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    Hello Luna gang. Friend and I want to get the Luna Fusion and order says “ charger option is not available at this time”. Is it just the chargers that are out? Being long time repeat Luna customers we have 52 V chargers and would be more than happy to receive it later when you get them in but would love to get the bike now. So is there a way to bypass that? Thanks

    Comment


    • HIGHVOLTAGE
      HIGHVOLTAGE commented
      Editing a comment
      Which bike specifically?

    My BBSHD unit lost power riding home yesterday. I have unhooked the brake sensors and gear change sensor with no change. The display comes on. It shows the speed but indicates no power from PAS (1-5) or from the throttle.

    I hooked up the battery to another ebike (with BBSO2) and it functions perfectly.

    I have pulled the controller and get readings of 9.9 kOhms on all three leads when sent to ground. On the power side of the plug, I get varying resistance readings from approximately 9 kOhms to 62 kOhms.

    I don't know which part I need to order, display or BBSHD controller.

    Help?

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      Did you try swapping the display from the other ebike?

      Does your display say (!) on it?

    Originally posted by Mr. Whippy View Post
    My BBSHD unit lost power riding home yesterday. I have unhooked the brake sensors and gear change sensor with no change. The display comes on. It shows the speed but indicates no power from PAS (1-5) or from the throttle.

    I hooked up the battery to another ebike (with BBSO2) and it functions perfectly.

    I have pulled the controller and get readings of 9.9 kOhms on all three leads when sent to ground. On the power side of the plug, I get varying resistance readings from approximately 9 kOhms to 62 kOhms.

    I don't know which part I need to order, display or BBSHD controller.

    Help?
    No. No errors now. I power cycled a few times and on rare occasion, I got what I think was CH03, but no error codes now at all.
    Also: On some power cycles, it would read erratic power readings that didn't seem to fit with what I sensed in the pedals (it would read 1640, then change quickly to 500, then 150 and then 27 for a few seconds before going to zero).

    I haven't swapped displays, since that's more of a hassle, is that the next step? Or do the resistance readings tell me anything?

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      Well you could bypass the display instead if you like.

      https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...bbshd-or-bbs02

      You don't really have to swap the display just put the bikes next to eachother and plug the higo from the good bike into the harness on the other, then hit throttle and see what happens. Maybe with bike on a stand or laying down.

      Course it never hurts to have a spare controller on hand even if that were not the issue.

    • Mr. Whippy
      Mr. Whippy commented
      Editing a comment
      I think I'll try the side by side thing, but I ended up ordering a display and controller. I'll update with what it ends up being.

    Originally posted by Mr. Whippy View Post

    No. No errors now. I power cycled a few times and on rare occasion, I got what I think was CH03, but no error codes now at all.
    Also: On some power cycles, it would read erratic power readings that didn't seem to fit with what I sensed in the pedals (it would read 1640, then change quickly to 500, then 150 and then 27 for a few seconds before going to zero).

    I haven't swapped displays, since that's more of a hassle, is that the next step? Or do the resistance readings tell me anything?
    Also: It's a 750C display

    Comment


      I've just replaced my 1000w Bafang motor mid drive on my pedicab ! The first one (identical) worked awesome for two years, but was starting to overheat. MY NEW MID DRIVE 1000W BBHSD SHUTS OFF AFTER 30 SECONDS ?? the auto shut off is in OFF position . Speed cable from sensor (foto ) is faulty. IT RUNS GREAT FOR 30 SECONDS , BUT SHUTS OFF AND IS STILL GETTING TO HOT ??
      I really dig the product...please help me
      thx D wagner

      Comment


      • HIGHVOLTAGE
        HIGHVOLTAGE commented
        Editing a comment
        If it's a Shark Pack, I'd start by checking the underside connectors on the Shark Pack and adjusting them. Some instructions with pictures here:

        https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...5701#post35701
        Last edited by HIGHVOLTAGE; 06-13-2018, 01:55 PM.

      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        Heat is generated from not riding efficiently. Try pedaling without power. If it's hard on your body it's hard on your motor. Keep it shifted in a gear where motor can spin fast and it will not get hot. Maybe that can even mean using a smaller chainring.

        Don't know what your pic there is, is it an extension? If faulty email us.

        Btw if you have run motor on pedicab for years you really ought to do a full teardown and rebuild. Check out our knowledge base

      Is there any troubleshooting to remove the battery from the holster/connector if you've lost the keys?

      Comment


      • HIGHVOLTAGE
        HIGHVOLTAGE commented
        Editing a comment
        Contact a Locksmith.

      Hey there, how on earth do I get the NYX Carbon Fiber frame kit? Thanks in advance

      Comment


      • MRyan
        MRyan commented
        Editing a comment
        I just found their website and it says its for sale for $1,500,00? I just got so amped up seeing this, hopefully I can still order it. If not why would they keep that website up and running. So only chance is probably a used one eh? Thanks in advance

      • Joe Remi
        Joe Remi commented
        Editing a comment
        This? There's an Add To Cart link so I think you're good to go.

        http://www.nyxbikes.com/products-nyx/nyx-cadre

      • MRyan
        MRyan commented
        Editing a comment
        Joe Remi, yes thats exactly it! I'll give it a shot. Thanks man

      Hi Luna Cycle,

      I am looking for an ebike kit and was hoping for a recommendation based on my needs. First time builder, so I appreciate your patience with newbie questions!

      I live in Seattle and ride about 5-6 miles per day for my daily commute to work. Half of the year I'm consistently in the rain. We have pretty big hills in Seattle that are almost as big as San Francisco. I am looking to keep the bike light since I’m petite (5’4” female) and have trouble lifting heavy bikes when I have to put them on the bus. I don’t mind working my legs and buns - its ok if the bike doesn't do all the work and long as it does about half the work to get me up giant hills. I'm used to a really low end factory ebike from China. I am looking for an upgrade, but my current bar is low low and I probably don’t need the most powerful motor or the longest lasting battery like an intense mountain biker would need. Especially if it’s going to add a lot of weight or add to the price. I’m trying to minimize the spend since I’m on a budget.

      I don’t care much about most bells and whistles like elaborate LCDs or premium tires, but I need great brakes for the wet hills of Seattle - I will probably upgrade to hydraulic. I have little bike knowledge, so unless it was pretty easier to install the kit (like Ikea level of easy) I would probably pay for professional installation. This is the frame that I’m considering. I tried reading the comparison chart in the help section, but it doesn’t explain a lot of my questions about the differences between each of the motors and the components within their kit.

      Overall questions:
      • Which kit would you recommend based on the summary above?
      • What does the smart charger do that the regular charger doesn’t?
      • How much more does the bigger Shark battery weigh? Does it provide any benefit besides lasting longer?
      • What benefit does the hydraulic sensor add? How is it different from the eBrake cutoff?

      Front/Rear hub only:
      • What is the benefit of the Alex rim options?
      • How do I know my sprocket size? What should my sprocket size be if I bought the frame above?
      • What’s the difference between the 750W, the 1000W, and the Smart Pie hub motors? Why is the 750W cheaper than the 1000W? How many watts on the Smart Pie? Doesn’t say anywhere on the product page.

      Thank you a ton from a newbie who is really excited to get into building her own kit!

      - miccurn

      Comment


      • HIGHVOLTAGE
        HIGHVOLTAGE commented
        Editing a comment
        I would just go with a BBSxx Mid-Drive kit. They're popular, heavily documented, heavily troubleshooted and imo I think they're easier to install than a hub motor, which always runs the risk of destroying the harness wire if you don't have the wheel properly secured with a torque arm the first time you go for a test ride.

        https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...ight-bbsxx-kit
        https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...mid-drive-kits
        https://www.reddit.com/r/ebikes/wiki/bbs_faq

        There are three types of chargers. You can see each of the product features for them on their individual pages. It's kind of a lot to go over in a single post. You have to do some reading here otherwise you may run into problems. Generally speaking the 300W Advanced has the most features but is the most expensive. If you're looking for a budget friendly middle ground, the Mini Advanced is the next best solution.

        I also think the bigger Shark has been discontinued. I don;t think I can get you the size differences. It's simply just a different case.

        Hydraulic Disc Brake Sensors are for builds where you want to use your default hydraulic brakes but you still want to have E-brake cut-offs since the default brakes use V-brakes only. They're optional and not a requirement. All pre-built bikes we build have the cut-offs left uninstalled and unplugged. It makes for a cleaner build with less wire clutter and generally speaking the cut-offs are rarely ever used anyways. You can just turn off the motor & unplug the battery as an alternative
        Last edited by HIGHVOLTAGE; 06-14-2018, 04:02 PM.

      • Joe Remi
        Joe Remi commented
        Editing a comment
        I agree with HV's recommendation, but you have two criteria that are going to be difficult to get around with any e-kit: weight and rain. You can ride a BBSHD or BBS02 on a wet street with fenders and get away with it, but regularly riding in the rain is bound to get water in places that will kaput your not-cheap motor and battery. Then there's the problem of a petite person lifting this bike onto bus racks..that's gonna get old fast. Even the lightest builds are quite a bit heavier than the normal bike weight you're used to.

        I'm not saying don't do it, I just want to make sure these issues you addressed in your post are well considered before you spend your money.
        Last edited by Joe Remi; 06-15-2018, 12:02 PM.

      • thebootfitter
        thebootfitter commented
        Editing a comment
        Fellow Seattle-ite here.

        The frame you linked looks like it may weigh around 25 lbs. The BBS02 installation will probably add around 9 lbs. Plus, you'll likely want to add some sort of fenders for riding on rainy streets. You're in the neighborhood of 35 lbs before battery. If you really don't need that much range, you could go with something like Luna's Mighy Mini or this small pack: https://lunacycle.com/52v-panasonic-...ce-long-range/ for only around 4-6 lbs. With that frame, you're still looking at a 40-lb bike without a rack or other accessories. I'd suggest making your current bike weigh around 40 lbs by adding some weights to it somehow and see if you can easily lift it on a bus rack. (I know Alki Bike and Board in West Seattle has a practice rack you can try. Other shops may have some too.)

        If you go with a BBSHD, you add a couple pounds of weight and roughly $150 of cost, but you get a more bulletproof motor that should in theory last longer with the same level of use and abuse. Or you may find that the extra power it offers for hill climbing is worth it.

        The mighty mini battery only holds about 300 Watt hours of power, which at an average consumption of roughly 20 Watt hours per mile (assuming traveling around 18 mph with throttle only, flat ground, no wind, etc.), means you could expect only around 15 miles of range. By pedaling and putting more power into the system, you could probably increase that a fair bit. All other things being equal, a larger capacity battery would likely last longer due to using less capacity and heating up the battery less.

        I've had my BBSHD through one rainy season so far as a daily commuter. I did have a problem with water in the controller/motor case once, but the bike shop who checked it out for me said it was likely due to a gasket that didn't seal correctly. (Evidently, no one sells replacement gaskets? Can anyone confirm or deny?)

        If you need any help with anything or want to discuss options with a local, shoot me a note anytime. Good luck with your project!

      Help with wiring Controller + 3000w Cyclone

      I'm building a Fat Tire (Luna Banana) bike with the [CYCLONE MID DRIVE 3000 WATT PLANETARY EBIKE KIT] , [TRIANGLE 52V PANASONIC GA 18650 28AH PACK], and [60 AMP 36-72V EBIKE BLUETOOTH PROGRAMMABLE CONTROLLER].

      Anyone have a Wiring Guide for these products, Video links, or "Any posts" to help guide me through this? There are a lot of connections coming from the BlueTooth Controller. I have docs on the APPs and how to program the controller and BATT MAN Gauge. However, I don't see anything the walks through wiring.

      Any links/Info would be appreciated. I'm comfortable with electrical but this is high-voltage and I don't want to fry anything given all the cables coming from that controller.

      Thanks in advanced!

      Comment


        Hi I took my Sur Ron for her maiden voyage today and just twice after turning on the key she would not move. I have the pedal kit installed and when I pedaled her she then engaged and the throttle worked. I checked the connections for both the brake lines (which I will soon remove) and the kick stand wiring. Nothing seems out of the ordinary. What could be causing this on an intermittent basis? Thank you.

        Comment


        • Markk
          Markk commented
          Editing a comment
          HAHAHAHAHA!!! Yeah burnouts are so fun! Do you recommend disconnecting the threaded ebrakes from the levers and disconnecting them also from under the ignition cover? Or.....?

        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          I think given how easily we have seen folks accidentally pulling them out it's just a matter of disconnecting from the lever, then preventing that exposed connector from touching anything metal. In any case it's just to test the theory so don't have to be too thorough about it

        • crowm
          crowm commented
          Editing a comment
          Tried the big sprocket lost 7mph in eco and 15 mph in sport some traction but mostly just legal and no zip feels like slo-mo. I am reserving final judgement till I rip up the mountain tonight if the rabbits pass me thats it!

        I have been using a DPC-14 with my BBSHD and would like to upgrade to the DPC-18. Is there a way to change the odometer to match my current mileage so far?

        Comment


        • HIGHVOLTAGE
          HIGHVOLTAGE commented
          Editing a comment
          Nope, unfortunately not.

        I have a 52V 13.5aH sharkpack with GA cells from you guys, I've been using it for about three months and it has somewhere in the neighbourhood of 100 charge cycles on it. I normally charge to 90% and do not push it anywhere near failure on my commutes. All of a sudden it won't charge past a bit over 48V. I'm using the Luna Advanced mini charger and with the setting at 100% I can only get to a bit over 48V. Changing the setting will change how much the pack is charged, but it just won't go any higher. Recommendations?

        Comment


        Do you sell cyclone 3000w kits for recombent trikes with double free wheel

        Comment


        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          We sell this https://lunacycle.com/parts/cyclone-...-and-pedicabs/

          Not all the bolts and such are included in the pic on the listing so it'll take a trip to the hardware store to get it to work, though I would imagine if taking on this sort of project you are already comfortable doing that :)

        I have a new BBSHD from Luna. I installed it yesterday on a bike that had a BBSHD on it, just freshening it up. Motor ran for a few seconds on a stand then stopped. No errors in display. I hit the throttle and I hear a little pulse from the motor but it doesn’t spin. Just noticed this morning that it would run for a few seconds then stop. If I let it sit for a while it will run for a couple of seconds. Today I noticed after it quit error 30H. I’ve changed wiring harness, display and speed sensor and do not have the brake or gear sensors connected. The only thing left I would assume is the controller. I think I need a new motor.

        Comment


        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          Try swapping the controller first then go from there. 30 is a communication error and not normally related to the motor itself, more like the wiring, the harness, or the controller.

        Has anyone installed a BBS02 or BBSHD in one of the new crop of factory built belt-drive bikes? They all seem to describe the bottom brackets as "excentric" and I wonder if that would make them incomputable.

        Comment


        • MIKEinNC
          MIKEinNC commented
          Editing a comment
          Thanks paxtana. I had read it, it's a great article, in fact that's what got me interested in the idea of a belt drive. That owner started with a bare frame though, so it still leaves me with my question regarding the bottom bracket of a factory built belt-drive bike. I'd hate to buy one and then find that the excentric (or eccentric) bottom bracket was unique and incompatible with a BBSxx drive. Hopefully it's just an insert that could be removed. Maybe someone has tried already; I'm sure it's just a matter of time.

        • Joe Remi
          Joe Remi commented
          Editing a comment
          Mike, you would need to research a specific belt bike and determine if the bottom bracket is threaded into a standard shell. I presume most would be.

        • MIKEinNC
          MIKEinNC commented
          Editing a comment
          Thanks Joe, I believe you're right. I researched eccentric bottom bracket, and found that seems to be the case. I should have started there.
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