Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Ask an ebike technical question get an answer within 30 minutes or so.

Collapse
This is a sticky topic.
X
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Hi,
    I received my Luna Fixed Stealth today and assembled it with no issues. I rode it a few miles with no problems and was extremely happy. Then I took it on a second short ride and something went wrong. When pedaling from a stop I heard an audible click in the pedal/motor area when I put a good amount of force on the pedals to go. After I heard that click, I noticed that ONLY when I was pedaling under load, did the motor seem to be making a whirring noise. It is making this noise in all levels of pedal assist, even when the bike is off and in all gears. The noise increases in pitch and speed as I speed up on the bike. I have reached out with a trouble ticket for this, but did some digging and found this to be another possible option. Any and all help is greatly appreciated, as this is my first electric bike and I have a lot to learn. Thanks!

    This should direct you to a video of the noise:
    https://youtube.com/shorts/WI9J1lmcR9U?feature=share
    Last edited by andrew9258; 06-17-2022, 06:16 AM.

    Comment


      Someone I know has told me it might be the bottom bracket coming slightly loose, however, I'm not sure how to tighten it on the Fixed Stealth ebike. Any tips on that or solutions otherwise would be greatly appreciated!

      Comment


      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        Sorry to hear that, probably looking at a cross shipped motor swap since it is new, just comes out with a few bolts. My colleague Seb will reply to you on the trouble ticket with more info. In the meantime the knowledge base shows how to remove it, if you would like to have a look https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...157#post152157

      • andrew9258
        andrew9258 commented
        Editing a comment
        That’s a bummer, but glad to hear that it’s semi easily fixable. Thanks for the the response! Look forward to getting back on the road with it soon.

      A quick google you can find this issue quite a bit, i want to know a solution at its ruining the bike for me.
      I’ve just purchased this BBS HD and installed it and wrote it for 200 miles, the issue I’m having is the motor will provide too much resistance or something is to my peddling so anything under three speed on nine speed mode it’s like paddling against the current or as if the brakes were on. I know it’s nothing to do with the wait because for some reason when the motor has been off for a night or a long time and you initially try to pedal without turning the motor on there is no or little resistance it’s only after activating the motor and paddling for a moment that something engages inside which starts the resistance again. Of course the motor works and rolls you up the hill good but the problem is it’s like there is the brakes on all the time which I think can cause extra lots of battery to lose as well as it’s near impossible to go anywhere when the motor is off or in low PAS. I am hoping somebody knows any solution to this I’ve read maybe I have tightened the motor too much as a lot of people recommended it can loosen but also maybe the nylon gear has already went out or they’re just needs to be way more grease inside any help would be appreciated I have not looked inside yet but want but need to order a gasket i think.
      any fix?

      Comment


      • 73Eldo
        73Eldo commented
        Editing a comment
        I and at least one other replied in your dedicated thread so no need to repeat all that here. On the gasket front you should not need a new gasket for a unit this new. The new ish ones I have opened the gasket has been fine to reuse. Now if you get several 1000's of miles and a few years on them it may not come out as good. I do often find that the controller gasket which is rubber wasn't correctly installed at the factory so that is worth checking if yous may ever get wet and sometimes they way those are mashed in there you can't get them straight again.

      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        I am not convinced you are not simply describing a quirk of the programming that might be solved with some other program profile. Most of the time you pedal you will feel some resistance, you are turning several gears internally. That's why it is important to tune it to your riding style, so the motor operation matches how you pedal.

      Originally posted by yellowboy06 View Post
      A quick google you can find this issue quite a bit, i want to know a solution at its ruining the bike for me.
      I’ve just purchased this BBS HD and installed it and wrote it for 200 miles, the issue I’m having is the motor will provide too much resistance or something is to my peddling so anything under three speed on nine speed mode it’s like paddling against the current or as if the brakes were on. I know it’s nothing to do with the wait because for some reason when the motor has been off for a night or a long time and you initially try to pedal without turning the motor on there is no or little resistance it’s only after activating the motor and paddling for a moment that something engages inside which starts the resistance again. Of course the motor works and rolls you up the hill good but the problem is it’s like there is the brakes on all the time which I think can cause extra lots of battery to lose as well as it’s near impossible to go anywhere when the motor is off or in low PAS. I am hoping somebody knows any solution to this I’ve read maybe I have tightened the motor too much as a lot of people recommended it can loosen but also maybe the nylon gear has already went out or they’re just needs to be way more grease inside any help would be appreciated I have not looked inside yet but want but need to order a gasket i think.
      any fix?
      Im talking even when not pedaling and just rollin down the hill you can notice it slowing you down. Its as if something inside is lcoked up and tightened once i activate the motor and ride for a while. It seems much better if i have not ridden the bike all day and not started the motor and try to ride normally etc

      Comment


      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        If you are rolling down a hill not pedaling the chain should not even be moving. The drivetrain would not be involved.

        If you are saying the bike is forcing the chain to move when rolling downhill and not pedaling or using the motor whatsoever, then the freehub in your rear wheel may be broken.

      • yellowboy06
        yellowboy06 commented
        Editing a comment
        well my brother just put his motor on his giant anthem and it had the resistance when we first rid it for a while but we didnt have the correct spacer for the first day, we got a good spacer in there now and retightened the bolts and his bike seems to have no resistance while mine can have quit bad resitance similar to how his was the first day where you basically cant even coast you need to use throttle to even keep the bike moving. and yes it makes no sense because the chain is not moving? you would think coasting would just cause only the rear wheel to spin etc but it seems like for whatever reason the motor can slow the bike down a lot when the motor was engaged and then disengaged etc somehow? just visually looking at it, it seems not plausible but maybe the motor tightens the chain somehow and causes you to coast slower like brakes are on?

      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        Probably just something you overlooked. Maybe you got the brakes misaligned or something like that. If so it should be obvious, you would not even need to ride the bike, just spin the tires up on a stand or with the bike flipped upside down. You can even do this with the chain completely removed from the motor, that way you can be absolutely certain that the motor is having no impact on rolling resistance. Worst case just take it to a bike shop to have them inspect it

      Hi I have a bespoke bike with bafang bbs01b motor and lcd screen with throttle control which is not working and so have tried new lcd but did not help. 36v from battery but lcd won’t power up so wondered what my next move should be cheers mark

      Comment


      The Fixed Stealth came with a Wuxi dpower 42v battery charger. Which charger on the Luna website (or elsewhere) should I get to replace it?

      Comment


      I just got a Luna Fixed Stealth eBike and I really really want to put a drop bar on it. What do I need to do as far as gear shifter and brake levers are concerned in order to do this? I know the stock ones aren't compatible with a drop bar really. Do I need to replace everything? Is there a shifter and brake levers that go on a drop bar that are compatible with the gear hub, hydraulic brake lines and disc? Help me Obi Wan Kenobi.

      Comment


      • 73Eldo
        73Eldo commented
        Editing a comment
        Look up "path less pedaled" on Youtube. He has reviewed several 'alt bars' some that take flat bar controls. Watching his channel should give you some suggestions of other channels that do similar stuff. I don't recall any actual drop bars but there were some that gave you some different positions that did use flat controls. Surly Corner Bar was one I considered but its never been in stock anytime I have looked for it. It didn't have a drop position but did have a hood position which I thought may be a nice change from a flat MTB style bar for a long ride.

      Hi, my Luna fixed makes a grinding noise when actively pedaling that comes from the motor. I naively thought this was normal, but a friend just got it and I don't hear it his. This only happens when the assist is on, and happens in all three gears. What is this, and is it fixable?

      video/sound below. It is a bit louder than it sounds on the video.

      https://imgur.com/a/obNC9Ak

      Comment


      • aphorismAnt
        aphorismAnt commented
        Editing a comment
        Thanks for the quick reply! Two questions:

        1) This might be a dumb question but would I be sending the whole bike or pull out the motor?
        2) Also, I can try and record it better to gauge it... if so, and if you can diagnose it, could these things be fixable by myself?

        Thanks in advance

      • aphorismAnt
        aphorismAnt commented
        Editing a comment
        By the way, in the video the grinding I'm speaking of is (backwards with time left) at 0:34, 0:29, 0:23 shortly, and 0:10

      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        Just the motor. It comes out as shown in the knowledge base https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...d-stealth-bike
        I don't think you need to re-record it, but do include the video you already got when we ask you for details in the emailed reply.

      I purchased a Luna Appollo in the fall of 2021. I have approx 700 miles on the bike. Last night it did not fully charge. It charged to about 1 to 2 volts below the max charge. Is this normal? If not what can I do to get a full charge?

      Comment


      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        Used batteries do tend to have more sag compared to the voltage fresh off the charger. Could be the charger too though, like if the cc/cv process ended too early etc. I would try a different charger first, and make sure not to store the battery full charged/fully dead or at extremes of hot or cold. This will not undo any existing damage but will maximize the life you get from the pack so it does not degrade further (if indeed that is the issue)

      Thanks for the info. I have always kept the battery between 30 and 60 percent when it is not being used. It maybe my charger that has the problem. I will borrow a charger from a friend and give it a try, Thanks again.

      Comment


        My 52V 300W Luna Advanced Charger (with the rotating percentage and amperage switch), only seems to charge to either 90% or 100%. When set on 80% it charges up to about 56.8V, which would be right around 90%.

        I'm pretty sure it used to work with 80%, I just don't know when it didn't anymore.

        Warranty is over but is there anything I can do to fix this myself?
        I've opened up the charger before so now I know how to, and will need to open it again because I still haven't bought a replacement fan (one of the fins broke off a while ago).

        Comment


        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          I do not believe if the controller is behaving in that way that it would be fixable, sorry.

        • Pizzabroodje
          Pizzabroodje commented
          Editing a comment
          So it's sure that it's not just the switch that's defective but something within the controller?
          Would it be worth trying to use some contact cleaner and if that doesn't work put in another switch?

        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          The switch is simple so I doubt that would be the cause but I could be wrong, wouldn't be the first time.

        Hello. I just got a Luna Fixed bike and I'm trying to get locks for the wheels to prevent theft. I'm looking for the size of the axel nut for both the front and rear hub. I'm getting options like "M9", "M10" and "3/8" but I'm not sure how to measure it.

        Comment


        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          M10 with 1.0 pitch

        Hello I have a very unique build I'm doing at my shop and I have a technical question about the asi bac855. I have a vintage brand ebike with a 4000w cry's the crown motor on it and a sidecar with the same motor both have separate asi bac855 controllers on them with common throttle for when they are connected. Now here's the build and where things get tricky. As I am sure someone will ask I have been trying to get ahold of asi and get some sort of access to backdoor to program these controllers. Initially the bike and sidecar we're 52v but customer wanted me to do something very unique. He asked if we could run the stock 52v battery on the bike and put a high voltage high amperage switch on the bike and put two separate 60v batteries which could be used when sidecar was connected. By this he means he wants to be able to switch voltages on the bikes controller essentially on the fly. Now from my experience with similar foc controllers I've always needed either a display or an appropriate computer programming cable to adjust voltages. This bike doesn't come with any display and has very limited options for displays that will even work. For s#+$ and giggles I tried plugging a s900 display into the controller and it wouldn't even power on with the correct cable. So that having been said my question or really questions are as follows.
        IS there any display besides eggrider that will work with these controllers? And if so which ones ?
        Is this controller able to detect voltage and change voltage based upon current voltage being applied and switch automatically like some of the higher end foc controllers out there?
        If there is something I'm overlooking or any advice anyone could give me towards this I would be very grateful as I don't want to have to pull the asi controllers and redo the whole system for a different set of controllers if at all possible. The voltage switch I have and wiring that is used along with the wiring layout is all done correctly so it can switch between voltages physically I'm just stuck with a software/programming unknown and I don't want to plug a 60v battery into the bike and risk any issues with controller. I need to set the sidecar voltage to 60v permanently and make the bike controller either work with display or identify if controller has capability to detect different voltages and adapt to them. Thank you for your time I hope I can make this work out and save the cost of sabvoton or other type controllers since the back controllers are really nice and any other controller will make things difficult due to the size.

        Comment


        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          This thread is more for specific questions relating to Luna products, I would make a separate thread.
          What I can tell you is programming an ASI is no simple task even with the bacdoor software

        Hey, just got a Z1 and I want to clamp it in a work stand, is the frame strong enough? the area right behind the forward shock mount is the balance point, but can the tube take the weight of the bike?

        Or should I do a two point mount, one at the neck and another by the seat? Or a cradle under the motor on a flat cart could also work. Gotta come up with something, the back won't tolerate bennding over working on it

        I love this thing after just one ride! Please let me know what you think.

        Comment


        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          Park tool makes the best stands and they are priced accordingly. You could use a significantly cheaper Bikehand stand instead, both would hold the weight. Regardless of the model you go with I would recommend to remove the battery prior to getting it up on the stand, that will make it a lot easier.

        The section of the frame between the shock mount and the seat post sounds thin when you tap on it, unless somebody from Luna tells me it's ok to hold it up by that, I'm going to make a cradle for the motor and pick it up by that, which may also be a poor choice as you are asking the motor bolts to take the weight of the whole bike.

        Comment

        Working...
        X