Any plans for Wolf Packs on Giant Roam bikes?
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On my first e-bike back in the mid 2000's, I installed a brushed front hub motor on a $200 schwinn mountain bike. I don't remember how many watts it was but It was pretty fast. It had a pack on the back with SLA batteries. I could get close to 30 mph if I pedaled all out. I sold that bike several years ago and am ready to do it again. This time I don't want to be so haphazard about it though so I'm trying to figure out some good makes/models of mtn bikes to put a 1000 watt motor and lithium ion batteries on. Or at least what specs to look for or how to find a good bike. Any insight is much appreciated.
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My suggestion is to check out the forums on endless-sphere.com. A fantastic resouce for ebikes with thousands of members that can answer your questions quickly. This is more of a tech forum for questions directly related to Luna products (the best IMHO!).
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Check out the ebikes wiki to go over the basics of picking out a frame. There's also a frame section covering some good FS frames and linking to the compatible build lists here.
Generally you get what you pay for with a bike. Nice components like hydraulic brakes, air suspension and high end drivetrain, all that costs more. With the exception being if you find something good on Craigslist, which can be checked by googling the name.
If you want a specific recommendation on brands Giant makes good frames.
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So I want to extend my range by buying a Wolf pack to go with my Carbon Shark, and the wolf pack will fit in the triangle of a full suspension bike I have while the carbon Shark will not. Which means that I can kill two birds with one battery pack. This will mean that I need to attach a steel plate to the bottom of the carbon shark and attach a XT90 and an XT60 pigtails to the contact points . Any input on doing this will be appreciated. I want a solution that is neat and reliable. I have access to a water jet CNC so a plate with lightening hole would be easy to make.I see some type of glue with heavy duty zip ties to connect the plate to the bottom of the case, don't think I can get the case apart to put bolts through the bottom. Should the pigtails be soldered to the sharks contact points.Maybe other are thinking of ways to use the magnetic connection system.
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I wish to use the magnet connection system for both packs. This would allow me to carry the spare pack in a backpack and easily swap packs on the trail.The reason for choosing a different pack is that I want one that will fit in the triangle of my full suspension bike. Hope this clears it up a bit.
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Okay. But if you solder to the discharge terminals on the carbon shark you won't be able to plug it into the cradle. If you were going that route you might as well just keep the shark attached to the cradle while in your backpack, and just extend the wiring from the cradle.
Alternately open up the pack and run parallel wiring off of the discharge wiring before it reaches the discharge contacts on the case. Drill hole through the case itself (with batteries removed first of course) and run the wiring through there, and put the xt90 on it. Not sure why you said you wanted both xt90 AND xt60. There's an extra charge port on the carbon shark hidden on the underside, you don't need need cradle for this if you just need to charge it.
To get the case apart you need a spudger, a pry tool set. There's release tabs all along the sides.
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Hello! I am interested in the luna lander fork. Is it serviceable? I read its not. Will it ever be? (Manuals, parts, service schedule etc)
thanks.
Geo.
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Yes it is serviceable much like any other fork. It can be disassembled and put back together by anyone who's got some experience doing so, like a bike shop.
If something like a o-ring needs replaced anyone with calipers and an internet connection can get a replacement by measuring it and looking up a seller for that size. The thing about budget hardware is the manufacturer tends to stick to proven designs to keep costs low by using common components. I would not be surprised if you could use a seal kit sold for one of the high end name brands.
While I agree it would be nice if we had more documents on disassembly and a purpose built seal kit, (and that is indeed something we intend on doing in the future) that does not mean it is not serviceable.
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Will Luna Cycle 17"x10" triangle battery bag work/fit in frames below?
I am considering building one of the frames below into a E-bike using one of the large 72V 17.5A-Hr or 52V 24 A-Hr luna cycles triangle battery packs. I made cardboard cutouts of the battery packs and they fit inside the frames but, I am not sure if the Luna Cycle 17"x10" triangle battery bag will work in frames holding the 72V or 52V Luna battery packs and was wondering if anyone could offer any advice?
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My advice: As far as the bag, its shaped in a right triangle so you could do the same with a cut-out. I used to have a bag like these on my 17" MTB and it fit with a little squishing, not much though. It fits best on a 19" frame. The top pic, no problem. The middle might be tight but it should fit. The bottom pic? unlikely without squishing but perhaps. If the battery cut-out fits, it shouldnt be a problem since the bag is pliable. Just remember to leave enough room for some padding between the frame and battery.Last edited by Kinni; 03-19-2018, 12:48 PM.
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a couple questions Re: Luna BBSHD kit with c961
1)In default settings on display, Do I get full power at PAS 5 or do I have to program for 9 levels of PAS?
2)When holding down power and +, I get a screen that has P1 - P7.1 to P7.A with er 22 at the bottom. Whats this?
3) Any resources for a handlebar mounted volt meter? I dont really need all the options that comes with a Battman, CA or watt meter. Just something that shows volts in battery only.
Thanx.
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1) 5 should still give you full power. But 9 levels will spread it out the overall power more.
2) I don't think holding down either of those at the same time is supposed to have any effect on anything. Does it only happen when that happens? If so, probably just ignore it.
3) I don't have any available at this time but maybe others can chime in. I'm curious myself.
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Easiest would be to just use a DPC18 which reads voltage all the way up to ~58 unlike previous models. I think the 750c does as well.
If you mean aftermarket components only one that comes to mind is the wattmeter if you want simplicity. Or if you have a softpack with a plug-in voltmeter you could extend it.
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I was thinking that maybe the P1 thru P7 thing was different programming setups or something. Was just wondering what it was as its not covered anywhere I can find. It just came up when I was trying to reset the odo or something. Im still new to this setup so i had forgotten how to do that and was just trying different combinations of buttons.
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Hi - I was looking to order a Bafang Programming Cable, but I can't find it on the Luna site right now. Am I not looking in the right place? Are you just out of stock? If so, any idea when it will be available again? Thanks!
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Error Codes 07H (High Voltage Protection) and 30H (Communication error) on DPC14 BBSHD (no response from motor).
BBSHD SN: 1601145250
Low Miles (300)
I have 2 nearly identical bikes so I am able to narrow the problem down to the BBSHD assembly. Battery and Display are fine. Just getting started trying to figure this out and didn't see any posts related to my error codes. The code appears on start-up and it's mostly 07. Occasionally it's 30H. The bike was fine when it was last ridden ~2 days ago. Firing it up today revealed these error codes. Cables and connectors look fine.
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BBSHD works great with new controller, but..... The new controller (A-type) has much shorter phase wires before terminating at the Anderson connectors. Right now it doesn't appear possible to mount the controller without lengthening the wires a bit. Maybe there's some wire slack I can get from the motor side. Any tips are most welcome.
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I crimped on about a 3" extension to the yellow phase wire coming from the motor, to accommodate the super-short phase wires coming from the new controller. This allowed all the Anderson connectors to lay flat in the cramped space. Bike is back together and running great.
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I just finished my BBS02 installation and am quite pleased with the results. As I was doing the installation, I read somewhere in the Luna info that the motor likes to spin rapidly. Does that imply, on a hill, to be in a lower gear is preferable?? Or in general, to choose a lower gear when it seems appropriate??
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Yes, that's exactly what you need to do. You'll learn as you go and you'll get used to learning how to find that "sweet spot" between speed and torque efficiency.
Generally for most bikes, all you need is like 3-4 gears. 1 for steep hills, 3-4 for light hills, and 6-7th for casual cruising on a flat
Also depends on your chainring size too. I run with a 30T for those really steep hills.
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I currently have a front hub motored cargo ebike, with a Dillinger 36V 10Ah Lithium Ion Frame Battery. The battery is about at the end of its useful lifespan. I am looking to purchase a replacement battery for this same bike /front hub set up, with the absolute best possible range. What do you recommend?
Thanks,
scottLast edited by Bruinboy; 03-21-2018, 02:11 PM.
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Higher voltage = higher top speed. As for the controller. I cannot answer that question for you unfortunately. Try contacting the original seller. Generally speaking I wouldn't change the controller unless you have some experience with re-wiring and familiarity with E-bike troubleshooting already. Sticking with 36v and the same controller would be the best and most reliable option.
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The 36v 2 amp Plastic Charger for $25. It should be already listed with the battery as an add-on.
Either that or the 300W Advanced Version + Adaptor:
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i am not authorized to view. I am signed in and this intermittently happens. https://electricbike.com/forum/node/60081
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Hi
I am thinking about buying the Ruckus bike and possibly later fitting a kit to it (cost driven) Can you tell me what size is the bottom bracket to clear the 4.25 tires? I know that a mid drive motor is better, but would it be possible to fit a hub motor instead? Is the frame symmetrical along the chain and seat stays or offset?
Thanks all
Jay
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I mean I ordered a new 120mm shell from Coast coz I cut into the weld on the one that came with the frame. The bb shell bolts on the frame with 4 M8s. It’s mounting flanges are welded to the tube that holds the BBSHD.Last edited by indyengr; 10-24-2018, 03:24 PM.
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The tool I use for facing bottom brackets is the Park Tool BTS-1 https://www.parktool.com/product/bot...cing-set-bts-1
This tool makes a perfectly flat facing and you can trim as much as you want. It also chases threads. 4130 chromoly steel cuts like butter with these dies.Last edited by commuter ebikes; 10-24-2018, 06:43 PM.
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What I ended up doing (rather than wait for 120mm BBSHD to come in stock) was taking a bottom bracket I ordered from Coast to a local machine shop. I paid $50 for them to take down the width of the bottom bracket to 100mm, but removing all the material from one side. They made it flat and square, and my 100MM BBSHD fits perfectly.
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I'm completing my latest Luna BBS02 conversion and would like to know if it's feasible to retain the display in my top tube bag and extend the PAS "button unit" (+ - and on/off) and maybe the throttle by splicing wires so they'll reach the handlebars. I think the throttle has three wires so sounds fairly simple. How about the PAS buttons?
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