When I got my Cyclone Kit was I suppose to get this circled part in the picture when it was shipped to me? It looks like on the store page and everywhere you look it is there. I never received one nor know the name of it. My bike shop told me the reason my chain constantly coming off because I never got this part and will continue to come off until I get one. I don't even know what it's called to try to look one up. Any help would appreciated, I sent a Support Ticket but looks like I'm not getting any replies back on it so why I'm asking here.
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Hi Luna,
I'm having PAS troubles installing my Double torque system. First, I should say that I have taken your advice and read through the Double Torque forum threads, and run the self-test several times.
- the battery is charged up to 53.4V
- there are no error codes on the display
- motor works fine using throttle
All but one of the times I've run the self-test it reported everything OK except the PAS. Once it came back NG on both the PAS and the Hall sensor, but that hasn't been the case after that one test. I admit to some confusion over the sensor unit, that it may have gotten swapped for something from another vendor, but the photos in your product listing don't actually show a PAS and I don't have any way of knowing if this is the right one. The magnet ring in my photo is one I had previously modified from another system I had on this bike(I don't have any memory of there being one in the box with the kit).
Do you sell the PAS for this separately? I couldn't find a listing.
Also, I'm still wondering what the three-wire JST connector is for.
?
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VTBikeTim the listing photos do show the PAS sensor and it is definitely not that one. The jst is not used like I said before.
If you need to buy a sensor after the fact please email support, but it should have been included.
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I tried to see if this question had been answered, but no success. Do the Lekkie Buzz Bars eliminate the Bafang BBS02 symmetry problem?
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I'm considering buying a BBSHD setup to retrofit my recumbent trike. However, I need to know if the crankset is hard attached to the crank sprocket. Some e-bike mid motor setups have the foot cranks driving some internal gearing while the actual chainring is driven by the motor and maybe some other gearing between the crank and the chainring. My issue is that my trike uses a 20" rear wheel, and given the mostly flat areas I ride on, I already spend almost all of my time in the very highest gear, and often wish I had a higher gear (53/11 is my highest). I don't like putting out a high cadence, I'm most comfortable with a 50-60 cadence and putting more torque into my pedal action. With this highest gear and my preferred cadence, I commonly average 12-14mph on my trike, with bursts of high speed on downhills. So I'm concerned that if I add any sort of e-assist, as my speeds climb a little, so will the cadence and it will get me into an area that I'm uncomfortable with. If the chainring is directly attached to the crank, then any time the motor is working, I have to be pedaling too, and given the available chainrings for the BBSHD, I might even be pedaling a little faster than I do today :-(.
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Thanks for the tip on the 130bcd adapter. With it, I can see at least one 61t chainring I could get. Theoretically, I could get both a 61t up front and the 9t Capreo cassette in the back. That would increase my current 53/11 (4.818) ratio all the way to 61/9 (6.778) which would be a full 40% increase in drive rate. So if I could spin up to 15mph before, this would increase my maximum comfortable spin rate to 21mph on the same 20" wheel. I say all this because upgrading trikes is expensive ;-). I have a Catrike Road right now, and the same quality bike with a 26" rear wheel is $4k+. What may work better though is to get the 61t chainring, and swap out to a more standard 6 or 7 speed cassette with an 11t minimum cog. Then I can go with the beefier 6speed chain instead of the really thin 9 speed chain. That should make the whole thing more reliable, and it will still take my max ratio to 61/11 (5.545), which would still be an increase of 15% in drive rate, so if I could comfortably do 15mph before, it would get me up to 17mph. I think my actual comfort limit is about 18mph (I don't like to spin this fast, but I can get to about here before leg steer issues start to crop up), so I would at least be up to 20mph or a little higher. Of course, the 26" wheel with the exact same chain ratios gains me a 69% increase, so that's what I *really* want to do, we'll just see if the costs can be justified to the wife :-/.
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a would avoid anything smaller than 11t on the rear. Even 11t doesn't hold up well - I'm fortunate I can obtain just the 11t for my cassette and they last about half as long as the rest of the cassette. On an 11t there's likely no more than 5 teeth and link pins in contact!
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Hello, I'm looking at buying a Luna Fusion 500 fat tire but have recently heard on the Reddit e-bike board that there is a weird throttle issue on some of the new BBSHDs - apparently some people are finding a problem with using both the throttle and the pedal assist mode. Have you heard of it, and has this been affecting the Ludacris version? Thanks!
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We tried fixing this/re-flashing and it didn't seem resolve the issue for many folks. Overall the only answer was to send out OG controllers from pre-2017 but we've since run out of stock for those. Go figure ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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I have the issue on my BBSHD. Although it's a bit of a nuisance compared to what I was used to on my old BBSO2, it doesn't really qualify as a problem with the street riding I do. If I'm in PAS 1 and need more juice to climb a hill, I just ramp up the PAS levels. Throttle is mostly for taking a break and riding scooter-style for me anyway, so no biggie.
I imagine it's a bigger issue for trail riders, and possibly why they changed it. The trail police want people pedaling slowly, so eliminating throttle override may be Bafang policing their own systems before all their buyers get kicked out of the dirt.
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Originally posted by gdledford1069 View PostI'm considering buying a BBSHD setup to retrofit my recumbent trike. However, I need to know if the crankset is hard attached to the crank sprocket. Some e-bike mid motor setups have the foot cranks driving some internal gearing while the actual chainring is driven by the motor and maybe some other gearing between the crank and the chainring. My issue is that my trike uses a 20" rear wheel, and given the mostly flat areas I ride on, I already spend almost all of my time in the very highest gear, and often wish I had a higher gear (53/11 is my highest). I don't like putting out a high cadence, I'm most comfortable with a 50-60 cadence and putting more torque into my pedal action. With this highest gear and my preferred cadence, I commonly average 12-14mph on my trike, with bursts of high speed on downhills. So I'm concerned that if I add any sort of e-assist, as my speeds climb a little, so will the cadence and it will get me into an area that I'm uncomfortable with. If the chainring is directly attached to the crank, then any time the motor is working, I have to be pedaling too, and given the available chainrings for the BBSHD, I might even be pedaling a little faster than I do today :-(.
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the crank freewheels, its not hard attached to the sprocket, you can throttle only without pedaling or you can go pedal assist. Also the pedal assist is changeable with the buttons on the handlebar to lower the output of the controller to the motor effectively giving you control over how hard you want to pedal along with the power. If its still too much for you you can get a programming cable and change the output to an even lower amount.
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Luna and other companies have adapters that will allow you to put on whatever size 130 BCD chainring you want. You can order it with the kit for $40. You could change to a 60 tooth if you want. The thing you have to be careful of is not overloading the motor at low rpm. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bafang-130B...gAAOSwIFtaKORt Just a word of experience, I had the BBS02 on a 450 pound tandem trike for 1000's of miles. The BBSHD may be a bit of overkill.Last edited by BK Xray; 04-23-2018, 10:53 PM.
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The BBSHD might be overkill, but the plan is to pull a trailer with two boys in it (ages 2 and 5) and they won't be helping, and we'll have a few hills to do, and even one rough section where I'll have to go off-road for about 100' at a time, and up and over a curb at the end, etc. From our house to the 2 year old's daycare, and then from there to the 5 year old's kindergarten can all be done on a rails-to-trail trailway with the exception of that short off-road excursion and about 3 blocks in a subdivision that I can take the sidewalks on. So it was intended to be able to power through that, and to cover the one *big* hill on the trip that happens to be a painful hill to climb without a trailer. It's the one thing I don't like about recumbents. There's no standing on the pedals for those big hills, but in every other way I love them.
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I understand there are new technology batteries like 20700. I'm looking for a 52v around 20ah battery. Do you carry these?
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There are two new different emerging cells on the market right now. The 20700 cell and the 21700 cell. It's not really new technology. They just made the cells slightly physically bigger for some gains in range and power. The Apex uses the new 21700 cells in it but it is currently the only option with it right now for, well various reasons I can't discuss right now but as these cells become more popular, you'll probably see smaller packs show up in the future. Right now we don't carry anything other than the Apex using these cells right now.Last edited by HIGHVOLTAGE; 04-23-2018, 02:05 PM.
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So Ive got a 14Ah 52v shark battery with about 10 cycles, never once abused. I began charging it today and while monitoring the voltage, the battery stopped charging at 54.8v. I checked the charger output (before unplugging it and the charger was showing the same voltage (54.8v) I unplugged the charger and let it sit for a bit and plugged it back in again and it was pumping out 58.2v, So I began to charge again and after about a minute the charger shut off again at 55.1v. Whats my problem/solution here?
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It's most definitely the charger, cycled it for an hour unplugged and its only putting out 54.8v now. Unfortunately I didn't get it from LUNA, lesson learned. Dropping the money on a luna one now. :) Expedite 50887! I need to get to work! (Ill toss in a glowing review!)Last edited by Kinni; 04-23-2018, 02:37 PM.
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Hey,
My wife currently watches our son and one friend, but will soon be adding a third toddler.
She currently has a Raleigh Alysa (similar to this: https://www.raleighusa.com/alysa-269442) along with a Burley trailer. She's about 115lbs, and is looking for a good solution for taking the kids (probably 70lbs of toddler + the weight of the trailer) just a couple of miles to the library or park. We have some moderate hills, short steep sections, or long, gentle grades, but no major climbs.
From the searching I have done, I believe the BBS02 mid drive kit with probably the smallest battery option should be plenty to do the job, but just wanted to get a warm fuzzy from you guys about that before purchasing. Any downsides to this option for this use case? From what I've read, the hub motors might lose traction with the trailer.
Thanks for any advice.
Randy
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Can the Cyclone 7500W motor/controller be backdriven?
The motor has a free-running gear on it right now. and if I replace it with a non free-running gear for use on a moped, when I decelerate, the motor will be driven by the rear wheel.
Will the controller be OK with this?
Will it regen into the battery pack?
Will it blow up?
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I'm talking about forcing the motor to spin forward at a high rpm.
I would like to connect the sprocket on the motor to the sprocket on the rear wheel without a freewheel sprocket.
So, when I stop driving the motor, the rear wheel will drive it in the same direction.
The motor will them become a generator. Some Kelly controllers can use this electricity to charge the battery pack.
I don't need to charge the battery pack, I just don't want to blow up the controller.
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My new 52v BBSO2 came with a C961 display and I have run it until the battery is done, however the display still shows full. I beleive it may be calibrated for a lower voltage battery so how can I calibrate it for the battery it came with so the battery display works?
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Hi, there. I'm going to order your 60-TOOTH SUR-RON SPROCKET
Could you please let me know how many links should 420 chain have for this sprocket for Sur-Ron?
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I do not have the ability to count individual links on a chain, sorry. Support does not work in the same city as the rest of the company.
I do know that when the full Moto kit is purchased it includes an entire new chain for proper length, not just adding a few missing links.
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If it were me, I would buy two chains and figure this out upon installation.
I wouldn't expect any tech support to know the chain length, but you can certainly figure this out when you install your sprocket and chain, albeit with a little trial and error.
When I do this, I have a chain breaker, Master Links and Master Link pliers at the ready. I get the correct length on about the third or fourth attempt.
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I'm not sure if this question qualifies for this thread, but it has to do with the rubber shrink wrap I got from Luna, so I'll give it a shot...
I ordered the largest size (because review comments indicated that is the most reliable quality of the sizes).
A standard hair dryer on high seems to do nothing to shrink it. A lighter is too small to shrink that large of a piece consistently. So I tried a heat gun. It worked, but caused me some concern because it is so hot that the material underneath gets quite hot too. Which is right next to the battery cells.
Any tips/tricks to shrink that stuff without risk of damaging the cells inside the pack from the excess heat?
Thanks!
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The heat from the heat gun won't likely cause any problems with the cells. Especially if they're not under load. If you think they're getting that hot, try shrinking them in a cold environment where they can cool quickly after brushing with the heat gun and take breaks between brushes. Go slowly and take your time.
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