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  • Pizzabroodje
    commented on 's reply
    It got delivered at the neighbours without giving me a notice. Got it today.

    It does specifically mention being Sensor-Safe, though it does have a strong acidic smell, maybe even more so than with the white sealant.
    Apparently even Permatex makes Sensor-Safe RTV with an Acetoxy base though: https://permatex.com.ua/wp-content/u...-81422-TDS.pdf

    Now I just don't know what's what anymore. Should've just went with the Permatex stuff you sent me I guess, but I think it should still be fine as it is Sensor-Safe?
    Nonetheless we'll find out sooner or later (or best-case never because it'll just continue to work), as I didn't want to wait any longer. As extra precaution, I'll let it dry for 24 hours or more with the controller to the side, with a fan pointed at it at low speed.

    Edit:
    That PDF says this:
    "Note: The curing process
    can cause corrosion to some surfaces, for critical applications
    use the Ultra Series silicones."

    So yeah, should've went with the Permatex Ultra I guess... Is it that critical of an application though? (Just around the hall connector)
    Last edited by Pizzabroodje; 4 hours ago.

  • paxtana
    commented on 's reply
    Best for that price range is putting a BBSHD kit on a fatbike. ~700 for kit, ~700 for bike, and the remainder for battery and any needed extras.

  • SOLO09
    replied
    Looking into a new E bike for hunting looking for suggestions price range is 1500-2500 also interested in a cart for hauling in and out of the woods

    Leave a comment:


  • AZguy
    commented on 's reply
    Well I couldn't read that page however (no offense meant) the "cart" being called a winkelwagen made me chuckle =]

    If it's "sensor safe" it's almost certainly not the acidic stuff

  • Pizzabroodje
    commented on 's reply
    Thanks! The permatex brand stuff is expensive here, but I found some similar stuff by looking for 'gasket maker', also sensor safe, by a different brand (€5,90 for 85 grams / 3oz): https://www.amazon.nl/gp/aw/d/B0078U...b_b_prod_image

    Just ordered it with a Prime trial, should arrive tomorrow (high chance it will be delayed though).
    I think the Den Braven stuff should be okay as it's non corrosive, but this will be a safer bet.
    Last edited by Pizzabroodje; 3 days ago.

  • AZguy
    commented on 's reply
    FWIW I posted this in a different thread:

    Pretty much any RTV's labeled "sensor-safe" at most hardware and auto parts stores is fine for electronics


    E.g. the locally and very widely available and available in small quantities (I can't even use the 3.35oz in any reasonable amount of time):

    0.5oz - https://www.permatex.com/products/ga...et-maker-5-oz/

    3.35oz - https://www.permatex.com/products/ga...maker-3-35-oz/


    Most silicone RTV's it's always best to let cure fully before completely sealing up since they need to absorb moisture from the air to fully cure

  • Pizzabroodje
    commented on 's reply
    Ordered the RTV with supposed same day delivery, but as expected DHL didn't come through with that, was supposed to come yesterday but now says it'll arrive tomorrow.
    It didn't really find any that were specifically listed as being electronics compatible, but it's a neutral cure silicone sealant, and it did say it's non corrosive to metals:
    https://www.denbraven.com/nl-nl/prod...o-transparant/
    (Transparent was on sale for half the price of white so just got that one.)

    I have a fan pointed at the applied sealant since more than a day now, and will leave the fan running until I get the new sealant, to hopefully make all the remaining acidic fumes go.

  • AZguy
    replied
    1000 cycles is a fair bit, even if only to 50%

    Usually the first thing I notice in older batteries is they start to sag worse and worse, particularly at lower SOC's (voltages)... I see it start on batteries with as little as a couple of hundred cycles and it only gets worse with time... the most cycles I have on any battery (I've got about half a dozen) is around 300 but many of the cycles were discharged down a lot less than 50%... their total capacity reduction is only about 10-15% less than new but the sag makes the useful capacity a lot less, at least for any "spirited" riding... admittedly they'll get me home with a lot less spirit...
    Last edited by AZguy; 3 days ago.

    Leave a comment:


  • TK10K
    replied
    the drop in power is significant I would say 50%, so another thought, when I was changing the motor I pulled out a bit the battery pack for convenience of reconnecting, is it possible that I might have unhooked one part of the pack?

    Leave a comment:


  • TK10K
    replied
    The drop is significant, my daily is about 12 miles mostly flat, rarely I drop more than 2 bars, now I at the end of 12 miles I'm left with 1 or 2 yellow bars, dont know how the readout is calibrated but looks like 200% plus battery usage.

    Leave a comment:


  • paxtana
    commented on 's reply
    It may be worth bearing in mind that as the weather gets colder, it is going to have significantly more voltage sag. This sag will scale with how old/used the battery is.

  • TK10K
    replied
    1000 cycles were 98% above 50%. Battery was still for about 3 weeks.

    Leave a comment:


  • Pizzabroodje
    commented on 's reply
    3 years is a common lifespan for li-ion battery packs.

    Are the 1000 cycles full cycles, or 1000 times from ~50% to 100%?

    And did the battery lay still for a while before getting the replacement motor? This is also not good for batteries, especially when at a high or low charge.

  • TK10K
    replied
    Luna Stealth battery life. I bike a lot, so far I made about 4,000 miles in last 3 years. Ended up replacing motor because some parts got worn out and it was not feasible to replace them piece by piece. After replacement my battery is not performing anymore, after about easy flat road ride for a mile or so I loose 2 top bars, then after 4-6 miles I am down to yellow. So the question is whether the battery is simply dying, 4000 miles and about 1000 recharging cycles (usually recharging @ half or bit more capacity).

    Leave a comment:


  • Pizzabroodje
    commented on 's reply
    Ok thanks, that's what I thought.

    I do think it indeed contains acidic acid. I see the site actually mentions it doesn't, but for the transparent version it says it does, and the same stuff sold under a different name (same manufacturer and packaging, just different printings and brand name) also says it contains acid. On the back there's also a warning for using it on surfaces that are sensitive to acidic acid.

    It's too much of a hassle for me to remove it again, especially off of the controller. And I'm also not all too worried about it doing damage (slightly worried about the capacitor but I made sure to apply a thin as possible coating there, and tried not to touch any metal part of it). I'll let it dry for another day just to be sure it's completely dry before putting it all back together. It's (almost) fully cured now anyways, so I guess most damage would already have been done now. We have a quite damp environment here in the Netherlands, so the air isn't too dry. It's just 6°C, else I'd put it in the shed where I thinks it's a bit more humid than in the house, but I don't think the air in our house is that dry. Or do you think it would set better in the shed even though it's colder?

    Removing it off of the phase wires would probably be a bit easier than removing it off of the controller, but I'd most likely take the LET along with it, causing me to have to do it all over again: first clean it all off well, taking the stator off once again, then apply LET, let that dry, and then apply the new silicone.
    Here it only really touches the housing, grommets, and LET anyways, so I think I'll just leave it like this. I didn't apply it all that thin here, but I think also not way too thick. I do hope that it didn't seep through to the stator, but I don't think it would have because I used new grommets, and made sure they were all tight in there. No way to check without removing it all though.

    I'll get some acid free stuff to use for the hall wire / connector at least, because here it could come in direct contact with the connection or the PCB that's underneath. I think that I'll also let the silicone around the hall wire set with the controller off to the side, and then screw the controller onto the housing after a day or two, giving it even more time for any acid to evaporate.

    It was hard to tell how far exactly the potting was cracked, but it did look like it was cracked all the way at some parts. I think it must've been done to reach certain parts of it, probably to check and/or repair. The potting on top of the capacitor looked to have been put back on with a dot of silicone, and the parts left on the sides of it were really loose and broke even further when applying the LET. So for me it seems likely that here it also went all the way to the PCB.
    Last edited by Pizzabroodje; 5 days ago.
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