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Ask an ebike technical question get an answer within 30 minutes or so.
Ok I found that the shirt extension I made up was loose creating a partial open circuit! I made a new one, all set now!! Thankyou for leading me in the right direction
I bought your bafang ultra and am replacing the internal controller with the phaserunnerv3. There's the three phase wires, I understand. a The 6 pin plug(red, white, blue,yellow,green,black) and the black round plug has me stumped. Could you please tell what every wire is including the plug wires. I can't get my bike together and no-one seems to know. I stuck...
I bought your bafang ultra and am replacing the internal controller with the phaserunnerv3. There's the three phase wires, I understand. a The 6 pin plug(red, white, blue,yellow,green,black) and the black round plug has me stumped. Could you please tell what every wire is including the plug wires. I can't get my bike together and no-one seems to know. I stuck...
Hi all,
I have a BBS02 500w controller with 36V input. Does anyone have a hex file so I can upgrade the controller? I need the input to be 58.8V instead of 36V.
Hello,
I have an unusual problem which just cropped up recently.
I'm running a BBSHD w/ Luna DPC-18 display and 52 V Luna Wolfpack battery.
When I come back from a ride or even a very short period of operation, the system will not restart once it's turned off.
It's completly dead, no display or motor operation. The battery output seems fine when tested.
After several hours it will restart again.
Everything seems to work OK as long as I don't turn it off.
I ordered a new display and wire harness, but now I'm worried that the problem may be in the motor or the controller.
Has anyone else experienced ths same issue. Any recommendations for a repair.
I'm hoping to get this resolved as I leaving on a crosscountry trip which was planned to include a lot of ebike riding.
Thanks,
Bob W.
Never heard of something like that before, does the controller feel hot? Are you using any extensions, anything like that? Have you tried firmly plugging into the backup discharge connector on the battery?
I've tried reseating all the wire harness and power connectors, I have no extensions.
My V1 battery has only one output conector, but the XT90 connector seems to make good contact.
Motor and controller temp seems to not matter because if I just turn it on, lift the rear wheel and turn the throttle one time, then turn it off, and it will not restart.
Then I need to wait several hours until it will restart again.
Very weird!
I would probably try to bypass the display, and discharge test the battery on other equipment. Could also bypass the battery trying to see if you can duplicate the issue when powering the motor from the charger. This is all described here https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...he-bbshd-bbs02
I've tried both powering fom the battery charger and jumpering pins 1&2 (P+, PL) on the display harness connector
Powering from the charger gives the same results as powering from the battery. (It will turn on if it's been sitting, but will not immediatly restart after powering down)
Jumpering P+ to PL did not allow it to restart. (battery connected, and turning pedals to generate PAS signal) Admittedly, I did not retry this after letting it sit for a period of time.
Well you have eliminated the battery as the source of the problem, that's a great start.
When you did the display bypass did you try throttle? Not sure PAS would work like that, I usually use throttle when bypassing. I suppose either way doesn't matter since you already have another display on the way.
Pas will only work on the level it is set to when you power the display on. If your pas starts at level 1 when you power the display up then that's the level you get with bypassing the display. If its set to 0 when powered on then pas will not work with the bypassed display. And if throttle is based on pas level like it is with the 02B then if pas is set to 0 on startup then throttle won't work either with a bypassed display.
I retested with the P+ PL jumper wire with throttle after letting the system rest and it seems to be exhibiting the same intermittant behavior.
Everything is pointing to either the controller, or the motor.
I'll order a new controller as a next step.
If nothing else it never hurts to have spare parts on hand. It can be such a relief to know that if something goes wrong you can just swap stuff out until it is working to determine the issue.
I agree about spare parts. Also, I'm preparing to build a second BBSHD bike for my wife. and plan to have as much common hardware as possible
That is if I can ever find a bike in this crazy market.
Distributors and builders of high power electric bikes and trail bikes plus parts
The only issue I could think of is that a thief could just get the battery off using a screwdriver. Would it be possible to replace the bolts in the hose clamps (circled in red in the first picture) with security bolts (something like in the second picture)?
I have found that pipe clamps from Axia Alloy Clamps work the best in my applications. Pick the pipe diameter for the strap and the connector for a 6mm or 8mm bolt to mount the magnetic mount from Luna for security and a clean look.
I used clamps similar to what SilverFox posted for mounting my controller to the fork tubes. Look for Auxbeam Light Bar Mounting Bracket on Amazon. They are really stout, and would allow for using security screws. I think light bar mounts are awesome if you can find the right size.
Had a bit of a freak mishap with my Luna Cycle Apollo e-bike. My magnetic Rosenberger cap currently isn't staying on, and while I was putting a U-lock on the bike, one of the keys on my key ring somehow managed to swing up and contact one of the exposed charging terminals on the battery pack. It was a split-second event, but it caused the battery to discharge violently (I still don't understand exactly what path to ground the electrical discharge actually took) and partially melted the terminal that the key contacted. The battery still seems to be working normally--the e-bike still turns on, and doesn't seem to function any differently than it did before--but the luna charger will no longer interface with the charging port/terminals properly, so the battery can no loner be charged. A quick look at your battery connector parts page didn't seem to show an obvious replacement. So, is the Rosenberger charging port/terminals on the Apollo battery pack something that can be replaced and fixed?
Please email support@lunacycle.com attn:Seb so he can have a closer look. Likely you are going to want to take voltage readings with a multimeter on both charge and discharge, then try to jumpstart on the discharge port to see if that wakes up the bms. If so you are good, if not, well there are allen bolts holding that port on there, not sure how potted it is behind that though. If the bms is damaged, that would not be accessible.
Got a nagging issue that I can't seem to cure. Have had the bike over a year and it's been this way from the beginning. I have an X1 and it frequently gives an error 21 but only after you ride for awhile then stop. Once you begin riding, error 21 pops up and the motor cuts off. Turn it off and on, error goes away...until the next time you stop. All my connections are secure and the speed sensor is properly aligned.
From what I hear, on X1 sending a new sensor has never fixed error 21 issues, unlike bbsxx. So this may require contacting support to arrange sending in the motor for a controller swap (unless you have the BESST tool and understand steps needed to sync motor with the replacement controller). We would probably still start with sending the sensor on the offchance that does the trick, since it would be less hassle for you than pulling the motor if it works, but generally speaking that's the gameplan. https://lunacycle.com/support-request/
Just looking for info on the luna crank arms. Never had self extracting crank arms before and can’t find any info on them. I remember ppl saying the caps can fall off if not tightened down well before a ride; are the caps what push against the bolt when taking off? It looks pretty straightforward, but I don’t want to install and then find out I should have done something differently. Thanks
That's correct the caps are what push against the inner bolt and they're just screwed on if you do not want to lose them
I would suggest something like loctite red this way they will never come off.
This is the one instance where loctite red might be useful actually =)
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