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    Hi!

    I bought some Mobilgrease 28 for a BBS02 that's on it's way here. I'll only use it on the secondary reduction gears for now.

    If it's already packed with the black grease, would it be sensible to replace this with the Mobilgrease?

    And if there's not a lot of grease yet, would it be okay to just add the Mobilgrease on top, or would I need to clean off the old grease first?

    Comment


    • Pizzabroodje
      Pizzabroodje commented
      Editing a comment
      I just found out that the Mobilith SHC 100 grease is less likely to cause issues between greases in the BBSHD as it's based on Lithium instead of clay. It's a bit cheaper too.

      I'll return the Mobilgrease 28, and get the SHC 100 instead.
      I'll clean the big gear as it shouldn't be too hard to remove; but I don't think I'll be able to properly clean the smaller pinion gear without taking the motor completely apart, so I'll probably just wipe that off a bit with some cloth, but not clean it thoroughly.

    You never mix greases if you can help it. Each has secret ingredients and there's no way to know if mixtures have adverse chemistry reactions that lowers the greases efectiveness. Especially with greases that come from china. Do a good cleanout and replace if you are worried. NOT a mix. My china water pump I got last year already has squalling bearings I need to fix. Clearly inferior chinese bearing grease.

    Comment


      +1 - never mix greases, clean old stuff out thoroughly.. actually even if using the same grease, old grease should be cleaned out thoroughly regardless since it accumulates metal particles

      Comment


      • Pizzabroodje
        Pizzabroodje commented
        Editing a comment
        Originally posted by AZguy View Post
        +1 - never mix greases, clean old stuff out thoroughly.. actually even if using the same grease, old grease should be cleaned out thoroughly regardless since it accumulates metal particles
        Would it be fine to only clean off the old grease on the big gear? Or should I also fully clean the smaller pinion gear?
        I've seen a video where he puts gasoline on the smaller pinion gear to clean it up, with the controller and everything still assembled: https://youtu.be/I8_nxTMXt44?t=115
        That doesn't seem like a good idea to me though, is it?
        Also the old grease is still new (completely new motor). So I don't expect there to be a lot of metal particles.

        I broke the rotor of my BBSHD due to it having the old type rotor. I'll fully clean that one and replace all greases with the SHC 100.

      Need help reinstalling this gear cover. Suggestions for getting cover to seat properly so I can get the screws back on??


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      Comment


      What if you cut the wrong green wire? What does that do to the bike?

      Comment


      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        If you mean on a Sur-Ron it likely won't work right, possibly throttle or comm issue could arise. Easy to splice back together though if need be

      I broke the rotor on my BBSHD due to it having the old type rotor.

      Is it okay to only replace the rotor and replace the bearing on the new rotor so it fits in the old stator case? Like this video demonstrates:
      This video shows how to replace the bearing on NEW style rotors to be compatible with old-style mid drives


      How should I go about removing the old rotor? I've seen video's where people clamp the gear of the rotor down, but that snapped off so this is not possible.
      I can get a pair of slip joint pliers in the holes of the rotor, but can't clamp the housing down well enough. Maybe let someone hold the housing while I pull the rotor out with the pliers? Or is this not advisable? What are things to be wary off when taking the rotor out?

      Comment


      • stts
        stts commented
        Editing a comment
        Yikes.Getting your finger smashed by the power of those magnets is a thing to be wary of. Id say get long nose vice grips locked into the holes in the rotor and then clamping the vice grips into a vise. Then with heavy gloves on, pull the motor off of the rotor in a continuous motion.

      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        I would just replace the whole core, it is easier and safer

      • Pizzabroodje
        Pizzabroodje commented
        Editing a comment
        Ended up just buying a whole new core. I'll just keep the old one as a spare in case the new stator dies I guess.

      Is it possible to remove the main gear from it's housing on the BBSHD or is it pressed in? I wanted to clean it to regrease but can't properly clean it without removing. I also don't want to just submerge it in something as that'll remove the grease from the ball bearings too.

      Comment


      • stts
        stts commented
        Editing a comment
        Oh no. I would NOT do that at all. No solvents. It can chemically change the grease residue you dont get out. And if the change is acid or alkoly, then you just created a harsh environment inside a sealed unit. Just wipe out the most of it and the dirt that goes with it. Only use compressed air if you want to remove more from under things you dont disassemble.

      • ncmired
        ncmired commented
        Editing a comment
        On the rubber gasket/grommets, I cleaned off the excess white sealant as best I could and stuffed 'em back in, tacking them in place with some regular bathroom caulk/RTV/

      • stts
        stts commented
        Editing a comment
        I would use the non smelly type of RTV. The smelly kind is acedic acid that can create a corrosive environment when sealed up. They are called neutral cure RTVs and this link gives details and product ideas. https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/for....asp?th=115497

      Originally posted by Pizzabroodje View Post
      Is it possible to remove the main gear from it's housing on the BBSHD or is it pressed in? I wanted to clean it to regrease but can't properly clean it without removing. I also don't want to just submerge it in something as that'll remove the grease from the ball bearings too.
      The Lekkie 40 tooth Bling Ring manual describes how to pop the main drive gear out of the housing, using 3 M4 screws - here's the removal excerpt:
      Click image for larger version  Name:	Capture1.png Views:	0 Size:	104.5 KB ID:	157471

      Sometimes the bearing comes out too, which isn't the end of the world if you have a simple press of some sort, like a bench vice. Samey-same to reinstall the gear:
      Click image for larger version  Name:	Capture2.png Views:	0 Size:	92.9 KB ID:	157472

      My BBS02/BBSHD motors had so very little grease from the factory that I didn't in the least feel the need to do anything more than wipe off what little there was and "grease over" with the synthetic. One of my three BBSHD motors came with a little dab of grease in one of the housing cavities, and the gears and ratchet clutch were bone dry - less total grease in volume than the amount of toothpaste I use every day!

      Broken record harping: before installing a brand new Bafang mid-drive motor, pull the main gear cover and, at the very least, verify that there's at least some effective (on the gear teeth) grease from the factory - better yet, regrease it with synthetic. It's very easy to do. And, don't go grease packing "every nook and cranny" crazy like in some of the youtube videos - grease not on the gear teeth or the clutch pawls does little, if any, good.
      Last edited by ncmired; 11-11-2022, 11:18 AM.
      BBSHD / BBS02 IGH Builds: Nexus / Alfine 8: 1 2 3 4 5 6, Rohloff: 1

      Comment


        Now that I have grease on my mind:

        Both the battery and the motor on my dad's e-bike failed sequentially (simple kit with MXUS motor and small battery with 35E cells he bought locally).
        Now we bought him a Tongsheng TSDZ2 and have a 1160Wh battery with MJ1 cells on order.

        Do the TSDZ2's come well greased from the factory? Or could it use some extra grease as well? I have plenty of Mobilith SHC 100, should I replace the factory grease with this?

        ​​​​​​​And are there other things to check / adjust to extend the lifetime of the TSDZ2?

        Comment


        • Pizzabroodje
          Pizzabroodje commented
          Editing a comment
          Originally posted by stts;
          You are speeding thru all this like willy nilly and you dont know what you are doing. Benzine was bad news and you jumped all over it. Why ask us anything if your going to jump into a lava pool anyway? Why dont YOU look up the grease on the internet and see what its made for? You will find its an AIRCRAFT bearing grease. No mention of any use for plastic parts. So a wise person would avoid this grease and instead find in the forum a more appropriate grease more suitable to eBike motors. But then again, why are you questioning the grease that the factory already put inside the motors that they have warranty on? If you add your own grease to it, the least you do is void the warranties. You need to slow down and do more of your own research about what you plan to do.
          I carefully used Benzene, only dipping the toothbrush in it, then tapping it to get most of it off. I thought the main concern with it was it getting in to the bearings, which I made sure it didn't. I removed all grease on the teeth and visible side of the gear like that, then used a cloth to wipe every teeth clean, and after that I used some cardboard to remove as much of the grease as possible on the side of the gear that you can't see without removing it.
          Though your point about it changing the compounds of the remaining grease is definitely valid, I don't see this being a big issue as there isn't really much grease left, and what's left didn't really come in contact with the benzine much, if at all.

          There's a lot of people advocating the Mobilgrease 28, and multiple people said the Mobilith SHC 100 is better, including two people who said to have contacted Mobil about the matter, to which they responded that the Mobilith SHC 100 is a good choice:
          "I talked to the Engineers at Mobil and they recommended "Mobil SHC 100"." and "It was recommended by Mobil tech over the Mobil 28."
          You might be confused with the Aviation SHC 100, which is designed for aircrafts. The Mobilith SHC 100 on the other hand, "is an antiwear and extreme pressure grease primarily recommended for higher speed applications such as ELECTRIC MOTORS, where reduced friction, low wear and long service life are required. It is an NLGI 2 Grade / ISO VG 100 grease with a synthetic base fluid. Its operating temperature range is -40º C* to 150º C." (qouted from their own site)
          I'm not trying to start a war here or anything, but before bashing me for not doing my research, maybe check your own.


          Back to the topic of the Tongsheng:

          Are these things really that bad?

          My dad is pretty conservative with his use. He wants to go around 30-35kmh with it, adding a good amount of 'manual' power. Mountains don't exist here, and he doesn't use a throttle. So likely an average use of around 300W. We bought him the 750W version mostly just because. While the 500W version would be sufficient, I wouldn't see why not to get the 750W version, even if he'd end up never using it. He can just use it at a lower power level, and if he doesn't like that we can also tune it down again.
          I do remember reading that it can't really handle the 750W, but yeah, that's not what it'll be used at. Under these conditions I'd think it'll do just fine, like you said.

          I don't expect much from the warranty anyways, as I bought it on AliExpress from pswpower. It only costed €235 though. And replacement parts aren't expensive either. The cheapest BBS02 I could find, which I bought at the same time for someone else, costed €410.
          If there's anything that's not all too hard to do but increases the lifespan of the motor, also causing me not to have to return it for warranty purposes in the first place, then that's definitely worth considering. Reliability is more important for him. The battery will most likely take at least 3-4 weeks to get here (produced on order), so we have the time to.

          @Retrokitrockit What small rubber gear issue? And do you mean this with the breaking pedal shaft?: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=98361

          I'll look into the cooling mods, and I might just open it up to check the grease situation.
          Or do you say, just sell the thing and get something else instead? If so, what would you recommend him to get? He mostly wants something reliable, not all too big (like a direct drive hub motor) and 35kmh speed without using throttle (so 500W should be fine). He's a cyclist, who uses the e-bike to commute to his work and to do groceries at shops that are further away. That's also one of the reasons we chose the TSDZ2: a more realistic and effective cycling experience.

        • stts
          stts commented
          Editing a comment
          Oh, ok. You used Benzine "carefully". I didnt realize that. That makes all the difference. Your all set now...

        • Retrorockit
          Retrorockit commented
          Editing a comment
          The Rubber gear is actually blue plastic fi that makes you feel better. This is what the vendor says about them.

          You can pretty much assume anyone reading that has had a problem with that gear. It looks like he's blaming the customer for the problem.
          Those caveats are not needed with a BBSHD.

        And yet another question:

        I have a Luna 300W 52V charger that doesn't charge to 80% anymore, only 90 or 100. (Made a post about this in this thread a few months ago where Paxtana suggested it's a fault of the controller)

        I found a post on Reddit of someone who made a box that goes in between the battery and charger, that you can set to a voltage that it will stop charging at:
        ​​​https://www.reddit.com/r/ebikes/comm...t=share_button

        Pretty simple idea:
        A XH-M604 chip (already have 3 on order for 3 different builds) in a small housing with one female connector and one male connector. One for the battery, one for the motor.
        If you want to charge to 80%, just plug it in between.

        Any thoughts on this? Should something like this be able to work with the Luna advanced charger? This would avoid me having to repair the charger which would potentially give me even more issues or break it.

        Comment


        • stts
          stts commented
          Editing a comment
          You done bought these. Why ask us now? This isnt ment to go on motors. Only between the battery and charger. It looks like a good idea for battery charging uses. Helps to give extra protection from overcharging and sudden eBike fires. A subject that was all over the national news last night. But its unknown what this unit does beyond 60 volts. The 52 volt battery could go beyond 60 volts during the CC phase of the charging process. So given todays higher battery voltages, this little unit is rather under built and should be used with care. Probably a better idea would be to find a unit that handles much higher voltages so voltage spikes dont damage the unit.
          Last edited by stts; 11-12-2022, 12:19 AM.

        • Pizzabroodje
          Pizzabroodje commented
          Editing a comment
          I'm asking because there might be a concern with using these, which would hold me off from putting them to use. I bought them, but haven't received them yet or put them together. It was just €15 for the three.

          The listings do say that you can use it with batteries up to 80V, so I think that should be fine. (Don't know anything about the CC phase, but I'd assume them taking that into account?)
          In case that the unit does fail though, do you think there would be any concern in it breaking the charger or battery? I don't really mind the units themselves breaking.

        • stts
          stts commented
          Editing a comment
          The concern is that its a cheap chinese circuit being sold to people that dont really know any better. As evidenced by your unfamiliarity with the constant current phase of litheum charging. And Aliexpress lies in their ads as a normal business practice. So I have zero confidence in their 80v claims. I would have to test it to believe it myself. There is arching and sparking that goes on each time these batteries are plugged in. So tons of overvoltage activity going on without you even aware of it. And if the unit fails in a relay closed position, then you have lost the extra security layer that this device is good for. But you dont mind that, per your post. So the worse that can happen is that this unit could short out and blow your stuff up. And you dont mind if the unit alone could fail. So I see no point in even hooking this device up in your case. Lots of trouble with very little satisfaction.

        I got the BBSHD fully assembled again, except for the controller. I found that I don't have any silicon based sealant (thought I did) to seal the hall / phase wires. I only have acrylic based sealant and the shops are closed till tomorrow. Would it be okay to use the acrylic based one or should I just get a silicon based one tomorrow?

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        Last edited by Pizzabroodje; 11-18-2022, 03:20 PM.

        Comment


        • Pizzabroodje
          Pizzabroodje commented
          Editing a comment
          I don't mean both LET and normal tape. I meant: do I need to go completely around with the LET like you would go around with tape? Or only put it on the cut itself.

        • Pizzabroodje
          Pizzabroodje commented
          Editing a comment
          I just put it fully around, and around all three wires because I found they get cuts very easily. Now only have to let it dry, see if the rubber grommets still fit (I doubt it but if not I'll just use the old grommets and cut the hole a bit larger).

        • Pizzabroodje
          Pizzabroodje commented
          Editing a comment
          Ended up putting a tiny bit more LET on there, and let it dry overnight. I just put the stator back in place and applied the silicone on the three phase wires.
          I'll wait for this to dry, then I'll connect the controller's hall connector and seal that with the silicone, wait for that to dry, and put the controller back in.

          I'm only still doubting if I should do anything about the grey rubber cement that covers the controller's components (see the post below this).

        Do I need to do anything about the grey rubber/silicone being broken? I think the seller left it like this after I got it repaired by them. Maybe also LET? Or some silicone sealant? Or wouldn't this cause any issues? Click image for larger version

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        Comment


          Ended up covering the part where the rubber cement was broken up with some silicone. Tried with the LET first but it wouldn't properly stick.

          One mistake I made was not checking if it's an acidic free sealant. I doubt (and mostly hope) that this won't cause any issues though, as it doesn't touch any PCB or metal part besides the housing (maybe a sliver on the top of the capacitor, but I left the piece of rubber cement on there). I'll get some acidic free sealant for the last part I need to seal: the hall wire.
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          Last edited by Pizzabroodje; 11-20-2022, 04:23 PM.

          Comment


          • Pizzabroodje
            Pizzabroodje commented
            Editing a comment
            Thanks! The permatex brand stuff is expensive here, but I found some similar stuff by looking for 'gasket maker', also sensor safe, by a different brand (€5,90 for 85 grams / 3oz): https://www.amazon.nl/gp/aw/d/B0078U...b_b_prod_image

            Just ordered it with a Prime trial, should arrive tomorrow (high chance it will be delayed though).
            I think the Den Braven stuff should be okay as it's non corrosive, but this will be a safer bet.
            Last edited by Pizzabroodje; 11-23-2022, 01:01 PM.

          • AZguy
            AZguy commented
            Editing a comment
            Well I couldn't read that page however (no offense meant) the "cart" being called a winkelwagen made me chuckle =]

            If it's "sensor safe" it's almost certainly not the acidic stuff

          • Pizzabroodje
            Pizzabroodje commented
            Editing a comment
            It got delivered at the neighbours without giving me a notice. Got it today.

            It does specifically mention being Sensor-Safe, though it does have a strong acidic smell, maybe even more so than with the white sealant.
            Apparently even Permatex makes Sensor-Safe RTV with an Acetoxy base though: https://permatex.com.ua/wp-content/u...-81422-TDS.pdf

            Now I just don't know what's what anymore. Should've just went with the Permatex stuff you sent me I guess, but I think it should still be fine as it is Sensor-Safe?
            Nonetheless we'll find out sooner or later (or best-case never because it'll just continue to work), as I didn't want to wait any longer. As extra precaution, I'll let it dry for 24 hours or more with the controller to the side, with a fan pointed at it at low speed.

            Edit:
            That PDF says this:
            "Note: The curing process
            can cause corrosion to some surfaces, for critical applications
            use the Ultra Series silicones."

            So yeah, should've went with the Permatex Ultra I guess... Is it that critical of an application though? (Just around the hall connector)
            Last edited by Pizzabroodje; 11-26-2022, 04:01 PM.

          Luna Stealth battery life. I bike a lot, so far I made about 4,000 miles in last 3 years. Ended up replacing motor because some parts got worn out and it was not feasible to replace them piece by piece. After replacement my battery is not performing anymore, after about easy flat road ride for a mile or so I loose 2 top bars, then after 4-6 miles I am down to yellow. So the question is whether the battery is simply dying, 4000 miles and about 1000 recharging cycles (usually recharging @ half or bit more capacity).

          Comment


          • Pizzabroodje
            Pizzabroodje commented
            Editing a comment
            3 years is a common lifespan for li-ion battery packs.

            Are the 1000 cycles full cycles, or 1000 times from ~50% to 100%?

            And did the battery lay still for a while before getting the replacement motor? This is also not good for batteries, especially when at a high or low charge.

          1000 cycles were 98% above 50%. Battery was still for about 3 weeks.

          Comment


          • paxtana
            paxtana commented
            Editing a comment
            It may be worth bearing in mind that as the weather gets colder, it is going to have significantly more voltage sag. This sag will scale with how old/used the battery is.
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