This is a question about the Luna 52V Advance 300W charger. When doing a balance charge once the battery reaches full charge and the charger shuts off is it suppose to cycle off and on as the pack is balanced? Mine cuts off with 58.6 showing on the charger and never turns on again . I left it connected for about 3 hours before I disconnected it. The charger was showing 57.1V when I unplugged the battery.If this is not normal can the charger be fixed. It charges fine I just don't think it is balancing the battery. It has been functioning like this since I received it , I just was not in the room with it the whole time until this week when tried 2 balanced charging to see if it was cycling off and on. Any input or suggestion would be welcomed.
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High Voltage ...
I don't follow. The controller software shows the "Current %" limit for each of the PAS levels. If my Ludicrous controller puts out 50A max, and PAS setting for Levels 1, 2, 3 is 20%, 30%, 40% respectively, then wouldn't that mean that the amp draw would be 10A, 15A, and 20A for those levels and therefore fine for the small "extender" batteries? I can't really reprogram the controller when I'm on the bike and switching from the main 24ah fusion battery to the smaller batteries, right?
Jeff
HIGHVOLTAGE commented
8 minutes ago
Editing a comment
PAS levels won't really decrease your amp draw by much. You'll be better off dialing the current down on the controller. You can follow this link here for more details:
https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...shd-mid-drives
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It will make a difference, just not as much as it would if you put a hard cap on the amp draw. A big part of your amp draw comes from small things like accelerating from a stop or what gear ratio you're using. There are various ways to program on the fly though:
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I would recommend checking the profile in your controller to confirm you are using a similar profile with a linear progression like that, and confirming your results by testing in the real world before buying an extra battery under the assumption it will work fine. Try lugging it from a dead stop in the wrong gear uphill and check the peak on your display, keeping in mind that the actual current is double what the display is showing when using Ludicrous controller. You could also use an external wattmeter for more accurate reading of current.
If you are using a hardtail bike you might go for our rear rack battery and just plug it in or slide it on the rack when needed. This can do high current so you would even be able to use throttle if you wanted.
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High Voltage ...
Neither of those two options are available on the market - they both seem to be products in development. Is it really this hard to carry a portable battery to extend range?
Jeff
HIGHVOLTAGE commented
1 minute ago
Editing a comment
It will make a difference, just not as much as it would if you put a hard cap on the amp draw. A big part of your amp draw comes from small things like accelerating from a stop or what gear ratio you're using. There are various ways to program on the fly though:
https://lunacycle.com/luna-black-box...02-programmer/
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Hi,
I'm trying to figure out what's possible for an electric fat bike setup that will allow me to, at worst case scenario, throttle up a mountain for my daily commute (2k ft elevation for 6.5 miles) at 30mph. I don't care if use up most of the battery as I'll just charge it after I arrive at home. My biggest concern is being able to keep a high speed so the commute doesn't take so long that I'd rather drive a car. A fat bike is ideal because there could be snow, and the last mile is a dirt. I want to be able to handle anything.
In a perfect world, I would just buy this pre-built. I can build it myself if I have to.
Thanks!
The attached image and link is googles bike commute estimates. A car can do this commune in less than 20 minutes. That's what I'm competing with. 30 minutes would be fine. Anything more than that, and I'll be very tempted to just drive instead.
https://www.google.com/maps/dir/Mapl...40.0615284!3e1Attached FilesLast edited by mjezzi; 02-01-2018, 11:16 AM.Comment
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The Ludicrous version of the Apex can probably do it, as can our Sur-Ron dirtbike. Hypothetically you might be able to use the cyclone 3000 kit with the72v high performance 4000w ASI controller and a couple of our 72vbatteries in parallel..
Most Luna bikes can do that speed on the flats no problem. Hitting 30MPH on steep hills is more problematic since you really want to downshift on hills so as to not stress components. -
1,985ft over 6.5miles is 5.7% grade on average. I think you should be able to do low to mid 20s. Just for the climb,(forgetting about wind resistance and friction) assuming total weight of you plus bike being 130KG, it'll take 987watts to do 30mph. Add in friction and wind resistance, should be mid 20s just guessing with BBSHD. BBSHD is good for around 1300 watts sustained.
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I commute on a fat bike on level, paved streets and my bike (with a 72V system) uses about 1250W to maintain 30mph on the flat street.Originally posted by mjezzi View Post
To do what you want to do, you will need a beast of a bike. Choose the largest motor, beefiest controller, high capacity (e.g. 26Ah) battery that can supply 50+ A continuous, and a high current (e.g. 100A or higher) BMS.
One must conclude that a mid drive is better for the climbing.
FYI top speed with my 72V system (Cromotor with a standard winding) and Vee Snowshoe 2XL tires (31.5" diameter at 20psi) is 46mph. If you decide to run a lower voltage, you could estimate the top speed based on this figure (since the relationship between voltage and top speed is linear). Maybe 60V would work better for the task.Last edited by commuter ebikes; 02-04-2018, 09:49 PM.Comment
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Hi Eric,
I' have a Smart Pie 5 that I'm setting up for the first time. When I use the throttle, the initial ramp up in speed is quite steep. The wheel jerks into motion so much it would be disconcerting on a bike. How can I adjust the controller so the initial startup is smoother?
On another note, there is a cable that is cut on the wiring harness, so wondering why that is as well. I don't see a corresponding cable tip coming from the hub so perhaps it's okay to just trim it backComment
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If only bench testing I would be careful not to draw too many conclusions about how it will accelerate when a load is applied as this will be different.
If you want to change how quickly it ramps up this can be done with a program cable, you would set the Acceleration % setting lower than 100%.
See this link for more details https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wBsP8q40Vws
The extra wires can be ignored and just capped off it not already. See the wiring diagram for detailed info on what they can be used for.
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I am very interested in ordering one of your pre-built fat bikes to replace my BMW F650 motorcycle. I'm also considering building my own, but yours seem very well thought out. I want to know the difference between the standard build with a BBSHD versus the Ludicrous?
If I started with the standard build, Can't I just hack the controller and get to 2500W, or is it a different battery or controller?
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Ludi gives about the same amount of top speed but it has a lot more torque, i.e. it pulls almost double the peak current.
If getting a prebuilt bike where Ludi is an option (its only on the higher end bikes) it makes a lot of sense to go for it. You can dial down the current with a program cable if you want to get more range, so there's almost no downside to having it, besides it's a lot of fun. No you cannot hack a regular bbshd controller into a ludi, it is a hardware thing and the bbshd controllers are fully potted from the factory.
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THANK YOU! Nice to get a quick and understandable answer. I will be ordering soon. Torn between a 2017 4 Season 500 or 2017 4 Season 3000 or the Rhino. I plan to use it to commute over mountain forest roads with rear panniers. The 3000 appears to have a longer wheelbase than the 500. The Rhino looks longer than that and has great load capacity. I am 6'.
Is the 3000 truly bigger? does it have braze-ons so I can attach a rear rack? How much more does the Rhino weigh compared to the 3000? And is it noisier?Comment
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We are no longer taking orders for Rhino actually, and the KHS 500 is sold out until KHS sends us the new 2018 model which probably won't be for another month.
You can see some additional specs for the 3000 on KHS website http://khsbicycles.com/bikes/2017-kh...eason-3000-17/
Nice thing about the 3000 is it's a lot easier to upgrade to a top of the line Rockshox Bluto than something like the 1000, and it would be pretty much impossible on a 500.
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I am getting a new Alex dp21 rim becouse I keep bending rims and blowing tires daily. What spoke length do it need for a 27.5 rim? 27.5 in mm, that is 685.5mm that doesn't seem right.Comment
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You don't consider the 27.5. You use the ERD (effective rim diameter) of the rim that you will use to build the wheel.Originally posted by Z3r019 View Post
Spoke length also depends on the hub dimensions, number of spokes, and the lacing pattern (e.g. three cross) to be used . You need to use a spoke calculator. Try http://www.prowheelbuilder.com/spokelengthcalculator or any other online spoke calculator.
You CAN trust the published specs of the hub as published by the hub manufacturer. It is also okay to carefully measure these dimensions yourself.
You PROBABLY can trust the ERD printed on the rim, but I don't. I measure it with Wheelsmith rim rods. Most people, however, DO trust the ERD printed on the rim.
And definitely stick to the proposed lacing pattern!
If you don't want to mess with it, your wheelbuilder (e.g. LBS) will do the spoke length calculation for about $20. It is also sometimes included in the price of a wheel build, especially if the wheel builder is ordering the spokes.
The margin of error is considered to be 2mm. If your calculation is off by more than 2mm, expect to buy new spokes if you want a safe, strong wheel.Comment
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I'm really starting to give up on this. I received the replacement controller and attached the correct connector to hook up to battery. I tested the voltage again from battery, works, I tested along wire past the butt connectors to connect wires, still works. I checked the throttle as asked before I sent my original controller and it's the same exact thing as the original controller, when comes to the throttle no power is getting to it. I'm really starting to get frustrated with all this. I haven't been able to even see if the motor even works since I got all this stuff over 4 months ago on September 20th. What am I suppose to do now? I've pretty much so far have spent over $700 and 4 months on something just sitting in my closest not working.Last edited by Valmek; 02-04-2018, 08:29 PM.Comment
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I would recommend following up via support@lunacycle.com with a detailed summary, this thread is not really used for in-depth troubleshooting as there are hundreds of different topics within the same thread. It's good for a quick answer but we need an easily referenced rundown of everything that has happened and everything that has been tried (which obviously cannot happen on a thread 65 pages long). If you prefer you are welcome to create a separate thread on the forum and ask the community for help but again, a detailed summary will be needed.
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Strange.
I bought a used Luna KHS with 52v Shark this weekend with the expectation I could share the battery with a DIY BBSHD I recently assembled also with a 52v Shark.
Both are the 52v 13ah with the same labels.
https://lunacycle.com/52v-panasonic-...ah-shark-pack/
HOWEVER, the one from the KHS has 4 connectors on the battery/cradle...and the one I got for my DIY has 5 connectors.
Is this typical that it's kinda "pot luck" when it comes to number of connectors??
If so, is there a place to purchase just the connectors for the battery case/cradle?
If not, I am considering just removing the connector from the battery case and soldering an XT90 connector directly on the battery (and using a Luna triangle bag to connect the battery to various bikes).
Thoughts/comments/suggestions will be appreciated as always!
(Oh, BTW, I should add that there is apparently an issue with the battery/cradle connection on the KHS as it only intermittently makes a connection...)
Thanks...Last edited by psuholet; 02-05-2018, 05:17 AM.Comment
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The latest shark packs have some durability upgrades including better contacts between cradle>shark and reinforced mount tabs on the case so they are less likely to break off. These improvements were due to popular demand and hopefully will cut down on issues in the long run. This is described in the shark section of the hardcase battery documentation linked on the shark listing. https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...-documentation
Likely the intermittent power issue you are having is either related to loose contacts (one of the issues addressed by the upgrades) or water exposure. Both issues are documented with solutions on the above documentation.
Yes yu could use an xt90. Likely even keeping the cradle if you ran the connector wiring into the place where the cradle contacts currently are.
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Hi,
Fusion Roam Questions
Can I reprogram past the limits on the fusion roam without the ludicrous controller? If so how fast can it go? What is the range with minimal or leisurely pedaling around 30mph? Can i put snowshoe xl tires or any other fat tires on the fusion roam?
2017 4 season 500 fat tire questions
Can I reprogram past the limits on it without the ludicrous controller? If so how fast can it go? What is the range with minimal or leaisurely pedaling around 30mph?
Thanks,
SeanLast edited by raphkun; 02-05-2018, 10:37 AM.Comment
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No you cannot reprogram the stock controller past its 52V / 30A limit. Physical modification is required to increase its controller performance beyond stock levels, hence the ludicrous.
I would expect 30 mph to be around your top speed plus or minus a few mph depending on how charged your battery is, wind, incline, etc.
The battery holds 52V x 32Ah = 1664 Wh, or about enough juice to keep the bike at full throttle for one hour. I’d ballpark 25-30 miles range flat out before LVC.
Cut that range in half if using a Ludicrous controller.Last edited by moarpower; 02-05-2018, 12:16 PM.
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Good Morning
I installed a basic Luna BBS02 kit last weekend and have about 25 miles on it over the past week and the battery has been on the charger twice.
Last night I was moving the bike out from the underground garage and was riding up the ramp out of the garage on pedal assist 4/5. The ramp is about 30 yards long in total and I was pedalling up for no more than 10-15 seconds (not using the throttle and my cadence was avg). When I got to the top of the ramp the motor cut out and would not run. I rode the bike to where I was going (only about 200 yards) and I had two small bursts of power from the motor but that was all.
The display worked the whole time and the battery was showing 100%.
When I got home I charged the battery and it took about 3 hours worth of charge (3 amp charger and 13.5 AmpHr pack so perhaps the battery was not at 100%). I tried the battery again this am but the same results. The display turns on but the motor doesnt turn.
I have the basic Luna programming (I assume) and was hoping for a reliable commuter build.
The bike ran well when it came home two days prior after a 5 mile ride.
Any thoughts?Comment
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Was the battery stored in freezing temps? Did you see any major voltage drops? Psuholet's advice is good, I would also check the phase wires in the controller, maybe one is coming loose. There's a video here: https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...bbshd-or-bbs02 -
Thanks for the advice. This is my report from last night.
I re-charged the battery so I assume it was actually at 100% once I tried the second time round. It was never below freezing as I've only had it a week and we haven't had freezing temps lately.
Three interesting things happened, but first all I did was unplug and plug in all the connectors to make sure that it wasn't a connection issue.
1) I tried the throttle and my watt meter on the 750C showed 1445 Watts but the motor didnt spin. I then tried the pedal assist and the watt meter also spun up to 1445 Watts but the motor did not spin. No matter how much throttle I applied (small, medium or full) it always read 1445 Watts, the same as when I changed from 1/2/3/4/5 on the pedal assist, always 1445 Watts
2) Two hours later my wife tried the bike (just walked up and turned on the 750C) and the motor started spinning with throttle and pedal assist. I went out to check and it was still only showing 1400-1445 Watts no matter what I did AND it threw an error code of 12H. The motor was NOT spinning at full speed.
3) This morning I tried again and was able to have some variability in the Watt output reading. The 750C was displaying between 1000 and 1445 Watts and the motor was spinning pretty slow.
NOTE: All the testing above was done with the back wheel off the ground and no load on the bike.
NOTE 2: I have a 44 tooth Chain ring in the front (Bafang Standard) and 9 gears in the back and I was going up my small parking lot in roughly the middle gear on the rear cassette when the motor had its first problem.
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I installed the BBSHD Kit on my son's Mongoose this weekend.. Using a 52v Mighty Mini Cube Samsung Ebike Battery Pack 30q 6ah.. Everything works wonderfully, but after a few mins of riding the LCD says err -21. The bike continues to work just fine, but the display give this error. Powering down the display and powering back up resolves the error, but 30 seconds later, it displays the error 21 msg again.
Please help! Thanks!Comment
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