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    Hello,

    I have had my bbshd for about a week and the left crank arm has already stripped out (it was hand spun in and then tightened). After a quick search this appears to be a somewhat common problem. Are there any other cranks that are more reliable or are bafang cranks proprietary to the motor unit and no others exist?

    Thanks!

    Comment


    I'm wondering is it possible and if so, how hard it is to change a drive unit on a luna cycle bafang from 120mm to 68mm? If it is possible are parts available?

    Comment


    I think I didn't ask my question correctly. Can you change the part on the drive-unit that is 120 mm (the spindle that goes inside the BB) to a 68 mm without replacing the whole
    drive-unit?

    Comment


      No not really. While it is technically possible you would need one of these other sized bare motors for the parts to do it.

      The BBSHD casing has 2 main parts, the core (this is where the stator and rotor are) and the rest of it. The spindle goes into this main part (not the core). While you might be able to put a longer spindle in that part, the part the spindle is going into is still going to be the wrong size.

      So in order to do this you would need to swap out everything but the core. Nobody sells bare motors as "everything but the core" so you would still need the right sized bare motor for your application.

      Comment


        Hi - for the roam fusion, what is the default BBSHD watts programming (non ludicrious)-- is it 1500 (says in the description 'can be programmed' to 1500 but this suggests you have to ask for it)? And for the roam fusion, what does that translate to (roughly) in terms of the top speed on flat terrain (throttle only)? thanks!

        Comment


        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          I'm pretty sure at this point we use off-road programming for most of our bikes which is 1500. That's why we put the note that it is for off-road use only. The other option is factory stock programming which is 750. And then you have the ludicrous which is the highest power.

        I purchased an Electra electric assist bike five years ago. I love it but the shop where I purchased it in Newport Beach went out of business. I've done some work on my own like replacing the lead batteries with Lithium Ion but the throttle won't work now. I can't find a shop to help me... Can you recommend one near Tustin?

        Comment


        I have a build with the HD on a Motobecane Lurch. I had to use the 120 mm kit due to extreme angle of chainstay. With the motor shimmed, and the motor housing resting on the chainstay I have a 30t Mighty Mini chainring installed. This build puts the chainline parallel to the high gear outside. A lousy chain angle for the rest of the cassette. I need a chainring with no more than14mm offset and a maximum of 42 teeth to allow clearance of the chainstay. What do you guys have that meets my needs?

        Comment


        What is the offset of BBSHD Aluminum Chainring Adapter and 42T Sprocket?

        Comment


        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          Pretty sure it is 9mm. It uses same spider as the 40 and 44 bafang alloy rings just the ring is 42. If you need more offset you gotta go with the more spendy style where it actually wraps around secondary. Lekkie and Eclipse

        Hi was wondering if i can charge a shark battery 48v at 5 amps or is the barrel connector going to melt if i attempt that. if i can't what are my options. Do i charge at 3 amps or can i push it to 4 amps. The whole point in buying the advanced charger was to be able to charge faster. Can i convert my battery's charge port maybe?
        Last edited by intramorph; 11-08-2017, 09:59 PM.

        Comment


        • commuter ebikes
          commuter ebikes commented
          Editing a comment
          Why the hurry? Your battery will last longer at lower rates of charge.

        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          While higher current is more likely to heat things up, it is rare that we see a barrel/port melted, regardless of the amperage.
          Not saying it's impossible but it is unlikely. And if it were to happen while higher current would be a contributing factor it would likely not be the sole factor. More likely that combined with something else like salt or debris in the port, or a damaged barrel, or a faulty or worn out port that has a higher resistance than you would otherwise see.

          I do agree with commuter ebikes though that it's still best to charge slower when you can.

        • intramorph
          intramorph commented
          Editing a comment
          Thank you for your input Paxtana and commuter. I was just wondering if i can charge at full 5 amps if i'm in a hurry (for example) that was my only concern. So it should be safe. That is good news (:
          Last edited by intramorph; 11-08-2017, 11:02 PM.

        How do I even charge the damn battery??? I plug in and turn charger on and nothing. Just red and green light for hours. I plug into controller to test and nothing because the battery probably isn't even gettting charged.

        Comment


        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          First thing would be to verify the charger is working properly. For example testing its output via multimeter and a load test. And taking a pic of the wiring so we can see if there's anything in between charger and pack that shouldn't be there like adapters etc.

          Also you can try charging through discharge.

          There's a charger troubleshooting guide in the battery documentation that you probably want to check out as well.

        • Valmek
          Valmek commented
          Editing a comment
          I can't even ride the bike because it can't even turn on. I'm at work now will check later with multimeter.

        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          It should turn on at the least, the battery is not shipped dead..I would also bypass the battery using the charger as the power source directly to the controller to confirm that the bike turns on when the power source is taken out of the equation. This is also explained in the document I mentioned

        I just received my new Luna 60V 20ah battery pack. I put it to use yesterday, on a small hub drive bike, with a new high end controller. It tripped the BMS 20 times in my 1st ride.
        The pack is suppose to have a 50 amp continuous BMS in it, yet it "trips" at less than 30 amps . IT went off at 14 amps, with the flick of the throttle. EVERY time i use more than 1/4 throttle, the pack trips.

        What are my options here? As I said it is brand new, just ordered. Where to I file an issue with this???

        Thank you

        Comment


        • Valmek
          Valmek commented
          Editing a comment
          I can't even get my 60v 20ah to even work and they already told me they don't accept returns so if I can't get mine to work I'm out $770.
          Last edited by commuter ebikes; 11-09-2017, 12:36 PM. Reason: Deleted curse word.

        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          Please contact support@lunacycle.com so we can go over some basic troubleshooting. We'll want to confirm it is indeed the BMS tripping and not something else like wiring or controller. We will sort it out for you

        • commuter ebikes
          commuter ebikes commented
          Editing a comment
          I have a 100A BMS and it will trip the circuit breaker in the BMS if I twist the throttle as quickly as possible. I rectify this by accelerating a little more slowly.

          Regarding your BMS tripping, ride around drawing lower rates of current and report back here what the max current that you can draw under these circumstances.

          A freshly charged battery can put out higher bursts than when the battery is close to where it needs charging.

          This problem could be split into two easier problems, burst and continuous current. As mentioned, one can solve the burst problem by accelerating more slowly. For the continuous current, you want determine how much continuous current this battery can draw (while cruising near top speed, for example). Can you please determine for us how much continuous current this battery is able to deliver at a high cruising speed?

        Hello!

        Figured I post this here along with the ticket in case other forum users have an answer. Luna Cycle Case #91508

        Just got a Sondors Thin 7 and am upgrading the controller and LCD with the products suggested on your site. (Hot rod 20amp and LCD) Unfortunately, I do not have the throttle with the on/off switch but am purchasing a new one via amazon that should be arriving today.

        Can you tell me what the wires on the controller (6 pin black HIGO connector) go to so that I can wire up the throttle I'll be receiving today?

        The throttle shows the following setup.
        Red: +5v
        White: Signal
        Black: Negative
        Green: Battery Voltage Indicator
        Yellow: +positive switch
        Brown: -negative switch

        Click image for larger version  Name:	image.png Views:	1 Size:	186.1 KB ID:	50297

        I've looked through some posts and found a forum that showed the following: (Thanks Harry S for the post!)

        Click image for larger version  Name:	image.png Views:	1 Size:	391.2 KB ID:	50298


        From other posts as well, Im gathering the blue/green is used for the switch, but I want to make sure I wire it correctly. Also, would yellow be my voltage indicator?


        In summary, I think the wiring looks something like this but would love to confirm via a wiring diagram for the throttle plug on the hot rod 20 amp controller.
        My assumptions:

        Click image for larger version

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ID:	50300

        To complete this ultra long post, I'll be using these connectors after splicing the wires.
        Click image for larger version  Name:	image.png Views:	1 Size:	126.3 KB ID:	50299

        This should make it easier to connect/disconnect the throttle if needed in the future.

        Thanks in advance for the help!
        Brandon
        Last edited by techcomv; 11-10-2017, 09:54 AM.

        Comment


        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          You would probably want to ask on the sondors community forums to be sure. Or sondors Facebook group. Should have same diagram as original sondors controller.

        • techcomv
          techcomv commented
          Editing a comment
          Didn't think of that angle....thanks, I'll check there.

        Hello Eric and whoever else can advise me. Thank you: What is the correct method to down shift when in PAS 9 and a hill is approaching? Would you bring the PAS to 0 and down shift manually through the gears and then move PAS back up? To be even more careful, it might not be practical but would it be preferable to pull the bike over and shut off the controller and then get it into the correct lower gear and then re start the controller again? I'm assuming whatever answer you are going to give for downshifting would also apply for upshifting? Thank you. BTW I'm driving the Crusher 2 and love it.

        Comment


        • HIGHVOLTAGE
          HIGHVOLTAGE commented
          Editing a comment
          No need to shut off the bike or switch the PAS settings but shifting is important and generally you want to find a good medium on the gear. It depends on the situation of course, lower gear = more torque but less top speed. I think it would probably help to do some practice runs around your area using Throttle Only + Shifting, then after getting used to understanding how to shift properly under throttle, you can apply that same logic to the PAS functions.

          Also does your Crusher 2 have a Gear Sensor? If not, then you'll have to practice shifting while not under load. I find the best time to shift without a gear sensor is directly after I let go off the throttle and there's still some residual momentum in the chainring and cassette, enough to create a smooth shift. Takes a bit to get used to though.

        Do you sell the carrier parts to enable the 52v 13.5a Carbon Shark Pack to be swapped between 2 bikes?

        Comment


        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          I think at the moment we are sold out of carbon shark cradles.

        • theronchaplin
          theronchaplin commented
          Editing a comment
          I'd also love to get another cradle for the carbon shark. I've yet to find a vendor that has just the cradle.

        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          Most hardcase factories do not want to sell individual parts unfortunately, only whole cases. It makes stocking replacement parts very difficult.

        Yes it does have a gear sensor.

        Comment


        • HIGHVOLTAGE
          HIGHVOLTAGE commented
          Editing a comment
          Ah, then no worries about that last comment. It will cut the power for you automatically when you shift, so all you need to do is just gear it properly for the right hills.
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