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    Thank you for the hint and I have another question:

    Can a silicone seal be used in the absence of a new rubber or paper gasket - as in car oil sumps?

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      If you mean like gasket compound, yes this is common. Might also be able to use one of those gasket kits that you cut to shape, though I imagine that would be more work.

    Unfortunately, I can't find Mobile 28 anywhere in a reasonable package, only some multi-kilogram hobbocks, but I found the Mobile SHC 100 in a 380 g cartridge and bought one ...
    thx..

    Comment


    • 73Eldo
      73Eldo commented
      Editing a comment
      The trick I used to find the grease was I looked at a photo of the Mobil 28 and found its MIL spec number. I then used that number in my search and found several options from different brands that meet that spec. The other observation I saw with it is that its primary use is apparently aircraft related and for that it has a best if used by date so you can find it cheap if its past its date.

    What is the torque value for the M4 hex-head screw that clamps the handlebars to the steerer tube on a Sur-ron?

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    • Father Brian
      Father Brian commented
      Editing a comment
      I just made up my own torque value. I chose 3.8 Nm.

    Per the Sur-ron Service Manual, the top-cap in the headset should be tightened to 8-10 N.m (page 19, diagram figure 19). My understanding is that model 2021 Sur-Ron's from Luna have an upgraded headset that is 20X stronger than the standard headset (https://lunacycle.com/sur-ron-tapered-bearing/). The video instructions for tightening the top-cap are vague. Is there a torque value I can use to tighten the top-cap to?

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      I don't think there is a specific torque amount we recommend for that.

    • Father Brian
      Father Brian commented
      Editing a comment
      I guess the way to tell if it is too tight is difficulty balancing because the excess friction causes slow steering movement, which in turn makes it hard to make those micro-changes in steering to keep the bike upright. How about too loose? I've never felt any head play, even when silly loose.

    I'm having some problems with my LUNA BBSHD.
    I recently upgraded to a Ludricrous V1 Controller.
    Since doing that I have been having intermittant shutdowns.
    Usually after 8 to 10 miles or so (seems heat related).

    I've been trying to trouble shoot that to isolate if it's the WolfPack V1 battery, motor controller or the motor itself (I've ruled out the display or the harness),
    As part of the troubleshooting, I reinstalled my original Bafang BBSHD controller.

    Now, I'm having problems with the throttle with the original controller.
    The motor goes from zero to full RPM as soon as I start to turn the throttle.
    PAS control seems fine however.

    I've tested two different throttles and the problem occurs with either.
    I measurd the throttle control signals and they seem normal (Throttle Power 4.99V, Min Output 0.88V, Max Output 4.25V).
    Does anyone know what could be causing this throttle problem?
    I'd like to solve this so I can go back to trouble shooting the original problem.

    Thanks, Wozzy
    Last edited by Wozzy; 2 weeks ago.

    Comment


    • Wozzy
      Wozzy commented
      Editing a comment
      Throttle issue went away after swapping the Ludi controller back in. I then hooked the original Bafang controller back up and reflashed the parameters to it. I beleive that these were the same parameters that were loaded before upgrading to the Ludi. Anyway, that corrected the problem, so somehow the EEPROM parameters got corrupted while changing out the controller. Now back to troubleshooting the original shutdown problem. I'll write up a detailed problem description for that tomorrow, and maybe someone can help me figure out the best way to determine the cause of the shutoff problem.
      Thanks again, --Wozzy
      Last edited by Wozzy; 1 week ago.

    • Wozzy
      Wozzy commented
      Editing a comment
      So today I was able to isolate the heat related shutoff problem to my V1 Wolfpack (GA) battery pack.
      After 12.5 miles stress testing it at mostly full throttle on the Ludi controller, the bike died.
      The no load voltage was at about 46V.
      I was very close to home, and was able to determine that the battery had no output, nor would it accept a charge.
      The battery was only warm to the touch but not hot.
      The motor on the other hand was quite hot.
      Anyway, after about 2 hours it cooled down and recovered.

      Does the BMS have a thermal cutoff?
      I'm waiting for the DireWolf (LG MJ1) to come back in stock... in the meantime I'll have to ride in granny mode.

      P.S. it stinks having an intermittant problem, but bombing around the park while stress testing the system was sure alot of fun.

    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      46 unloaded with ludicrous is probably enough to sag it to around 40, which is close to low voltage cutoff. I would not run the battery that low, or lower the max current in the controller so it doesn't sag as much. The direwolf would both decrease sag and increase capacity so not a bad solution either if you can get one. As far as I know the bms does not have a thermal cutoff

    I want to replace the spider that came with my Apollo. I have 3 basic questions. First, is this a ISIS Direct Mount and are they compatible with the Bosch Spider direct mount spiders? Second, how do I remove the current chainring/spider? I know the large nut is reverse threaded but it freely rotates in both directions. Do I wedge something between the chainring and the frame? Should I replace the chain and have my wife sit on the bike while I rotate it clockwise? :-) It is on very tight!
    Thanks,
    Tim

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      The spindle is isis, but as far as I know you would have to use the spider that came with the motor. We don't usually recommend removing it unless you have good reason but in any case if you want to remove the lockring put a chain whip on the sprocket to hold in position

    Have a surron here that runs fine except won’t go into sport mode, took switch apart and all looks clean dry and good contact, the green wire is cut and not touching and when plugged in the light is a continual slow blink. Do you have any advise of where to start?

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      I would check if the green wire was already cut if you get what you need by joining it, whether it needs to be cut or joined can depend on the production run. If no joy you might try replacing the switch or the controller

    Any other ideas instead of throwing parts at it?

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      Well I suppose you could just take the parts off of one of your other bikes and swap them around. Wouldn't cost you anything and looking at your order history it appears that you have multiple bikes to do that with. If you do so, and it is for example the controller, the issue will follow that controller when you swap it to another bike.

    Great idea thanks and I’ll let you know, also what upgrades are available for the stock bike for more power?

    Comment


      Hello! I built this bike a while back:
      https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...lt-drive-build

      with a sturmey archer 3 speed and 50/20 gates belt drive cogs. I've decided that I want a larger spread of gears (higher top speed mainly but also some lower gears would be nice for starting on hills, etc). I am considering upgrading to a rohloff hub. I used Sheldon Brown's gear calculator and to get the spread that I want it looks like I would be using 70/20 or 70/19 sprockets.

      I remember back from when I was doing my research that its better for the motor to have the smallest front chainring / front sprocket possible so that the motor spins as fast as possible for a given land speed. The 50 is the smallest that can go on there and I think its about the same size as a 46 tooth chainring. Do you think that putting a 70 instead of a 50 in the front will be a problem? It looks like I will be getting a lot of lower gears too so I can even start at a 2 gain ratio instead of the current 4. I am using a BBS02 at 25 amps. Upgrading to a BBSHD is within the realm of possibility although this upgrade will be expensive enough as is so I'd prefer not to.

      For reference, here are the gain ratios:

      Current SA 50/20 (top speed about 23mph, sometimes have to start out of the saddle up hills):
      GR 4.0 / 5.3 / 7.1

      Rohloff 70/20
      GR 2.0 2.2 2.5 2.9 3.3 3.7 4.2 4.8 5.5 6.2 7.1 8.0 9.1 10.4

      Rohloff 70/19
      GR 2.1 2.3 2.7 3.0 3.4 3.9 4.5 5.1 5.8 6.5 7.4 8.4 9.6 10.9

      I'm hoping to get the top speed up to 28-30mph while getting an easier gear for starting up hills.

      Thanks in advance for your time!

      Gerry
      Intro, Belt Driven Build

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