Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Ask an ebike technical question get an answer within 30 minutes or so.

Collapse
This is a sticky topic.
X
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Hi ebike techs,i need to know about how the 3 Speed Adjustable Switch wth Cruise Control

    divides the speed in the 3000w cyclone,is it 750,1500 and 3000w or it is different?thanks .

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      It just cuts at a certain speed, not at a certain power level unfortunately.
      Also please note last I heard it only works with stock cyclone controller at this time.

    Originally posted by Luiggi View Post
    Hi ebike techs,i need to know about how the 3 Speed Adjustable Switch wth Cruise Control

    divides the speed in the 3000w cyclone,is it 750,1500 and 3000w or it is different?thanks .
    The 3-speed switch on my Infineon controller is 33/66/99% of phase current.

    Comment


      Does anybody know the max amps supplied by the USB port on the 48v Killer Whale battery pack from LunaCycle.com (the plug you can use to charge your phone)?

      Why: I'm considering using the USB plug on the battery pack to power lights and I'm thinking I would need 6-10 watts (~6 watts for a head light and ~2 watts for a tail light). This means the USB port needs to support ~2 amps (5v x 2amps = 10 watts). I'm also considering lighting alternatives I'm reading about in these forums, finding many alternatives and do's and don'ts (like don't bypass the BMS, do fuse your circuit, etc.). Thanks in advance for an answer and any other advice you feel strongly about!

      Comment


      • e-rod
        e-rod commented
        Editing a comment
        WRLee, luna has a $37.95 cyclops headlight, plenty of light without blinding everone. a $14.95 rear bright led light, here.. https://lunacycle.com/extras/lights/ Both have water resistant switchs and built in fuses. I soldered the headlight wires(red + blk) into the tailight wires(red+blk) at the tailight then soldered the tail light wires into the battery conector plug (red+blk). The lights are hooked to your big battery, and will work with the bike turned on or off.

      • ykick
        ykick commented
        Editing a comment
        Worked on an old generic Dolphin pack with USB charge port recently. Very surprised by the low quality and marginal components of the USB circuit.

        Fella said it quit working one day so I removed it along with the ON/OFF switch. Pack still worked (after balancing cell groups) but I wouldn’t have trusted that USB port for 0.5A let alone 2A. Luna Killer Whale is likely improved but is it worth guessing with regard to mission critical lighting?

        I'm a fan of pair tactical flashlights running internal 18650 mounted up front. I don't ride in remote darkness as much anymore but 2qty of those and some sort of wrap red LEDs on the rear I'm pretty happy and in compliance with the law.

      • WRLee
        WRLee commented
        Editing a comment
        Thanks, all of you, who have successfully steered me back in the right direction. I'm abandoning my USB notions. Luna's lighting, especially the Cyclops is one I've been looking at...thanks for the endorsement.

      I built with assistance a bike using the ebikekit back in 2010/2011 with Elite Power Solutions battery pack. I disliked how heavy the bike was - I didn't really expect that going into the project. The battery was big and heavy at 19.8 lbs. I used the ebike like probably 5 times since I built the bike. Long story short - I'm trying to sell the bike now- but its hard to sell a custom built bike. Thus, my alternative is to buy a much lighter and smaller battery pack. I stumbled upon your website, and I see some batteries that appears pretty good. The question is how much does each 48v pack weigh (not all of your pages have weight), and what is the difference between the different 48v packs?

      Comment


      • ykick
        ykick commented
        Editing a comment
        700Wh 18650 packs generally weigh about 7-8lbs.

      hi
      I have 26" x 4" bike
      I am planning to buy the motor Bafang BBS02 Mid Drive eBike KIT

      showing on this page
      Get the Bafang BBS02 for only $525 and transform any bicycle into an electric beast. Do up to 30mph and use the gears of your bike to shift into low and climb big hills.


      which battery I could buy that will supply the best distance range
      please mention more than one battery that I could choose from with pricds
      thank you

      Comment


      • commuter ebikes
        commuter ebikes commented
        Editing a comment
        There are batteries listed in the options on the link page.

      • ykick
        ykick commented
        Editing a comment
        Sorry to say BBS02 kit is probably the wrong choice for 26" X 4" Fat Tire bike. Most of those use 100-120mm BB shell and BBSHD are available in those sizes. BBS02 isn't or not readily available in anything except 68mm BB.

        Battery distance range is mostly a matter of how fast, how steep, how heavy and for how long? Provide that data then someone can ballpark estimate some pack choices.

      Can somebody please tell me about any site where i can learn how to install a cycle analyst cyclone for my luna mid drive 3000w motor,and when luna cycle is going to have that for sale,thank you and thanks for your previous answers.

      Comment


      • Luiggi
        Luiggi commented
        Editing a comment
        Thanks for your answer,but does the batt-man limits the speed and power watts?because that is all i want,thanks.

      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        Neither the cycle analyst nor the batt-man do that. The controller would need a direct CA plug for the CA to do that, and the controller has no such plug.
        You can use the 3 speed switch to limit the speed (this does not affect overall power though)
        Distributors and builders of high power electric bikes and trail bikes plus parts

      • Luiggi
        Luiggi commented
        Editing a comment
        But i saw in many youtube videos the cycle analyst v2 and v3 limits the amount of power and the speed of the ebike motor,or do you mean it doesn't do that with luna cycle 3000w mid drive?is not capable?if is not,does luna cycle have any that can limits the speed and power of LC mid drive 3000w motor?thanks.

      Does the DPC-14 color display support and function properly a 52v battery?

      Comment


      • ykick
        ykick commented
        Editing a comment
        No. But for many users it works good enough. Main complaint is that it only displays up to 56.5V when volt meter is selected. HOC (hot off charger) 52V pack is 58.8V so that bothers some people. Once you ride and apply power voltage drops under 56V anyway and the volt meter is very usable. Minor annoyance rather than major fail, IMO. Percentage meter never work quite right with any pack voltage so I ignore them and rely on volt meter as my fuel guage and battery health (sag) meter.

      hi...I ordered the Mini battery ...can any one tell me the proper way to charge this battery ? ..also..any tips on how to connect the battery to the trike ports ? when using ...does the battery have a way of connecting to the frame ? do you duct tape it to the frame ? hold it in your lap ? .. the cords that came with it are like 4 inches long ! also I bought the thumb throttle for the trike but cant figure out how to connect it

      Comment


      hi...I ordered the Mini battery ...can any one tell me the proper way to charge this battery ? ..also..any tips on how to connect the battery to the trike ports ? when using ...does the battery have a way of connecting to the frame ? do you duct tape it to the frame ? hold it in your lap ? .. the cords that came with it are like 4 inches long ! also I bought the thumb throttle for the trike but cant figure out how to connect it

      Comment


      • mtm408
        mtm408 commented
        Editing a comment
        I own two Mighty Mini cubes. To charge, plug in the charger and then plug the battery to the charger. If your charger has a amp setting, don't use anything higher than 5. I usually use 2 amps on mine. Both mine came with a battery bag. I don't have a trike, but I was able to mount the battery under my seat using the velcro straps on the bag. As Paxtana stated above, you may need to use an extension depending on how and where you mount your battery. You may need to be creative on how and where you mount the battery.

      I need a small frame fat tire E-bike 15". What are my options ?
      Last edited by Charlie K; 10-18-2017, 04:56 PM.

      Comment


      My BBSHD harness...everything is hooked up except the cable to rear brake. Ok to leave that hanging free or will it effect motor performance? (I'll cover connector end).
      Thanks

      Comment


      • ykick
        ykick commented
        Editing a comment
        No need to use brake connectors/switches if you don't want them. In fact, one of the 1st troubleshooting steps is to unplug brakes to eliminate them from the system if system powers ON but doesn't run.

      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        Personally I cover the plug with a dab of dielectric grease before taping it up. This way if water ever gets under whatever you are using to cover it, it's not going to short out the wiring because it's packed with grease.

      Hi folks, new member here. I have made up my mind that I am going to purchase a Bafang BBS02 and install it on my 2002 Greenspeed GTO. I had my heart set on the Cyclone 3000 but after coaching from some of your members the Bafang seems like a much better decision. It is my first real build but I consider myself fairly adept and the wealth of information here is amazing, I simply don't need the headache that seems to go along with the Cyclone. Here are my concerns: 1. Finding a single build with this model trike for reference has been futile. A little moral support would go a long way for me. 2. Members and others claim that this motor can do damage to my boom (twisting), especially if said boom is extended (I am 6'-4'', it's extended all the way!). 3. My research has told me that the BBS02 has a significant amount of drag to the motor while peddling. Some claim that peddling at all is simply useless. I really don't want that. My intended use for the assist will be mainly for hills and getting myself out of traffic trouble with a burst of speed, the rest of the time I will be peddling. and finally: I was going to build my own battery (I have built a couple) out of these packs for sale on Ebay, wiring multiple packs in series to get my desired voltage. Any and all comments would be appreciated. I love my new trike and I want to get this right. Thanks, Chas

      Comment


      • Gr8fun
        Gr8fun commented
        Editing a comment
        Pedal input can be significant if you are programmed with lower pas levels, drive it like a bicycle, and pedal with the input of a man and not a ghost.

      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        If the frame is aluminum it might flex a bit, typically you're better off with steel. You might find some good info on similar builds on bentrider power assist section

        If you are 6'4" you might consider BBSHD over BBS02 since you're likely heavier than the average guy, BBSHD works best with a heavier load (the HD stands for heavy duty)
        I don't think mid drives add much drag at all, especially compared to a DD hubmotor (even a geared hub adds a significant amount to rotating mass and therefore adds drag). But keep it in PAS 1 and you'll be happy.
        If you are not using a BMS please use cell loggers with low voltage alarms for safety.

      • BK Xray
        BK Xray commented
        Editing a comment
        I have used the BBS02 on a tandem trike with a 2" boom. I didn't have trouble with twisting but it did tend to creep in a bit but we were pushing almost 500 pounds. I ended up adding a hose clamp around the boom right where it goes into the frame and that solved the problem. The BBS02 will have plenty of power on your trike.

      https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-LG-36V-4...UAAOSwuspY9YNZ Here is the link to the battery packs I was thinking about using.

      Comment


      • calfee20
        calfee20 commented
        Editing a comment
        Those batteries are $59 per amp/hr. A Luna mini is $50 and their big 24 amp triangle is $33.33 per amp/hr.

      I have a Luna Charger 52V Advanced 300W Ebike Charger ordered a few months ago and it has been working great until this last week. I plug it into the wall and most the time it will never show above 13V on the LED display. Occasionally it will cycle up to the full 58.8V. I have plugged it into three different locations (work, home, and a friend's house), but it acts the same way at each location. All of this is with no connection to the battery.

      Connecting to the battery (a Luna 52v 20ah battery) at the low voltage and no charging will take place. At the normal voltage (58.8), it will charge, but do so erratically (i.e. it cuts off at random times/voltage, regardless of the percentage switch selection). I'm a bit frustrated as the bike is my primary means to get to work and right now I cannot rely on it. I suppose I should buy a backup charger, but I'd like to get this working first. Thank you.

      Comment


      • calfee20
        calfee20 commented
        Editing a comment
        You should have a spare charger. They seem to be a weak link in the chain. For various reasons I have 3 of the advanced chargers from various time periods. They are all slightly different. One of them pooped out just a couple of days ago. It was the one I was using for a 90% charge. I will have to follow my own advice in the post below.

      There could be a dead spot in one of the potentiometers. This link shows how to adjust the charger. http://electricbike.com/forum/forum/...i-and-advanced

      If I were doing this I would sweep the adjusting screw back and forth a little bit before adjusting the voltage. Did you ever have a scratchy volume knob on an old stereo or TV. If when you are adjusting the voltage it jumps around that might indicate that the pot is bad. If however the voltage doesn't change there will probably be another problem.

      If you can, inspect the printed circuit board on both sides with a magnifier. Look for bad solder joints or burned components. Smell will help with burned stuff. I am not an electronic tech but I have been able to fix most things buy looking for simple mechanical faults.

      Comment


      • High Drag
        High Drag commented
        Editing a comment
        I must have a newer version of the charger as the potentiometers were located in different locations than the how-to you posted. That being said, I wiggled each back and forth with a screwdriver and left them pretty much at the same position they were in before. Four charges so far and everything seems to be working again, but I'll post again if it has the same problems in the near future. Thanks for the suggestions.
    Working...
    X