The drop is significant, my daily is about 12 miles mostly flat, rarely I drop more than 2 bars, now I at the end of 12 miles I'm left with 1 or 2 yellow bars, dont know how the readout is calibrated but looks like 200% plus battery usage.
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the drop in power is significant I would say 50%, so another thought, when I was changing the motor I pulled out a bit the battery pack for convenience of reconnecting, is it possible that I might have unhooked one part of the pack?Comment
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1000 cycles is a fair bit, even if only to 50%
Usually the first thing I notice in older batteries is they start to sag worse and worse, particularly at lower SOC's (voltages)... I see it start on batteries with as little as a couple of hundred cycles and it only gets worse with time... the most cycles I have on any battery (I've got about half a dozen) is around 300 but many of the cycles were discharged down a lot less than 50%... their total capacity reduction is only about 10-15% less than new but the sag makes the useful capacity a lot less, at least for any "spirited" riding... admittedly they'll get me home with a lot less spirit...Last edited by AZguy; 11-23-2022, 12:31 PM.Comment
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Looking into a new E bike for hunting looking for suggestions price range is 1500-2500 also interested in a cart for hauling in and out of the woodsComment
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My personal build is back up and running again! Made 4-5 commutes now without any issues.
I'm building a bike with BBS02 for a friend. The controller has a lead for headlights, and the kit got delivered with some headlights as well.
I think though that I've read somewhere before that using headlights attached to the controller can break the controller. Is this right? Or has it been solved in current revisions?Comment
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I can agree with all the reasons not to use a dynamo. But If I already had one the cost/ benefits would be completely different.
I think the 1160 W/h battery is great. Mine can go long, it can go fast, and it can buck 20mph headwinds. It can almost do all 3 at once.
I have a 1500W BBSHD and I don't need to dial back anything. Why do you?
Forget all of the theoretcial crap and just ride the hell out of it. Then tell us what happens.
I have a huge collection of Niterider rechargeable off road headlights all the way up to 1200 lumen dual LED version. The one I actually use daily? The oldest weakest 350 lumen version. Stupid fast day strobe, and long runtime with a new 3500mA/h 18650 battery(up form 2200mA/h).
I think what you have will work just fine. IMO with that battery you don't need to tweak the motor settings to death.Last edited by Retrorockit; 12-24-2022, 09:45 AM. -
@stss
I still don't get the relay thing, might look into it more later.
I know a dynamo isn't efficient but I'm not worried about that because of the small amount of power it uses. For me the trade-off towards an easy and safe solution for lighting is worth it.
@retrorockkit
If it was my own bike I wouldn't set it all down. I have a BBSHD running at 30A too (just set it too that a few days ago when I found out it was set to 27A).
The bike is for a 60+ y/o guy however, and speed limit for ebikes without requiring registration and a numberplate is 25kmh, so it's already illegal like this. It's also a pretty clumsy and heavy bike: Batavus Deliverybike. Going much faster on this is just plain dangerous.
He doesn't need or even want to go faster than 35kmh. Running it down just makes for a smoother power up, putting less stress on the motor and drivetrain, making it more reliable and more likely to last 10+ years; which is what he wants. -
I'm 69 years old. My bike weighs 72#.. Sorry to hear about the 25kph limit there. 28mph is the limit here. I ride mostly legal speeds. The silence of the BBSHD helps a lot with stealth. But on a 45mph highway I will open it up to get out of that situation. But I can see building an outlaw bike for someone else could be an issue.
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I got an issue with my BBSHD after changing some of the controller settings:
When pedaling and throttling at the same time, and then stopping to pedal, it'll drop to the power of the PAS instead of the power of the throttle for a sec, before going back to the power of the throttle. So in PAS 0 it'll drop to 0W for a sec when stopping to pedal before going back up to 1500W all while using full throttle.
Throttle also doesn't seem to engage before putting more power than the set PAS level while pedaling. So if in PAS 2/9, and using 500W with throttle, and I start to pedal, it'll drop to 250W. If I then increase throttle to a certain amount it'll engage again.
The only setting that I changed that I think could've caused this is the throttle end voltage (I changed that from 35 to 42).
I didn't change too many other settings. If I recall correctly, I changed...:
-...the Current Limit to 30A from 27A.
-...the PAS1 Current Limit from 20% to 10%
-...PAS Start Current to a lower value (I think 5 or 10 %)
-...Slow Start Mode from 3 to 4
-...throttle End Voltage from 35 to 42
-...throttle start current from 10 or 20 to 5% (I think)
Might also not be caused by programming but something else, but it came right after programming it, so I do assume it's this.
Last edited by Pizzabroodje; 01-12-2023, 07:26 AM.Comment
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They confirmed to me that it's the firmware. They said this:
"Yes, this has been how the BBSHD motors works since 2019. If you’re pedaling you need a greater throttle input to override the PAS. If you don’t pedal throttle requires much less input to affect the motor. Originally the BBSHD motors didn’t function like this – but Bafang made changes to the firmware back in 2019 and this is how they behave now."
I did manage to at least remedy the issue of it going back to the PAS power for a sec after stopping to pedal by setting the throttle settings back to Em3ev's standard settings.
There's also a jerkiness when pedaling and keeping the throttle right at the point where throttle takes over from PAS. (Also after changing the settings the first time)
I think I'll just change all settings back to default to see if that'll solve that issue at least. If it does, I'll try just changing the start currents and slow start mode (or might change everything back to default except this first).
I'll attach screenshots of the settings as I had it to the main post.
Would it be worth flashing another firmware? Is the firmware that you use for your BBSHD's available anywhere?
The custom firmware you mentioned is the one by danielnilsson I assume? That indeed looks like a great project! -
That is interesting. It explains the jerky throttle response, but with the zip tie casstte mod it cruises around easily just standing on the cranks not pedaling. Now that I know this I can play around with it some. -
There are firmware version out "in the wild"
Potential issues with changing firmware is that it's impossible to read the code that's in there to return to it if the new firmware gives grief which could potentially happen since not all hardware is the same (this doesn't seem to have bit folks though) and there's a small chance of bricking the controller
There is a way to change the settings so that the throttle works great while pedaling but it will disable PAS entirely
There are also fairly simple hardware modifications that address the problem (feature?)
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As a follow up on this post about the charge limiter circuit:
https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...484#post157484
I guess I should've phrased the question there differently:
If the chip in between the charger and battery fails / shorts out, would the charger and battery fail consequently? Or would the safety features in those prevent that from happening?
And certain types of AliExpress sellers do lie in their ads indeed; however, there are many honest sellers / brands that don't. Especially with stuff like this they won't be eager to lie about it.
Also, I'm not adding it for extra safety, but to limit charging to 80%.
For two of the chargers I need some DC connectors. I found some that are compatible with 24V / 10A; would this also work with 48V / 3A? I'd guess so as it's less wattage at a higher voltage, so less heat is generated?Comment
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Yea, electrically the connector is acceptable. Amps is the biggest factor. And 10 is certainly better than 3. Volts is only important if its a really big jump in voltage. High voltage like 100 and more wants to arc and spark way more readily than 24v. But 48v is not much different. But that doesn't mean the connector is ideal for eBike use. But for just charging, Most any type connector should be good enough. -
I ordered those. Everything arrived today, and I put one together to test. Everything works just fine. I checked with a multimeter too, and the voltage displayed on the board was only 0.2V off.
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For a Luna Eclipse folder I'd like to tune the suspension for my weight. I am focusing on the rear shock currently. The fitted stock spring shows 750lbs and I should be more around 470lbs for my weight (180 lbs). The stock coil shock has a 45mm stroke length. Would a 45mm/1.77" x 400-488lbs progressive spring like the one here from Cane Creek be a good fit? https://canecreek.com/product/coil-s...r-progressive/
Alternatively, would it just be better to source a better shock? It is an odd size (150mm i2i x 45mm stroke) so it seems like options are limited. I would think just getting the correct spring rate for my weight would help a lot as I'm probably not moving that 750lbs spring much, but I'm new to this.
Thanks for any help!Comment
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Its all just trig math. What kind of bumps do you go over? Have you rode off a curb into the street to see if the shock compressed any? You can use a screw driver to smear some grease on the shock shaft and see how far the shock moves it. Just eye balling eclipse bike pics, a round number of 200 pounds at the wheel gives 4400 inch pounds torque at the pivot. So the shock gets 244 pounds just by sitting on your bike. I looked up the shock load equation that's a bit more complicated but yields huge results. 200 pound dropped just 12 inches hits with 4400 pounds of force. That makes sense since my chair on concrete collapsed out from under me and I cracked my hip. So 4 inch impact is a third of that. The fat tires help considerably, but add more complication to the equation. So its pretty clear the shock is sized in the ball park for warranty considerations. It would be wise to do some precise experiments to see what will actually get your shock moving. You may find 450 pounds could be abit too light.
My eyeball measurements were 22 inch wheel center to pivot, and 18 inches shock seat tube to pivot. Torque is weight times distance. Didnt even need trig for this one. But then again, not all 200 pounds is at the rear wheel. So you have a ball park idea what to do. 750 pounds is max compression, so it will start compressing long before that. Especially for those progressive springs. For my bike, I will likely opt for the air shock variety so I can pump it up to just the right force for me.Last edited by stts; 01-16-2023, 01:02 PM. -
Spring rate is not as simple as it looks if there is a ratio of travel between the spring and the axle. Say the ratios 2:1. Lets make the soring 800# / Inch.
The wheel moves 1 inch. The leverage reduces the rate to 400#, but wait the spring also only moved1/2 inch which is also 400# so now it really only takes 200# to move the wheel 1" with an 800# spring. So you need to know the ratio, and then then divide by the square of that times the spring rate is the rate at the wheel. Also on that bike those chubby tires are the first line of defense anyway. I would ride it and see how it actually works before getting all worked up about the numbers. If the ratio is 1.5 to 1 then that 750# spring will be about 333# at the wheel. On a suspension fork it's pretty simple. But on a leverage type suspension it's not.Last edited by Retrorockit; 01-16-2023, 02:01 PM. -
Thats why I used the torque calculation. It's always 4400 inch pounds at the pivot when 200 pounds is just sitting. Then it's easy to calculate the force at the spring with the shorter lever arm I eyeballed at 18 inches. That's why the force went up to 244 pounds on the spring. To get closer, you can figure 35/65% weight split between front and rear tire. That drops shock force to 159 pounds. But it's the impact forces of the bumps that really drives everything up. Still up there at 953 pounds of impact when rolling off a 4 inch curb. And the tire does make a significant difference. That's why he needs to do experiments to see better what his bike is doing. Right now hes not sure what its doing. He "thinks" its not really moving. That's insufficient to say what shock would be better for him.Last edited by stts; 01-16-2023, 05:07 PM.
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My surron light bee 2023 wont go, all the sensors are remvoed such as the break, kickstand, and tipover. It will move a tiny but but then cuts out. Does anyone know what to do?Comment
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xrrqr Sorry to hear that. This page goes over troubleshooting for the surron
The main thing you want to do at this point if use the diagnostics cable to check for error codes, this is described in the link above.
If no joy after following the link please email support@lunacycle.com with your order#, description of steps you have tried and the outcome, and any error codes you pull up.
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Hello I was wondering if LUNA CYCLE could send a sur ron x to quetta hazara town could u guys please tell meComment
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You might ask at Luna Cycles directly. This sounds like shipping question.
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Per the Luna Sur Ron web page, here (https://lunacycle.com/sur-ron-x-bike-black-edition/): "WE SHIP BIKES TO USA ONLY"
I guess that you'd need to contact Sur Ron directly and see if they've established connections in Pakistan: https://www.sur-ron.com/en/link.htmlLast edited by ncmired; 01-24-2023, 07:53 AM.
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Hi, My blue 72V 300W Ebike Advanced charger from Luna stopped working. My son said he heard a pop and saw some smoke, when he plugged it in indoors on a cold day. Is there a common fail point in this charger that we could fix? Perhaps a MOSFET or capacitor? The fuse seems fine. The Luna 72V battery pack is still in great shape after 4 years or so.
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Smoke and a pop. Open it up and close inspection will show a part that is discolored and cracked open. And there may be supporting parts around it that got fried too. You have to be good at this stuff to be able to fix it. Odds are it's cheaper to get a new one. The fuse was probably on the wall voltage side so it was no help in protecting the actual circuit.
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I'm back with yet another problem...
My BBSHD came loose and started making a cracking noise.
I fixed the BBSHD again but the cracking didn't go.
It happens both with motor on or off, and both when pedaling or throttling.
The steps I took to try to fix this:
- I took the BBSHD out and inspected the frame for cracks. I put some aluminium foil around the BBSHD shaft (so between the motor and frame) to make the play less.
- I checked the chain for visible damage, and put on a different derailleur (as that appeared to have it's own issues).
-I checked if all bolts were tight
What else can cause this? I read that the clutch can cause cracking, but would that be similar to this? I guess that the Nylon and pinion gear can't be the cause as it happens with the motor off too?
A video of the noise while using the motor's power:
A video of the noise when pedaling with the motor off:
Last edited by Pizzabroodje; 01-29-2023, 08:45 AM.Comment
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Yea that aint very purdy lookin. The paws should be sharp to grab at the ratchet teeth. Those look pretty rounded off. There must be debrief in there dulling off the teeth. Clean out the grease and regrease with fresh, while you have it open. There should not be anything inside the gear train that can do all that wear. clean and inspect it all closely. Post more pics if you are unsure. No such thing as too many pics or questions. -
I thought the ring around the clutch was supposed to be one whole piece, but I guess that part is as it's supposed to be?
I'll add another pic from the top, doesn't look too rounded off to me, and it does grab onto the teeth.
The grease did look quite dirty so I was already thinking of replacing most of it.
Anyways, the clutch doesn't seem to be the culprit.
The noise still exists without the clutch (and didn't put the cranks on either).
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This is what the clutch is suppose to look like - the pawl on the lower right is just cocked off to the side - would be rotated to the same as the other two before insertingOriginally posted by Pizzabroodje View Post
And this is the outer portion:
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And here's my Paw. They say you can't choose your Paw, but I'm glad I got a sharp Paw like mine so it gets a firm grip on the wratchet without slippin and going bang. :)
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There are 2 places they suggest lighter grease. One is the pawls. heavy grease can get in the way or slow don the movement. They don't need heavy lube because when engaged nothing is moving there. The other is the roller clutch inside the plastic gear. Don't pack them full or the parts can't move, and light grease just so they don't get stuck. The roller clutch actually needs friction to work.Comment
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My backgorund is hot rodding and there is a huge aftermarket there selling brakes,tires, suspension, power and driveline parts.The bigges legal issue there seems to be emission control. Not sure how they do that. But that background helps me understand tires, brakes, and suspension in ways that most casual bicyclists never have to consider. Hot rodders seem to know how their cars work. Bicyclists seem to be mostly clueless. -
Yup, when I go south and take up a new living, it wont be bike related. Its just too penny anti with too many headaches attached. Ill leave it to the jail birds looking to beat recidivism. Boating is where the money is worth the headachs. Seems like people are always spending thousands every time they take their boats out. That can make it worth the hurricanes and sink holes and toothy varmints. -
The jail birds just steal bikes because the cops consider it a misdemeanor, and don't investigate. That's how they beat recidivism.
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