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    Sorry paxtana , I can't figure out how to reply to your comment above. Thank you for responding.

    I did open a trouble ticket and have now gotten a response. I'm considering this issue solved for now. Since I lubed it, I've cycled the battery into and out of the frame numerous times and it is getting easier to get it to lock into place. Maybe with wear, tear, and vibration of riding it will continue to get easier over time? I'll consider the problem solved for now but will follow up if it worsens again.

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      Glad to hear it!

    • flei
      flei commented
      Editing a comment
      Thru email exchange with Luna support I think we figured out that the problem was that the foam tape (added to stop rattling) was not allowing the battery to seat fully without a lot of force being applied. As that foam compressed further with multiple insertions the situation improved. So actually a pretty small problem that fixed itself!

    Hi everyone!

    I have an issue with my stock 48V M600 CAN protocol motor after I crashed and the display cable got severed. The cable severed in such a way the individual cores got shorted on each other. (See photo).

    Click image for larger version  Name:	image.png Views:	1 Size:	1.49 MB ID:	161508

    I have now replaced the cable for a new one and have reconnected everything but the display wont power on! I have check that the motor is getting the correct voltage from the battery which it is. When the motor is given voltage from the battery I can hear a very quiet high frequency buzzing from the display, when I press buttons on the hand control I can hear the frequency of the buzzing change. When I hold the power button (as I would to switch the system on) I can hear the frequency change again, but nothing appears on the display.

    Here are the display and hand control I am using.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	image.png Views:	1 Size:	2.51 MB ID:	161509

    I have not got a spare display to test yet (it is on it's way) and I haven't yet check the controller fuse or flashing LED yet (as per the M600 trouble shooting post), I will try these tonight.

    In the mean time has anyone got any ideas on what may be the fault? I really hope shorting the display cable wires hasn't fried anything on the controller!

    (P.S I have also opened a topic in the general discussion forum HERE)

    Best regards and have a great day!
    Alex​

    Comment


    • AlexWardy
      AlexWardy commented
      Editing a comment
      Hi Paxtana,

      Thanks for your reply. Apologies for the misinterpretation of this thread.

      Would a new controller and BESST, or the Ludicrous controller be something Luna could sell me?

      Thanks
      Alex

    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      Besst has been sold out at luna for a year or two, I do not believe it will be restocked any time soon. Currently ludi controllers are only authorized to be sold to folks that bought a luna bike. Over a long enough timeline that is likely to change, but not soon.

      Best bet is to find a bike shop that can do it for you or reach out to whoever sold you the motor or ebike that you got it from, m600 was not really designed to be user serviceable. If you are unable to find a bafang dealer in your country try this uk specific ebike forum https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/

    • Cezar
      Cezar commented
      Editing a comment
      Instead of the original display, you can connect an Android smartphone to the Bafang - having a programming cable and a usb/smartphone adapter, and the Speeed application.. To which I gave a link somewhere earlier on the forum.

    In my latest build using a BBS02, DPC18 display and a 48V battery, I having an issue with the battery Voltage readout. It reads 100% all the time regardless of the actual charge level. I've set the controller to 48V, with a max of 54.6 and a low (0%) to 41V. I've not seen this in my previous 6 builds. Do you have any ideas for me to try?
    Thanks,
    Tim​

    Comment


      Originally posted by Tim View Post
      In my latest build using a BBS02, DPC18 display and a 48V battery, I having an issue with the battery Voltage readout. It reads 100% all the time regardless of the actual charge level. I've set the controller to 48V, with a max of 54.6 and a low (0%) to 41V. I've not seen this in my previous 6 builds. Do you have any ideas for me to try?
      Thanks,
      Tim​
      Hi Tim - just for clarification, everything's new on this build? And, when you write, "battery Voltage readout", do you mean the display's graph, the text, or both?

      Depending on the display firmware, you may have a setting along the line of "36 volt/48volt/52volt" - if you do, I'd try the 52-volt setting (which won't hurt the display, just change the calculation) and see if the display indicates a lower voltage when the battery is at a discharged voltage level. Additionally, if you haven't already, I'd use a D.C.-capable multimeter and carefully measure the battery voltage, with everything connected and on.

      Independently testing the display's voltage accuracy through a voltage range could be complicated, depending on your resources and electrical experience/comfort level - but it is doable, given a known/calibrated variable D.C. power supply or similar low current and variable voltage source.
      Last edited by ncmired; 05-29-2023, 07:15 AM.

      Comment


      • Tim
        Tim commented
        Editing a comment
        The voltage readout is from the display text.
        Good idea about the display. All of my changes have been to the controller. I will try that next. Thanks!

      Hello Community,
      we found an old Ebike from Sanyo in the basement of my uncle. The only Information i could find, was in this Page under History. Sanyo Enacle? Dies anyone know if its worth anything?
      thank you for your help!
      Attached Files

      Comment


        My guess is that this bike dates from the nineties and has a probably now dead, low-output NICAD battery. If it still rides ok as a non-powered bicycle, especially with the battery removed, and it's cosmetically and mechanically in good shape, my stab-guess it's maybe worth 50-150DM. Perhaps there's a small target audience of Enacle lovers/owners that would pay a little more.

        Have you found the charger for it? If so, you might try putting the bike outdoors and see if it'll take a charge - even a weak one, just to see if the motor system still works.

        Dunno about in Germany, but here in the U.S. I think there's little interest in e-bikes this old, given their lack of both speed and range. Yes, there are some enterprising DIYers with the skills and resources to fit a range-improving replacement battery, but there are plenty of faster and more capable, broken project e-bikes available.
        Last edited by ncmired; 05-29-2023, 07:50 AM.

        Comment


          Thank you very much for the quick reply!!
          yea it still works and has two accus with a charger. We wäre trying it out and the three power Bars were pretty fast at two.

          Comment


            Originally posted by annilo View Post
            Thank you very much for the quick reply!!
            yea it still works and has two accus with a charger. We wäre trying it out and the three power Bars were pretty fast at two.
            Good - so much the better, and raises the value at least a little. But I'd not think this bike has much if any collectable or vintage value.

            Comment


              That helps alot! Thank you again!

              Comment


                Hey! I just got a Luna Cycles Talaria XXX and my bike didn't come with an assembly guide (or QR code to a video/PDF as far as I saw). I ended up assembling it since it felt pretty straightforward, but now after powering on and unlocking the bike is stuck flashing "WAIT", although all the sensors seem to work (brake lights turn on, when I turn the back wheel the speedometer reacts, etc), and it's in the state with the kickstand down or not.

                Is there an assembly video or step I'm missing here?

                Comment


                Unfortunately, the XXX was doing great (already put 90 miles on it!) but when riding around town today I hit a bump low speed, did not feel particularly violent, and suddenly lost power and my bike display went back into "WAIT" and won't leave. I re-plugged all the connectors (brakes, throttle/start, kickstand) and didn't notice any obvious disconnections in the wiring area behind the side panels. I also ran "MATCH" mode in the display and got a "FAILURE" in response. Assuming sensor issues don't prevent Match mode from working, this sounds like maybe a connectivity or component area between the controller and the motor? If anyone has any ideas, I'm all ears.

                I messaged Luna support as well and will report back if I hear something from them.

                Comment


                  Hi. I have a Luna, Z1 with Bafang Ultra motor with the UART system. Are there any options out there for upgrading my controller? I have found some, but they are all for (Canbus) systems! Thank you, and RIDE ON!

                  Comment


                  • paxtana
                    paxtana commented
                    Editing a comment
                    There might be options out there for controllers that pull more current, but any significant increase in current load beyond what it comes with will probably trip the overcurrent shutoff in the BMS.

                  I would think if you can do it with the M600 (Luna, X2 with controller upgrade) you should be able to do it with the M620....

                  Comment


                  • paxtana
                    paxtana commented
                    Editing a comment
                    The reason we can do it with the X2 is because the battery is set up for that before it even leaves our facility.

                    That is done either with custom modding the battery bms, or having the factory use a bms that is capable of higher current right out the box.

                    Since we do not yet have a ludicrous controller for Z1 there has been no need to modify the batteries for a currently nonexistent upgrade.

                  My Luna Li-on, Luna Shark, 48V, 13.5 amp battery fell off my bike, and the charging port popped open. I closed it back up, but when I plug in the charger (not yet plugged into the outlet), it sparked. What can I do? A replacement battery is $500. The current battery is fine, holds a charge for a long time, etc (except for its spark). Can this be fixed? I feel maybe the ground became loose?
                  Attached Files

                  Comment


                  • paxtana
                    paxtana commented
                    Editing a comment
                    If it is physically damaged that battery is now a fire hazard. Due to the extreme amount of liability involved, nobody at Luna can recommend anything other than safe disposal and replacement. Please note that I am stating this as an official representative of Lunacycle, and while other folks on this forum can provide input we at Luna do not recommend messing around when it comes to damaged batteries.

                    Given we have not sold that model for years I would say that on the bright side it probably could benefit from replacement anyway as the cells would be more worn out than original.

                    Here is how to dispose of it https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...the-usa-canada

                  • AZguy
                    AZguy commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Do you have electrical skills enough to feel comfortable around potentially hazardous voltages and currents? If so, I had a similar battery that cracked just from hard riding and bouncing around on the frame and was able to purchase a new case for ~$20 (if I recall) - in your situation, providing having that comfort with those electrical skills, I might open it up and see if there appears to be even minor damage to any of the cells, BMS and wiring and if not, then find a new case for it.

                    OTOH if not super comfortable working around potentially hazardous electrical stuff *or* there is even a hint of damage to the cells, cell busses, BMS/wiring I'd take the advise of it's time for a newer, better battery ;-}

                  Hi!

                  I got issues on two 52v Luna smart chargers that both were ordered at the same time (Nov. 2018). The first charger (used by someone else for the bike I built him), got issues last April, where it would only charge to 50% (don't remember exactly but a little before that it either only charged to 80% or at least the last time it did charge it only went to 80%, even when set to 90% or 100%).

                  Now my own charger seems to have the same issue. It only charged to 80% yesterday even when set to 90% or 100%. Today I rode it and just plugged it in again. It now is charging again, we'll see where it stops, but I highly doubt it'll charge to 100% again.

                  Another thing is that on both it now displays a lower voltage when plugged into the wall (when charging they still display the correct voltage tho).

                  Any ideas on how to fix this?

                  Comment


                  • Pizzabroodje
                    Pizzabroodje commented
                    Editing a comment
                    If you check Amazon you'll see quite a bit of negative reviews about the Satiator. For me the price is not justifiable, even without the fact that there's people complaining about the quality / reliability.

                    I understand you don't want to reveal the manufacturer. I somehow thought all Luna chargers were out of stock but apparently only the 52V one is.

                    There's a Riden RK6006-C power supply that seems very good, with extremely high ratings for the brand.
                    My main worry here would be what would happen if one of the cables got unplugged from the supply while charging. Is this a realistic worry or wouldn't anything happen?

                  • brothergc
                    brothergc commented
                    Editing a comment
                    here is the one I have and it is way more easier on the wallet and it is nice
                    52v 300W Super Charger 80/90/100% - 1-5 AMP Lithium-Ion Battery Simply the best charger available for Lithium-Ion batteries. With - Electrify Bike


                    other options are available


                    48v available too just be sure Your battery charge port is compatible and that you select the correct adapter before buying

                  • Pizzabroodje
                    Pizzabroodje commented
                    Editing a comment
                    @brothergc

                    The 300W one is the one I linked from Alibaba that's 2pcs for €150 ex. tax.

                    Looking further into it I also didn't think about the cutoff current, which I think for charging batteries would also be important to have set correctly, no? The Riden RK6006 doesn't have that, but the RD6006 does, and it also has a special output port that detects if the battery is properly plugged in.
                    This seems like the best one so far, but they're €117 a piece ex. tax.
                    Edit: Seems like the special charging port isn't suitable for use on batteries that have a BMS. I asked the seller why and he said: "because battery with protection board can't be detected the voltage at green port". A bit broken English but I think he means that it just wouldn't be able to detect the voltage of the battery if it has a BMS. I did see that the way it detects voltage in battery charging mode is different, stopping for a second with charging, then check the voltage, then continue charging if needed. (Should be the same as a Satiator does tho so don't see why it shouldn't work?)
                    Anyways, if that's their recommendation, I think I might as well just get the cheaper RK instead of the RD version.

                    Also found this one which seems very similar in function to the Satiator (you're able to select the battery chemistry and amount of cell groups which it bases the voltage on, up to 60V; current version is a bit different from the pictures), but at a way lower cost (€130 ex. tax):


                    Seems very solid but I don't know if I can really justify the price.
                    Last edited by Pizzabroodje; 07-18-2023, 07:38 AM.
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