Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Ask an ebike technical question get an answer within 30 minutes or so.

Collapse
This is a sticky topic.
X
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    I have an X1. Recently replaced the motor[controller was defective] speed sensor and display. I upgraded to the 860C. It seems very slow to update current speed and the mileage was almost double what I actually rode. Anything I should check?

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      Check settings, maybe the tire size is incorrectly set

    Hello,

    My BBS02 kit from a few years back periodically shuts off mid ride, despite the Wolfpack battery having good voltage. In order to get it going again, I have to physically unplug the battery a few times to "reset" it. Is this an issue with the display? The controller? I have the old display, so I wouldn't mind replacing it if that would fix the issue. Thanks!

    Comment


    • cbamos
      cbamos commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks paxtana. I do occasionally get condensation / fogging inside the casing. The shutoff occurs at different voltage levels in the battery, but this most recent one was fully charged (to 80%), but on a really rainy day. In general, my display seems to inaccurately read the battery, in that it always reads full at start, and then goes down as you ride.

    • cbamos
      cbamos commented
      Editing a comment
      It's the Bafang C961 Display

    • Mike_V
      Mike_V commented
      Editing a comment
      You may have a wire with a location or bend or junction or small diameter or broken copper strands causing intermittent high resistance recently exacerbated by rain.

    What is purpose or function of the extra male four positions plug tucked in the rear frame ( blank/vacate ; R/B voltage to G. 3-4 volts; G, ground; W/R voltage to G, 3-4 volts)?

    My Sur Ron X was delivered summer of 2021

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      I think it's for future development

    I have a stock Sur Ron X and I randomly get no throttle response every 5-10 min.

    All known throttle killing sensors have been removed:

    1. Removed brake sensors x2 (long time ago)
    2. Removed kickstand sensor (long time ago)
    3. Removed tilt sensor (30 days ago)

    Also I have unplugged and re-plugged all connectors to ensure proper fit and inspected for moisture (nothing found).

    I ride normally and all the sudden no throttle. In order to get the bike going again I have to turn off the key, turn off the breaker switch, lean the bike ~ 45 degree to the left, than turn on the breaker and the ignition and than it works again. Than 5 to 10 min later happens again.

    It acts so similar to a bad tilt sensor but that has already been removed 30 days ago when this issue originally started (that's why I removed it to begin with).

    Any help would be greatly appreciated this has been driving me insane.

    I also already read the post regarding no throttle and my bike does not have that 3rd wire with a diode since it's the US version and the tail light is constantly on without any connection to the brakes.

    Comment


    • CristianRO
      CristianRO commented
      Editing a comment
      Thank you Paxtana. I have sent email to support.

    • CristianRO
      CristianRO commented
      Editing a comment
      Just to close the loop on this in case others have similar issue.

      I reached out to support as Paxtana recommened and ended up doing a few emails back and forth with Seb.

      Seb is an absolute Rock Star, so as we were going through troubleshooting, I ended up trying the b16 wire fix (bypass) and that worked.

      Amazing customer service support on a Sur Ron X that i bough 2.5 years ago!

      Thank you Paxtana and Seb! What an amazing community!

    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks Cristian, glad to hear it worked out :)

    Does anyone know what the largest crank gear you can fit on a Luna Apollo is (preferably without getting too funky with adapters and chain-lines)? Stock is a 44T, and by eye it already doesn't seem like there's a tone of extra clearance between it and the rear suspension swing arms. Anyway, I'm changing things up at the rear wheel, and am trying to do my best to preserve my high-end gear ratio. To do that ideally, I'll probably need to go a bit bigger on the crank, and I'd prefer not to have to go through a process of trial and error getting there. Knowing upfront what the largest crank the Apollo will accept will save me a fair bit of time and trouble. Thanks.

    Comment


      Just got my new Sur Ron LBX, came with DNM Volcano forks. The tightening torques in the online instructions are contradictory, at one point they show the tightening torque for the DNM front axle as 7-8Nm, yet the tightening torque table shows the front axle requiring 20-30Nm; that's a huge difference, so which value is correct? The fork manual has no information on tightening torques.

      Comment


      • JohnKol
        JohnKol commented
        Editing a comment
        Thanks, blue loctite is a given, but 7-8 Nm for a 8mm bolt seems extremely low; how did your tech arrive at that value? For comparison, front axles on dirt bikes that are only twice as heavy as the LBX require about 60 Nm, and pinch bolts about 20 Nm.

        Since that table is outdated, is there a reason for keeping it there?

      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        I can't speak to his motivations as I am not him but if you would like to ask him email support@lunacycle.com attn:seb

      • JohnKol
        JohnKol commented
        Editing a comment
        I found the manual for the Manitou Dorado fork, and the torque values for it are equally low; it is therefore safe to assume that all MTB forks need very low torques, so your tech is correct in his spec for the DNM.

      Hi, I'm working on a Bafang BBS02B with water damage. It's working now but I want to replace the gasket on the motorhub with the windings.
      I cut gaskets from milk cartons all my life, they are perfect but I need a digital file to scale to print en then stick on the carton to cut it out.
      So does anyone have a file of the motorhub outline. I can work with a 3d files or 2d files no problem, as long as it's to scale. I can also resize it to scale if needed I just don't want to draw the whole thing. neither do I want to order a new one.

      Comment


      • sjaaksjaak
        sjaaksjaak commented
        Editing a comment
        Yes I have searched there and didn’t found this particular one. Just printable gear covers and indeed some gaskets but for the bbshd
        Last edited by sjaaksjaak; 10-24-2021, 02:53 AM.

      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        We often just use gasket compound if we do not have a gasket available. Works fine

      • sjaaksjaak
        sjaaksjaak commented
        Editing a comment
        Thank you. I was considering gasket material as well. Now I solved it by tapping along the carton on the part en cutting it out. worked flawless.

      hello.

      I’m new to the forum and have run into an issue with my middrive, hopefully someone here will be kind enough to spare me some of their time to try and help me sort this out. I have been trawling the net for answers and solutions and either no one has had this issue or I haven’t come across the answer yet, but I have tried.

      I bought a BBS02 750w near the beginning of the pandemic and did the conversion with no major issues.

      The bike has a DPC18 display with 9 levels of PAS, and Anderson power pole connectors, the battery is an LG cell 48v 17.5ah with a factory issue 44T chainring and in total it has got about 1300 miles on the clock and has been running perfectly fine throughout, ive opened it a couple of times in that period to check for damage and to regrease. all settings at factory default.

      I only really use the bike to commute to work along roads which are mostly flat and straight with only two main hill climbs but nothing too wild. Normally I would cruise along and the motor would be "pulling" me along and easily maintaining its level of assistance, and changing the PAS level would result in a noticeable boost or dip in speed respectively. I typically kept it in PAS 5 and change gears to provide speed/torque when needed. up hills would be no problem at all.

      recently the motor seems to have lost all its power, it has no "oomph", no guts any more.

      On flats the assistance provided seems to have dropped quiet noticeably and I’m having to peddle quite hard to keep going, and the overall top speed has dropped by about 3-4 mph and it feels like the speed restriction has been set really low, but in its as high as it will allow.

      On hills you can forget about it, it feels like I’m doing most of the work, if I relied purely on throttle, I would probably blow something in the motor.

      (This is the hill up to my work which I would normally fly up)

      shifting between PAS levels provides no noticeable boost as it did before, and today I shifted PAS levels and nothing even happened. It feels like the PAS is restricted several levels down regardless of which level its actually on,and the assistance provioded is nowhere near what it was before, essentially the "pull you to your destination" feature has been replaced with "peddle this dead pig of a bike"

      there is also a gear slippage situation going on, and i do need to adjust the rear derailleur, but it feels like the slippage is more than an indexing issue and it feels like its coming from the front chainring / motor????


      THINGS I DID DIFFERENTLY

      I updated the clock time and altered the AL sensitivity settings. Thats it

      THINGS I'VE DONE TO TRY SORT THE ISSUE OUT


      I've pulled her apart and regreased.

      one of the anderson connectors was loose , so i reattached and soldered in place and ran a continuity test which was fine.

      ive tried different batteries (same result)

      ive tried different batteries on my wifes bike (identical bike and setup) - her bike is like mine used to be.

      ive tinkered with the display settings (same result)

      ultimately the bikes runs, but at a level that feels like a major downgrade in speed and power.

      any advise would be greatly appreciated.



      Comment


      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        Pull the controller and check whether the phase wires are partially unplugged, might be a high resistance connection. Also bear in mind we are going into winter and you are going to get a lot more voltage sag the colder it gets, so you might insulate the battery. Keep an eye on the voltage and see how much it is dipping as well. Also if your wife has same setup you can compare wattage usage on the same ride, this would give you a good indication of whether there is something wrong with the motor. If you got it in same gear and your bike is using more power and/or going slower then maybe something wrong with it internally

      Does DNM provide alternate springs for the Volcano forks? With the preload adjuster all the way out and the air pressure at the low limit, I only got 5.5 inches of travel after a day of Black Diamond trails and MX jumps; I estimate that I need about 30% softer springs.

      If DNM does not offer extra springs, is there an aftermarket vendor that does?

      Comment


      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        Yeah I would probably go DVO, DNM is a good entry level fork but if you are doing jumps and black diamond you might want something higher end anyway. We can do the pricing when we have it sure. Want us to notify you when we got it?

      • JohnKol
        JohnKol commented
        Editing a comment
        I would appreciate that, thank you.

        The frustrating thing about the Volcano is that almost always cheap forks get the hydraulics wrong, which takes a bit of money to correct. But the hydraulics of the Volcano are quite good actually, so for it to get the difficult things right and fail the easy stuff like spring rates is hard to swallow.

        Stiction is also pretty bad, but I suppose this could go away with use.

      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        Understandable.

        Okay we will get back to you.

      Want to build Surly Wednesday fat bike with a Bafang mid drive ... suggesting for the build... 100mm or 120 mm

      Comment


      I see that the Ultra has connectors for a front and rear light. Do these connectors provide voltage to power a front and rear headlight or are they simply switches to allow turning the lights on/off through the control display while the lights themselves require an external power source? If they do provide power voltage, do you know how much voltage?
      I'd like to use the Fisher House light that you sell, but I need a minimum of 28 volts to power it but 52 would be better.
      Thanks!
      Tim

      Comment


      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        They provide power, the display has a button to control it. Not sure the voltage, probably 5 or 12vdc. If you have a fisher light that works with regular ebike voltages, i.e. not the surron version that only uses 12vdc, then you can just wire it up in line with discharge, just splice into it and you're done. TBH having the light turned on by the display is overrated, you would still have to mess with the light itself anyway to set brightness level

      Originally posted by Tim View Post
      I see that the Ultra has connectors for a front and rear light. Do these connectors provide voltage to power a front and rear headlight or are they simply switches to allow turning the lights on/off through the control display while the lights themselves require an external power source? If they do provide power voltage, do you know how much voltage?
      I'd like to use the Fisher House light that you sell, but I need a minimum of 28 volts to power it but 52 would be better.
      Thanks!
      Tim
      Peanut power, I think - roughly the same as a front dynamo hub (6 volts, 3 watts), per this spec sheet under Function:

      Click image for larger version

Name:	2018-05-07-2.png
Views:	182
Size:	112.3 KB
ID:	144396


      BBSHD / BBS02 IGH Builds: Nexus / Alfine 8: 1 2 3 4 5 6, Rohloff: 1

      Comment


        Trying to find out what year and any other info on this e-bike....it was given to me and need part #s. Or is this home made with a kit or what?

        Comment


        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          Looks custom, probably built with off the shelf components from hundreds of suppliers. The fork is a luna lander, that is not a luna bike. The hub looks fairly generic but beefy, the cable wrap is nice. Don't know what else to tell you besides that troubleshooting is probably pretty straightforward for any local ebike shop that can do diagnostics.

        • BK Xray
          BK Xray commented
          Editing a comment
          That's an EM3EV bag for the battery. It might be one of their hub motors.

        Hi All,
        Just wondering about charging batteries after an hr ride in say -10deg F. Should I let the battery warm up before charging? Can I leave it outside all day and then ride it an hr home? Or should I bring it in to keep warm at work?
        Thanks all

        Comment


          Hi All,
          Found out the information here under special topics, Batteries! Thank you all!
          Yes have to bring Battery in and let warm up before charging, have to be easy on it when using in cold...etc

          Comment


          • paxtana
            paxtana commented
            Editing a comment
            It may also be a good idea if using the bike in weather that cold to insulate the battery, whether that be wrapping with a fleece or even various kinds of foam like from a yoga mat. There's a few covers you can find online as well. You will get a lot less voltage sag if doing this and won't have to wait as long to warm up for charging.
        Working...
        X