Getting ready to take my new Sur-Ron X off-roading for the first time (been using your on-road wheel kit for a few months) and when I went to turn the blue dial on the rear shock, it was stuck. I managed to turn it (a little elbow grease and a good grip) and it now turns fully open-close but no longer has the "click" detents. Also, doesn't seem to adjust the feel much. Any suggestions?
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Noticed the past few days that after turning the Sur-Ron X on, the throttle is unresponsive. Turning the key on/off again seems to bring it back. I checked the wiring and connections and they all seem fine. Also can confirm kickstand is up and brakes not engaged when this happens. Any suggestions?Comment
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Are the BBSHD v1 Ludicrous controllers always silver?
Were any of them powder coated black like the motor?
What is the most sure-fire way to be 100% sure if a controller is Ludicrous?
Thanks.Last edited by Josh M.; 07-08-2021, 04:45 PM.Comment
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V1 ludi has been through more iterations than I can count. Some were powder coated, some hydro dipped, some had stickers, some had a custom machined case with special metal fins on it. Many have our higher quality black potting instead of the gray potting used on stock controllers, but even this is not guaranteed.
Most sure fire way to tell if you have ludi is to hook a watt meter up to discharge, and measure the peak power output. If you can get the wattage above 1500 peak (like from lugging it uphill in a high gear) then you have ludicrous.
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At ˜250 miles my BBSHD is creaking on pedaling, began on drive side, now both. Mounts tight, cranks snugged. ? have any torque specs to avoid stripping?
Also , the middle of the 9 speeds on my Acera RD skip under load from drive.
Adjusted cable, New chain, checked hanger alignment, Bike a new Cannondale Quick. rear hub and cassette look OK
What do you recommend as next thing to look into on these probs?Comment
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Usually creaking would denote an issue with not having the motor tightened enough, and sometimes for whatever reason it is not possible to tighten enough to prevent creaking in which case you might try one of our alternate brackets like bsb-1 or bsbf-1 depending on the frame.
If you are getting skipping check this page https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...bshd-and-bbs02 -
Is your skipping like its trying to shift or a big chachunk like the chain just suddenly overrode all the teeth on that specific sprocket?
Some chains are directional and have an up and down, check to see if yours is that way and if it is do you have it correct?
How did you check the alignment? By eye or do you have access to a tool set like the park one that is several tools that start with the dropout alignment and then move to the hangar alignment compared to the wheel which you first check on a truing stand and with a dish gauge?
It would be fine to start your own thread on this issue if you want. Maybe the general section? -
Bike frame flexing around the bottom bracket? perhaps a narrower chain. 9/10 speeds got kind of touchy in center of cassette.
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@pax Thanks for the link on chainline eval and options. I'll check more variables in more planes.
I was afraid of overtightening before trying loctite or lube flooding. Creaks can be a challenge, for sure.
73Eldo Thanks. it feels like it is trying to shift and can't. Chain replacement with Shimano 9spd made no difference but will check for directionality
, I have an alignment gauge and hanger is within 1mm in all quadrants measured on valve stem. Will check dropouts.
Idler wheels no wobble, hub grossly true without play or runout. no visible wear on cogs. Was looking for a good check list and will start a thread if persists. Posted here since it just happens under motor load on the 3 center cogs, shifts fine r, before I bought derailleur and cogs or other pats to try.
Thanks againLast edited by Onemorejoltwarden; 07-09-2021, 08:40 PM.Comment
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paxtana
Hmm.
When examining the chainwheel (Bafang Stock steel 46), to get a notion of how much to torque, I found one of the bolts was missing.
Odd that they are 10mm M5's when the depth of the hole is ~18mm and only 3 mm of thread are engaged in maingear. Threads on the bolts are rounded in the chainwheel portion, which has shallow threading of the chainwheel holes from the bolts. One empty chainwheel hole is mis aligned between the chain wheel and maingear drive, enough to fear cross threading on reinsertion, as the main gear threads do not look healthy.
!!! P.S. Was able to align fixed it. original bolts replaced
Split washers on the Chainwheel bolts are tight to the point of distorting the threads mildly (seen on) on bolt removal and round the bolt threads when removed from the bolt.
Quality of the bolts is uncertain. They have an S in the bolt head but no other ID. Having seen water bottle M5 bolts break when used elsewhere, so I am replacing the crankwheel bolts with M5 12MM 1.25 bolts with red Loctite, but wonder if the main gear is replace able if they strip or cross thread?
In summary, I am concerned that the chainwheel bolts may be a source of the creaking or are at least vulnerable, and was wondering if the main gear is replaceable if the threads are damaged. PPS: THAT WAS IT! bolts caused creak!
Now to work on the skipping cassetteLast edited by Onemorejoltwarden; 07-11-2021, 01:07 PM. -
Creaks come from seat tubes seats sometimes. Under load the bottom bracket "tube" changes its alignment with the other tubs around it. A sort of oscillating in response to your
peddle movement. There is more load one one side of the bracket, a sort of twisting.
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Shitty forumLast edited by John Keller; 07-13-2021, 11:32 PM.Comment
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You could go with a bigger sprocket this will optimize more for torque over top speed. There's also upgrades for better forks, better fenders, maybe raised handlebars could be a good idea as well depending on your height. https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...ts-tips-tricks
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Hello,
It's time to lubricate my BBSHD - I mean gears, clutch, directional bearings, or a polyurethane wheel with an axle. What kind of grease after; ecacie - I know that the best grease with the addition of lithium, but do you have any proven and recommended ...
greetings
CaesarComment
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Red bearing grease. Suggest you do not over do it. Gasket replacement if you damage the ones there. Water and dirt in not good.Comment
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Mobile 28 has been the most recommended. It won't eat the plastic gearing.Originally posted by Cezar View PostComment
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Thank you for the hint and I have another question:
Can a silicone seal be used in the absence of a new rubber or paper gasket - as in car oil sumps?Comment
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Unfortunately, I can't find Mobile 28 anywhere in a reasonable package, only some multi-kilogram hobbocks, but I found the Mobile SHC 100 in a 380 g cartridge and bought one ...
thx..Comment
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The trick I used to find the grease was I looked at a photo of the Mobil 28 and found its MIL spec number. I then used that number in my search and found several options from different brands that meet that spec. The other observation I saw with it is that its primary use is apparently aircraft related and for that it has a best if used by date so you can find it cheap if its past its date.
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What is the torque value for the M4 hex-head screw that clamps the handlebars to the steerer tube on a Sur-ron?Comment
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Per the Sur-ron Service Manual, the top-cap in the headset should be tightened to 8-10 N.m (page 19, diagram figure 19). My understanding is that model 2021 Sur-Ron's from Luna have an upgraded headset that is 20X stronger than the standard headset (https://lunacycle.com/sur-ron-tapered-bearing/). The video instructions for tightening the top-cap are vague. Is there a torque value I can use to tighten the top-cap to?Comment
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I'm having some problems with my LUNA BBSHD.
I recently upgraded to a Ludricrous V1 Controller.
Since doing that I have been having intermittant shutdowns.
Usually after 8 to 10 miles or so (seems heat related).
I've been trying to trouble shoot that to isolate if it's the WolfPack V1 battery, motor controller or the motor itself (I've ruled out the display or the harness),
As part of the troubleshooting, I reinstalled my original Bafang BBSHD controller.
Now, I'm having problems with the throttle with the original controller.
The motor goes from zero to full RPM as soon as I start to turn the throttle.
PAS control seems fine however.
I've tested two different throttles and the problem occurs with either.
I measurd the throttle control signals and they seem normal (Throttle Power 4.99V, Min Output 0.88V, Max Output 4.25V).
Does anyone know what could be causing this throttle problem?
I'd like to solve this so I can go back to trouble shooting the original problem.
Thanks, WozzyLast edited by Wozzy; 07-20-2021, 10:47 AM.Comment
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Throttle issue went away after swapping the Ludi controller back in. I then hooked the original Bafang controller back up and reflashed the parameters to it. I beleive that these were the same parameters that were loaded before upgrading to the Ludi. Anyway, that corrected the problem, so somehow the EEPROM parameters got corrupted while changing out the controller. Now back to troubleshooting the original shutdown problem. I'll write up a detailed problem description for that tomorrow, and maybe someone can help me figure out the best way to determine the cause of the shutoff problem.
Thanks again, --WozzyLast edited by Wozzy; 07-21-2021, 12:56 PM. -
So today I was able to isolate the heat related shutoff problem to my V1 Wolfpack (GA) battery pack.
After 12.5 miles stress testing it at mostly full throttle on the Ludi controller, the bike died.
The no load voltage was at about 46V.
I was very close to home, and was able to determine that the battery had no output, nor would it accept a charge.
The battery was only warm to the touch but not hot.
The motor on the other hand was quite hot.
Anyway, after about 2 hours it cooled down and recovered.
Does the BMS have a thermal cutoff?
I'm waiting for the DireWolf (LG MJ1) to come back in stock... in the meantime I'll have to ride in granny mode.
P.S. it stinks having an intermittant problem, but bombing around the park while stress testing the system was sure alot of fun. -
46 unloaded with ludicrous is probably enough to sag it to around 40, which is close to low voltage cutoff. I would not run the battery that low, or lower the max current in the controller so it doesn't sag as much. The direwolf would both decrease sag and increase capacity so not a bad solution either if you can get one. As far as I know the bms does not have a thermal cutoff
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I want to replace the spider that came with my Apollo. I have 3 basic questions. First, is this a ISIS Direct Mount and are they compatible with the Bosch Spider direct mount spiders? Second, how do I remove the current chainring/spider? I know the large nut is reverse threaded but it freely rotates in both directions. Do I wedge something between the chainring and the frame? Should I replace the chain and have my wife sit on the bike while I rotate it clockwise? :-) It is on very tight!
Thanks,
TimComment
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