Oops, I posted this in the wrong spot. Trying again here: I cut off the XT60 from my charger and bolted on a solderless barrel connector. When I plugged into the battery I got a big spark and burnt the barrel (the battery seems ok on the original charger). Did I reverse the wires? I put brown on +, blue on -
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Built a BBS02 bike about half a year ago and it's been working like a dream. Yesterday, when I wanted to go for a ride, the motor had just stopped working. The display works, as does the speedometer, breaks and throttle, the motor just never kicks in. I uploaded a small clip to youtube to show the issue.
So did my controller simply die on its own? And is there any way to check? Any help is greatly appreciated!
Edit: Ok so I just played around with it some more, and all of a sudden it started working again for like 30 seconds. Like fully functioning, no idea what I did, and then it stopped working again. Maybe I should open the motor to see if the controller is fully plugged in?Last edited by andenq; 03-10-2018, 01:56 AM.
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Which connector do you mean? This one https://1drv.ms/u/s!Ahyq6Yk7PI2eoOdBYLmYk75CH3aVvw ? Or do you mean this one https://1drv.ms/u/s!Ahyq6Yk7PI2eoOdCuV2gj5Pw5DiScw ? And what did you replace it with?
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Found the troubleshooting documentation here in the forum, crumpled the contacts on the battery together and cleaned the contacts on the cradle. Now it fits better and isn't as loose. Problem remains however, still has weird behaviour. I've added a custom XT60 connector in there, I'll try to bypass it somehow to see if that might somehow be the problem.Last edited by andenq; 03-15-2018, 04:14 AM.
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I'm working on my install of a Bafang, and I have hydraulic brakes. People have posted instructions on installing the sensor with a magnet. I have to make a bracket to hold the sensor.
It would be really, really helpful to know how far apart does the sensor need to be from the magnet. How far to "break" the connection and turn off the motor? How far to "close" the connection to allow the motor to run?
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I have the 48v advanced charger. I posted a message about a week ago and maybe I didn't explain correctly. Right now when I plug in my charger it green saying it's 54.6. When I test the battery with my multi-meter it reads 50.1v. I watched the adjustment video. So would I have to adjust final charge up to 59.1v to compensate for the 4.5v difference? If so would I use P1,2 or3 for the adjustment?
Thanks,
Troy
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i have a luna eclipse 48t chainring i want installed onto my luna bike (luna crusher 2) the bike shop said i need about 13mm distance to clear (from hitting the chain gaurd/bike)
doing the math looks like i would need about 5 spacers. does that seem right? is that too many or does that mean this chainring size is a no go for me?
also i might also want to try the 42t version. can i just buy the 42t sprocket to work with the current eclipse (face)? and when will it be in stock? thanks
Last edited by LordBinks; 03-10-2018, 05:53 PM.
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Hey, guys. I have a 72v triangle battery for my 3000w Cyclone. It recently died on me before reaching the low voltage cutoff and now it will not fully charge. I have checked it with a different charger and it is the same. I read somewhere that you can sometimes leave it plugged in for a couple days and it will balance the cells and eventually fully charge. No luck with that after leaving it plugged up for a weekend. What is the next step in finding out what is wrong?
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What does it's voltage read with a multi-meter? How old is the pack? What kind of pack is it? How many charge cycles has it roughly been through?
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I recently went thru the same thing with my 48v 1000w. When riding, once I reached a certain wattage while accelerating it would cut out, but if I kept it low and slow it was fine. Mine wouldn't charge over 50v, switched out a bad parallel and now I'm back to over 54v.
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Not sure if should continue commenting on my old post or if I should make a new one, maybe comments don't trigger notifications, so I'll make a new one, tell me if I shouldn't.
I followed HIGHVOLTAGE's advice and disconnected everything, even opened up the motor/controller and reconnected everything in there. No dice. Then all of I sudden it started working again, and then stopped working. So I played around with it a bit and finally noticed a pattern. Seems like it works if you just play with the throttle for a little while. Check out the new video. I really have no idea what would make it behave like this.
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The multimeter showed 76.4v. The pack is a few months shy of a year old. It is a 72v Panasonic ga 10ah 20s3p pack. It has maybe 50-75 charge cycles on it.
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I was using the stock cyclone controller. I believe it can pull 40 amps. I imagine that's where I went wrong. I was using a different battery for the better part of that year. In the beginning I would swap them often, but then I made a battery bag that was difficult to just swap so it sat for a bit at ~90% charge. I opened the pack up to test the cell banks. One bank shows 4.1v. All others are at 3.8v. Could this be causing the BMS to not let it fully charge all banks?
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I'll let someone else chime in here but storing it for long periods at 90% would most likely degrade the cells much quicker than usual.
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That sucks. What about the voltage reading I got off each bank? Could it be a bad spot weld not letting the high group discharge?
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Hello Forum!
I have a Cyclone3000 and it is a good kit with the exception of the mount and the large controller. After 3000 miles of mountain biking and touring, I broke the bolts on the mount and had to rebuild the mounting. I am very impressed by the Luna Mounting Bracket kit for the Cyclone with the BAC 800 controller that fits inside the mount. This makes the Cyclone kit 100% better.
Regarding the BAC, it would be easier to evaluate if there was more product info for the BAC.- Is the BAC 800 a potted device?
- Is there a pin-out for the control cable?
- Can I see a photo of the cable and connectors?
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Hi bmaurey
* yes it is potted
* no the pinout is proprietary. however it is plug and play
* yes there is a photo on the individual listing for the ASI. https://lunacycle.com/asi-bac-800-controller/
* no the controller has no on/off switch. you would want to buy that separately.
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I'm needing a replacement chainwheel guard (clear plastic doesn't last long) for the Cyclone 3000 mid-drive. Would prefer a metal one if available. Link URL would be great.
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I have found an alloy chain wheel guard. The part is - mid 44T BCD 104mm15USD - on this page - http://www.cyclone-tw.com/Parts.html. Paco will discount it if you send him an email first. The Cyclone chain wheel will have to be modified for the guard to fit, but it doesn't sound difficult to do.
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It works if I first fiddle with the throttle, otherwise nothing. The screen just says it supplies around 100w but nothing happens. Ride in rain is affirmative, but water shouldn't affect the motor, should it? I could try with another throttle, but I don't think that's the problem. Especially since the PAS doesn't work without it. Maybe I should just open a warranty/support ticket?
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My cyclone 3K stopped working out in hte woods the other day. Not sure what the issue is. All the wiring seems in-tact and my cycle analyist is telling me there is power going to the motor, and the throttle is functional. When you engage the throttle you can hear the motor engage but then does not begin to rotate. Is the controller dead? Are there any tests or indicators on determining if a controller has been fried?
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