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[Swat5238]

Have a surron here that runs fine except won’t go into sport mode, took switch apart and all looks clean dry and good contact, the green wire is cut and not touching and when plugged in the light is a continual slow blink. Do you have any advise of where to start?

[paxtana]

I would check if the green wire was already cut if you get what you need by joining it, whether it needs to be cut or joined can depend on the production run. If no joy you might try replacing the switch or the controller

[Swat5238]

Any other ideas instead of throwing parts at it?

[paxtana]

Well I suppose you could just take the parts off of one of your other bikes and swap them around. Wouldn't cost you anything and looking at your order history it appears that you have multiple bikes to do that with. If you do so, and it is for example the controller, the issue will follow that controller when you swap it to another bike.

[Swat5238]

Great idea thanks and I’ll let you know, also what upgrades are available for the stock bike for more power?

[paxtana]

If you simply want to optimize for more torque try a larger sprocket. If you want more power that would mean a complete replacement of controller and battery for aftermarket, which is outside the scope of what I can advise on

[Overkill]

Hello! I built this bike a while back:

https://electricbike.com/forum/forum/main-forum/diy-discussion/73854-soma-riff-belt-drive-build

with a sturmey archer 3 speed and 50/20 gates belt drive cogs. I've decided that I want a larger spread of gears (higher top speed mainly but also some lower gears would be nice for starting on hills, etc). I am considering upgrading to a rohloff hub. I used Sheldon Brown's gear calculator and to get the spread that I want it looks like I would be using 70/20 or 70/19 sprockets.

I remember back from when I was doing my research that its better for the motor to have the smallest front chainring / front sprocket possible so that the motor spins as fast as possible for a given land speed. The 50 is the smallest that can go on there and I think its about the same size as a 46 tooth chainring. Do you think that putting a 70 instead of a 50 in the front will be a problem? It looks like I will be getting a lot of lower gears too so I can even start at a 2 gain ratio instead of the current 4. I am using a BBS02 at 25 amps. Upgrading to a BBSHD is within the realm of possibility although this upgrade will be expensive enough as is so I'd prefer not to.

For reference, here are the gain ratios:

Current SA 50/20 (top speed about 23mph, sometimes have to start out of the saddle up hills):
GR 4.0 / 5.3 / 7.1

Rohloff 70/20
GR 2.0 2.2 2.5 2.9 3.3 3.7 4.2 4.8 5.5 6.2 7.1 8.0 9.1 10.4

Rohloff 70/19
GR 2.1 2.3 2.7 3.0 3.4 3.9 4.5 5.1 5.8 6.5 7.4 8.4 9.6 10.9

I'm hoping to get the top speed up to 28-30mph while getting an easier gear for starting up hills.

Thanks in advance for your time!

Gerry

[paxtana]

Sounds like you should be fine

[Koolrays]

Wanted to eliminate eco sport mode switch so bike is always in sport mode. Can i just connect the 2 wires that go to the switch?

[paxtana]

I don't have a switch in front of me at the moment to look at the circuit, but if there are only two wires going to it then seems reasonable that sport mode is either going to be open circuit or closed.

[Bones]

BBSHD Issue: Throttle and PAS are unresponsive. Backing up the bike a few feet (back-spinning the motor) brings it back to life: both throttle and PAS. As long as you keep the motor spinning, throttle and PAS remain responsive. If you let the motor come to a stop, you lose Throttle/PAS, and have to back up a few feet to get going again. The only thing hooked up to the controller is an Eggrider V2. This is the oldest of my BBSHDs. I wrote up the Giant Stance build on this forum.

[Bones]

Been gone for several weeks and had to put this off. Working on this today, I was able to test the Hall sensors. They are all switching on and off, but the voltage to the Halls is 2.7V. Does that sound right? The Grin doc has the voltage between 4 and 5 Volts. I've also sent an email to Luna (Seb), but that was Friday afternoon, and haven't heard back. If you know the Hall voltage, that would be great. Otherwise I'll work the email. Another interesting find: the phase wires had knockoff Anderson connectors, and the plastic housings on 2 of the phases were partially melted and stuck together. Contacts didn't have any arc-burns.

[Bones]

After testing the Halls and replacing the melted knockoff Powerpole connecters with genuine, I put everything back together and.... The problem vanished! Must have been the melted Powerpoles. The green was in good shape. Both the blue and yellow were badly distorted. To be fair, the knockoff Powerpoles lasted many years and thousands of miles.

[paxtana]

Ah, yeah that'll be the phase wires then. You must have version A bbshd, motors built after 2017 use spade connectors there instead, makes it harder for road vibration to cause them to separate. Glad to hear you got it figured out!

[Realdeal562]

I need help with my bafang 1000 watt mid Drive motor I was trying to update firmware and software on the motor and I not sure if it completed but when I use the diagnostic tool I accidentally put my amperage 231 not 30 and it has a quotation mark on the display but now that I was messing with the software that now it doesn't even turn on so I got a whole new display and it still doesn't turn on in anybody help me what do I need to do or where do I need to do to get the right software or firmware Ford truck to work please help help help

[Realdeal562]

Sorry I meant to put 31 not 231 amperage

[Realdeal562]

Can some. One help

[paxtana]

The luna config utility does not accept setting the current above 30 and I don't think we have ever advised anyone to mess with the actual firmware for BBSHD if that is what you did. You may have bricked it and if so might need to replace the controller

[calfee20]

Can some. One help

There is a whole section on BBSXX programming. Perhaps you will get a better response there. https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...hd-programming

[EtienneLM]

Hi Guys !

I've been running a BBS02 since 2018 with more than 7000km in Montreal, Canada all year round, so through winter (i.e. snow and salt !) and hot summer. The kit has been pretty reliable but my chain and cassette are wearing out so fast and I'm having a lot of "slipping" of the chain on the smallest cogs at the back that are 14, 16 or 18 teeth ! The peak power is 1350W so not as much as an HD (Peak@1600W) or a Bafang M600 (Peak@2000W).

I searched a few times for specific heavy duty chains and cassettes but could not find anaything interesting.

So I wonder if something exists? And I wonder if lunacycle are using specific chains and cassettes on their high output mid drive power units?

Thanks for any elements of answer !

Ride safe !

[Cezar]

Perhaps the chain tension is too weak. Try to change the derailleur or the spring only if possible.

[73Eldo]

How many miles/km's are you getting out of a chain and cassette? Salt is really hard on em, most people say if you can get one winter out of you are doing good. I know many people that put new on in the spring and just hope they make it to next spring and those are often not even on E bikes.

[Cezar]

I use the Connex Wippermann 9se 9 / (6.6 - 6.8 mm) e-bike chain. I guess it's the best one I've had so far - and I've used KMC and Shimano and neither has been as durable.

[paxtana]

Consider a prime 9 groupset from box components. That stuff lasts forever.

BTW your display appears to still have the protective shipping film on it.

[EtienneLM]

How many miles/km's are you getting out of a chain and cassette? Salt is really hard on em, most people say if you can get one winter out of you are doing good. I know many people that put new on in the spring and just hope they make it to next spring and those are often not even on E bikes.

I put probably 1000km on a set of chain and cassette, it's probably too much and that's why I'm experiencing issues. A friend of mine went for an internal geared hub and it solved the slipping issue but it's an expansive alternative.

[Cezar]

I did 7000 km on the internal Alfine8 derailleur, without any unpleasant adventures, the hub gear is fabulous .. absolutely flawless. Alfine 11 is a more interesting solution, but the price is also interesting.