Scrambler bike (24" tall tires). Display is set for 60 mph.
    Bike will only draw 1300 watts and go a little over 25mph. Have I missed something?

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      Ludi controllers double current by halving what the controller reports to itself. If you want actual wattage, wire in a watt meter. This is covered many times, you can read more on the intro doc we wrote for pre-built bikes, it has a ludi section.

      As far as speed that depends entirely on your gearing, which includes the effective wheel diameter.

    Sorry, high gear is 46x14.
    Just want to know if this is the highest speed I can expect for this setup . Thanks

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      Not too sure on what you can expect with your specific bike, but I can tell you that on a typical 26" MTB if you are using a fully charged 52v battery and ludicrous you can often top out in the low 30s.

      Maybe go larger on the chainring to compensate for the smaller wheel diameter, that ought to gain you some extra speed on the top end. It will reduce torque a bit though.

    I figured out my problem after changing the controller to a new one. It was a faulty gear sensor all along, I disconnected it and no more constant cutting out

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      Ah, yes always good to unplug stuff like gearsensor and ebrakes when troubleshooting cutouts!

      Glad to hear you got it figured out!

    Is there and option for DC charging my Wolfpack? I'm about to install a 3-400 watt Solar system with a DC-DC Charger and 12 v 280ah Lithium battery in my minivan. That I will be using to travel the US later this year. It would be nice to be able to charge my 52v Wolfpacks from this system. I have the Advanced charger for charging from an AC outlet and I could install a rather large inverter in my system to do use that. But that would be the only reason for me to install such a large expensive inverter. And Charging in such a manor doesn't seem top be a very efficient use of power. So is there a DC charger for 52v Wolfpacks or is there a modification that could be made to the Advanced Charger to allow such a thing? I would gladly pay Luna for such charger as I imagine many other RVers and Van Lifers would as well.
    2018 Motobecane Boris Fat Bike BBSHD Build

    Comment


    Cool question. Do not want to sound ignorant but can you read the label on your charger? This should give you the output voltage. It will be DC as AC battery chargers only pass on the positive "wave". Then supply that voltage to battery. Close is good enough. However to push it in would require taking the current from the solar panels. Perhaps as long as the vehicle battery is connected to solar panel and showing a net charge then you can connect the 52 volt battery to the the system directly. This is the limit of my knowledge. I would be concerned with amperage as I do not think the voltage is as important. However the LiPo batteries need balancing and this is big problem. Help us Eric!
    Best

    Comment


      Hi guys,

      I’m buying a new battery for my BBSHD, and selling my old battery to my dad as it still works but doesn’t give me the range I want anymore.

      He’s bought a BBS02b which I’ll install. Question is, will the 52v 15AH battery I’m giving him be safe to use on the BBS02b, and is there anything I could program on the BBS02 using my EggRider which will protect it, such as some kind of limit I could set so it doesn’t get overworked with the 52v battery? He won’t be going crazy on it anyway, just riding on flat roads and some slight inclines, plus he’s only about 70Kg / 160lbs


      Thanks,

      Ry

      Comment


      • ncmired
        ncmired commented
        Editing a comment
        The battery should be fine, used on the BBS02.

      Thanks! Kit is arriving soon, I’ll give it a go

      Comment


        Using a 52 volt battery on my BBSO2. Works fine. Programmed at Luna. If has throttle can deliver a lot of power in some situations. I use 9 power levels as less can deliver too much power too quickly. Lever 5 is pretty strong on my set up. I have used many controllers but only reading voltage in battery seems accurate. I use a strip of green masking tape with voltage levels attached to handle bar. The levels I use are : 46.2v/46.3v (10%) BAD; 47.6v(20%) TIME TO SHUT OFF; 48.9v(30%); 50.2v(40%) Performance Beginning To Weaken; 51.5v(50%); 54.7v(75%) Machine Humming Along; 56.6v(90%); 57.4v/58.8v ("FULL")
        PS; Am old timer like your dad may be. 72old. UGH If this was helpful then good. PSS, Tell dad "Keep Shiny Side Up".

        Comment


        • kerrylaw
          kerrylaw commented
          Editing a comment
          I agree. I bought one of those 60volt displays off Ebay..... "LED Digital Voltmeter 12V-60V Car Marine Motorcycle Meter Gauge Battery O5T1". I mounted that on my handlebars... and plug it into my battery. I ALWAYS know my battery voltage. So good to know.

        Can anyone tell me whether or not the 5 hole plastic gear covers for the bbs02 are supposed to have the rubber seals on them like the 7 hole version do? I have two 8fun 5 hole covers, but neither of them have any rubber seals on them at all, but the 7 hole versions have rubber seals both around the center hole, and on the back side where it mates to the motor.

        Thanks
        Steve

        Comment


        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          Secondary reduction housing does not have gasket on bbs02. If you want that kind of protection you have to go bbshd.

        Originally posted by paxtana
        Secondary reduction housing does not have gasket on bbs02. If you want that kind of protection you have to go bbshd.
        I've never dealt with the 5 hole ones prior to the two that I just bought, so I wasn't certain if they were supposed to have the two seals on them or not, but the 7 hole version absolutely does have the two rubber seals I mentioned. I have 9 brand new ones right here in front of me. They all have a center seal that seals around the portion of the reduction gear that protrudes out through the plastic cover, the portion that the chain ring attaches to. They also each have a thin rubber seal/gasket all the way around the perimeter of the back side, where they mate to the motor. Both seals bonded to the plastic cover.


        Comment


          A few ? about Cyclone3K kit ; This kit i purchased from the very 1st Cyclone Kit batch Luna got , for the two(2) season i rided with it 1 word Awsmazing .
          About 2800Km beside a few chain drops and those chainline kwerks that was fixed with a Lunatick upgrade and of course more power that i can legally use except when no one is looking ;-) very satisfied with it .it delivers , Cyclone3K IS THE KIT to swap a bike/e-bike into a E-Motorbike Voila!
          Health issue got me out of the saddle until now , i did read a lot and pondered even more purchased a new chassis to finally create what i want as my very last bike or i should say an E-Cruiser so ....yes my question ;

          -Controller-
          #1 ->I need a new more powerful controller that will randomly for short periods use all the 4KW { possibly 5Kw } this cyclone can put out ,Kelly, Sabvoton .... any other i did not find ? ,Luna Bac800 was looking good until i found it is locked to 1 single motor so it is a NOGO , to me buying a part that can not be swapped to another project is a very bad investment ; basically i need what can you Tech dud's suggest and why ? ** 21s battery pack btw
          -BMS-PWR Pack
          #2-> I have bought brand new 360 cell ( i know that is more that i really need ,but i have planned on some aux mini pwr packs ) "MOLICELL INR-21700-P42A" rated at 4200MAh/cell ( a few capacity test cycle showed more =D ) from a very reliable US Retailer . over the Km's i rided my bike CA showed me using an average 17-20Wh/Km with those in mind i know i need a PWR Pack that holds close to 5KWh to achieve more than 250 Km per charge cycle , i have two choices do : 21s17p or for less voltage sag do 2X 21s16p ( Parallel plug em in see ) This adds 1 BMS to cost , BUT!! it opens up possibility's in the advent that a pack has a malfunction i can unplug it and get home . I get more Temp sensors each BMS has 4 , Physically having two packs can also make it easier to have them removable quickly . BTW the BMS i'm looking at is the "ANT BMS 8-24s / 150-300A BT App " suggested by Vorteck on youtube
          So a single or double Pwr Pack ? Maybe i did not see other BMS that you know about that would work ,open to suggestion np .

          And this is it ,thank you for your suggestions and any idea's i may not have thought of , Cheers

          NB: Any one who's having question about Cyclone3K can ask me , if i can help out i will gladly share what i know and learned with that great bike upgrade =)
          Last edited by ColdRider; 03-08-2021, 01:39 AM.

          Comment


            Originally posted by ColdRider View Post
            A few ? about Cyclone3K kit ; This kit i purchased from the very 1st Cyclone Kit batch Luna got , for the two(2) season i rided with it 1 word Awsmazing .
            About 2800Km beside a few chain drops and those chainline kwerks that was fixed with a Lunatick upgrade and of course more power that i can legally use except when no one is looking ;-) very satisfied with it .it delivers , Cyclone3K IS THE KIT to swap a bike/e-bike into a E-Motorbike Voila!
            Health issue got me out of the saddle until now , i did read a lot and pondered even more purchased a new chassis to finally create what i want as my very last bike or i should say an E-Cruiser so ....yes my question ;

            -Controller-
            #1 ->I need a new more powerful controller that will randomly for short periods use all the 4KW { possibly 5Kw } this cyclone can put out ,Kelly, Sabvoton .... any other i did not find ? ,Luna Bac800 was looking good until i found it is locked to 1 single motor so it is a NOGO , to me buying a part that can not be swapped to another project is a very bad investment ; basically i need what can you Tech dud's suggest and why ? ** 21s battery pack btw
            -BMS-PWR Pack
            #2-> I have bought brand new 360 cell ( i know that is more that i really need ,but i have planned on some aux mini pwr packs ) "MOLICELL INR-21700-P42A" rated at 4200MAh/cell ( a few capacity test cycle showed more =D ) from a very reliable US Retailer . over the Km's i rided my bike CA showed me using an average 17-20Wh/Km with those in mind i know i need a PWR Pack that holds close to 5KWh to achieve more than 250 Km per charge cycle , i have two choices do : 21s17p or for less voltage sag do 2X 21s16p ( Parallel plug em in see ) This adds 1 BMS to cost , BUT!! it opens up possibility's in the advent that a pack has a malfunction i can unplug it and get home . I get more Temp sensors each BMS has 4 , Physically having two packs can also make it easier to have them removable quickly . BTW the BMS i'm looking at is the "ANT BMS 8-24s / 150-300A BT App " suggested by Vorteck on youtube
            So a single or double Pwr Pack ? Maybe i did not see other BMS that you know about that would work ,open to suggestion np .

            And this is it ,thank you for your suggestions and any idea's i may not have thought of , Cheers

            NB: Any one who's having question about Cyclone3K can ask me , if i can help out i will gladly share what i know and learned with that great bike upgrade =)
            I'm considering something like this myself, though converted to run from 1 pound camping propane bottles. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000760460993.html

            Comment


              Originally posted by Nulla
              My cyclone 3000 controller has a short, where can i get the mosfett for this controller. Thx
              from past experience producing and reworking switch mode power supplies, if you have to replace a single mosfet, you need to replace them all. the one failed part will stress all the others to the point of failing early.

              Comment

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