Ask an ebike technical question get an answer within 30 minutes or so.

[dana]

Hi, I can’t find my original post. You asked me to do some tests - well, I did my best to film it happening.

To recap, it is clicking that means I lose my footing when pedaling. I initially thought it was the freewheel but it wasn’t. I also thought it was the chain but the mechanic confirmed that was fine too.

It doesnt happen unless under load. It has happened since the day I got the bike but I thought it was normal
and I should just ride it gently, but has gotten so bad the bike is unusable.

See these two links. It’s the best I can do! Hope it’s useful.

What should I do to get it repaired? Do I need to send a part back?

Dana

[paxtana]

Hi Dana that kinda sounds like it's coming from the rear hub not the motor, due to the kind of sound it is making. I take it you hear this when doing throttle as well as PAS?

If you were to put the bike up on a stand and hit throttle while using the rear brake (unplugging any ebrakes if you have them connected) this may provide enough resistance to replicate the issue without riding. (I can make you a quick video if you need an example of what I mean).

If you can replicate the issue in this way you should be able to pinpoint more closely where the sound is originating whether that is the motor or the rear hub.

Assuming it is the rear motor you can send it in for inspection if you like, or open it up and have a look. Likely it is the nylon gear if it's the motor. Feel free to email support for further help on the issue. Support@lunacycle.com

[calfee20]

You seem certain that the freewheel is Ok so I would check the clutch and the teeth it engages. http://lunacycle.com/parts/bafang-pa.../bbshd-clutch/ Watch the video.

Follow paxtana's advice to.

[Sruikyl]

I just bought a 52v advanced mini luna charger, it seems when the battery is below 49V the charger switches on and off every 2 seconds, like a relay, fan doesn't come on and it charges VERY slowly. Like .5 amp bursts. Checked all settings in the BMS and nothing would cause this, checked all the cells and the cell pack has 99% uniformity. Checked the charger fuse and it's fine. Once above 49V it charges normally, like its hitting some kind of cut-off? I wouldn't think 49V for a 52V pack is THAT low that it would need a wake up charge, right?

[paxtana]

Email support@lunacycle.com we have a fix for this that's arriving in a couple days.

[patrick hotra]

I've used my BBSHD 52 volt kit several times over the past three weeks and it is performing great. I've taken rides as long as 33 miles and still have 50+ volts left at the end of the ride. There are a couple of things I could use help with. When I shut off the display, often I can not turn it back on by pressing he On/Off button. If I bump the thumb throttle I get a small kick from the rear wheel, which seem to discharge a residual charge in the system and then I can turn on the display. This doesn't happen every time, but the system seem to hold a small charge occasionally when shut down. Also the display is resetting the odometer as well as the trip odometer, and I am not storing accumulated milage. Thanks for your help.

[paxtana]

Sounds like the display is acting up. Might want to email support.

[Luiggi]

Can sombody please tell me how many lumens does the dual led Front Light from luna cycle have,thanks.

[paxtana]

Sorry we don't have that info. It's definitely not dim though.

[gilaparker]

I have a 2012 giant Avail 5 (current rims are Giant S-R2) and I was hoping to up a front wheel hub of the Golden Pie V5 Golden Motor Hub Kit.

I was wondering how wide the 700 Golden pie stand rim is?
I saw in the Q/A it said the generic rim is 1.5", does that include the 700 or just the 26? is there a way to get a width at 25 or even at least a 28?

[paxtana]

Pretty sure generic rim is 1.5 on both 700 and 26.
We have custom built 700c dm24 option if you want wider. Given the typical cost of a wheelbuild from your LBS, the $50 we charge is well worth it.

[gilaparker]

sorry didn't put units in the post. if the standard is 1.5 inches that's what 38mm about. the widest i can fit on my bike and still have my brakes work is 28mm. I looked on the Alexebike rims and there is a 28mm rim, would it be possible to request that style EV23 rim? (http://www.alexrims.com/products/ev23/)

[paxtana]

We don't have that one..
Can you use different brakes? You don't want to go with a thinner rim on a big DD hubmotor, a hubmotor that heavy needs a tough rim or the rim will not last long. Even the generic rim is too thin for long term durability IMO, that's why we offer DM24 option.

If possible I would suggest a different bike altogether to be honest. Disc brakes are really preferable for safety since the Magic Pie is a powerful motor, most powerful hubmotor we sell anyway.

[antalgebra]

I have a v5 SmartPie from Luna laced into a 29" wheel and wondering what the replacement spoke's length/thickness/material is? "Alex EBike Rim DM24 29" with DT Swiss Champion Spokes" @ https://lunacycle.com/smart-pie-v5-g...motor-hub-kit/

[paxtana]

It's 2mm, aka 14 gauge.

[antalgebra]

The most important part of this question was the length

[paxtana]

I don't have that information, it's going to likely vary depending on which side the spoke is on as well as wheel rim selected, whether front or rear was selected, and any variation in production. Since you already have the wheel your best choice would be to remove the spoke on the side you want a spare of and use a spoke ruler https://www.bikehubstore.com/product-p/ruler.htm
Set the spoke onto the ruler and it will precisely tell you what replacement length needed.
The spokes are Champion 2.0, stainless steel.

[julianbrennan]

Hello. I bought one of your 52v slim shark packs (the 13.5ah version), and a 52v 2.5amp charger w/ adjustable charge percentage dial, and am having a problem. I read the quick start guide completely, and set the dial to 100% charge, but when I went to plug it in, the LEDs stay on for about a second, then flash and blink off with a clicking noise (accompanied by the fan starting for just a brief moment, and then both go dark, and the process repeats. I've uploaded a video showing the problem. I've tried multiple outlets and had the same experience. I don't want to damage the battery if this is abnormal, and it certainly seems that it is.

Thank you,

Julian

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kdWUfEd2neA

[paxtana]

Yes it's abnormal. One of the batches of chargers behaves like this when the pack voltage is below a certain threshold. We have a fix incoming and it should be arriving within days, please email support and we will send you one. support@lunacycle.com
According to other users who have reported the issue if you leave it plugged in it will charge very slowly, and eventually it will pass the threshold where it will begin charging normally. So in the meantime if you want to just leave it plugged in overnight this may be enough to get it past that point so it's still usable until we get you the fix.

[ChrisAgudo]

Hey guys!

Where would I wire lights on the 3 speed switch for the cyclone kit? I have the "Dual LED Front Light" and "Rear Light" from luna cycle. Much appreciated! :)

[paxtana]

Why would you wire lights on a speed switch

[RmooreID]

I am looking to purchase a GearSensor and I have a question about it. I was reading that there is an older version (P/N: GSxxxx) and a newer version that is specific to IGH shifters (P/N: GS-1xxx). Do you know what changed and if there is any significant improvement with the “GS-1” vs. the older “GS”?

[paxtana]

https://lunacycle.com/gearsensor-for-bafang-mid-drives/

latest version works on both IGH and derailer. Likely the sensititvity changed to account for differences in how much the cable is pulled comparing igh to derailer, so they probably did a bit of extra stuff to make it less likely to trigger false positives with the increased sensitivity

[jrothe]

I have a 52V Mighty Mini pack (30Q version) and it looks like the BMS may need to be replaced. Can you tell me where I can order a replacement BMS and what the price is? There don't appear to be any BMS products listed on the BMS page of the website. Thanks!

[paxtana]

You would have to email support after opening it up and taking a pic of the existing bms. Probably want to email support first though just in case there's something else that can be done to avoid this, as it might be something else and not the bms at all. Very rarely do we ever see bms issues on that particular pack so that's why I would suggest checking with support first.

[jrothe]

Ok, thanks, I will check with support.

[dz9c92]

Hello, I have had my BBSHD for about 6 months now on a daily commuter 2016 Diamondback Insight ST. I have recently taken my bike to the local bike shop to get tuned up. I have ended up replacing my entire drivetrain after 700 miles with the motor minus the derailleur. Since day one with this motor I have had constant issues with the chain wanting to fall to the left side (towards frame) of the Luna 42T chainring. It happens when hitting a bump or when shifting to lower gears even after extensive maintenance from a local bike shop guy. I feel like the ebike community is very unpopular because I cannot find any sign of a walled chainring available for this motor. I find it odd as nearly everyone has chain issues.I say walled because I dont know how else to explain it, most professionally assembled ebikes appear to have a decent chainring with walls on both sides so that the chain cannot leave the chainring. I feel like my only options I have are too do a custom CAD drawing in solidworks and send to a local machine shop to custom make or simply limit my shifting mechanism to not allow the first 3 gears, my problem gears. In a perfect world, I would love to simply have a rear cassette with maybe 3 gears hi med low that are where my last 3 high gears are on my 7 chainring stock cassette so that there is less of a left-right stretch of the chain that is throwing it off when reaching to lower gears. Any insight is appreciated, Im desperate and tired of having chain grease /lube all over me all the time.

[paxtana]

dz9c92 You have what is known as a bad chainline. The solution is extensively covered in the documentation, but I've also added the entire post below into a dedicated knowledge base post just in case the info was hard to find.

You have 3 different approaches. Use a different chainring that wraps around the motor housing, rework the cassette or switch to IGH.

The chainrings all have different offset, see this link for a comparison of the offset. Any chainring that is larger than 42t can wrap around the secondary reduction housing to put the teeth further inbound. However just because it CAN, does not mean that all the >42t chainrings actually do. The most affordable chainrings that are 42t do not provide as much offset as the expensive ones. The chainring with the most offset is the Eclipse, followed by the Lekkie.

Alternately you can rework your cassette, this is where you rearrange the sprockets on a cassette so you keep the gear range but you use less gears to do so. You may need to buy a cheap cassette to mod it, this link goes over options on that. It's a lot easier than you might think, and it saves wear on drivetrain since you shift less.

Finally, you can switch to an IGH. With this your chainline never changes no matter what gear you have it in.

Here's a visual aid:

Example of a Mighty Mini 30T chainring with no offset and resulting poor chainline. The Luna Mighty Mini 30T is a popular chainring but can be problematic without additional modifications due to completely flat design that does not offset the chain

[Orrie]

I recently received my BBSO2 kit, with 52v 13.5 amp/hr pack, and it is amazing!

I am now working on adding a system of lights to the bike. My plan is to have 2 headlights and one flashing light in the front, and one red flashing light in the back. And I want to attache a horn and a switch to control all of these. I am drawing this plan from an article from Micha at ebikeschool.com.

When looking at the 4 pin connector to the battery is see that the two outer pins have wires connected that go to the mid-drive and are connected via the Anderson power poles.

This leaves the two middle pins open. My plan is to connect wires to these pins and run the lights directly from the 52v battery pack, all the lights are rated from 12-80 v.

Basically my question is, does this make sense? Or am I doing something that will damage the battery. I have never done any electrical work before so I am learning a lot in this process.

I am also trying to figure out how to best wire the components, in series or parallel or some combination and how to figure in the switch.

Any advice or insight would be appreciated.

Thank You,

Orrie

[paxtana]

Pins on what, the cradle? I don't recommend doing that, just wire it up in parallel with the wiring.
Tell you what, you don't even really have to strip back the wiring to do this.. you would use a posi-tap.

https://www.posi-products.com/posiplug.html

Screw one on each of the power wiring, near where that Anderson connector is. That's all there is to it, then you have a positive and a negative, just make sure you get the polarity right for the light. Oh and you might want to hit it with some dielectric grease or liquid electrical tape once you got it all set so it's nicely waterproofed.

[Orrie]

Thank you very much. That seems a lot easier than what I was planning to try. Much appreciated.